speedy

Bears more than a passing resemblance to last years championship winning car, but this has got to be a good thing

Great write up, and looks like an awesome bit of kit 😍

Yeah - it is a bit of a game of whackamole from time to time. We get floods of automated traffic trying to abuse parts of the old Wordpress installation which are still kicking around. That in turn consumes resources to the point where the DB server taps out. I add more blocks in the firewall and it stops again for a while. Rob and I are going to kill the remaining bits of Wordpress which are still around to eliminate that problem. We also tried putting Cloudflare in front of the site for some protection and speed improvement, but it doesn't really work with the forums without a lot more work involved, so we've reversed that change. And yeah, i've had mine since before launch, one of the other 100k+ mileage cars

So, didn't take many pictures yesterday while doing this as I needed to get it done and move on to the next DIY job. You will need : Ability to lift the car up in a safe way. (Great pictures here : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111). I used some solid oak to help cushion the car. Nothing but the best... 19mm deep socket or wheel brace to remove the wheel nuts (don't forget the locking wheel nut key..) 14mm spanner 14mm socket and breaker bar 17mm socket Calliper rewind tool Torque wrench (from 25nm to 120nm) So, after making sure you're ready to go, working from front to back : Loosen off the wheel nuts on the front of the car Make sure that the handbrake is full engaged Lift the front end of the car Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Locate the two 14mm bolts which hold the calliper in place. These shouldn't be very tight, and use the spanner to loosen and remove. You can get a socket on the bottom one, but might not be able to get one on the top one because the brake line is in the way. Jiggle the calliper free. You should be able to rest it on the lower arm of the suspension without putting any stress on the brake line. If you were just replacing the pads, you would be able to swap the pads out at this point Use the caliper rewind tool to carefully push the pistons back in. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. Using the 17mm socket and the breaker bar, loosen and remove the two bolts which hold the torque plate/caliper carrier on. There is one at the top and one at the bottom. They will require some force to loosen. Once that is off, you can now remove the disc. If you are lucky, then this will just slide off the hub. If you are not (and I was not) then the disc will require some encouragement to remove. I ended up having to use a large pry bar and a small sledge hammer to tap it free. Be careful here, it's certainly possible to damage the wheel bearings by going at it hard. Replace the disc Replace the torque plate/calliper carrier. The 17mm bolts need to be done to 80nm, and it is awkward to get a long torque wrench on both of them. Put new pads in Slide the calliper back over the pads. I didn't bother replacing the shims on the back of the calliper (some of them wouldn't come off the old pads anyway). If the calliper won't go over the pads you may have to push the pistons further in. Replace the 14mm bolts which hold the calliper in place, these have to be done to 26nm. Check you have tightened everything Replace the wheel.. The rear is the same as the front, save for a couple of differences. The bolts which hold the calliper carrier on are 14mm, not 17mm. They need to be torqued to 66nm, not 80nm. You'll need to chock the car at the front (in both directions), since you can't use the handbrake Make sure the handbrake is off, since I suspect the brake shoes pushing against the disc will make it impossible (or very very hard) to remove the disc without damaging the mechanism. The rear brakes also house the internal drum which is used for the handbrake. I didn't touch this, but it looks very neat. Also, I had brake fluid to hand in case I had to open the bleed nipple on the calliper to get the pistons back in. In the end I didn't have to do that, so I didn't have to bleed the brakes and feed more fluid into the system. After starting the car, the pedal went straight to the floor, but then came straight back up. The brake bite point is now much higher than it was previously (which was a bit surprising at first). Makes me realise how worn the old brakes were. Other full guide which involves bleeding the brakes : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24614

Oh - add me to the list

Hey all - i've finished with the server for this evening. Please post if you're still seeing oddness.

So good to meet some new faces and see some pretty awesome '86s. Also great to catch up with Lauren and Toni (and Mark and Simon). Thanks for organising

See you guys at 1400

In the calendar

glol like shooting fish in a carbon fibre barrel

Nice writeup Lauren - so much love for those wheels!!

Lauren - instead of just copy/paste, use copy/paste and match formatting. It'll just give you the text without the formatting. Can edit it if you like?

Yeah, 70mph Never had a problem with the in-car satnav, works fine for me. FWIW I did get the maps updated once by the dealer.

It's not good service at all. FWIW, I have ordered unusual parts from Toyota garages in the past - having a good parts department makes a world of difference in setting and meeting expectations. In my case I was ordering parts which had to come from Japan, and even within the same dealer chain (two branches of the same owner) one was much, much better than the other. I hope you get some joy with Toyota UK and get it resolved ASAP. Your dealers giving you duff information seems just like rubbing salt in the wound.

So you can hang around with the sailor more often What other reason could you want (Added slightly more sensible reply from TBP) Great fun to drive on the road and on the track Comfortable and very capable mile muncher Great MPG for commuting and very good MPG at 70 on the motorway Cost of ownership pretty low (Tyres can last for 40k, £100 a corner for originals, brakes last a while as well) Loads of options for customisation, bodywork, engines whatever takes your fancy Warranty, warranty, warranty Pretty reliable, Lauren and I have covered over 100k between us. Mine had the idle thing when it was a couple of months old, but ECU update fixed it. Do it. Promise you will not regret it. Special edition will hold it's value better as well

Reviews look promising from what i've read this morning..

Worth a mention - at it's recent service, there was a rattle coming from under the car. Turns out that 2 of the 3 bolts which hold the center of the exhaust in place had vanished, and the third was loose. Standard Toyota exhaust.Might be worth a check.

The orange car finally has some time off, and it went for it's *slightly overdue* service today at Toyota Guildford. I think we're over the busy period for that car, so the accumulation of miles should rapidly drop off. IIRC it's got somewhere over 43k on the clock, and it had been starting to do it's idling thing again. Not anywhere nearly as bad as when it was new, but after idling for a while it would start to hunt. Other than that and the squeaky brakes (which are Carbotech related), no problems with it at all. So, they couldn't make it hunt, which is fine, it doesn't really do it that often, and it's a PITA to try and reproduce in the workshop. They put the shims on the pads, but it still squeaks - which is fine because.. you know.. Carbotech. Then the conversation took an unexpected turn. After I checked that they had put the shims on the Service guy said to me "we took a recording of it", er, ok. "We'll send it to Toyota technical to see if they have any ideas". I double checked that he understood it had aftermarket pads on which are more noisy anyway. He understood. "Toyota technical reckon that they might have a solution to the squeaky brakes, so we'd like to try that for you to make the car as good as possible". I said ok, so we'll see what happens. I strongly suspect that Toyota technical will just say - non-standard pads, you can take a running jump, but I guess it's worth a punt. In other news - he reckons that they have seen & serviced other GT86s which are well >50k and all running fine, so 43k isn't big news

So, brakes update. Turns out that if you put the anti-squeal shims on the pads they are a lot quieter. Who would have thought? They are now a much more sensible level of squeakyness, perhaps normal GT86 squeak with an added dash of Carbotech squeal sometimes. In other news they cleaned and valeted the car. Forgot the spokes on the wheels are actually supposed to be shiny.. and it's much nicer inside now they've cleared the dashboard of all that dust.

Pretty sure this is a copy of how you drove your car home from the dealer? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E71zZW04DFQ

Great write up and pictures, sounds like a really excellent day out :+:

Yeah, my Toyota pads didn't squeal much when the car was new, then they started after a couple of months. Like Lauren says, abusing them on track seems to help keep them quiet. Interesting about another potential ROM for idling controls. Will see if the dealer knows anything about that one (I doubt it, but worth an ask )

On the washers front, I remember reading around the subject before I got the Toyota. I distinctly remember reading something like headlights with an output of over 2000 lumens (so your HID lights) *must* have washers and be self-levelling. But I can't find that now. All I can find is some MOT requirements which say that : (http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_170.htm) Which seems to leave a lot to interpretation. Especially that little 'may' tucked up there in the first sentence.

Yes, was me taking a picture on a flying visit to Southampton on Saturday - behind the Mayflower in the middle of town

So looking forward to seeing this back on the road again Think of the heritage that weekend when that engine came out