Church

There were SR20DET builds of 800-1K hp. I see nothing impossible in linked build, as: 1) you understand that it's race build that is not built to last? They can afford to change engine after race or two. Is such mileage acceptable for generic Joe that probably wants car/engine to last at least 10-50K miles? 2) in video description they list among specs of this build very important bit that adresses big deficiency of FA20 - dry sump. There, now you have reliable oiling for high rpm, high boost (and high G-s from high grip of slicks & heavy aero), and probably much higher redline then in medium power "generic/common" forced induction builds.

some senna's velcro magic between 3rd brake light & window maybe?

Then again regarding those wear marks for many appearing within first 10K miles i've seen commented about as relatively much sooner vs what wear people were used to see/get in other cars of much higher mileage. My guess too is that low seating pose + higher side bolsters are culprit, while in other cars with high seats and little of side support there is way less sliding over to sit even without extra care/minding about it. Caveats of low sporty coupe. I doubt toyobaru to change seats for that, probably calling it wear & tear item .. so imho simplest, when it's too late to be careful and use leather care products and wear marks are already there, would be to find some seat covers one likes looks of and be done with it. (eg. from these).

Looks to me that if that matters to you, it needs to be changed in ecu tune, tresholds according to which gear gets calculated. Link #1, Link #2.

Imho currently you are setting gear-switch/redline alarm adjusting (red circle on top of dash with optional beep signalling of redline soon & suggesting to upshift). You don't see gear indicator option in menus from tachometer reading in pic probably because your engine is running. Circle around menus when parked, in accessory mode (single start button press w/o clutch pressed).

Last bit slightly annoying. Gives off impression of badly lagging interface. Of course i know it's because what gear to display is calculated from wheel speed sensors and engine rpms, thus i get why no display with clutch disengaged and why the lag, but still, annoying lag. BTW, due how it calculates, with some final drive/gearing changes gear indicator may get wrong. It could be switched in menus IIRC with engine off, in accessory or full on but w/o engine mode, though my memory may fail me. Of course, better consult manual.

Not in stock setup imho. At least max steering angle lock to lock by a lot decreases max drift angle. Yes, one can slide, but one will have to be way more careful with throttle and countersteering to not reach that small limit one can still countersteer to, so more work/attention required and less flashy. It was much easier in bmw, which even stock had more wider steering angle (probably due not having as wide engine as our boxer ones, thus more clearance for front suspension and wheels).

Hmm. I prefer to rely on insurance/alarm/security guards (later of course in rare cases when parked in guarded parking). No extra inconveniences that way. In very few cases i've noticed someone using such locks, and never heard that they helped someone. Imho such wheel locks are like wheel locking nuts. If someone is set on stealing then he will, but owner will have to suffer inconvenience all the time.

Cold start just one of things to deal with. But in general there are times/occasions/situations/places where i want different sounds from very same car/same speed/load/rpms. Ability to switch between two modes seems making more sense then trying to get most from static design trying to be jack of all trades.

I want both quietness for cold starts for neighbors to not kill me & long cruises to not tire out, and loud oumph when pushing in for short drives or on track. Hence gathering nfo on electric or mechanic actuated cutouts for exhausts, as that seems only ones that can provide both. "until you are up the hill" - still isn't "quiet" in general. And when i want it loud, i want it loud no matter of specific engine load. Hence (in way of said cutouts)

Very probably if TC/SC is used, alignment might be still stock? Then on track most probably outside of front tires will be worn most due OE alignment having front camber 0dg, far from optimal on track (-3dg or more depending on tires) with lot of side-G.

Extra weight hack may add traction in some scenarios .. but it also will increase car mass and inertia .. so that extra traction will be countered by extra side-Gs in turns and extra mass to stop when braking or extra mass to accelerate. May help more on our cars due relatively too wide tires for it's light weight on loose road surfaces. But in end it's win-loose.. So why? Just fit right tires for purpose in first place instead of resorting to hacks, if in need of reasonable traction to rely upon.

People may have different maps bound, even if tuned via ecutek. I guess you referred tunes of some specific but unspecified tuning shop that mostly provides their tune set in somewhat standardized fashion for all clients. Our throttle is drive-by-wire, and stock tune throttle mapping is rather jumpy with unproportionally steep opening to initial pedal travel and little of it in last half/third of pedal travel. Recall reading comments, that it was done to fake impression of more powerful/of bigger displacement engine. Has drawbacks of robbing some fine control at slight/partial throttle, but throttle mapping can be changed by most tuners on request. Recall reading for example on how to change throttle mapping in OFT tunes. Meanwhile regarding winter driving .. while due stock throttle mapping might be harder to use for very fine control of partial throttle, it's still not impossible feat. Just takes more effort/care for that. Also it's just one of driver input types that should be more gentle in winter to maximize grip out of unfit tires. Same can be said about clutchwork, revmatching, braking and steering. Haotic too fast inputs of those can easily brake traction too.

One extra hint: sometimes reducing air pressure in tires may help. For example, from stock 2.4 to 1.8-1.5. It will increase a lot contact patch, also more sideflex with underinflated tires will get more heat into tires. Of course, it's more temporary hack/bandaid to be tried in emergencies (that will also increase tire wear and probability of tire debeading from wheel, reduce ground clearance (bad in deep snow), and increase "snow-planing" over snow-slush), and by no means replacement for right tire choice for weather.

Very possibly those cars overtaking were nothing to do with of what drivetrain layout they were, but simply because they had right tire choice for weather and/or more weight per narrower tire width, thus some extra traction on snow/ice due that too. (our cars are relatively lighter, yet tire width is a bit on wide side vs eg. some 1.5tonn golf on 205 tires). I know that with proper tire choice i can drive even safer and better then some AWD SUVs on summer tires. FWD cars just simplify a bit cases when you are spinning tires, as there is less to work with steering wheel if with wheel spin car isn't tracking straight. Traction still gets lost on FWD, but people can be lazyier and keep pedal floored in straights. AWD helps more, by halving torque per each wheel thus halving chance to loose traction .. but even so, RWD with right tires > AWD with improper ones. Even more so, that when braking and turning layout type can be ignored, and it's more about vehicle mass/inertia and what tire type and size. BTW, for extra traction on RWD car one can use hint of more smoother and gentler driving inputs, so that mass transfer manages to happen in time, adding grip/traction. For example - if you just floor it on snow/ice, car will accelerate very slowly with tires uselessly spinning. If one gradually/slowly increases throttle, some of car mass will transfer to rear, increasing rear driving wheels traction, allowing for even more engine torque transfer to road/accelerating car w/o spinning. When one drifts, often easing on go-pedal and restoring wheel traction will give counterintuitive extra push/surge ahead that can be felt.

They both, UEL included, seem to reuse ace design with making runners longer by reusing overpipe portion. But i guess in similar way to ace they probably even more so need proper ecu tune for good gains, as longtube headers deviate a lot from stock.

"worse performance" maybe in straight line acceleration. I doubt that "worse" in braking or handling.

Oh, it's just sightseeing trip to there .. i was under impression that some of mentioned happened to be locals there

I guess, Iceland is one of countries with real winters too. Nice to see people enjoying RWD cars there too

Vents do work also they lover front aerodynamic lift. Depending on area/placement it's 5-11 degrees cooler temps vs oem hood on ours.

If "Celica revived" will be FWD, then better leave it dead. It's enough that last gen of Celica fscked up all image that was built behind/it stood for. Turbo GT-four or nothing . Or it will be another flop like CRX>bloated gutless hybrid CRZ revival for Honda.

Answer is - no. Despite each and every review on launch praising it, despite "car we've been asking for", if voting with wallet counts, imho people not buying anymore lot of cars like these, instead buying more and more SUVs shows where should manufacturers move to earn money. However we in this forum may dislike that direction, but carmakers are not into this business for charity and we make up minority of all the current car buyers out there :/

I had slept in car once. Verdict was - never again :/ (though as it was in winter, engine kept running). Awful feel in morning. Or i'do like friend did, that chose for his fishing & hunting trips big SUV, whose rear seats could be folded to form completely flat floor. But most probably just paying for room/hotel or sleeping in tent.

My choice would be single battery with total charge (and probably weight) similar to planned two combined. Jump pack .. in my eyes there is drawback, that if it is going to be needed several times, that is main battery had ran flat several times. Batteries don't like to run completely empty, that happening repeatedly may mean they'll degrade / reduce max charge / life.

For car to last long and become such collector item .. it probably asks for car to not be actually trashed on track .. errr .. driven as it was meant to :). Imho more possible scenarios will be just like with other relatively cheap sporty cars. No matter the mileage, unless it's new, there is high chance for crx/200sx/bmw 3rd series/wrx/sti/type r .. and gt86/brz to be driven hard. Not just once in a while slowly cruised to church by old chap or lady