Clutch pedal adjustment

[George 13]

Was wondering if someone can send me a link or explain how to adjust the clutch peddle. The biting point is right at the top and feels horrid. Iv seen you can get new springs that change the pedal feel but I don't mind the feel of it. It's not to hard or soft, I just want the biting point to be a lot lower as the pedal travel is ridiculous. 

[nikndel 509]

If it's high is that not a sign of a worn clutch?

[George 13]

I wouldn't have though so, the clutch feels strong. Can't get it to slip and it's only done 23k miles. 

[Church 209]

This is hydraulic clutch, whose travel should stay somewhat same no matter what clutch wear, with clutch master cylinder piston taking in extra fluid if needed (of course, if it's not overadjusted to have nozzle from fluid tank always closed).

You can consider this mod of adjusting clutch pedal travel, few caveats though: 1) IIRC it might be harder to do on RHD due placement/clearance of things in driver footwell (though i may mistaken this hardship with clutch assist spring removal mod), 2) be careful to not take out too much dead travel out of pedal, as by same basic checks some slight clutch drag might be missed, but propagate in slightly harder to engage gears (maybe some of them) maybe at some temps (cold vs warmed up), reverse or 1-2 or 5-6 , increased synchros wear and so on .. in general, i'd not adjust by some vague "slightly below brake pedal" but rather to at least 1-2cm of dead travel till bite point, and would add some extra tests if clutch is not dragging and pedal travel is sufficient, eg. try driving in all of the gears, with clutch disengaged but car in 1st and reverse gears try to redline to 7K, see if car tries to roll a bit, ask someone to report if clutch fluid level changes as you press pedal. 3) i also did "own addition" to this mod - taped red tape over threaded clutch pedal rod and put some markers on two opposite sites. It eases to reference when testing - "clutch/gearbox behaved such and such at 1.x, at 0.75x, at 1.5x, at 2.x turns". 4) my smartphone's flash lying on carpet served well to illuminate where i worked on adjusting

[KAS 25]

I’m a year into ownership and I still don’t like the high bite point, but I’m still too paranoid about trying the clutch pedal adjustment.

From what I remember the process is a lot more involved for RHD, and involves removing the pedal assembly. I think there was a post or maybe a video showing how to do it. It’s been a year tho so I could be wrong lol

[Church 209]

But it's also possible that it was for spring removal, not bolting in more or out threaded rod. I'm driving LHD, so am too lazy to google out of specific hardships.

[George 13]

Iv only owned my car for a few weeks so for all I know the biting point is correct and that's just how they are, especially if yours feels the same. I might consider removing the whole pedal assembly and change the spring to see if it makes any improvement, I will probably have better luck adjusting it then. My engine will come out soon as part of the recall so I can have the clutch checked for wear then just incase it is on its way out. 

[KAS 25]

But it's also possible that it was for spring removal, not bolting in more or out threaded rod.

I think you’re right about that!

George, have you read this http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8040

There’s more info on the Aussie forums about clutch adjustments for RHD, but will take some digging to find it.

If you do go ahead with it keep us updated please!

[Adi 40]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54RrACeyjCA

Done this just now, very easy to do. So far the clutch action feels much better.

[Conscript 45]

Make sure you adjust the clutch switch down as well (the little push switch that is pressed in whilst the pedal is up).

When I adjusted my clutch, I found that although the bite point was more comfortable, the car would bog down sometimes when I was lifting the clutch to pull away. It turns out that as well as being the cut off switch for the cruise control and the gear indicator, the switch is also linked to the ECU and retards the engine power whilst the clutch is down. So if you lower the pedal but not the switch, you might find that the engine is retarding power for too long when lifting the clutch.

He does mention it in the video, but I thought it worth highlighting - I initially didn't adjust it because my CC was still cutting off correctly while the switch was in the original position. I didn't realise it affected the engine power too. Car was much better to drive after correcting the switch as well.