Church

Width is just one of many tire parameters. Tire compound matters more. And given weather/temps, grip of very grippiest track/slick tires will drop a lot, because you cannot get enough heat in them, and they will get you stranded on ice/snow. So forced induction or not, better work more on driver inputs, not floor everywhere immediately, be more steady with steering/accel/braking. Heck, even tracking in wet changes things a lot. In winter that change to grip reduction and how one should drive is multiplied. At freezing temps and below most tires won't give lot of grip when driven on limit (with exception of non-street legal rally studded tires of stud length 5-10mm on ice). Work on nut behind a wheel. Think more about lines of more grip and of larger radius, think of steadier throttle & brake control, be ready to catch/correct slides at any moment. No wonder tire will solve scarce grip road/weather conditions and will be able to replace driver skill. And never push it if on public roads/not controlled environment. In wet many competitive drivers on track have better times on street tires. On ice tracks, even on best studded but still street legal tires, i'm not that fast, sideways most of time and balancing throttle 10-30% even with stock NA power (so even less needed with extra torque/power of FI). Most other tire choices will make it even worse. Hence my line of thinking to rather work on one's inputs/driving, then on car/tires, when weather dictates so. Though then again, purely from fun perspective, i find lack of grip driving much more fun, it also reduces a lot tire/pad wear and fuel use, and as due lack of grip speeds are lower, imho it's also good for training/learning, as you have more time to think on how you drive and/or correct mistakes.

Well, w/o spare fob (which if all this time laid unused may also have not exactly fresh battery, AFAIK these drain some current all the time to transmit for smart-key access, no? So imho better to keep battery outside spare fob, or even better, keep in glovebox spare battery for main used fob to not search when old close to end) you can drive in some shop along driving route that sells spare batteries (CR1632) and change it to test (use mechanical key to insert in recess and turn to split fob open). Shouldn't cost much.

Well, those cars you compare to, are hardly sporty coupes, where there is bigger incentive to keep size/weight down and (possibly) compromising/sacrificing within reasonable limits comfort/compliance/practicality and alikes. Imho it's not that uncommon to have reduced space, at least in coupes designed as such (leaving out coupes like bmw's of shortened saloon car type, where probably space for driver & front passenger probably is same as in "normal" saloon car it shares platform with). I have to admit, my experience driving in coupes in general is very limited, ancient honda prelude, old bmw coupe, that was too long ago to remember details (and which i never tracked, thus never had to wear helmet), mx-5, from which only later seems closer in class to twin .. and guess what, mx5 was much-much-much worse then twins spacing wise. No headroom at all, legs bent awkwardly and knees hitting steering wheel when heal & toeing. BTW, do you really need seat as far as it goes? Imho then you have very uncommonly long legs then. From what i've been reading in multiple sources, seeing in multiple vids, tought at few places, right pose is - first lower seat as much as possible, then with clutch pedal fully pressed move back seat just so that leg is still slightly bent in knee/not fully resting on seat base, then with tilt point steering wheel centerline in direction of breast, then, with adjusting back of seat and/or telescopic steering wheel adjustment move your back so that you can put wrist on top of steering wheel without leaning/detaching from seat your back/shoulders. Reasoning being that straight hands/legs can push pedals/turn wheel with less force, less precision (due need to use muscles/joints closer to body) and one tires quicker if such (at least in active/performance/sport driving). Yes, i've seen some doing differently, that insist that it's ok for example to lean to almost lying down, steering with one straight hand, not buckling seat belt and alike things, but in all cases they never had been taught how it's right, imho just bunch of bad habbits that are accumulated by decades of driving for sake of .. hmm, comfort? Still, if it's up to my choice, and i had to choose what to sacrifice, i'd probably would move seat more to front so that hands on steering wheel are closer to right distance, even if it means i have to bend legs in knees too much (due too leaned back back of seat, for headroom when wearing helmet).

That sounds like "every driver should be born and grown to same height and body proportions as standard". People are different, manufacturers target majority, everything is compromise. Or like with clothes, no, sellers shouldn't make & sell only XXXL ones to fit anyone including midgets. Another bit is, that seat & wheel fits me just right, and i have even enough headroom .. when not wearing helmet. Given that probably <5% of all the owners will ever have tracked their car at least once and not all of them have body size/proportion to not fit well at best seating pose .. i wouldn't blame toyobaru for "not having it standard". Car works fine for majority of intended customers when used as it's designed. We request from it more then designed/as sold .. then we should be ready to change/mod/pay for that for that specific use. Even cost of that spacer is relative. Compare to other options that provide same relocation of wheel clother. J Luth like ones bring just half of that and cost 2-3 times the spacer. Same for aftermarket wheels with quick disconnect hub .. which in addition to costing a lot also remove stock airbag.

Principle should be like any screw/bolt i guess, no? Turn few times clockwise do bolt in deeper to lower damper/hood on it.

As i've mentioned above, just to test how noise changes without it - plug with "free cap" from glovebox lighter port. I guess, 2 min box if one does first time and has to search a bit where exactly under carpet port in cabin is. No need to machine or buy something. Nothing will be different noise wise from that vs complete sound tube delete. Just more space/tidier under bonnet space and whatever little weight reduction removing few light plastic pieces may bring. BTW, in some builds i've also seen that soundtube port in firewall reused to pass some custom wiring through. For example for custom ecu for engine swaps or other electrical hardware.

As alternative for same purpose in bmw-s there is played back engine noise on car's stereo. Also fake sound and probably a bit overcomplified setup (as played back noise needs to be generated according to detected throttle position), but it's pro that it doesn't increase also road noise passed in. As for modding, i already mentioned set of three interchangeable plastic angled tubes "TRD sound changer", from IIRC one passing most sound, one .. don't recall, more or less then stock, and one compeltely closed off. A bit too expensive for few plastic peaces though. And only loudness is changed, to not that big extent at that. To really change also tone or something like that, most probably it's way more difficult task (for example to change shape/size/volume of resonator or alike). Or one can get what closed off from trd sound changer does with plugging soundtube in cabin off, one with most extra noise from set - with removing with pliers foam insert from inside of stock angled tube for more noise passed.

Looks like intake manifold spacers like that of Crawford BPB, but due simple ripoff copy, sold for cheaper. They not so much add power (and certainly not +19hp claimed), as to move powerband optimisation more to lower rpms. More power/torque down low and mid, less power near redline. They can slightly up overall area under curve (and more so on car with intake/exhaust 100% stock), but probably may need also ecu tune adjustment to take into account them well. Some reading, if interested in: #1 #2 You got most NA gains with catless TD header & ecu tune. You won't gain much from these, imho not worth it.

sound generator, or "sound tube" is that plastic contraption from side of intake, with resonator in mid, and passing to cabin for more noise inside w/o extra loudness outside. If better or not with or without it, simplest to test with it plugged off or unplugged in cabin, as it is subjective thing (eg. with stock exhaust i prefer it still operating, as subjectively car/engine seems duller/more lifeless (even if i know it's placebo impression and engine operates 100% same)). For "free plug" for test purposes one can reuse plug of 2nd cig lighter port in glovebox. If one likes better it plugged off, one can consider of doing sound-tube delete, for very slight weight saving and some cleanup of underbonnet space, by plugging off where sound tube connects to intake and where it goes in cabin.

Binding noise when steering lock to lock often caused by spring skipping at binded for whatever reason strut topmount bearings. Are those ok? Are (if aftermarket coilovers or camberplates) top nut properly tightened?

By changing height on all corners, "level"/rake will be same, but even if not, it won't change handling drastically (especially if not tracking, just daily driving). But camber/toe, that will change too, affects handling more, hence nevertheless worth doing proper alignment afterwards to get those right, as several have already pointed out. And if you will rise car back a bit, suggest to rise back so that drop is within 1"/25mm (vs stock height), so that some less tunable geometry bits, eg. roll center height and such, stay within normal setting. CV bearings will see less wear at more reasonable drop level too. And you will gain more comfort & compliance with more shock travel available.

Hmm, maybe this might be of help (for with stock seats)?

Calipers or pads, dragging (and squealing)? Why not perform brake maintenance job instead of replacement, like lubing sliding pins, replacing seals and such? Also, as pads are designed for specific calipers, and specific calipers often are for different disks, in most cases it is still whole kit to change, not just calipers. And then there is bit, that most "uprated" calipers are uprated in way, that they are of more heat capacity/more track oriented .. but potentially much worse at one issue you have, some pad sticking/dragging/noise for low speed daily driving, with many such track BBK kits have even less design features to reduce noise (eg. no shims for pads and such), and whose pads (even if of same compound) often needing much heavier braking (then seen at normal daily driving on public roads within speed limits) to properly bed pads & rotors. Going for BBK to solve noise issues seems .. wrong.

Well, that j luth's wheel (sold under few other rebrands), and that spacer is about the only way for on twins to move steering wheel closer to driver but still retain stock airbag. If one goes for aftermarket wheel hub and steering wheels for such, there are more alternatives for "deep dish" offset wheels, but those will mean airbag deletion. If anything, i'd rather lean to spacer direction then j luth(atc/k racing/few other brands of same wheels or of same base and different trim), as 2cm imho is insufficient (helps a bit to reach control stalks though w/o extensions), and those steering wheels cost more. But back at the time i got my steering wheel, no spacers were available yet. Moving wheel closer can help a bit with getting pose right, as otherwise one has to choose between no headroom space, or with reclaimed back of seat another too choices, like too moved forward seat and awkward leg bend and hitting wheel when heal & toeing, or too far from steering wheel and too straight hands/less precision and more tiresome steering. Here two threads on spacer for a bit more nfo. 1 2 Sometimes i envy people of shorter height, or of better hands/legs/torso proportions to be able to find right ergonomically pose on everything stock. For me .. i can .. only if not wearing helmet.

Same problem as me. What do you think of getting this 5cm offset steering heel spacer, so that you can reclaim back of seat more to gain headroom for helmet? (only drawback i'm seeing, that light ad wiper stalks will be spaced too far to operate w/o taking hands off wheel, not big issue for track, and one may install stalk extenders such as these) I currently have J-luth steering wheel (2cm offset) but thinking that for best pose i'd need a bit more (still moving seat forward a bit to compensate back reclaiming, when wearing helmet), thus maybe will get spacer mentioned above. Then there are options like removing roof lining, trimming seat padding. And, aftermarket seats. If you want to keep stock safety systems, then not full bucket seats, but something like "street-ish" recaros that also have back adjustable, i guess. One may loose seat heating though. And aftermarket seats is rather expensive option.

Yeah, in most cases squeak from engine bay comes from worn belt. But there might also be less common cases of bearing of some auxiliary device driven by belt (A/C compressor, generator, or at some idler pulley) gone bad. If belt it is, slightly weird that noise propagated after driving. Most often worn/untight belts squeak during cold starts in winter or if got wet on rainy days, due some slipping, and after a while driving, squeak goes away. Also you mentioned that belt was changed few K miles ago? Was it changed to OE one or some cheaper replacement? Was it tightened when changed? From quick googling, maybe these might be of help: -1- -2-

Something like diffuser i'd prefer even before agressive wing, as something hurting drag less. And if upping rear downforce, for balance sake i'd wish to add front splitter for front downforce too. And btw, some extra rear toe-in won't help a bit for more stable rear?

Leeky: but what are your goals on track? Fun/learning, or setting competitive laptimes? For former imho no need for extensive aero, for later, worth also adding several things in addition (or imho even before) to aero parts, and those other things may impair daily usability of car. For example except lot of downforce generating aero parts even before that worth going for much stickier low thread wear slicks, much more track oriented brake setup, very stiff suspension setup with high spring rates, replacing most of bushings to less compliant poly or pillowball ones, do massive weight loss by interior stripping, deleting extra seats, A/C, stereo and alikes, adding rollcage, bucket seat and so on.

Still seems bandaid, not serious aero. Imho worth going all-out with front splitter, real diffusor, gt wing (preferably if for actual use, eg. better laptimes, not just posing on streets with driving at legal speeds where extra downforce doesn't matter) .. or leave stock, not something in between. Without actual real use you won't use pros, but will get cons - you'll pay your own money to rise drag and to hurt fuel economy.

As all OE parts often are overpriced, and spoilers often there are not so much to generate downforce as rather to prevent lift and to not cause lot of drag, i doubt there is much difference, especially warrantying "upgrade". Probably both do a job, but i prefer old one for one simple reason - it's easier to clean snof from car with old one :). AFAIK perrin or drambeenie 2017 risers, neither of those had any real CFD modeling or actual dowforce/drag testing done, so my bet is that it's just visual thing, to make wing-alike restyle spoiler look like aftermarket wing for cheap, by placing it higher.

Sorry, forgot to add links. Retrofitting MY2017 ABS module. That solidsnake11 guy AFAIK has retrofitted also dash. But somehow having trouble to quickly dig up thread about it. EDIT Hmm, after some googling, here is thread of someone else on instrument cluster retrofit.

To retrofit dash of MY2017. For extra gauges and stuff, i'd probably look into torque pro app to display data from OBD dongle on smartphone or tablet.

Lauren: is 4mm min thread legal requirement for both winter and summer tires @UK? Here in LV it's same for winters, but for summer tires 1.6mm is minimum required to pass MOT.

Nothing wrong with using primacies on track either. Yes, maximum speed/maximum cornering grip will be a bit limited a bit, but more then sufficient to get fun and learning car/track.

I'd take just one, and spacesaver one at that, to not rob any boot space and reduce excess stuff i have to bring long way from home till parking, as often bring enough crap along already, like toolboxes, helmet, jack, stands and so on. If i got flat tire mid track day i'd probably put spacesaver on and call it a day. No matter if flat will be front or rear, after all, as all wheels/tires for me are same, i can put from front one to replace punctured rear one and put spacesaver in front. But if it's because of wear or to switch to dedicated track tire set, then i'd rather bring all four, not just two. Maybe less so because of size, more so due tire model/compound/wear grip may noticeably differ and i wouldn't want to change much grip bias more to understeer or to oversteer. To even out wear from existing set if there is square wheel/tire setup, one can always do tire rotation of existing set anyway, and i doubt that wear will "arrive" unexpectedly mid track day, usually it's obvious, if tires with observable wear level will last or not. Whichever you do, always try to put as similar as possible tires in rear, due LSD. More then advised, same wheel, same tire model & sizing and preferably even wear.