Geo setup help

[Varelco 211]

Hi all,

I'm having the geo set up on my 86 next week and need a bit of help with what to go for. The car has been lowered 25mm and i've fitted adjustable rear camber arms and will be fitting camber bolts up front so I can have everything dialled in. I was thinking of having the rear set up back to the stock settings and dialling in some camber up front (1.2-1.5deg) for a bit more turn in grip, I've noticed the corners of the tyre have scrubbed a bit so my guess is I'm rolling onto the outside of the tyre when pushing it.

I'd like to keep the handling neutral with more tendency to oversteer rather than under but i don't want to make it a handful if that makes sense, need to keep it predictable. Recommendations?

 

(Car doesn't get used on track, is on Tein -25mm springs and stock dampers, stock primacys with stock wheels on spacers.)

 

[benmmellor 44]

Wooud find this information useful as well - got a set of Eibachs and Eibach camber bolts ready to go on

[Deacon 1357]

I run - 2.5 degrees front,  - 2 degrees rear for the camber and 0 toe front and just a touch of toe in at the back. I've run these settings for just over a year on track and street and found them to be good. 

[Lauren 2259]

If it's any help, I run 2 degrees front, 1.75 rear. You'll want negative camber on the rears in any event, as it will all help. I run parallel toe front with less toe in on the rear (though annoyingly I don't have the exact spec for the rear). With these settings tyre wear will still be even across the tread. I've done 60k miles on these settings, including three Euro trips as well as competing in the TSS for three years. It works well for everything. 

[Church 209]

Amount of negative camber imho should depend on how much track driving vs daily driving is done and how sticky tires are used. The more camber you have, the more grip you'll have when pushing faster in corners. Of course unless one is unlegally aggressive driver, rarely such pushing will be done on public roads :). That extra grip can be gained both front and rear. From what i've seen, in most cases people for these cars deal 0.5deg less negative camber for good balance.

For mostly daily driven car with few track days on normal tires my preference would be: -2.0 to -2.5 camber front with zero toe and -1.5 to -2.0 with slight 0.1 toe in. With such setup i was able to get out rear when wanted yet better controllable, and front understeered less. While such front camber can be gained for cheap with just camberbolts (even more so, that lowering car also adds negative camber), one needs LCA for that in rear, but you already have them.

People dial in even more camber if going to track more often and use stickier tires. On pure drift setups i've seen mentioned even more so camber used at front (with higher difference front-rear too). But that doesn't sound like what you want with mostly daily driving.