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In the golden hour

I installed a set of these a week or so ago and have to say I am very impressed and pleased with both the drop, handling and comfort level. Also for those worried about them being "too low", don't be put off, I have easily gotten over some pretty nasty looking speed bumps. Cornering has been noticeably improved, the car does not lean as much as it did on the OEM springs. They are just as comfortable over the majority of surfaces, as you would expect if you do hit a pothole you will feel it but that is the same with all uprated springs. All in all... very happy I went for these rather than the 25mm springs which (to me) don't really give the appearance I would like.

Having removed the rear louvers I wanted something to make the rear end a little more aggressive, so put a carbon SARD style wing on. I used extension brackets to line it up with the TRD spoiler, which made it sit a lot better. Installation was nice and easy and it was a really good fit.

Oh, right. There is also option of slotting holes, as Deacon mentioned, but i somewhat dislike non-reversible mods. KW/ST shocks have top hole pre-slotted. IIRC also koni yellows in full set, not just inserts, have larger then stock upper hole. Word of warning, if deciding to dremel/slot strut hole, then to use stock bolts, eccentric camberbolts may slip there, people advise against camberbolts usage in slotted holes. If one needs more camber probably for track purposes, then imho worth front camber upto -3 at least (and rear -2.5). For rears i'd advise to get LCAs though. Cheapest of them are not that much more expensive (OEM stamped steel alikes clones like SPC/Whiteline/Eibach) vs eccentric rear LCA bushings + shop time for tedious adjusting with those bushings. If you mentioned stock height, i guess more rear camber from lowering not exactly best option to gain rear camber, thus better get rear LCAs right away.

If you oval the holes in thr front struts and use camber bolts you should get near to -2.5° At the rear there is no adjustment but if you lower it it will naturally gain camber at the rear. Around a 30-40mm drop will usually get you around -2° but it will often be different left to right which is where the need for adjustment comes in.

With stock suspension and at stock height: Camberbolts at both upper 16mm (Whiteline KCA416) and lower 14mm hole net me ~ -2.2 to -2.3 front camber maxed out. Supposedly those that lower suspension a bit via eg. lowering springs got with both camberbolts & lowering reached ~ -2.5. To get to -3 with stock non-eccentric topmounts i needed to use also eccentric front LCA bushing (Powerflex PFF69-801G or PFF69-801GBLK(stiffer)). There were at some point in past eccentric rubber Com-C topmounts by Whiteline (IIRC KCA335), but their bearing soon binded for most, whiteline tried few times/revisions to fix, finally gave up and delisted twins as compatible with those. Advising against buying/trying these. Recently Pedders released something similar to Com-C (PED-580096), but supposedly without it's issues. I haven't yet saw review/experience by someone installed/using them though. So with stock shocks & at stock height for -2.5 to -3 camber range, try both camberbolts + powerflex bushings, or camberbolts + pedders topmount.

It's not possible. I would say more like 1.5 degrees max with camber bolts. You won't get uneven tyre wear with stock settings i.e., barely any negative camber and it's fine at 2.5 degrees. There is no camber adjustment at the rear, so no.

My bad😥

Unfortunately not Kieth. 🙁 I'll pm you my number though, so it's easier in the future.

My non res sounded great on a standard manifold and cat. Like others though on inspection it was cracked and even sagging as one of the hangers on the back box was failing. I highly recommend going elsewhere. There are plenty of other options. I have the TD system and its a great bit of kit. Very well priced too.

I’ve edited the list but more may come some may drop out you never know with these really until the time comes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk