kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 18, 2018 Hey, I've got some Amazon vouchers saved from Christmas and wanted to finally go and buy a machine polisher. Since I'm limited to Amazon on this buy, could you confirm this is the real DAS 6 Pro?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Action-Orbital-Polisher-Backing-Brushes/dp/7392451979/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518989236&sr=8-1&keywords=das6+pro As to accessories, what pads should I buy for it? That I'm not limited to Amazon, so links would be appreciated. Same about compounds and sealant / wax, I think I've got some Meguiars 105 and 205 as well as some Carnuba wax, but they've been laying in a garage for a couple of months unused, so not sure they're still good. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 19, 2018 Looks legitimate matey, I like chemical guys hex logic pads, orange green and black. You'll find with the gt86 soft paint that a finishing Polish with the green pad will get all the swirls out but you will need more aggression for the random deep scratches. I use menzerna but lots of people use meguires. If they are still liquid I'm sure they are fine. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
benmmellor 44 Report post Posted February 20, 2018 This is my 'supplier' - The Detailing Shack http://stores.ebay.co.uk/r1detailingltd Website is being updated but they have a good ebay shop. Take a look at their 'package deals'. I've got a DAS-6 with some flexipads for a good price from them. e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodo-Juice-Buff-Daddy-DAS-6-Orbital-Machine-Polisher-Buffer-Hexlogic-Heads-/122266788565 DAS6 is good for the home detailer as it's pretty hard to go wrong with it when getting into using a machine polisher. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted February 20, 2018 I use Menzerna/3M Compounds to good effect but haven't used a great deal else. I'd say 3M is the better of the two. DAS-6 Pro is a good starter polisher. I use mine for sanding duties these days and use a Rupes LHR15ES MkII for polishing. Pad wise It doesn't really matter, i'd say pick a brand and just stick to their system as you will get used to them. Similarly with the polishes/compounds you will get used to their cutting ability. Supposedly you're only meant to use Rupes pads/polishes with the rupes polisher otherwise it jumps, can't say i've seen this tbh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 On 19/02/2018 at 6:38 AM, sam534 said: Looks legitimate matey, I like chemical guys hex logic pads, orange green and black. You'll find with the gt86 soft paint that a finishing Polish with the green pad will get all the swirls out but you will need more aggression for the random deep scratches. I use menzerna but lots of people use meguires. If they are still liquid I'm sure they are fine. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk What's the difference between different coloured pads? And how many will I be using? Are there any other accessories that are a must have when you use a polisher? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 What's the difference between different coloured pads? And how many will I be using? Are there any other accessories that are a must have when you use a polisher? So I have some experience with a DA but by no means a pro. I'm guessing you know the basics. A 3" backing plate is almost essential along with equivalent pads to polish things like the spoiler, details on the front bumper, wing mirrors etc. So the pads differ in firmness (is that a word?) the firmer the pad the harsher the cut as it will press the abrasive into the paint harder (if you maintain the same arm pressure) black is a finishing pad, good for glazes and fine polishes, green is a moderate polish pad good for most polishing duties on the 86 and orange is a cutting/heavy polish pad I haven't had to you this yet still sealed in the package but I've never gone for 100% perfection free. I haven't tried to do a whole car in one as it is longer than I have patience to work on a cars paintwork but one of each pad in both sizes is good for doing 1-3 panels, don't see why you can't do the whole car... But you need to clean the polish out the pad after each panel. A panel wipe is pretty much essential to remove any fillers post polishing to inspect your work along with a high powered led torch. Make sure you decontaminate fully before polishing. Oh and a few decent Microfibre to remove polish residue and buff after panel wipe. Anything else fire away!! Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/chemical-guys/chemical-guys-hex-logic-5-5-pads?page=2 https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/chemical-guys/chemical-guys-hex-logic-4-spot-pads?page=2 https://www.shopnshine.co.uk/75mm-dual-action-backing-plate?search=Back%20plate Use code DW75 for shop n shine Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Thanks @sam534 that's what I needed! Is that 75mm backing plate = 3"? And will these smaller pads fit with it and DAS6 Pro? One last question, what about applying wax? You might say you're not a pro, but that info was very helpful, now about me and basics, let's just say that at least I understand what all these things are, but not how to use them...yet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Yes, I use a das6 pro with those pads and backing plate.Start with a finishing Polish and that green pad and see how you go! As long as you don't smack the machine/plate into the panel you'll be fine.Also Pro tips keep the chord looped over your shoulder so it doesn't bash the car plus get yourself some tape to put on the trim/badges so you don't damage them with the polish and machine. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Oh applying wax.... Get some small foam applicators and apply using small circles, real thin coats, like as thin as you can, you can't get too thin, leave it for the time on the wax instructions and buff off using a good Microfibre.I normally do two panels. Once I've finished panel 2 panel 1 is normally good to buff and then once panel one is buffed panel 2 is ready to buff. Rinse and repeat.What wax are you using? Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Where are you based? Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 I've got some Carnauba wax left over from when I started doing some basic things. But I could upgrade to something better now if you can recommend anything. Small foam applicators - do you mean apply by hand? I'm based in East Midlands, Market Harborough not far from Leicester. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Yes, i apply paste waxes by hand I use cheap ones 5 for a pound. OK, well if you fancy getting some guidance and going over a panel I'm only in Derby. Is that meguires paste wax? Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Is a DA not suited for that or just an overkill? Sure, if you don't mind. Let me get my orders in and I could pop in. Although I think you'd have to show me on yours, unless we did all the prep work to remove the road muck, when I come over... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Is a DA not suited for that or just an overkill? Sure, if you don't mind. Let me get my orders in and I could pop in. Although I think you'd have to show me on yours, unless we did all the prep work to remove the road muck, when I come over...Yeah, good point. Overkill for paste waxes, you need to use so little and have to keep putting the applicator back into the tub often so you don't overload the applicator.Liquid based products on the DASent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk 1 kacpr reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 I mean it's best for you to get hands on the DA. Not sure I would let you go wild on my car... If you bring it over cleanish and we just deep clean the bonnet. Would look a little funny after but you could learn the DA. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 23, 2018 Thanks, I'll think about it 1 sam534 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 27, 2018 Quick one, here's my shopping basket, how does that look? Need a 4mm backing plate as well, it's out of stock on this website. I've picked liquid wax as well, you don't use hex pads for applying wax, do you? Shouldn't it be one these soft pads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 27, 2018 Quick one, here's my shopping basket, how does that look? Need a 4mm backing plate as well, it's out of stock on this website. I've picked liquid wax as well, you don't use hex pads for applying wax, do you? Shouldn't it be one these soft pads? Looks about right, I've never used valet pro clay bar, I use bilthamber.Is this the polish you intend to use or are you using it as a wax? It looks like a "cleanser polish" with wax built in, could be a glaze, I don't know the product....I would use a more dedicated last stage protection over that as if your already polishing you won't need the cleaning/glazes of that polish/wax, I mean it'll be fine but there are better products to use. I can't really advice as I've only used paste waxes/sealants by hand. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted February 27, 2018 Sorry, I looked for liquid Waxes and didn't notice this one is a polish as well. Probably need to find something different then. Maybe @rob275 can chime in on that? Question is - liquid wax, and what pad to use when applying it with a DA? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted February 27, 2018 This is the guide. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted February 27, 2018 For applying sealants with a DA you should use a finishing pad always. I tend to apply by hand with an applicator pad though. It's easier to get coverage in hard to get to places you would miss with a 150/160mm pad... You could get smaller pads but then you need to either have a second polisher or keep swapping the backing plate off. It then becomes a bit of a PITA especially considering the majority of sealants/waxes don't need working in they tend to work themselves in (If that makes sense) lol. There's nothing stopping you applying that poorboys product with a DA, though i've not used it. You wont cause any damage, get it and have a play I reckon. 1 sam534 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stutopia 158 Report post Posted February 28, 2018 A lot of people, myself included, initially believe using a machine makes life easier for all the paint jobs. Whilst it definitely allows you to correct paint in much less time (arguably with less aggressive combinations) than you could by hand, once you’ve finished the actual removal of the swirls and scratches and reach the final application of protection (wax/sealant/coating), you’ll actually save time and energy doing it by hand. Your hand is more versatile and accurate than a machine and protection shouldn’t require any force or heat to apply. You also don’t need to expend the effort to control and move the machine when you protect by hand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kacpr 1 Report post Posted May 21, 2018 Finally got to actually doing work with the DA, it's only been 3 months! Now I've got a couple of questions. I've only done the bonnet, which was full of stone chips. The process I've used was: 1. Prep, prewash with IronX, 2 bucket method manual cleaning, drying 2. Decontaminating with clay bar 3. Wiped down with alcohol to remove any remaining grease Then I've split the part in 4 areas, using masking tape. I've noticed a lot of stone chips had paint slightly raised - do you think that rust that got under the paint? I took some 1500 grit sand paper and I've sanded it down, to be level with the rest. Then 1. Used Meguiars 105 cutting compound with Orange chemical guys pads, dabbed the compound around, spread it on setting 1, then switched to setting 5 and done whole area, until the sanding haze was merged with the rest of the paint. 2. Now instead of doing the rest of the process... I did all the other areas of the bonnet, which I'm not sure was an error or not. So I did the step no.1 on remaining parts of the bonnet. 3. Now I've used 205 finishing polish, on Green pads and did all the parts of the bonnet. 4. Finally I've sealed the whole bonnet with wax. Problems I've encountered: -After sanding raised paint, the remaining stone chip hole was too tiny to fill in with touch up kit ! Plus, there were so many of them it would take me more than the weekend (which I already spent most of). I'm not sure what I could have done with them, or how long would I need to leave the paint on, before sanding. The official instructions say 48hrs to dry before polishing... -Previous owner must have been doing something similar to the car, also when I did some attempts by hand, and it all left the stone chips gathering some dried polish. This looks terrible and I wasn't sure how to proceed with that. All in all, the bonnet looks really shiny, most of the holograms / swirls were removed, the only thing that's bothering me are the chip holes that filled with dried polish over the years and that I don't know how to fix them. Can you also help me identify why was the paint rising in the first place? Oh, I've also done the boot, and that looked ace! Run out of time and 105 to do the rest of the car (no I didn't use the whole bottle, only had about 1/3 - 1/4 left from previous work, which lasted me on the bonnet and boot this time ). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sam534 62 Report post Posted May 21, 2018 Got any pictures of the chips? Could of just been an attempt at filling them that hadn't been leveled properly. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
