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Well, i'm maybe using it a bit different context, as main meaning, which can be for example googled, as "tendency of wheels to follow contours in the surface upon which it runs". I'm using more with meaning like - "car has way too much grip for it's capabilities" / "over-tyred" / "car can be driven without care floored everywhere, not dropping speed anywhere" / "always having more grip then needed, needing intentional very stupid driver inputs to overcome grip/traction". In exaggerated fashion - "mini on formula track slicks", car drives like tram on rails no matter what you do. Just that many may like for giggles some playfulness here and there, especially if those some tire chirps here and there, or small extra rear rotations, or some intentional tire spins do happen at still slow/legal speeds, and may miss with more grippier tires. With later - of course one can still loose grip .. subjective fun aside, problem being, the more grip tire has, that loosing grip now will happen eg. at higher speeds, in more abrupt manner, with less reaction time to correct. Of course i've seen also line of thought - those "prius" primacies have too little grip, i need to install grippy tires, now car drives "as it should come from factory" .. but from my experiences, when i still had primacies (for around 10-15K daily driven miles and then 4 trackdays, to "finish them off" :)), i still could drive on average a bit faster then (admittedly heavier or less powerful family) cars i drove before (if average speed in same roundabout counts), and yes, car will loose grip/traction when eg. giving gas mid turn, or when going in some turn faster then tire grip allows .. but that doesn't mean that tires are bad, that doesn't mean that right way to "fix" is not to adjust own driver inputs to not mindlessly push everywhere but adding in that much tire grip for it to be more then own wrong inputs may overcome. IIRC twins with stock primacy hp tires pulled 0.89 g on skidpad. I'm not willing to classify that as "bad tires", and one can drive with them without any grip/traction loss aswell .. imho there is misimpression that normal cars have more grip comes from them usually having softer suspension>more roll, which subjectively tells driver to ease off, while twins roll less, thus one guiding by subjective feel/habbits push more .. till grip loss, and then labels these tires as gripless. As to mention that they do bad in cold & wet .. well, they are not winter nor all-season tires. So even if UK winters are relatively warm and snow-less, i'd simply change to all-seasons from mid-autumn to mid-spring. When i drive in rain, i simply push less, drive slower/more careful - it's common sense to do so on other cars, why it should be wrong to do same on these cars/on primacy tires? It's driver duty to drive within car capabilities/available grip/road specifics, adjusting oneself, not requesting that only right way is to mod car to enable not minding how one drives. Yes, for example mentioned PS4 have fenomenal wet grip, to level that it surprised me, remembering track day soon after fitting them, where speed/laptime didn't drop that much in morning when track was still wet, yes, primacies grip less .. but that change is not required, and primacies are usuable, and there are good bits too in having less grip like on Chris Harris video, where he changed all four tires to space-saver donuts on AMG merc and took around track . So imho there is nothing wrong when buying twin to drive it on those stock primacies and they are fine for learning/familiarizing with car .. just that i wouldn't get them as next set because of price and because trackdays joined my hobby list

So finally over the weekend I got the new engine to fire up. When I initially tried to start the engine on its base map I just couldn’t get it to start. I checked over everything and got my tuner logged on remotely and we began to trouble-shoot. I initially thought maybe the new fuel pump was acting up but the newly installed pressure sensor was showing good pressure (paying for itself already!) The issue was manifesting as stall on cranking which we thought was maybe a lack of cranking amps from the battery, which to be fair we had stressed while trying to trouble shoot. I really couldn’t understand where the issue was coming from but I had my suspicion that the battery was probably not the issue. Then by chance while researching the issue on-line I came across this article and it all started to sound too familiar. https://www.picoauto.com/library/cas...gine-non-start Just to be sure I dug out some photos I’d taken during assembly and sure enough I could tell I had made the same mistake when setting the timing. And it appears I’m not the first to have done it either. Having gone through the OEM manual again I can see exactly how I made the mistake, luckily when you do make this mistake you essentially set the right bank 180Deg out of phase so there is no valve interference but it does mean the front cover has to come off. In the end I opted to strip the front off the car and do it in situ. Once the timing was sorted the engine fired up first turn of the key. I haven’t run it up to temperature yet as it will be broken in on the dyno, so I can’t tell how many oil leaks I have yet....but fingers crossed! Once that was completed I spent a bit of time configuring the CANBUS signals between the Motec ECU and AIM dash. Currently I have the oil pressure sensor routed directly to the AIM dash to control the Accumsump but I plan to re-wire it via the Motec to utilise the inbuilt rev cut, then relay the signal over CANBUS to the AIM dash. As the AIM Dash is receiving two CANBUS signals (ECU, and OEM Chassis CAN) but it can only run its inbuilt template on one channel I’ve had to remap the OEM chassis signals on the second channel. It’s quiet simple to do once you know the addresses etc. The info might be useful to other 86 owners so the signals I’ve mapped are below. I’ve only mapped these few as they are the main ones I’m after. So that’s it for now, my final part still hasn’t arrived yet but as soon as lockdown is lifted it will be off for dyno tuning.

Leave it on Primacy tyres, they're way more fun [emoji16]

What I always say, is the low grip tyres is kind of the point of the car?

@davbelfast if you don't even have the car yet, I would recommend running the standard Primacy tyres for a few months. When you learn to control the car on those tyres, you won't have to get better tyre purely out of fear like most here do... Sure, there are good tyres like Michelin PS4, but they cost a lot, and take away from the tail happiness and the fun factor of the car imho. I just think that you need to learn to drive the car the best you can with "bad" tyres, so when you're ready to put new good tyres on, you're a better driver and you don't rely on tyres so much, but more on your throttle control and steering.

I must admit the first time I drove mine after I'd changed the Michelins I thought I'd ruined it. It gripped without sliding. Now I've had the Hankooks on a while I can safely say they are massively better tyres.

Quite apart from the fine fine fine massive skids nature of the primacy, they're very robust and that tends to mean you might find old tyres on your buy. An old primacy is not to be trifled with on greasy roads!

The problem with the Primacies isn't that you have to adjust your driving in the wet - it's that you have to drive ridiculously cautiously. They really are much worse in the cold and wet than in the dry, and when they lose grip in wet conditions they do it without any warning. It's a cliff edge: grip, then suddenly you're sideways or lighting up the dashboard. I don't consider changing tyres to be a modification. It's not like running semi slicks; PS4 are road tyres that come as standard fit on mid range hot hatches! The Primacies require too much compromise in your driving and it's just a complete waste of a sports car to have them fitted. Lateral grip isn't too bad in the dry but even then I found the traction pretty poor. As for using all-seasons tyres, that's just as pointless as using winters. If you're switching between all-seasons and Primacies, you still have a highly compromised "summer" tyre if it rains in the summer - which it often does. PS4 will work year round, and the car is less horrible to drive in the middle of winter on those than it is on a wet summer's day on Primacies.