MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 17, 2020 I've just spoken to Mark at Abbey and it looks like an installation date in July is on the cards. Excellent! 1 BRZ-123 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted June 17, 2020 23 hours ago, MartinT said: @Deacon thanks for your comments, they really helped me make up my mind. The extra to stretch to the Ace doesn't seem worth it, the Rogue looks like a great design. Many of the Ace models are machine made now whereas all the Rogue models are handmade and Mat is an artist when it comes to welding so I'd suggest the Rogue manifolds are better and so definitely not worth the stretch. I think you'll be very happy and glad I could help 👍 1 MartinT reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James7 14 Report post Posted June 17, 2020 I have a Harrop supercharger on my car but currently running standard exhaust (including manifold). I managed to purchase a used CGR EL manifold and TD super resonated system, so these will be going on, with a remap by Abbey. I'm not sure how the CGR compares to Rogue/Ace but the manifold does look good quality and seems very light. I would probably have gone with Rogue had I not happened upon the CGR manifold. What are the thoughts on engine bay heat build up and ceramic coating? I know that some have had issues with coil packs/wiring harness failure, suspected due to heat. Is the TD style manifold that comes up in front of the engine worse for heat/is it something to worry about? Zircotec sounds to the best quality coating, but at some cost. https://www.cgrautomotive.co.uk/product-page/toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-exhaust-manifold-supercharged Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 17, 2020 I'm going with the Rogue EL as-is because the problem is specifically the heat brought into the engine bay and the proximity to the top hose in my car. I don't track or race it so I don't think I need to take any further precautions. 1 James7 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil-h 29 Report post Posted June 18, 2020 Hi Martin, I’ve just been reading back through when you first had the Harrop kit fitted and you said the fuelling needed tweaking a bit at low rpm/idle. What was the car doing that made you think that? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 18, 2020 Hey Neil, it was very hard to control at low speeds around and just above idle. It would jerk around a lot, kangaroo and be difficult to control smoothly. After Mark adjusted the fuelling a little, everything was fine and much easier to drive smoothly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil-h 29 Report post Posted June 18, 2020 Sounds kinda like mine. There seems to be a bit of lag in the throttle response coming off idle, I was kinda hoping it’d work itself out as the fuel trims work themselves out but by the sounds of it it’ll need another map tweak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 Yes, that sounds the same. Did you have it done at Abbey? Ask Mark to do the same fuelling tweak as he did for mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Slow 4 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 On 6/14/2020 at 1:24 PM, MartinT said: I am beginning to get irritated with the TD UEL manifold. Let me explain. The manifold has a peculiar shape that comes up into the engine bay and then goes down again. I know that it's designed for their turbo which sits high up in the bay. However, I went with a Harrop supercharger so there is no need for it. That would be fine if it wasn't for the huge amount of heat it brings into the bay, and worse still, the incredibly close brush with the top water hose. I have re-wrapped the exhaust three times and the water hose twice (Abbey also did it during the service) and, no matter how much I twist the hose to increase the gap, there is rubbing and eventually it wears the wrapping away causing contact and smoke. I've reached the point where I've had enough of it - it's a serious point of weakness in an otherwise strong car. So, the question is: what other catless UEL manifold could I buy that gives the same or better performance, to replace the TD with? Preferably with a ceramic coating option. Will it be a straight swap? A remap is not a problem. You should be able to twist the rad inlet hose so that the elbow which looks like it's contacting the manifold 'hump' points a bit further upwards giving you more clearance? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 I've done that repeatedly, but the hose always seems to want to settle back to its natural shape so that trick doesn't last long before it's nearly touching the exhaust again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil-h 29 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 10 hours ago, MartinT said: Yes, that sounds the same. Did you have it done at Abbey? Ask Mark to do the same fuelling tweak as he did for mine. Sort of. I fitted the kit myself and Mark’s lent me an ECUTEK cable/licence dongle so I could flash a base map into the ECU. Then i’ve been sending him engine logs so he can refine the mapping and send me a new one to flash in. Problem is sometimes it’s not easy to capture and issue/explain what the cars doing, so it’s useful to have someone on here with a similar spec car to compare notes with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Slow 4 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 8 hours ago, MartinT said: I've done that repeatedly, but the hose always seems to want to settle back to its natural shape so that trick doesn't last long before it's nearly touching the exhaust again. you removed the clamps first before rotating? twisting with it still clamped up won't work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 19, 2020 48 minutes ago, Mr Slow said: you removed the clamps first before rotating? twisting with it still clamped up won't work Yes, I did. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neil-h 29 Report post Posted June 20, 2020 On 6/19/2020 at 8:08 AM, MartinT said: Yes, that sounds the same. Did you have it done at Abbey? Ask Mark to do the same fuelling tweak as he did for mine. On a related note, did you find that the original mapping made blipping the throttle difficult on downshifts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted June 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, Neil-h said: On a related note, did you find that the original mapping made blipping the throttle difficult on downshifts? Yes, it's certainly been better since the tweaks. That 'dead zone' is gone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 Now on XXR 527 18" wheels with 235/40 rubber. Really suits the car, I think. I still have to swap over the TPMS sensors (again) and get some Subaru centre-caps (can't be having the 86 ones!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kono 14 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 54 minutes ago, MartinT said: Now on XXR 527 18" wheels with 235/40 rubber. Really suits the car, I think. I still have to swap over the TPMS sensors (again) and get some Subaru centre-caps (can't be having the 86 ones!) Looks awesome what's the width and ET? Any scrubbing? I looked into XXR and could only find 18x9-9.5 which everyone keeps telling me you need to roll the arches to fit (which i am entirely 100% sure i would F up) unless you have major camber but your's look great :O! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cliddell 9 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 Quick question Martin: what clutch are you running? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 They're an odd size, 18 x 8.75 ET35. Fitment is perfect and there is no rubbing. I wouldn't want any wider than 235 rubber so they've worked out nicely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, cliddell said: Quick question Martin: what clutch are you running? Standard clutch, which has been fine so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cliddell 9 Report post Posted July 3, 2020 13 minutes ago, MartinT said: Standard clutch, which has been fine so far. Thanks, that's good to know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted July 4, 2020 A couple of people have asked me about fitment. Going from 225/45 on 17" to 235/40 on 18", both ET35, has increased overall diameter from 634mm to 645mm. The tyre fills the wheel well by 5mm more. Testing it against GPS yesterday shows that my speedo is now almost spot-on, over-reading by 1mph at 70. Gearing is very slightly longer, but it felt just the same as before. Poke is 5mm more and so is inner distance to suspension, so it's safe. Although the fronts look to be barely clearing the arches, there is no scrub on full lock. Scrub radius remains the same, so the alignment that Abbey Motorsport did for me remains good. 3 BRZ-123, spikyone and Subota Boy reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich196 103 Report post Posted July 5, 2020 you went for them then! They look great! 1 MartinT reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted July 5, 2020 I had to imagine those wheels on my car in my mind's eye. I had the idea they would look good and I'm very fussy about wheels being sympathetic to the car and its colour. I also didn't want to 'overcook' the grip by going to the next wider tyre, but I needn't have worried, the supercharger can still easily make them squirm on hard corners. Finally, I didn't want the ride quality to deteriorate, and luckily it's fine with just a touch more firmness. I've settled on 2.3 bar pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Subota Boy 402 Report post Posted July 5, 2020 Looking good! 1 MartinT reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites