Tim Radley

It's down to putting the materials through the stresses they will see at high load from an early stage. A fresh block hasn't settled. Or seasoned if you like. So you work it and the structure changes - it settles in for want of a better expression. This takes a period of time/heat cycles. If you run it slowly then the block settles into that environment then all of a sudden the environment changes when you've reached running-in mileage. This is why some new race engines are sent off for cryo treatment as that effectively shortens that process by aligning the crystalline structure of the block from day one. Does that make sense? I had a few too many ciders last night

But i'll add if you are worried in anyway then stick to the book. It won't go bang most likely but also won't make for a powerful engine later on but at least you'll be steady away.

Several reasons:- You are further into your warranty period and at a granny pace so by the time you thrash it they've reduced their exposure You have got used to the power and less likely to crash it so they can't get sued for selling dangerous cars If anything is wrong with the build of the engine or chassis then it's less likely to cause as much damage if you are at 7500rpm or 140mph than 3000 and 60mph Mostly i'd sum that up with 'minimising liability' from the manufacturer The only thing i will say for thrashing them is i've always done it and never had one go bang. If it was because the manufacturer was concerned it would go bang then i'd argue they weren't very confident in their own build quality. Rings half bed in rotating the engine by hand and fully after the first few minutes of running. I've stripped fresh built engines before they've run, after 5 minutes, 20 minutes, 1 hr and observed the differences. After 5 minutes rings look the same as they do at 4 hrs.

It's definitely a mapping issue with the stock map. I've got a Motec ecu on my 86 and have changed the throttle translation. It's massively improved as you said pulling out of junctions and no longer has that gob of torque when you least need it. Come and have a go in it if you like i'm only in Gloucester.

I build maybe 100 engines per year and strip a lot of those on regular intervals so get to observe the wear. My running in procedure consists of 2 heat cycles. Engines that come in that have been "pussied" generally have excess build up of fuel gunk and glazed bores. I've never ever ran an engine in and no idea why manufacturers say to do this when they run them hard on the test bench before they go in the car. My GT86 was on a trackday 3 days after it came out of the showroom and i've pulled it apart twice since. It's still like new inside

Give it death. It'll make more power and last longer. Why remove dbw? Surely you can just remap the throttle to 1:1 if that is what you desire. Personally, i hate the throttle response on the stock car. It has a nasty torque spike almost like it gives yo 60% throttle for 20% initial request. Makes it hard to drive smoothly off the apex on track.

Well done. TSL shows your ideal as a 59.005 and you were only 0.25 off that so good effort. Was it hard to get a clear lap on the Indy circuit? What spec is your car? Results here http://www.tsl-timing.com/file/?f=ATTACK/2015/152570tat.pdf

Typically a 190bhp 1000cc will make about 85ftlb

Actually quite a lot of bikes now run cats. Their combustion chambers are more efficient than cars. Smaller capacity means less emissions though My supersport engines exceeded 240bhp/litre and Rev to 17,000 8 hr rebuilds don't sound too sexy though

His car isn't real world though. I was talking road use hence that comment. For a full on race car with grip 450-500 would be ideal

Valid point. The only reason I did an N/A build was to see what it was like. As soon as the intake manifold is proven i'll be rebuilding it with new internals to take the turbo. As an N/A engine though it's pretty impressive despite the dyno figures. Point to point it is very good and a car you can use all the available power with which results in huge driving satisfaction. Just looking through some data from the car i see one drive that left me with a huge smile on a twisty B road (clearly not the UK I must point out!) which shows average throttle opening 40%, average speed 88.3mph and average rpm 5127 for a 3 minute section. Can't think of any other car i've driven recently that that can be done in. In a car like the 86 i'd say 350bhp and above will be a real handful and slower real world than stock in anything other than a straight line unless some very careful torque management is employed. What I will say is i get out of big power R35's shaking and unexcited but i get out of the 86 with a big smile but still shaking. Awesome little car.

The only people who will pay for proper N/A power are those that have it as their specific rules in a race championship. Otherwise it makes no sense to spend twice as much to get half the gain as any of the cheaper boosted solutions on the market will give.

Nice noise but big money. A turbo build on an 86 revving to 8500rpm would be faster and with a load more torque and sound practically as nice.

The dyno chart proves out what is well known. Light isn't always best in certain areas. Look at any F1 crankshaft and you will find they use heavy metal inserts to increase weight, same for a MotoGP crank. This is done for very good reason. Lightweight parts can lack torque stability. On/off throttle control can be bad. If you want to sit blipping your throttle when parked up then yes lightweight parts can seem better but the reality is the heavy parts will accelerate faster in this scenario that the car ever does when driving. Lot of junk parts in the aftermarket so be careful.

White is by far the best looking colour Unfortunately, black is way way faster.......

Took the engine out to make the design of the new billet intake and baffled sump a whole lot easier. No changes made to the car. About to design a new brake kit but turbo won't got on for a couple of months as i need to prove the new intake out on the NA build first

Mine is back on the road again, let's go cruising

Stunning work Nige, keep it up

Don't junk the abs sensors as they are required for launch and traction control strategies. That is if you want to make use of those of course. Traction is normally just based off wheel speeds. G can be very noisey and GPS is laggy. The workshop manual lists the following CAN ecu's/sensors's:- Main body (network gateway) Combination meter (clocks) ECM TCM Skid control (brake actuator) Steering angle sensor Power steering ecu Air bag ecu PSP (option - auto's i think) Only mention i can find of G is the front airbag assembly has some sort of deceleration measurement that triggers deployment. The problem with pulling canbus devices is you can sometimes cause the bus to crash if dependancies suddenly disappear. I would suggest unplugging them and checking the DTC faults with the ECUTEK lead. If one system crashes another you'll see a DTC for all that are dependant. It's a bit of a drawn out process but safest and most accurate way to look. All the TRC/VSC check procedures reference down from the ABS in the diagnostics. Manual states the following for the Slip light on the dash which flashes up the moment it detects a traction event SLIP - Receives VSC control signal or malfunction signal from brake actuator assembly (skid control ECU) (CAN). It certainly reads that all TRC/VSC systems and ABS are certainly CAN based. The other way around these issues is to fool the CAN signals. It's a shame the manual doesn't give more detail but then again it's really designed for diagnostic on these systems and if they fail it says to replace. What happens with regards to traction events when you turn TRC and VSC off? My car is happy doing proper dounts with these off but i've heard a few people say it doesn't turn off completely.

Wow, busy day there mate. Busy weekend in fact. You excited to go on the first drive? Bet you are knackered.

How many chinese dinners did you have to buy to get enough pots to store all the bits?

Do the stock shafts give up then? If so at what power?

RB kit? Sounds like we need to discuss this over a beer

Swap for mine?

What power is the supercharger rated at?