Church

It sounds like videoregistrators in UK are must have item.

SC, so more torque .. i'd probably go for a bit uprated clutch. Not going too overboard with choice to not get overly noisy or hard to use one for daily driving though.

Yeah, familiarising car in stock form is good advice. Grippier tires just will mean higher speeds loosing grip and less margin for error and possibly extra expensive mods along to match tire grip. For track brake fluid and more track capable pads as minimum track prep are highly suggested though. Imho stock pads/fluid limits is first one hit on track/HPDE.

It's also very possible, that wear of shocks is similar between teins and ohlins, but simply later, being premium manufacturer, has smaller margins what supposed to be "acceptable wear", and thus advises it's customers of premium products for more frequent rehauling to keep those premium shocks top-notch. Even 20K interval .. actual wear is not so much mileage related imho, as state of roads car is daily driven on. For example even with "long lasting" OE shocks - some may deem their wear/performance as due to change even as soon after 10K miles, while some others say that shocks lasted them well for 150-200K miles. Imho unless overhaul interval is as short as 5-10K miles or even just 1K km as for their sports/rally dampers, i wouldn't be bothered much about this particular 20K number, and wouldn't strike out from choices ohlins just because of that.

Also at KW V3 budget .. i'd probably lean to Ohlins R&T, with 5K/5K spring set. As for biggest possible improvement .. no mod of car will net more then actual seat time at track. Better spend 2-3K on trackdays and fuel/tires/brake pads for those. Even better if with good HPDE instructor, to steepen learning curve. Even more so that process of rising skills & speed on track is fun way to spend free time on it's own, worth paying for :). Also some of aftermarket mods have also cons of compromising daily drivability/comfort.

Yeah, i miss keep-it-simple and mechanical reliability. Pitty overengineered cars being only thing of past, and current new ones following footsteps of discardable gadgets. With longer warranty and lifespan then gadgets, but still nothing of 1M mileage and 20-30y life.

But also there is jack of all trades, master of none. There is optimal valving for different pavement and even different maneuver types, like braking, accelerating, cornering .. and dynamic adjusting allows to get that optimum for each, instead of compromising some middle ground, even if high quality one. As to which nets most .. hence why i mentioned that more input data / experience needed, to evaluate which solution will net more per buck, cheaper shocks with dynamic adjustability, or middle budget shocks of fixed damping, to make educated choice. I have no own experience with both (still driving on stock, only now considering replacing them with bilstein B6), but it would be interesting to find out more nfo for, who knows, maybe potential future choice/purchase.

Deacon: i'm not that convinced. Imho potentially dynamically adjustable suspension done right potential can be very high. No wonder that in many racing classes it's non-legal due unfair advantage. I'd still choose $9K penskes over cheap teins+edfc .. but i'd need much more input data when comparing set with EDFC to mid budget dampers like KW V3/Ohlins or Tein's own SRC, to really decide, which will net better bang for buck.

"Save for"? Aren't Flex Zs already among cheapest bunch with relatively good quality and rich package for that price point? I wouldn't consider other coilovers at that or even lower price point, at most - struts only, like koni yellows or bilstein B6. Imho other coilover alternatives at that budget might be seriously quality compromised, and by then about only sensible the very cheapest option seems buying and retrofitting slightly used shocks from MY2017 twins on early twins. You haven't stated your intended goals, wishes, budget, but by seeing coilovers brought up at all, i wildly guess, it's for lowering car? That imho strikes out most cheapest options that aren't height/dampening adjustable and still have reasonable quality, except maybe lowering springs for use on stock shocks, so i'd consider flex z as very entry cheapest budget point for such.

Oh. do post all details. Like first man in space

+1 to Flex A/Z being more common & safer tried choice.

Better adjustable rear lower control arms from get go. Whiteline bushings for rear are PITA to align and that little saved on purchase may probably be spent on extra time needed for alignment. Also cheapest kind of adjustable aftermarket LCAs are not that expensive. Stamped steel ones like stock like clones of SPC/Whiteline/Eibach cost noticeably less vs aluminum billet ones.

Still, resonators are mostly to remove some specific unpleasant frequencies/change tone, not so much for overall quietening of exhaust, for which i believe muffler (and to some extent cats (and turbo, if installed)) is most responsible part.

Oh it will free up, but only portion of what it might, making price/performance for it unreasonable imho. Also catless header = probable CEL regarding cat readiness checks. Also needs to be disabled in tune.

Until brexit no taxes/vat from purchases from EU shops. Then again, usually in EU shops parts cost that much higher, with that tax/vat included in price. I usually choose where to buy guiding by - if warranty matters to me - local or EU shops, if ware is very heavy (and or big) so that overseas shipping costs will skyrocket - local / EU, in rest of cases - US/JPN and alike shops, wherever i find it via googling (by eg. part number) cheapest (including shipping cost and adding in potential import taxes/pvn costs). Common non EU shops i shop at are ft86speedfactory.com & www.japanparts.com, usually several pars per order, to save on consolidated shipping costs.

GreenSpring: How do you think (as you seen them in person), if Dark Grey (Asphalt 61K for Toyota) or Crystal Black (Raven D4s) might match better plastic bits?

Greenspring: oh, i see that you have those plastic trd under-window garnishes installed. Can you tell of what color/finish they are? I'd like to also install on my GT86 also brz fender garnishes, but not sure which paint code will be closer looks wise to these plastic bits, in which paint prepainted should i get.

BW, if going BBK route, double check wheel clearance (for example by first inquiring from seller/vendor brake fitment template). If without any care just installing them, and only after that finding out that old wheels won't clear for example, it won't be pleasant if one needs asap to get new wheels, or at very least spacers and longer studs, or put back old brakes to make it drivable again. Regarding which BBK choice .. i'd usually check two things - 1) how much/if vendor took any care when designing/assembling specific BBK kit, to keep brake bias close to stock, 2) how common are pad shapes and rotors used in BBK (to broaden available pad choices and to save on track wearables longterm).

Lauren: DS2500 (on stock brakes) worked for me with medium grip tires and short track sessions. But weren't upto job for sessions 20min and up. While they should do ok on street, imho a bit short for long sessions, or tracking on car with forced induction. Of course they were still better then stock pads (with exception of lot of dusting), and would be more capable on BBK, but i wouldn't call them much of track pads imho.

There are many race pads that work at high temps with ease. Problem is, they sacrifice low temp use, having worse friction and much harder to bed at normal daily driving on publiic roads within speed limits. And then one joins ranks of poor chaps with loudly squealing brakes at every traffic light everybody looks at 😕, having underperforming brakes when they aren't heated up, and possibly extra wear of rotors. Best bet would be having two pad sets, for DD and for track, and swap those prior/post track day.

dustboots are those rubberish rings around pistons in calipers, designed to keep dust/dirt/salt out. Simply some of race-ish BBKs don't have them at all, as they are redundant in heavy race use, due brake temps often rising to temps for them to be burnt off anyway.

Lauren: IIRC many track oriented BBKs winter issues are mostly due corrosion, as in many countries to thaw ice, salting roads is common. Usually due 1) lacking dustboots, 2) multipiece two-dissimilar-metal disks. Thus due possible issues caused by corrosion more attention should be spent to state of brakes, and, if needed, more often brake/caliper overhaul/rebuild. At very least i'd pressure wash BBK brakes often, if they are on car all year round. But in general even vendors of track BBKs advise against their use during "salted winters", well, at least if they care more about safe & satisfied customers, then making sale no matter what. Another "issue" might be due BBK coming with more track oriented pads in set as stock, and due better cooling and more thermal capacity harder to get enough heat into them, thus worse cold stops, harder to bed & more noise issues, but that i wouldn't blame on BBK, as it's easily fixable with right pad choice and just matter of initial BBK set orientation for specific use. Of course, not all BBKs are like that. There are also ones with dustboots (that can be burnt off with heavy track use though) and also with single piece rotors. Just bigger/thicker ones.

George: actually stock alignment is not zero camber and zero toe all around. IIRC it was 0 camber and toe front, -1.2 camber and slight toe-in rear. For performance alignment people prefer rising camber front to reduce understeer. Not sure that camber "and back to basically 0" is best.

Yes, twins have stock toe adjustment for both front & rear. There is no camber adjustment stock. In most cases one won't need anything extra but stock toe adjustment capabilities, but yes, there might be some cases of lowering/camber (as adjusting toe to some extent affects camber and vice versa) settings with aftermarket parts, when stock toe adjustment range might be insufficient to get wished toe in alignment settings and warrant purchase of aftermarket adjustable toe arms of usually greater adjustment range.

Strap on big turbo to overboosted, unreliable and not lasting level impresses me way less then this 11.6K rpm redline 356hp -NA- engine build from land down under had .