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Thank you. Hopefully some of it'll be helpful to others.

Just run it totally stock it will be absolutely fine. I tracked mine a fair bit before I changed anything. Don't change anything until you decide what you need to do. Always a good idea to run it stock and then change as you go along and where necessary. Cheaper that way too.

What a fantastic thread 👍 So much inspiration here, thanks for sharing all your findings! Cheers 🍻

Thanks for everyone’s help. Decided on a go pro hero 6 black & will use it with racechrono pro & Hague head rest mount. Just got to wait until my birthday now.

Awesome pics, car is looking really good!

Few pictures taken at Japfest by @will300 and Touge Photography

git-r: for very first trackday you may even try to go with everything completely stock. You'll feel better what is to your liking and what is not, some baseline, against which you will be able to evaluate changes, limits you'll hit and now will know by own butt-dyno feel/experience which and if and to what extent may need improving. Also twins imho are surprisingly capable even in completely stock form (probably due low weight). Just that i've seen people first modding s**t out of cars with 10K+ budget, and then at most doing one trackday at most at leasury pace if doing at all, with eg. BBK installed more "to better fill new big wheels", not to rise thermal capacity (after all, best performance mod ever is making driver better, not car, with more seat time & maybe help of HPDE instructors to shorten learning curve). My "minimum track set" would be rear LCAs, front camberbolts in both holes, performance alignment with those, more track oriented brake pads & brake fluid of higher boiling temps, that's it. I arrived to it in "steps", but it also better educated me as to what were limits i hit, what i now wished to fix, which mod, installed/changed one step at a time, affected what and how. Eg. stock alignment ripped outsides and was a bit too understeery in some turns - felt how extra camber (especially front) helped with that for higher speed in curves and grip balance easier to drive with, changed toe settings to even and slight toe-in rear - helped both for winter driving and accelerating out of corners on track, brake pads & fluid - i now could drive longer sessions without fade .. but i still feel beneficial to had first felt how stock fluid boiled and pads overheated/glazed to get that brake fade feel and importance of improving that part :). Beneficial to have those tires worn in non optimal fashion and to experience that front understeering first. Grippier tires upped speed .. but i'm glad to first wear down completely stock primacies when familiarizing with car both in daily driving & tracking it, instead of upgrading right away after purchasing car, to had experienced what people were spoken of "fun from low grip playfulness" instead of dulling everything with high grip "tramlining" tires to not loose traction even if i do stupid driving inputs and with which i wouldn't know how to handle when (at much higher speeds) they will loose grip in probably less progressive/more abrupt manner. One can call primacies in names as no-grip, "prius" tires and such, but in reality even with those one can pull respectable side-Gs on skidpad and often go with confidence on roundabouts at 1.5x normal speed of generic family cars. If one will loose grip, it's usually because of driver inputs, especially of steering yanking and accelerator lead-footing and by then imho lower grip limits ease actual learning of fine control, input steadiness, how to correct when one looses grip .. and make mistakes cost less

Lauren: in some combinations with other parts and in some of joints i'm certain slight extra NVH of pillowball bushings can be acceptable for most. Just not in this particular case with stock shocks and at topmounts for me. Many aftermarket coilovers have in stock set own camplates, many report their moded suspension often even more comfortable then stock and with acceptable NVH even when going over bad quality paved roads with potholes. I tried several iterations, like reinstalling at other shop, asking to take extra care, check for common mistakes (eg. not tightening top nut), get most camber at lower mount with camberbolts and just a little at topmounts .. gave up. I doubt a bit misinstallation, i doubt for camplates to be at fault (AFAIK many use raceseng ones with wide selection of shocks without much issues). I - couldn't. I have stiffer bushings in several places (eg. rear velox LCAs, front LCAs have whitline extra caster bushings & powerflex for camber, topmounts while rubber, but are stiffer group-N ones, i have gearbox & tranny bushings, rear subframe bushings, planning to install even more, like engine mounts, steering rack lockdown and such), i do notice more NVH after installing most of them, but all that extra NVH was below my tolerance treshold. With exception of front camberplates with pillowball with my current still stock shocks. That lone part was unbearable even if i tried hard to live with that. I may try 3rd time installing camplates, when i will install not delivered yet B6 shocks, but maybe not .. after all, i reached camber of -3 using other means. It's proven and works and didn't had those issues.

@Church, yes pillowball mounts on the front will increase NVH. You don't notice the rear lower arms though. Maybe it's because I've got pillowball mounts up front? 🤣

I won't agree with you won't notice bit. I did notice .. to unbearable extent that i quickly reverted to rubber top mounts and searched for alternative ways to get front camber. Possibly with some aftermarket shocks it would have been different (as many drive with camberplates coming eg. in set of coilovers and say NVH is acceptable), but for me (stock shocks+raceseng camplates) it was unbearable on local roads :/. There is difference of just driving over some road pavement defects without minding them, or hear loud hit noises like dropping toolbox on concrete, that make impression that soon something will break, and thus trying to keep in mind every defect on roads and steer around them every time. git-r: there are front adjustable arms too. But almost never they are considered, because unlike rear LCAs, front ones relatively cost fortune and also all have pillowball joints (non street legal @LV). For example these . Hence on twins to gain camber adjustment most popular way is adjustable rear lca-s, and different combinations of camberbolts + topmounts (most commonly camberplates) front.