Tim Radley

Just get the ohlins ttx 4-way for your folly

That can be mapped out. It's rubbish as stock. Stalled mine several times

Have to say the stock throttle setup is shite. It's like the ecu tries to give you 90% torque in the first 20% of movement of the pedal. It was especially bad on track. Gives the car a sensation of initial surge then flat then just carries on increasing rpm. Almost like a spike of boost that immediately dies off. As soon as I changed the ecu I mapped this out and its now linear and sooooo much better for it. As for the rest of the car. The panels are like papier-mâché. Mine have picked up dents. The paintwork has blistered along the front near the Toyota badge despite only doing 3000 miles. The dash buzzes and vibrates. Engine had a load of casting grit in it from new. Tyres are crap, brakes too on track. Other than that, it's great fun.

I've a friend of a friend who spent £250,000 on some jewelry for a girl he met in a night club. He didn't blink at that and the money is effectively thrown away. I see some girls spend £4000 on fake tits and they are ugly - again a total waste of money. I've another customer who spent £125,000 on a non-running ex-motogp bike just to hang it on his living room wall. People can do what they like with their money. Knowing how many of these guys think, at least half the enjoyment comes from actually building the car. Better to have a year or more of fun creating something that some of the previous examples i've given ;)

Give it time lad it's early in the evening yet

I think there is a lot of weight to be removed ......... from the local pubs Judging by the empty glasses last night i think we need a carbon diet

I've been running mine to 7800rpm for the last 1500 miles. I did uprate the valve springs though when I blueprinted the engine but pistons and rods are stock and it's just fine at that.

643mm front and 646mm rear

Yes with a castor/camber gauge. Two man job, I wish I had a proper machine I actually can't find the stock ride height measurements. If you measure yours from the ground to peak of each wheel arch i'll do the same here in a minute when i get it off the ramp.

I measured my castor last night at this ride height and with the top mount moved back by 4mm it was 6.4 degrees. That was with 2 degrees negative camber

He has short arms like a t-rex and struggles to turn into corners

Special K. Fat women eat that to increase their bowel movements. Haha sorry only jesting

I watched world time attack this morning. Most of the cars were running dry sump. Nobody looked like they had been deep fried, not even the V-Sport GT86 that was running the same sump Nigel and I have bought. The stock sump and oil supply aren't sufficient for my needs nor those of Nigel so we had no choice but to buy a proven system. I'm more worried about 12 bar of oil pressure than it leaking

The AST is great track stuff and the local dealer is 10 miles up the road from Nigel. Had quite a few customers winning races on these in the past. AST owns Moton and only reason i went for the Moton is the bigger piston diameter and hence greater range of adjustment. So i can use it on road or track and not be too harsh for road on those days.

DFV is a great choice as long as you aren't after making it into a proper full-on race shock later on. As it can't be made that. It's a great road and track shock and not loads of confusing adjustment so a very good choice. But we are talking small amounts between best and not so good. When 0.2 seconds gives you 8 places up the grid it's important. Enthusiast not so much

There are two types are damper. Proper race dampers and cheap dampers. You get what you pay for. Pedigree shocks are used in high level racing, quite a few of the names mentioned here are not used in such series and for good reason. Problem you will find with something like a 4-way damper is the range of adjustment is too much and will confuse most people. Add damper pots, logging, have the ability to adjust geometry and spend masses of time you can learn all this - providing you have the aptitude and patience. But if you can't/don't want to then just keep it simple. Damper setup is a subjective thing. What suits me might not suit you but then again it might be perfect. Two drivers on identical lap times might have polar opposite setups. Also a top level driver will need a different setup to a guy doing steady trackday pace as the trackday guy is massively slower and hence not using the same travel nor finding the same forces. The Bilstein is a good shout, try Michael at Stohl racing he can get you the setup used on the VLN cars. Quite a few race 86's running the TTX 2-way now. Very good damper but 6k+vat - 8k+vat for 4-way. If you can wait a short while (maybe this weekend actually) i'll get my Moton's fitted and you can try those. They can be had at a good price and i wanted to be different - normally ends up being a battle though!

As title, i'm after a stock intake manifold and also throttle body please. Tel: 07900552266

Is there a way to turn this off? I hate it and my mobile keeps resorting to it. Hugely annoying

The courier will charge vat and duty. This will either be beforehand or at the door depending on the company.

Yes that's what i keep doing. Just figured there must be a way to stop it defaulting to this one instead of having to scroll each time to the bottom to get rid of the view. Oh well.

Keep them short as i'm going to be the first person to do 200mph in an 86

You ok Nigel? I just heard a load of sirens heading your way. Do you think they can revive your wallet or is it now officially dead?

It's only money. You don't have a crack habit nor do you have a crack habit. So get the wallet out

Drop gears you can change later. Just choose sensible ratios and a final drive to sit in the middle of the min and max speeds you want. That is the simplest way to do it if you aren't sure what you will use it for.

What power are you at in that video Adrian? Also what tyres are you running? Getting grip looks to be a real challenge as it is now!