Need help with BBK kit (Reyland kit or other)

[Quemadillo 1]

Hello forum,

I own a GT86 EU (Spain) with the stock brakes (not the Brembos) and I'm starting to track my car quite often (the plan is 6 trackday events avg per year).

The only mods that I have fitted in my car is:

• Blitz oil cooler
• SS brake lines and Motul RBF 600
• Ferodo DS2500 pads
• OZ Ultraleggera 17 inch, ET 35 and 7.5 of width 

 

I have no plans to add more power to the engine, I'm ok on how the car in terms of power is, I'm only looking for reliability and trackday "tolerance". After 3 trackdays my OEM rotors are bent (I be careful with them but shit happens) and before changing the rotors I started to look to what GT/BRZ folks do outside Spain (this car is not so popular in spain so is quite hard to find information) and I saw that a common thing is to evaluate Reyland AP Racing kit as a good option for this platform to avoid a lot of headache.

Also I read a lot about the Essex kit for our car but all the replacement parts need to be ordered to US because Essex have those references only for them so make them a not very good choice for me in terms of taxes because of customs and shipping. 

So I have a few doubts and I'm looking for some advise:

• Reyland kit, good for my usage?
• Reyland replacement parts (rotors), are "special" like Essex or I will be able to find the rotors on any AP Racing dealer?
• Do you think / know if Reyland kit will fit on my OZ Ultraleggera 17 x 7.5 ET35?
• Any order advise in terms of my use case?

 

Many thanks in advance,

Greetings from Spain. 

[Lauren 2259]

The Reyland Kit, 4 pot with 330mm discs would be great for your usage. I have had them on my car for two years and 40K miles. I have had no issues. 

The replacement discs are 'special' and made by Reyland. Not sure on replacement cost for the discs as I haven't needed to replace them yet. You can use AP discs and these will fit, but cost will be more. So if you want to use the cheaper Reyland discs then you will need to order through them. 

My best guess is that your wheels will probably fit. I have 17x8 TE37 with an ET of 38, I have lots of clearance. 

The AP kit works on track fantastically well. I use DS2500s and they are great on the road too. Seem to last well too. 

[Quemadillo 1]

18 minutes ago, Lauren said:

The Reyland Kit, 4 pot with 330mm discs would be great for your usage. I have had them on my car for two years and 40K miles. I have had no issues. 

The replacement discs are 'special' and made by Reyland. Not sure on replacement cost for the discs as I haven't needed to replace them yet. You can use AP discs and these will fit, but cost will be more. So if you want to use the cheaper Reyland discs then you will need to order through them. 

My best guess is that your wheels will probably fit. I have 17x8 TE37 with an ET of 38, I have lots of clearance. 

The AP kit works on track fantastically well. I use DS2500s and they are great on the road too. Seem to last well too. 

Hello Lauren,

one of the people that I was willing to have an answer is you, I saw a lot of post of you about brakes so I'm happy that I was able to catch your attention

Do you know anyone that uses this kit for trackdays (you?)? I would like to know if they will be good for "track abuse" always at stock power level, of course.

Also, do you know how they compare to the Brembos or the Essex kit? 

And last question, what shape make sense for me? Disc surface options: straight grooves, J hook gooves, curved grooves.

Thanks again,

 

[Church 209]

Imho you skipped stating one of most important bits that affect most others, suspension & brakes choices included. - What tires you are running on.

I doubt a bit that rotors are "bent". In most cases "warping rotors" is moot, what makes impression of such - uneven pad material deposits on rotors. Rebedding or resurfacing & rebedding, in most cases takes care of that. As for how to reduce chance of such, usually enough to cool them off properly by some cool down low pace lap & to not leave on brakes in paddock.

Essex APR kit is popular by price/performancy for track crowd in US (actually biggest twins market) and good .. but there is big but - it's by US vendor. Shipping/importing makes pricing less competitive, and high turnaround times due overseas shipping robs "locality bonus", that you can benefit when eg. sending in brakes for rehauling, getting spare parts and such.

I don't know much about Reyland kit, so won't comment on it. Except most aftermarket vendors usually offer downloadable brake fitment template that you can print out, glue on carton, cut it & use on your wheels (or in some wheel shop on wheels you are evaluating to buy) to measure clearance. Dig around their website, if nothing else, contact/mail/call them for such template.

As for other options, i'm most familiar with stock brakes (more forced to, due local regulations to keep car road legal). They do the job just fine, IF you keep track sessions not too long and if you use fit for job brake pads (imho DS2500 are a bit short for track use with stock brakes (they work better on track for Lauren, because with BBK they probably run less hot) on not too grippy tires (worked for me on PSS or PS4 215-225 wide for 15min sessions). For first few track days in general they might do, but one may quickly outgrow them, they are not real track pads, more of hybrid, OEM+. As saving grace, they do fine in daily driven car and even in winter/cold. They won't stand well against hardest abuse on track though, especially if you have went for much grippier tires). Also one can get a bit more out of stockers with brake ducts, and they are much better then most BBKs with wheel clearance, allowing eg. fitting R16 wheels for winter (though that might not be gain that matter for you in Spain).

If those mods are really your only mods that you listed, you missed important bits, track use wise.- You hadn't done more track oriented alignment (also missing some parts to enable to dial such alignment). If you plan to use stock coilovers/springs for a while, then suggest to get bits to allow get more camber and camber adjustment in general (especially front, but worth also for rear). THE cheapest would be getting camberbolt set for front lower 14mm hole & reuse stock bolts from there in upper, 16mm, next cheapest would be adding to those 14mm camberbolts another camberbolt set (16mm specific), next added aftermarket rear LCAs, Pedders topmounts and/or powerflex camberbushings, or go to camberplates. Stock front camber is very unfit for track use, that will reduce car grip in curves, add understeer and tires will be worn very uneven (worn/ripped front tire outer side).

From cheap extras track use wise, i suggest to bring along air pressure gauge (even cheap should do), CG lock. From safety equipment, to not seek from whom to borrow or to not lease it every time, to buy some helmet and gloves. Helmet that fits just right is nice thing to have, and gloves really help with steering wheel grip when hands get sweaty.

[will300 812]

Hi @Quemadillo

• Reyland kit, good for my usage?

Yes the Reyland kit is excellent for daily and track use. It's correctly sized and not to affect brake bias and is a cost effective upgrade. I've done 30minutes sessions using the kit with Ferrodo DS2500 brake pads without fade. Still on discs after over 3 years of use (maybe I'm not hard enough on the brakes).

Also note the Essex kit uses a race spec caliper without dust boots. 

• Reyland replacement parts (rotors), are "special" like Essex or I will be able to find the rotors on any AP Racing dealer?

There isn't really anything special about the Reyland discs, they can custom cut them to whatever style you'd like, i.e. add groves or j-hooks to them. 

AP disc's are a quality disc, due to the internal vein design and they are lighter. However AP disc's are twice the price.

AP replacement disc part no: CP3580-2898 G8 (Grooved discs)

You can also get replacement discs from DBA, PFC and Godspeed Brakes. (I'm sure there was one other manufacturer that does them). 

• Do you think / know if Reyland kit will fit on my OZ Ultraleggera 17 x 7.5 ET35?

I've tried a set of 17x7 +40 wheels and they clear. It's mainly the spoke design you need to watch. I'd expect your wheels to clear. 

• Any order advise in terms of my use case?

Not really, I will add that there is lot's of brake pad choice available. You can get pads from EBC, Carbotech, Endless, PFC, Pagid, Mintex, Carbon Lorraine, Winmax etc. 

Hope that helps.

[Quemadillo 1]

18 minutes ago, will300 said:

Hi @Quemadillo

• Reyland kit, good for my usage?

Yes the Reyland kit is excellent for daily and track use. It's correctly sized and not to affect brake bias and is a cost effective upgrade. I've done 30minutes sessions using the kit with Ferrodo DS2500 brake pads without fade. Still on discs after over 3 years of use (maybe I'm not hard enough on the brakes).

Also note the Essex kit uses a race spec caliper without dust boots. 

• Reyland replacement parts (rotors), are "special" like Essex or I will be able to find the rotors on any AP Racing dealer?

There isn't really anything special about the Reyland discs, they can custom cut them to whatever style you'd like, i.e. add groves or j-hooks to them. 

AP disc's are a quality disc, due to the internal vein design and they are lighter. However AP disc's are twice the price.

AP replacement disc part no: CP3580-2898 G8 (Grooved discs)

You can also get replacement discs from DBA, PFC and Godspeed Brakes. (I'm sure there was one other manufacturer that does them). 

• Do you think / know if Reyland kit will fit on my OZ Ultraleggera 17 x 7.5 ET35?

I've tried a set of 17x7 +40 wheels and they clear. It's mainly the spoke design you need to watch. I'd expect your wheels to clear. 

• Any order advise in terms of my use case?

Not really, I will add that there is lot's of brake pad choice available. You can get pads from EBC, Carbotech, Endless, PFC, Pagid, Mintex, Carbon Lorraine, Winmax etc. 

Hope that helps.

Hello, thanks for answering.

Really interesting clarification about the rotors and your use case. 

26 minutes ago, Church said:

Imho you skipped stating one of most important bits that affect most others, suspension & brakes choices included. - What tires you are running on.

I doubt a bit that rotors are "bent". In most cases "warping rotors" is moot, what makes impression of such - uneven pad material deposits on rotors. Rebedding or resurfacing & rebedding, in most cases takes care of that. As for how to reduce chance of such, usually enough to cool them off properly by some cool down low pace lap & to not leave on brakes in paddock.

Essex APR kit is popular by price/performancy for track crowd in US (actually biggest twins market) and good .. but there is big but - it's by US vendor. Shipping/importing makes pricing less competitive, and high turnaround times due overseas shipping robs "locality bonus", that you can benefit when eg. sending in brakes for rehauling, getting spare parts and such.

I don't know much about Reyland kit, so won't comment on it. Except most aftermarket vendors usually offer downloadable brake fitment template that you can print out, glue on carton, cut it & use on your wheels (or in some wheel shop on wheels you are evaluating to buy) to measure clearance. Dig around their website, if nothing else, contact/mail/call them for such template.

As for other options, i'm most familiar with stock brakes (more forced to, due local regulations to keep car road legal). They do the job just fine, IF you keep track sessions not too long and if you use fit for job brake pads (imho DS2500 are a bit short for track use with stock brakes (they work better on track for Lauren, because with BBK they probably run less hot) on not too grippy tires (worked for me on PSS or PS4 215-225 wide for 15min sessions). For first few track days in general they might do, but one may quickly outgrow them, they are not real track pads, more of hybrid, OEM+. As saving grace, they do fine in daily driven car and even in winter/cold. They won't stand well against hardest abuse on track though, especially if you have went for much grippier tires). Also one can get a bit more out of stockers with brake ducts, and they are much better then most BBKs with wheel clearance, allowing eg. fitting R16 wheels for winter (though that might not be gain that matter for you in Spain).

If those mods are really your only mods that you listed, you missed important bits, track use wise.- You hadn't done more track oriented alignment (also missing some parts to enable to dial such alignment). If you plan to use stock coilovers/springs for a while, then suggest to get bits to allow get more camber and camber adjustment in general (especially front, but worth also for rear). THE cheapest would be getting camberbolt set for front lower 14mm hole & reuse stock bolts from there in upper, 16mm, next cheapest would be adding to those 14mm camberbolts another camberbolt set (16mm specific), next added aftermarket rear LCAs, Pedders topmounts and/or powerflex camberbushings, or go to camberplates. Stock front camber is very unfit for track use, that will reduce car grip in curves, add understeer and tires will be worn very uneven (worn/ripped front tire outer side).

From cheap extras track use wise, i suggest to bring along air pressure gauge (even cheap should do), CG lock. From safety equipment, to not seek from whom to borrow or to not lease it every time, to buy some helmet and gloves. Helmet that fits just right is nice thing to have, and gloves really help with steering wheel grip when hands get sweaty.

Hello,

What a detailed answer with tons of info that will be fantastic for me, thank you so much!!! Let me answer you

• Tires -> federal rsr 595 pro
• Suspension -> stock
• One thing that you mention is something key for me that I didn't know why is happening to me at trackdays (front outer side get's really worn so fast). I need now to understand what are all those bits to order them and ask to fit them.
• GClock is something that I saw and I didn't know if it was a good idea or not but I'm not super happy with how "planted" I feel on the stock seats when I drive hard at the track so I will take a look to that.
• Helmet and gloves are ok  I already have an OMP helmet and Sparco gloves.

 

Thank you again

[Church 209]

Performance alignment in short:

On track you have much higher side G-forces vs driving on public roads (within legal limits), so tires/their sidewalls flex more, resulting in uneven/unoptimal contact patch limiting grip and and mostly wearing tire outsides, ones car "leans on" on such flexed to side tires. By taste of relatively many, most cars (including ours) with stock alignment are also tend to be more understeer biased (as vendors often consider it "safer", as many average drivers don't know how to deal with oversteer).

So most common performance alignment bit for car is to add overall static negative camber to compensate that tire flex in turns and as result get "just right" contact patch in turns on track, providing most grip. Another bit many change - add camber & grip more in front, to change car grip bias closer to neutral vs stock grip bias. That "just right" also wears tires evenly. As to what is optimal camber depends on where/how one drives and where most tire wear happens. If one goes to at least 5 trackdays per year, i guesstimate that 2/3rds or more tire wear to happen on track then on daily driving where they wear relatively little despite much more miles covered, thus it's beneficial to have alignment more oriented for track.

Stock alignment for twins is 0degrees front camber, -1.2dg negative rear camber. "Track" alignment often is front camber -3 to -3.5dg, and rear camber -2 to -2.5. Our cars stock have only toe adjustment, hence i listed few options to add camber adjustment/extra camber. I didn't like pillowball camberplates for NVH reasons, so tried to gain extra camber in other means to retain rubber topmounts.

===

CG-lock will not give one much, it just a bit fixates belt in lap area, won't fixate in eg. shoulders area. Then again it's cheap, and can be used with stock safety belt. Regarding safety, i suggest to not get just some "sport" bits. Safety things work in car as set/system. Mixing bits usually compromises safety and may make car more dangerous (long story/explanation how/why), hence why often not allowed on track or makes car non street legal. So all-stock, with stock seats/belts/airbags, or all-sport, with rollcage/bucket seat/multipoint harness/helmet, not something from both.

===

Hmm, rsr 595 .. no own experience, from googling they seem a bit more track oriented (220tw?), but in that area people mention other tires more often. My view though is to run a bit lower grip tires, for reasons as such imho are better for learning (for grip loss/breakaway to happen at slower speeds and in more linear fashion), should taxate less brakes and work better with softer rates of stock suspension, tires (and other things like brake pads) will last longer (cheaper trackday budget) and work better in wet too.

[Lauren 2259]

1 hour ago, Quemadillo said:

Hello Lauren,

one of the people that I was willing to have an answer is you, I saw a lot of post of you about brakes so I'm happy that I was able to catch your attention

Do you know anyone that uses this kit for trackdays (you?)? I would like to know if they will be good for "track abuse" always at stock power level, of course.

Also, do you know how they compare to the Brembos or the Essex kit? 

And last question, what shape make sense for me? Disc surface options: straight grooves, J hook gooves, curved grooves.

Thanks again,

 

Hi, they will be excellent for track use. I have done a fair number of trackdays and two seasons of sprinting on mine. My best is 160 track miles in a day and they never faded. I don't know how they compare to Brembos or the 'Essex' kit (no idea what the Essex kit is). I suspect they'll be as good as anything else. 

I went for straight grooves, but it doesn't massively matter really. 

[Lauren 2259]

52 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

Hello, thanks for answering.

Really interesting clarification about the rotors and your use case. 

Hello,

What a detailed answer with tons of info that will be fantastic for me, thank you so much!!! Let me answer you

• Tires -> federal rsr 595 pro
• Suspension -> stock
• One thing that you mention is something key for me that I didn't know why is happening to me at trackdays (front outer side get's really worn so fast). I need now to understand what are all those bits to order them and ask to fit them.
• GClock is something that I saw and I didn't know if it was a good idea or not but I'm not super happy with how "planted" I feel on the stock seats when I drive hard at the track so I will take a look to that.
• Helmet and gloves are ok  I already have an OMP helmet and Sparco gloves.

 

Thank you again

I'd recommend the Schroth 3 point harness about £120 on Amazon. Perfect for what you are doing. I love mine and it easily stows behind the drivers seat when you are driving on the road and using the stock seat belt. CG lock is better than nothing, but nowhere near as good as a harness. 

You are killing the outside of your tyres as you barely have any negative camber. Coilovers are the best way forward to sort that though. 

I'd agree with Church on running more road orientated tyres on track such as V105s, PS4's.

[Church 209]

Lauren: Essex kits (sprint & endurance) are popular in US AP-racing race caliper front-only BBKs by known in field brake shop, that retain braking bias with rear stock brakes, and have common & thick brakepad shapes, letting to use wide pad selection & save a lot on wearables on top of usual BBK benefits (of thermal capacity/cooling/weight reduction). Race calipers though, so not that good for DD, at least where there is winter with roadsalt. And US based shop, thus less competitive offering on this side of pond.

[james_ly 7]

Will the stock brakes hold up when using the OE Michelins, and stock suspension? I might put fresh brake fluid in first.

[spikyone 139]

10 minutes ago, james_ly said:

Will the stock brakes hold up when using the OE Michelins, and stock suspension? I might put fresh brake fluid in first.

I found mine got very hot on track, even with better fluid, so I have a Reyland kit waiting to go on the car.

@Quemadillo I can't tell you what they're like yet performance-wise, but I can recommend Reyland's customer service.  If you have any questions then drop them an e-mail, they're very responsive.

[Lauren 2259]

20 minutes ago, james_ly said:

Will the stock brakes hold up when using the OE Michelins, and stock suspension? I might put fresh brake fluid in first.

They will be okay, as long as you're not the last of the late brakers! Just do 10 minute sessions they'll be fine. Wouldn't worry about changing the fluid. 

[Church 209]

Even on stock primacies stock brake pads are a bit insufficient imho. So i'd change pads & fluid anyway. On primacies with rbf600 & ds2500 fade started to appear if at session i kept driving after 15min.

Then again, brake fade isn't something catastrophic. Usually doesn't happen suddenly like on/off switch, but at one point starts to appear and increase, signaling driver that it's time to slow down pace and go for brake cooling lap, and in next session drive for minute or two less (with same brake usage intensity).

[Quemadillo 1]

Hello all,

What a really interesting conversation happening here, I'm learning a lot!!!

I just want to give some update on my crazy plan, let me give you some context before:

Because of legal reasons in spain, I CAN validate to be road legal a few parts and I want to do it only once, that's why I'm thinking to go for the crazy thing of building all the stuff for a good and capable trackday car and enjoy with no so much issues. After reading all your comments I'm planing to go for this:

• Reyland brakes
• KW Clubsport 2 way coilovers
• Adjustable control arms (don't know very well the name) for the rear to be able to adjust the camber of the rear

I'm expecting that if I go for that I have a capable car, with plenty of room for learn how to drive fast with reliability and not so much maintenance.

Is a huge amount of money to burn on one shot, but probably is a better choice to do all in one attempt to be able to save some money and validate my car for road legal only once.

 

How this approach sounds?

[Church 209]

Well, i'd probably invest more in actual tracking and track wearables like tires & pads, then in modding out car. Imho "driver experience mod" cuts down laptimes most of any car mods . Seen also cases where one invests hell of a lot to make car "track ready" in his eyes .. and never actually go to track , while there are plenty old beaters close to stock in trackday. Including taxis & delivery vans, lol

Quemadillo: in your case i'd first go for a bit more minimal approach.

Get parts for performance alignment (eg. for front: SPC 81305 camberbolt set (optionally also Whiteline KCA416 camberbolt set), PED-580096 top mounts, Powerflex front LCA bushings PFF69-801G, for rear some from cheaper adjustable aftermarket LCAs (eg. stock-alike stamped steel clones like from SPC/Whiteline/Eibach)) and then dial performance alignment better fit for track. +more track oriented pads that will work better even at higher temps. (btw, the more track specialized, the more pads may have issues with off track daily driving use, like squaling noise/dust/extra rotor wear/worse cold stops, thus imho preferable approach is to have two pad sets, one for daily driving, another - for trackday, and switch between pad sets according use, to have best of both and to not suffer deficiencies of neither).

If moving up for even grippier tires, if going for even longer track sessions, then i'd think of BBK. (but not needed for me, as due my age, i get tired some even with 15min sessions, after that 100% concentration starts to drop, thus prefering after that to drive back to cool brakes, drink coffee, smoke cigarette :), with no felt wish to keep driving non-stop 20-30min long no matter what.

And only then at some point in future considering aftermarket coilovers. Not sure if some like KW ClubSport ones, as imho those are too expensive, and may compromise comfort for dual-used also daily driven car, and extra adjustments also mean ability to adjust/dial wrong, and unless one drives each lap very consistently, it is hard to properly test/evaluate changes to dial better, as one might not know, if logged lap time was from suspension adjustment, or from doing less costly mistakes in that session . Coilovers by themselves don't improve times that much. And are not requirement for camber adjustment.

 

[will300 812]

KW Clubsports will be overkill, I'd look at Tein Flex A for the best value coilover capable of both daily driving and track use. Coilovers will give you a much larger range of adjustment compared to bolts and are easier to setup. As you are going to do all the modifications at once this is the best option. 

Adjustable rear arms, you have a couple of basic options from SPC or Eibach, or you could go for ones with more adjustability from Summit/SWAVE, Verus Engineering or SPL Parts.

[Daninplymouth 61]

I’d probably look into an oil cooler too as the temperatures are much hotter and more consistent in spain

[Quemadillo 1]

Hello everyone!

@spikyone thanks for the tip. I wrote them an email asking for a quote including shipping to Spain and they answer really fast, not used to that speed here in Spain

@Church good tips and ideas, I'm going to take a look to those option and search where I can find them. 

@Daninplymouth I already own a fantastic oil cooler (Blitz) and BTW my issue is that the oil during the trackday don't move from the 90 /95 degrees (Celsius) mark.

@will300 I'm going to take a look to those coilovers

 

In general for everyone I used to race with RC cars and what I learned is that going for top parts allow me to don't spend the money twice, I follow that mental process here with big cars but yes is true that the difference is so big.

My car is only driven to and back of the track and twice a year I go to Benidorm (quite famous spanish place for UK as far as I know  ) so I'm ok not having a super comfortable ride, with some limits of course.

Again, thanks for all your help.

[Church 209]

Hmm, if only to/back from track .. i'd think of Tein SRC coilovers. And as car is more track oriented/used, i guess i'd build it a bit more fit for track. Starting from BBK (and much more track oriented pad choice), and adding multiple sport safety set things of cage/bucket seat/multipoint harness, also removing lot of comfort things, like interior, sound insulation, audio, aircon, install lightweight battery. And for tires .. probably would think of something like Michelin Cup 2 / Yokohama A052. And buy pirometer to dial alignment just right for specific setup/tires. And invest in some logging solution.

EDIT. Oh, and if very sticky tires, i'd think of some accusump/dry sump oiling solution & something to prevent fuel starvation in long curves with high side-Gs.

[Quemadillo 1]

@Churchlet me check those coilovers

@Laurendo you have any clue on the % of brake bias changed (and if is front/rear) of the Reyland kit? What I saw is that this kit is the same for the Impreza and our car and those cars have as far as I know different bias.

Thanks !

[Lauren 2259]

40 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

@Churchlet me check those coilovers

@Laurendo you have any clue on the % of brake bias changed (and if is front/rear) of the Reyland kit? What I saw is that this kit is the same for the Impreza and our car and those cars have as far as I know different bias.

Thanks !

It doesn't change it much at all. I didn't notice any real difference. The kit is designed for the car, rather than just bolt on with no consideration given to bias.  It is a bit easier to activate the ABS in the wet on track, but I would say you need a little less pedal pressure, so it's more a case of recalibrating your right foot, which you soon get used to. 

[Adi 40]

I had the Essex AP kit. It's not worth it. Unless you are a race/track only car, focused on shaving the last 10th of a second from your timing, forget about it. Besides no dust boots and being expensive to import:

- It squeals like crazy when coming to a stop on normal road, regardless of what pads you use, period.

- It has less mass than other kits, therefore it will get hotter. You need high temp race pads to use with it. If you are using hybrid track/road pads (like DS2500) it will lead to "warping", i.e.  pad deposits unevenly stuck to the disk, and require resurfacing. Also pads last less than you'd expect.

I don't have experience with Reyland, but I had very good experience with the StopTech BBK , which has been very reliable. Done about 18 Track days and 14 airfield training days on them. Great quality, plug and play, never had a problem, much better experience than the Essex kit.

Price-wise it comes about the same as Reyland.

 

[Quemadillo 1]

@Adi those stoptech look really nice, how good are in terms of wheel fit? I want to fit them on a 17 7.5 et35 ultraleggera

 

Thanks 

 

[Adi 40]

26 minutes ago, Quemadillo said:

@Adi those stoptech look really nice, how good are in terms of wheel fit? I want to fit them on a 17 7.5 et35 ultraleggera

 

Thanks 

 

I think they will fit, especially with et38. If you want to be sure you can write to OZ and ask them.

I sent them this letter, and they got back to me in 48 hours:

To:   info@ozracing.com

Dear Sir/Madam
I would like to know if your wheel  (put your own wheel spec here) can clear these Big Break Kit calipers on a Toyota GT86.
I am giving bellow links to the templates for these brake systems:

1. Stop Tech 328x28:     https://www.apcautotech.com/APCAutoTech/media/APCAutoTech/Files/WheelFitment/98-827-2430-01_FP.pdf
2. Essex AP Sprint Kit:    https://www.essexparts.com/storage/wysiwyg/FT86_CP8350-300_front_wheel_template.pdf

Thank you very much,
.....