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Event Title: GT86/ BRZ Get together - Bishop Storford Event Author: VAD17 Event Date: 27.08.2019 An informal meet/ get together Tuesday, August 27th Coach and Horses Thorley Street, Bishops Stortford CM23 4AS https://www.destinationinns.co.uk/pubs/coachandhorses/ Table booked for 7PM (ask for either VAD or GT86/BRZ Club) Our reservation is for 12 people, but we'll confirm final number closer to the date Confirmed so far: 1. @VAD17 (organizer) 2. @Badger (+1) 3. @willclarke 4. @LGE 5. @Graham86 6. @Hokum 7. @Leevsfortyone 8. @gavin_t Interested (may be) 9. @sam534 10. @nerdstrike ... let me know who else would like to join GT86/ BRZ Get together - Bishop Storford

Event Title: Midlands Meet - 15th June (Smokestop BBQ) Event Author: will300 Event Date: 15.06.2019 Hello Everyone Myself and @Deacon have decided to host another Midlands lunch time meet, as it's been awhile since the last one. We recently came across an awesome looking BBQ restaurant in Shropshire, called Smoke Stop BBQ. Which looks like an ideal location for a meet and to grab some good food, think big juicy burgers, melt in the mouth steaks, succulent fried chicken, etc, you get the idea. We are planning to host the meet in a months time, on the 15th of June. If you are interested please confirm below, final numbers need to be confirmed two weeks before hand. The car park is of reasonable size, however we expect it to get rather busy. Please can we all aim to get there for 11:30 (no earlier please), this will allow us to park up together. A table has been provisionally booked for 10 people at 12:00. Here's the menu: http://smokestopbbq.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/Menu-for-web.pdf Thanks for looking. Will Location: SmokeStop BBQ Welshpool Road Shrewsbury Shropshire SY5 9LH Google Maps: https://goo.gl/maps/RJUi2Req3QQi1pZ79 Date: Saturday 15th June From: 11:30 with lunch booked at 12:00. Here are some photo's to get your mouth watering: List: 1. @will300 2. @Deacon 3. @Keethos 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Midlands Meet - 15th June (Smokestop BBQ)

I've ran with stock alignment years ago. The tyres took it okay to be fair. Don't mess around with adjustable front lower arms if they even exist, just go for pillowball top mounts. It's a no brainer. Better to go the whole hog thogh and fit coilovers if you want to transform the handling. You won't notice any increase in noise through adjustable rear lower arms even with rose joints as I have. I have SPL lower arms, billet aluminium, titanium adjusters and rose jointed ends.

I'd be up for this. Good pub opposite, Gardeners where we had a Sussex meet last year....thanks to Keith!! 😀

Very tempted by this.

This is my home town! I live in Derby now, might come down... Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk

In the calendar now

Yeah i'll look at accommodation round there soon so count me in! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Me (obviously) maybe a plus 1 Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

git-r: "right way" to choose optimum camber is via using pyrometer, as it may differ a bit for eg. different tires. But for some generic numbers "in ballpark"/as starting point .. - it mostly depends where and how you are going to use car. Where most of wear happens. For example - i may wear down ~ 10-15% thread per 10K km if dailying only. I can wear down on track in 10 trackdays tires till cord is sticking out :). So for me, with both dailying and tracking, with tire set usually around for one season, with 5-10 trackdays per summer, most of wear happens on track. Hence i optimise alignment mostly for it, as it's where i wear 90% of tire thread, despite daily driven mileage (but with little to no wear) being much much larger then that driven on track. So i put -3 front, -2.5 rear. Some for track rise upto -3.5 .. but it might be driver and tires dependent, and if one is serious about THE best/optimal, see mention of pyrometer usage to see exactly how contact patch is and how grip/wear results from temperature differences between outer/mid/inside of tire right after driving you want to optimize for. - if you don't push much and have only 2-4 trackdays per summer at most, i guess interim -2 to -2.5 front and -1.5 to -2 rear may work as good compromise. Yes, if tracked more then that tire thread outer side will still wear more, but not that drastically different as if tracking with stock alignment (of 0 camber front, -1.2 rear), so there will be more grip and better wear then stock aligned anyway. Nice bit, that this is easy to get for cheap - leave rear stock aligned, just add (cheap) camberbolts to front. - if one daily drivers only, and/or tracks only in winter on ice tracks , imho some -1 to -1.5 front and stock -1.2 rear is fine. Such relatively little camber (as there is not much tire sidewall flex during turns to compensate with static negative camber) will also work well on low grip. For example snow/ice/wet/gravel (from sport, including rallying/rally-x that is). Again, cheap, just add to front camberbolts, just one set of those at that. - drifiting optimal alignment needs loads of negative camber front due how tire is placed when countersteered in mid drift. Seen numbers like -4, -5 or even -6. Thus if one is serious about drifting, there is lot of other things to do/mod, for example increase maximum steering angle (lacking on ours due wide boxer engine/lacking clearance w/o rubbing), add more power, maybe completely redone suspension with eg. wisedfab and alike kits .. Wear/optimum camber .. as far as you are happy with wear and handling, it's good. With stock alignment on track i was not happy :). Penny pincher in me hated to change tires due completely worn outsides when there were still more then 50% thread left mid/inside. Extra camber also upped a bit cornering speeds due more grip. Downsides from more camber - slightly worse braking in straight line, and car tending to a bit more follow longitudinal grooves in road surface. Wear wise there extra camber in range of -1.5 to -2.5 shouldn't add much extra camber wear, it's toe, if off too much, that may act as tire wear killer. Thus when doing alignment, suggest being extra anal about toe, getting it even side to side and to extent of just what one may wish. My choice usually is zero toe front, and slight toe-in rear of eg. total toe ~ +0.15 to +0.2 degree. Almost like stock, with exception that i ask alignment techs to dial it way more precize then what is allowed as passing for OE alignment :). If you noticed, in most sample camber numbers i usually aim in front by half degree negative more camber then in rear. That is to make car less understeer-y then with stock alignment (0 front, -1.2 rear).

I run 2.5 degrees negative on the front and 1.45 on the rear and don't have issues with uneven tyre wear, on the track or on the road.