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Dunno if I'm not searching hard enough.. but has anyone made a definitive thread of "rattles and noises", it seems the car has a lot of rattles that mean different things. Right at the moment I think I've got a few of the less serious ones , but I can see by having a search as your car gets older there are other things that crop up... Parcel shelf Bung fibre cloths up the holes to push the parcel shelf up Also, it can be the two little plastic covers that sit on top of the parcel shelf Door cards Wiring looms knocking against something The sides of the switch gear box in the arm rests vibrating slightly C pillars plastic trim I've found adjusting/pressing them "a bit more home" helps, dunno if they get loose, or just mine were fitted in the factory "slightly" wrong "Something" in the Middle Air vents "Something" in or around the instrument cluster making a kinda metallic rattling sound at around 3k rpm or rough roads <- very hard to describe Update: looks like it could be something to with the steering column, I found this after digging a bit: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39630&amp;page=2 I "know" there are a lot more to do with serious mechanical stuff... fuel filter noises, the infamous "crickets", exhaust shields, suspension knock, worn ball joint noises, but I'm hoping I'm a looooong way off experiencing those yet!

(still for sale btw 😅)

Personally, I'm going Michelin PS4's at 225/45/17 to test. We'll see, maybe this is a mistake and I'll regret it for sidewall flex... but considering it's upgrading from the Primacies, it's probably unlikely I'll even notice the flex. Edit: Just ordered the tyres. I'll update once fitted and can compare vs the primacies

Here is a brain dump of all I have learned while trying to do this: Firstly, the process takes ages. Unless you have magic tools, it will be incredibly slow, like an hour a plug or more as you get tired or drop things 3/8" kit is well suited. 1/2" ratchets are too large. 1/4" helps for the coil pack bolt and other ancillaries that must be removed. Vortex/through sockets are your friends here too as they increase your options. They might let you get a longer handle on a small job, you're going to want that! A flexible magnet on a stick is absolutely indispensable. Ideally not too magnetic to help with threading the needle. You *will* drop something eventually. Otherwise you need to get the car up on stands so you can poke around the drainage holes or take the undertray off! Otherwise small bits of cloth it towel can be jammed underneath, but I couldn't get full coverage. There is a tonne of thread on the spark plugs so the combo of socket and extension that works initially can be too long to get out once the plug is loose! Nicely worn extensions will be easier to detach than new ones, and a long flat bladed screwdriver might help depending on your stuff. My halfords advanced 3/8" short extension was too long to separate with screwdriver so I had to man up to detach it from the socket with fingertips of one hand. Each spark plug requires slightly different tricks! Driver's side is most accessible and the passenger side is always difficult unless you care to mess with fuel lines or aircon. Taking the battery out gives you more elbow room to come in under the hardlines. I've used a mixture of the following tools while trying to find the easiest method: 1/2" ratchet + 3/8" adaptor plus very short extension in to deep 15mm socket. Then remove the insert to get it all the way out before you run out of length to remove anything. Stabilise the turning with a finger to make the ratchet click 3/8" ratchet + short wobble bar plus deep 15mm socket. Crack it loose with the ratchet, then twiddle with fingers. From certain angles it is possible to grip the extension with thumb AND finger! What a treat.