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Nearly Back On The Road So I set out to give a true reflection of what it would take to get the car back on the road. I have done all the work myself minus the frame shop straightening the front end/welding on the new slam panel and the respray itself. If you take out of the consideration any mods I've purchased that weren't needed such as rear lights/headunit/STI parts etc and just look at what it would take to get a similar 86/BRZ back on the road with similar damage I have spent as follows. Exactly as I've done it with facelift front end and new bumper/wings plus full colour change: Total on the road cost: £8930.46 That includes: Crash Damaged BRZ £4200 Used Bonnet £150 Used Crash Bream £50 Used Rad £20 Used A/C rad £20 Used Fans £20 Used Airbox and washer bottle £100 Odd used and new clips, brackets, fog lights, wiring, rear bumper etc £200 New Slam Panel Subaru £306 New Front wings and brackets, top plastic grill trim, 4x rubber bushings for rad assembly Toyota £309 New Vland Headlights £380 New Facelift front bumper with all the brackets, grills etc £617.92 New Headlight rubber seals(BRZ Only) Subaru £58.14 New Headlight washer jet covers Subaru £70 New Various bolts Subaru £29.24 Labour for frame shop to straighten the car £380 Respray in Porsche RS Green £2000 (Note for those that ask why so cheap I did all the labour in terms of stripping the car minus the bonnet/doors/boot lid For that above cost I have a 2013 BRZ with around 40k on the clock, spotless interior, heated seats, spotless exterior which is unique and you wont see another one in that colour, black headlights etc. Yes I could have bought a working 86 for that sort of price (Only seen very rough BRZ's sub £10k) but it would possibly have higher mileage, not as in good condition and certainly not unique. It would also have the pre-facelift front end which im not a massive fan of. So for me I am more than happy with it as it stands and gives me a solid base to start modifying. Getting it on the road even cheaper: Now I could have got it on the road for much cheaper if I had waited around for used parts that matched the body colour and didn't insist on retro fitting a facelift front end. This would have avoided £2000 in bodyshop costs straight away, plus the used body parts would have been a lot cheaper than the new bits I went for like the front bumper and wings. Total on the road cost: £6383.54 That includes: Crash Damaged BRZ £4200 Used Bonnet £150 Used Crash Bream £50 Used Rad £20 Used A/C rad £20 Used Fans £20 Used Airbox and washer bottle £100 Odd used and new clips, brackets, fog lights, wiring, rear bumper etc £200 New Slam Panel Subaru £306 Used Front wings and brackets, top plastic grill trim, 4x rubber bushings for rad assembly £300 New Vland Headlights £380 Used Front Bumper £150 New Headlight rubber seals(BRZ Only) Subaru £58.14 New Various bolts Subaru £29.24 Labour for frame shop to straighten the car £380 Yes I was lucky with some of the used parts coming up super cheap, but if I can find bargains, others can. Sam Nadeem from SJ Autosports is a great source of well priced used parts for 86's/BRZ's in the UK. I did all the work with a Halfords tool kit and a Ryobi impact gun. I've never rebuilt a crashed car before so have learn't a lot along the way. Now its time for its MOT tomorrow, then tax and insurance. Once thats done its off the bodyshop for its final polish now its all back together then modifications begin. Very happy its gone from this: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr To This: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr

Are you local to Wakefield pal?

My black lug nuts arrived today, internal drive ones so I chucked them on this afternoon alongside the centre caps: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr I also gave the car a quick wash so I could coat it in Meguiars ceramic hybrid ceramic wax to give it some protection as I haven't had chance to give it a proper coating of wax just yet: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr It was nice seeing BRZ alongside my other Porsche RS green car, my R53 Mini: Untitled by James Baker, on Flickr

No worries you are welcome. I reckon I'll be doing a track day around January as the new car is apparently going to arrive sometime in November if all goes to plan. I have a GR Yaris with circuit pack on pre-order since March!

I've got the GPS unit stuck to the top of the head unit, works mostly fine. It did have a period of misreading the speed but not sure if that was just poor signal as it rarely happens. Apparently the stock GPS unit for the satnav is on top of the head unit so shouldn't be an issue. The only issue with it stuck on top of the head unit means I need to take the vent out above the head unit, then unstick the GPS unit before removing the head unit. Not something you need to do often though...

Use an Allen key and ring spanner to loosen the top mount nuts to the top of the thread with the car on the ground makes it much easier and prevents you spinning the shaft. No buzz gun required then.

Make sure you’re Nephew is competent I’ve no doubt he is as I’ve heard horror stories of people spinning the strut undoing them and buggering them up Simon 😢

It’s been a little while since I updated this thread, but I have completed the last few modifications and got two trackdays under its belt The first trackday was just to get the engine broken in, while all went well I did however notice that oil temps were rising quite rapidly, and I typically don’t like to see over 110 Deg C. Prior to the power hike and engine build oil temps were easily kept in check with the HKS oil cooler but after the first outing I reckoned more air needed to be directed to the cooler. Best option was to remove the lower bumper lights and replace with mesh, I opted to do both sides just to keep the symmetry Last little addition was an AIM smarty-cam to connect up to the dash, I’ve messed with GoPros for a while but always find it fiddly and more often than not I forget to turn it on or its battery runs out, whereas this logs constantly and the instant data overlays is very handy Some footage from the first try, I have some fiddling to do with the track map settings but otherwise it was very easy to use and setup. Best to disregard some of the lines in the video above, I’m still recalibrating with the increase in power and lack of track-time recently but it certainly has the makings of a fast car, also a new set of tyres are required After the first two track-days there are two items on the list to address I seem to have developed what can be heard in the video as an issue on 3rd to 2nd downshifts, which I reckon is synchro related, I’ll have to look into it at some stage but I’ll give it another day or two before pulling the gearbox again. Second and more pressing issue is noise, I’m currently too loud for track easily over 106db so it will be off shortly to get a new repack-able rear section, and a bolt on secondary silencer that I can attach trackside if need for some of the even more stringent tracks like Oulton etc.

So finally over the weekend I got the new engine to fire up. When I initially tried to start the engine on its base map I just couldn’t get it to start. I checked over everything and got my tuner logged on remotely and we began to trouble-shoot. I initially thought maybe the new fuel pump was acting up but the newly installed pressure sensor was showing good pressure (paying for itself already!) The issue was manifesting as stall on cranking which we thought was maybe a lack of cranking amps from the battery, which to be fair we had stressed while trying to trouble shoot. I really couldn’t understand where the issue was coming from but I had my suspicion that the battery was probably not the issue. Then by chance while researching the issue on-line I came across this article and it all started to sound too familiar. https://www.picoauto.com/library/cas...gine-non-start Just to be sure I dug out some photos I’d taken during assembly and sure enough I could tell I had made the same mistake when setting the timing. And it appears I’m not the first to have done it either. Having gone through the OEM manual again I can see exactly how I made the mistake, luckily when you do make this mistake you essentially set the right bank 180Deg out of phase so there is no valve interference but it does mean the front cover has to come off. In the end I opted to strip the front off the car and do it in situ. Once the timing was sorted the engine fired up first turn of the key. I haven’t run it up to temperature yet as it will be broken in on the dyno, so I can’t tell how many oil leaks I have yet....but fingers crossed! Once that was completed I spent a bit of time configuring the CANBUS signals between the Motec ECU and AIM dash. Currently I have the oil pressure sensor routed directly to the AIM dash to control the Accumsump but I plan to re-wire it via the Motec to utilise the inbuilt rev cut, then relay the signal over CANBUS to the AIM dash. As the AIM Dash is receiving two CANBUS signals (ECU, and OEM Chassis CAN) but it can only run its inbuilt template on one channel I’ve had to remap the OEM chassis signals on the second channel. It’s quiet simple to do once you know the addresses etc. The info might be useful to other 86 owners so the signals I’ve mapped are below. I’ve only mapped these few as they are the main ones I’m after. So that’s it for now, my final part still hasn’t arrived yet but as soon as lockdown is lifted it will be off for dyno tuning.

Can't speak for anyone else but I'm finding it pretty fascinating so far, some great attention to detail going into the build.

I'll also apologies at this point for the onslaught of posts, as some of you can probably tell I'm copying it across from a long running build thread on a local Irish forum, but though people on here might like it too, and to be fair I've purchased a lot of items and got a lot of support from traders on here so was time to give some love back

You could try this as a better tweeter option : Untitled by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr When the audio guy did my install he didn't think atop the dash would be best for sound.