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Thanks guys. So basically it's a new engine from the factory and they are literally attaching ancillaries to it thankfully. Hopefully picking it up mid next week ! I've attached a picture of her !

In case you missed it

You can unclip the top of the brake light and remove it if you unplug it from its connector in the boot. However, the legs can't be removed without taking out the whole shelf and drilling them off. But you are able to remove the shelf with them in place by bending it. There's a guy on the GT86 Drivers Club Facebook group who was selling a kit to lower the brake light (I assume he's on these forum too) and he made an excellent video showing you how to fit it, which includes detailed instructions for removing the shelf from the car...you just have to be a bit heavy handed and bend it a bit. But it's not going to snap and will return to shape fairly easily. And he shows you the approximate locations of the securing clips. https://youtu.be/aiCh61698pw

Welcome from me, Crystal White BRZ here. I agree, the MY2017 has some nice features with the improved dials with water, oil and battery gauges my favourite. Sent from my LG-G7 using Tapatalk

Need to preface this latest update by apologising for the lack of Pictures! I've been so busy I totally forgot to snap away some pics while i've been working on things! Anyway with that said I have been starting some work on the LS3 which is of course rather exciting. With money the main factor in really moving along with engine related work I wanted to start off by doing a few bits that are free, namely cleaning up the grubby exterior of the engine and starting to disassemble it. Cleaning it up is no rocket science, being that I am planning to strip the engine down in almost it's entirety I decided to go at it in a rather blunt way with simple some oven cleaner and pressure washer. Being that the block and heads are Aluminium there's no real risk of them rusting externally but I largely wanted to get off any oily or loose grime hanging on so I can later paint the block before it gets anywhere near my car and in the process I found a rather alarming issue.. it wouldn't turn over by hand anymore! That brings me on to the first of my latest videos: Now going on from here I went back the next week to obviously work out what on earth was causing the engine to seize at that point in the crank rotation. I wasn't really worried about the engine being totally seized as I've been periodically turning it over and spraying fogging oil in to it to keep everything nice and lubricated but clearly something was causing it to jam up.. Time to tear it down! So that Weekend with the help of my Dad who's been itching to tear in to the engine with me we stripped the heads off the block and found the engine to generally be in a pretty sludgy oily state, it's by no means bad condition simply used and likely without too many frequent oil changes. The oil that was left in the engine has clearly been in there for a while, probably through a few heat cycles, etc etc. If anyone's an Oily science person (technical term) i'm sure they can give their 2 cents as to what they think All that aside however simply taking the heads off the block and lightly wiping off any excess sludge and oil from the top of the pistons didn't free up the engine, so next we whipped off the front timing cover and found nothing particularly stuck or otherwise in the timing change, etc. However when we took off the oil pump.. eureka! the engine was freed up again and could turn over as many times as we wanted, nice and smoothly too i might add! Upon taking the oil pump apart it seems the gears inside were not dry by any means but simple got stuck together or perhaps sliped/jumped a tooth etc, not an issue i'm aware is quite common but perhaps where i've been turning the engine over by hand all this time with no oil in the pump these things happen, it's not the end of the world however as I was always planning to replace it regardless and that gets me on to my plans for the engine... Now plans wise I want to give the engine what I would consider a pretty standard rebuild. I'm not going to be attacking the bores with a bore gauge or the crank journals with a micrometer and subsequently re-boring or grinding them if they don't need it. I will however be checking the head's aren't warped, checking the bearing tolerances (with plastigage albeit, i'm not made of money for the big boy tools!) and re-honing the bores of the block. From my initial inspection everything is worn very well and there are no alarming amounts of scoring that would indicate anything to worry about, everything generally looks in tip top shape just oily.. stained, etc! So with that said here's the list of things i'm planning to do to it: - New Rod bearings (will check clearances with plastigage, don't really have funds for big boy tools) - New Piston Rings (Will gap accordingly) - Hone Piston Bores - Connecting rod ARP Bolts - Leaving Crank & Main caps in place, not removing (this might change, i've had a change of heart and will research further) - New Lifters & Lifter Trays - New Gaskets and Seals throughout ( Everything from head gaskets, sump, valley cover, front & rear cover, etc) - Cam Swap + 3 bolt 58 tooth x4 Cam gear - New Cam Retainer Plate - LS2 timing chain guide + new chain - New timing cover /w front main seal + cam sensor - New Rear cover /w rear main seal - Rear Oil barbell - Hardened Pushrods - Rocker Arm Trunnion bearing upgrade - New Valve Springs - Clean, reuse & re-lap old valves to head - New GM Performance Oil pump + Pickup brace - New LS3 Intake Manifold /w Attachments - ATI superdamper (no pulley on engine when purchased) - New front accessories (none with engine currently) I've posted this to a couple of LS Swap groups and had some pretty good responses and no one jumping at the chance to flame me for being a fool (atleast not in regards to the LS!) so i'm pretty confident that this is a fairly sensible direction to head in. Of course without going the full lenghts of re-boring, crank grinding, measuring with proper tools etc the engine is never going to become some kind of monster race engine but I simply don't have the money, time, etc to do those things nor to be able to pay someone to build the engine for me. These engines are fairly robust ofcourse and as long as don't do anything silly like fit the wrong bearings or try and fit round pistons in oval bores I feel i should be fairly safe. And with that all said it gets me on to my next couple of things... firstly I will ofcourse be utterly soaking this engine top to bottom in degreaser and going over as best I can to clean out any water, oil passages etc. Heck i even bought a little Bench mounted parts washer which is exciting and 25L of degreaser concentrate, so that'll probably last me a lifetime! and further to all that i've already ordered a couple of part that have arrived! What you'll see below is a Texas Speed LS3 Stage 3 NA cam (look it up for the specs or check out my video!) which i'd be pretty conservative in saying should give an additional 50hp to the engine along with their .660 lift dual valve spring kit, hardened push rods, CHE Trunnion bearing replacement (a weak point of LS engines) and the new oem GM high performance oil pump! and the following video to tie it all together!

Hello and welcome from another new member 🙋‍♂️ I had the same paint on a Toyota iQ a few years ago. Lovely colour, although a pain to keep clean like any white car. The blue on the BRZ is a triple coat paint so just as much of a hassle for damage. As above, I wouldn't worry too much. Just drive and enjoy!

Mine is also a pearlescent white 2017. Recently had about 60% of the front bumper painted after minor damage. Normal repair price and match is perfect.

Welcome to the foeun! I think there is a lot of emphasis put on the worst case scenario of how do you match the paint in case of an accident. Accidents are rare and you should not compromise your colour choice for the odd chance of it happening. You look at the car day in and out and must be pleasing. So glad you got the colour you like! Good choice in terms of having the latest model. Through the lifecycle the car has had its revisions and you have now got all of them. Enjoy the ownership! Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Ah reminds me of when I got mine. (Same spec but orange). Welcome to the club. For me I really like the interior updates on the My17.

Interesting. Worth asking what they are getting. Your engine died of oil starvation as galleries got blocked by the over zealously applied sealant. May be pistons , may be bottom end but this is where I have no clue and am guessing. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Definitely looks like they are paying the full cost and very kind of them to do that though I agree it was their recall that was messed up. A new engine is a huge bonus and these engines are very reliable from the factory. Make sure you run it in properly for the first 1000 miles and do an oil change after that. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

sure is mate they call me The Light Meister now on my 3rd set