Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Evening all, I was wondering what everyones experience is with Warranty jobs? The scenario is I've booked my 2012 GT86 in at Toyota as I've got a few issues: Fogging up/condensation in the rear lights Key light flashing orange with bleep every now and then when I get out the car. Random starting issues (takes a while to start sometimes, requires some attention from the throttle to get going) I cant put the passenger window down with the switch on the drivers door. When I open the Drivers door, the window pops down as normal. When I shut it, it doesn't pop back up! Meaning I have to go around the passenger side before I switch the ignition off to lean over and fully close the window! Now I bought the car used with 2 years warranty still remaining on it back in September. Does anyone think they will try and wiggle out of the above issues? I've heard of other manufactures long warranties not being worth the paper they're written on. It's a bit annoying that I've bought a new-ish car with warranty to try and dodge niggly problems and it's exactly what I've got! It's also annoying that they cant fit me in until the 25th to look at it, but if they're busy I cant really do much about it. Any other advice about working with Toyota to get these issues resolved is appreciated. I realise this is a bit of a "Non-Problem" but knowing my luck, it can only get worse ! haha. Cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Lights common fault so they will sort key fob looks like battery Windows there is a reset most likely you've opened them when frozen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Pps have you got the button down to lock passenger window? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steeps 294 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Both the windows are not broken, it's a safety feature if the motors detect it's frozen/frozen in the past then they need re-setting to avoid damaging the motors. There is a method to reset it but I can't remember it off hand but I've had to do it myself last winter. Random starting issues: could be the car battery, the Panasonic 48ah is a bit pants and some garages will replace with a 60ah one. Rear lights could be that they are screwed in too tight/loose affecting the seal, but some have been replaced under warranty. Key issue: try replacing the keyfob battery, it's supposed to be done at service but it might have been missed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 30 minutes ago, nikndel said: Pps have you got the button down to lock passenger window? I thought that straight away but unfortunately not! 28 minutes ago, Steeps said: Both the windows are not broken, it's a safety feature if the motors detect it's frozen/frozen in the past then they need re-setting to avoid damaging the motors. There is a method to reset it but I can't remember it off hand but I've had to do it myself last winter. Random starting issues: could be the car battery, the Panasonic 48ah is a bit pants and some garages will replace with a 60ah one. Rear lights could be that they are screwed in too tight/loose affecting the seal, but some have been replaced under warranty. Key issue: try replacing the keyfob battery, it's supposed to be done at service but it might have been missed. I see, well we did have a frost this morning and it started today... this could be the root cause! The battery was replaced for an "upgraded" one before I bought it by Toyota. Thanks for the other advice I'll see what Toyota can do for me... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 With regards to resetting the windows you need to do the following - Wind down the problem window and hold the button down once wound down for a few seconds (it may be 10 seconds) - Wind it back up and hold it again for a few seconds. You would know if you have the issue as the window buttons flash. They will stop flashing once the problem is fixed... I think the above is correct, but I haven't had to do it for a year.. I think the only warranty issue you have here is the rear lights. The fob just needs a battery by the sounds of it (I guess we can't really expect them to replace batteries under warranty, unless we are talking car ones, which they should replace no problem) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Battery is a 1632 3 volt a easy process to change may be worthwhile putting some lube on your window rubbers also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate the help! I probably should've googled the key thing... but the manual just said to take it to a dealer! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Last time I let a dealer change a battery in a fob they charged me £8 to do it easy money eh! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 ^^ As nick said, that's precisely why it's in the book. Which reminds me, mine must be close to dying soon as it's past 3 years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Rear light condensation is a warranty job, don't worry about that. It's due to the seals failing. Windows they will flash if they get stuck. Do what Rob said, hold down for ten seconds. When they're not flashing it's sorted. The keyfob battery is changed as a matter of course every 40K miles. Easy to get that sorted. The warranty is good, it's a Toyota warranty, you should have no problem geting these things sorted. Unless it's turning over particularly slowly and the battery is obviously dying it's unlikely to be the battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Duff 79 Report post Posted January 13, 2016 Hi Jason, this is the best stuff to use on all the rubber door seals and where the glass of the window touches as it really reduces the chances of the rubber freezing to the glass: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Einszett-Gummi-Pflege-Car-Care-Rubber-Stick-Door-Restorer-100ml-/361352016768?hash=item5422423380:g:nl4AAOSwr81UNWVC The same e-bay seller also has 2 for £11.50 inc postage on a different listing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan7954 35 Report post Posted January 14, 2016 When I turn off the igntion with the door open I get an orange key symbol and a beep.. also if you open very soon after the ignitiin is off it happens.. which is normal from what ive read. . Are you sure its not the same thing, Rather than the fob battery? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 14, 2016 10 hours ago, Lauren said: Rear light condensation is a warranty job, don't worry about that. It's due to the seals failing. Windows they will flash if they get stuck. Do what Rob said, hold down for ten seconds. When they're not flashing it's sorted. The keyfob battery is changed as a matter of course every 40K miles. Easy to get that sorted. The warranty is good, it's a Toyota warranty, you should have no problem geting these things sorted. Unless it's turning over particularly slowly and the battery is obviously dying it's unlikely to be the battery. Awsome, thanks for the info 8 hours ago, Captain Duff said: Hi Jason, this is the best stuff to use on all the rubber door seals and where the glass of the window touches as it really reduces the chances of the rubber freezing to the glass: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Einszett-Gummi-Pflege-Car-Care-Rubber-Stick-Door-Restorer-100ml-/361352016768?hash=item5422423380:g:nl4AAOSwr81UNWVC The same e-bay seller also has 2 for £11.50 inc postage on a different listing. I'll have to get some of that then! 5 hours ago, Dan7954 said: When I turn off the igntion with the door open I get an orange key symbol and a beep.. also if you open very soon after the ignitiin is off it happens.. which is normal from what ive read. . Are you sure its not the same thing, Rather than the fob battery? I usually sit in the car for a few seconds after switching off (usually replying to a text or something) so I don't think its that, but I'll bare it in mind thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted January 14, 2016 Can't fault what everyone else has said thus far, hope you get them all sorted. I've on the very rare occasion have had a stuttery start and even more so if you stall or mess up the start up process (lift off the clutch too soon a couple of times) but it's never truly failed to start in over 3 years, and I'm still on the old car battery. If the beep you get is just the one or two then it's the battery if it's a continous beep until you close the door again, it's because there's a rubber spring switch on the door pillar near your seat belt that isn't pressed in while you turn the car off, no idea why it should beep but it does if the door is open while you turn the car off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 25, 2016 So the car was at the dealer today having stuff done. I told them the rear lights were fogging up, they replaced OSR Light seal... as they say it was the only one fogging up. As for the Oil leak, the report says "Confirm slight oil weep from baffle plate, cleaned off and used developer spray. Customer to return in 1000 miles to re-check" I decided, out of interest, to check my DashCam footage. Sure enough the mechanics slagging me off a few times (Meh, he didn't know there was a camera rolling... I wont hold it against him). Goes under the bonnet to check for leak, finds leak. Bonnet stays up and he doesn't go back to that area again the whole time its in there.... odd. Also when he's talking about the lights fogging "You try and find a GT86 without fogged rear lights!!" Basically, the whole video shows him barely looking at the car. So I assume he spent the time round the back doing the light. Considering he looked at it first thing in the morning for an hour or two, then bought it back in again at about 3pm I assume there was some sort of bonding process he was waiting for on the rear light... I dunno! I suppose I'm just guessing here... just a tad annoying as the car still stinks of burning oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted January 25, 2016 That deserves an email to Toyota customer services surely, absolutely terrible service! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted January 25, 2016 I almost want compensation for having to drive a Yaris... god it was awful. I'll check the rear light etc. in the day and see how it is. I'll also give them a chance with this 1,000 mile thing and bring it back. I don't mind the slagging me off "Nowt wrong with it" chat from a grumpy mechanic who didn't know he was being filmed. We've all been like that on a Monday.... as long as the cars fixed I'm happy. Would've liked them to clean it actually, but thats just laziness on my part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted January 27, 2016 That's a bit shit, not impressed with that mate, being slagged off because the mechanic hasn't got a clue deserves mentioning not just because of the attitude but the lack of knowledge and trust. Hope you get it all sorted though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted January 27, 2016 On a similar note when this car was introduced to the UK I was curious how many techs went on courses to familiarise themselves with it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted March 11, 2016 Hi all, thought I'd update this. The car went back to Toyota on Thursday morning, once again I had a Yaris! Dammit. Anyway, the jobs listed were: - Condensation/fogging of both rear lights - Oil leak onto manifold. The car has had the baffle plate removed, and the gasket redone. So hopefully that'll sort the issue. HOWEVER, as for the rear lights. The service manager was dealing with me, and he said "We couldn't find any condensation or fog in the rear lights what-so-ever. We aren't saying it's not happening, we just need proof before we can do them" I suggested photos of videos to which he replied "or you bring it down to us when they fog up". Which is a bit of a waste of my fuel, considering it took two trips already to get 1 problem fixed! So no condensation? Drove the 20 minutes home and took these pics on my driveway... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nikndel 509 Report post Posted March 11, 2016 You're lucky my lot let me get a bus home as I walked in the door they agreed my lights needed changing😠 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
long-gone 152 Report post Posted March 11, 2016 IME Toyota dealers are pretty hit and miss. The first two I used were hopeless, platinum bath is excellent. I've had coilpack replaced under warranty and booked in to have seals on rear lights replaced due to condensation. No complaints here, but the dealer I bought the fecker from were lying, arrogant tosspots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jason_E 3 Report post Posted March 11, 2016 I'm using the Oxford one at the moment, all the others are quite a bit further away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted March 11, 2016 You can fix the lights yourself, don't waste your time with the dealership. Take them out, put them by a radiator to dry out then put them back in. Just don't overtighten them because that's what causes the issue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites