Leaderboard

Yeah I knew what you meant. I can't even use an extension lead from my house to the car; it's one of those new build estates and my car's in front of my garage, which isn't attached to my house. I can't have a power supply in the garage as it's under a coach house (fortunate, after the idiot who lives there flooded it a couple of weeks ago!) The battery's already dead, I just wanted to turn the alarm off so it doesn't sound whilst the jump starter is connected, seems stupid to have the car doing stuff that uses the charge (sounding the alarm and flashing the indicators) when the battery's already low. You'd think that it would detect the key being in/near the car and stop the alarm activating.

Not sure about the man maths, but the reduce rotating mass route has worked for me. If you're going to reduce rotating mass, you're best off reducing it everywhere you can so you can feel the cumulative effect, rather than just doing pulleys etc which you 're probably not going to notice much. On my car I've got the pulley kit, flywheel, carbon prop and lighter wheels (although oem wheels already light). They're probably all worth a few wheel hp each. The prop is reckoned to be about 5 whp, not a lot but as I say combined with the others, makes a difference. More throttle response, better pickup. If you shorten the final drive as well, then you've got so much more push out of the turns. The standard ratios are too wide for an NA. I remember a Toyota engineer saying the ratios had been tuned for 'environmental performance'!! Doing TSS last year, some of the speeds I was pulling on the straights weren't far behind the forced induction crowd. There's more you can do of course, filter, intake, header, exhaust, power blocks. It's possible to make an NA go quickly but to do it properly might cost you as much as forced induction! Haversack