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Time to put my boosted Toyota GT86 TRD up for sale. I have owned this car for over five years now and have loved every minute of it. The only reason I’m looking to sell it now is to be a sensible (boring*) adult and buy my own place sooner rather than later. It is the rare TRD edition which from memory only sold around 180 in the country when first released and was a serious premium over the stock car. The Trd comes with the full Trd body kit which looks much more aggressive than the stock body, Trd gearknob, Trd fuel cap & 18” Trd wheels which are made by Enkei. It also has the factory fitted sat nav. It has had the Turbo kit fitted for just over 2 years now and in that time I have had zero issues with it whatsoever. The car has done around 48k miles and only 8-10k of that has been boosted so certainly not had a hard life. Looks wise the car is fairly stock but the following modifications are fitted to the car – · Tuning developments stage 2 turbo kit which includes the following - unequal length manifold, precision cea billet turbocharger, tial mvr 44mm external wastgate, intercooler, turbo blanket, uprated exedy clutch, omni power map sensor, 320lph fuel pump & 850cc injector dynamics injectors · Tuning developments lightweight flywheel · Tuning developments oil cooler · custom front and rear black badges (Look much nicer than the standard silver Toyota ones) · beatsonic shark fin aerial · cobra over pipe · cobra secondary de cat · custom fabricated tuning developments 2.5 inch cat back with quad slash cut tips · m-tec shifter springs · power flex gearbox rear mount insert · cusco extended throttle pedal · gas bonnet struts · Cosworth baffled sump · blockhead dual rhd gauge pod holder · Aem digital boost gauge · Aem digital oil pressure gauge · Cusco magnetic oil drain plug The car made around 330hp when it was mapped on the dyno at 8psi of boost & a lower map of around 280hp at 5psi (Can’t remember the exact figures from the top of my head). It has always been correctly warmed up before driving and has only been a weekend toy for a good number of years but I’m seeming to use it less and less so hence the saleL. It has always been well maintained and comes with full service history. There are a couple of imperfections which I’d rather be honest about – 1 – There are 1 or 2 small stone chips on the bonnet, these cars seem prone to it and obviously a 7 year old car is likely to have the odd stone chip but want to be as honest as possible. Otherwise the car is in very good condition 2 – I noticed the tyres have just started perishing from not being used enough so I’ll be looking to replace these in the next few weeks. If it gets sold before I replace them it will be reflected in the price I’m looking for £15,750 which considering a stock trd sells for 14-15k and the turbo bill alone for this was just under £8k I feel like this is a good price. I am open to sensible offers and would possibly accept a part ex depending what it is. The car is located in Grantham, Lincolnshire. Any questions just ask. Thanks

Just seen a post on Facebook regarding a mod to help with oil pressure. See https://m.facebook.com/GPPerformanceEurope/photos/pcb.3003339963095766/3003318503097912/?type=3&source=49 Basically looks like they are tapping into the out feed from the oil cooler sandwich plate, then running a line from there into a separate oil filter then straight into the main oil gallery. They report it increases the pressure by a bar! Just thought I would share the love for fellow FI owners and also be interested in people's opinions on this. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

SuperPro rear ARB brace bars in brand new condition. I bought these to replace the rusted Whiteline ones I currently have fitted but unfortunately they do not fit with the Verus rear diffuser I have. Packet has been opened but the brace bars never fitted. I'm looking for £50 plus postage. Any questions please ask.

Day 61 Last week the BRZ arrived back via contactless delivery. Fully aligned and ready to go. Ignore the bonnet gap, the bonnet is open as I needed to fix the lock before I close it: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr However my first job was to start stripping the front end back down so I could fit the rads/aircon/fans. Super easy job now I have done it multiple times. Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr My make shift painting station where I painted everything within the engine bay/front that had come from other cars or had come from Subaru in the black primer type finish. Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr I decided to go with matt black for a simple clean look. I will eventually do the entire engine bay in matt black as it will tie in with whichever colour I do the exterior and the engine isnt coming out for the respray so its easier for me to paint it matt black and get a decent finish. Hence why you can see paint under where the front wings will go. Next I fitted the radiator/air con/fan assembly, I had to swap over the air con metal hoses as mine were also damaged from the crash. I then followed the correct process to fill/bleed/test the radiators with no signs of leaks: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr This was a relief as it means I can move the car with no fear of damaging everything as this now means I have a running car. Idles perfectly, the engine seems good with no error codes which is a bonus. Once that was done I set about bolting up the front end, fitting the crash beam, crash sensors etc and accounting for all the hanging connectors. All went back perfectly. I also refitted the airbox, snorkel and the surround that sits between the two. New items added to the list of bits to buy include the radiator filler bracket and a new filler neck for the washer reservoir: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr Next I plumbed in the new washer reservoir which had been destroy in the crash. Check for leaks and all good. Now I need to order some washer jets for the headlights but other than that the washer system is now fully functional again: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr Prep for paint Fixing wise there isnt much left to do so the car can now go for paint, however I need to strip the car to keep costs down. So I stripped everything needed to get the car painted including: Both wings Rear Lights Door Seals Window Seals Aerial Roof trim Wing Mirrors Kick Plates Door cards (I will replace weather seal plastic once painted) Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr So the only things left that I need to do this week are the: Rear Bumper Door Handles Then its ready for paint: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr Untitled by James Baker, on Flick Also my bonnet lifters arrived, they will go on the shelf to be fitted once the car has been painted as they will only have to come off again: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr Also a courier today is collecting a Boral Unequal length manifold and a Milltek Overpipe that came up for sale at a great price. I fancy a bit of Scooby rumble from the boxer while I save up for forced induction. Removing Exterior Door Handles If anyone has any tips for doing this on a BRZ/GT86/FRS that have the touch sensors, please let me know. Only way I can see so far is to remove the glass to get to the connector to disconnect it. Its super easy for cars without this feature as its one torx headed bolt and you are done, not so simple on the UK spec cars with the touch sensors.

Hello Dave, welcome aboard. I've had my car seven years and have driven 148,000 miles in it from new. In that time I've had the opportunity to try different tyres. I've also driven a fair amount of other people's GT86's too. I kept the Primacy tyre for the first 25,000 miles or so. I think it's good to learn the balance of the car with this tyre. You can play with it at low speeds and it's a lot of fun, bringing out the playful nature of what is an excellent and well balanced chassis. The Primacy tyre is also fantastic fun on track if you so wish. After about 4 laps they go off, but stay consistent and you can just slide and drift the car all day. They last really well too. That said, they aren't the most progressive tyre and it can be a bit tricky in the wet. Yes in low temperatures in greasy conditions they can prove tricky, though that is true of any tyre. Everyone will tell you to fit Michelin Pilot 4 tyres. Whilst they are a great tyre, they take away from the playfulness of the chassis. They are a a great choice if you are not a confident or experienced driver as for the most part they will totally tame the car and you'll feel more confident. I have these on my car because I sprint my car and they are the most competitive tyre in class, giving around a 1.5-2 second advantage on a sprint lap. Yes, at high speeds you can still slide the car and have fun, providing you are committed, but the speeds at which you do this mean that you will not really be able to do so on the public road. The PS4 is great in the wet too. In fact they are utterly brilliant in the wet, a point I have underlined whenever it is wet in the Toyota Sprint Series, which will see all of us running them at the top of the leaderboard. I like the PS4, it's a great tyre. But, you have to push it to have fun on the road. Another really good choice is the Yokohama Advan Sport V105. I have gone through 5 sets of these and would have carried on with them were it not for them not being competitive in the sprint series I compete in. They are perhaps the best balance between grip and playfullness for the GT86. They are more progressive than the Primacy but not as grippy as the PS4. This means you can still have fun drifting a roundabout or on a decent B-road blast. They do really well on track too and you can slide the car around just as well as the Primacy. If I wasn't competing in the sprint series I would run a V105 instead of a PS4. It makes the car far more fun to drive. The other point to note is that I use stock 215/45/17 sizes albeit on a forged lightweight 17x8 wheel. If you like to play with the chassis do not make the mistake putting on wider tyres. All it does is detract from the fun and add unsprung weight.

Hi Michael This kit should definitely fit, it has been designed to fit behind the OEM wheels: https://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=25282&xSec=8430 Personally however this the best kit available and most popular, but I can't confirm fitment with your wheels. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-BRZ-Toyota-GT86-330mm-front-brake-kit-with-AP-Racing-4-pot-calipers/254364472322?hash=item3b394dd402:g:7zQAAOSwuGhbwy2Z It is one of the least aggressive BBK's and does clear most wheels, except the stock ones. Unfortunately those Speedlines have a really high offset so it's hard to say, you could however run a 5mm spacer which will help clear the wheel or if you don't want to run a spacer the rotor hats are custom made so they can make them thicker to have a built in spacer so to speak.