Church

As usual with regular maintenance, mileage or year, "whichever comes first". There are things that wear from driving, there are things that degrade by age. For maintaining proper history of maintenance one needs to change at right dates even if driven very little (as frequently is, in these covid times, at least those, that work now from "home office").

reminds me that original procedure of changing sparkplags involved lifting engine, and due that also was expensive (and also with right tools people managed to DIY change spark plugs without engine lift).

Don't. Just as trying to drive as passenger in rear seat of these cars. Theoretically somewhat possible, but you'll feel bad if trying, quickly. Not as if sleeping is bad in ours because "sporty" or because "coupe", in most cases, wherever one has to sleep in (any) car seat, you'll wake up all stiff/in pain due uncomfortable sleeping pose. I recall one friend of mine that chose one specific SUV for that purpose to be able to sleep in it during some fishing trips, that must have feature for it was for seats to be foldable in way for completely flat floor for not that uncomfortable sleeping. In case if i'd use this car for long trips, i'd probably get sleeping places via booking.com or take normal tent/carpet/sleeping bag with me to sleep outside car.

Why it's not meant to? Isn't it normal operating mode of it, that it with that clunk engages when asked to by A/C climate control and disengages to save fuel when wished temps reached? Obviously louder if listening with hood opened, less from inside car .. which, to keep weight light has little noise insulation on these cars.

Storage space in twins is surprisingly big once rear seats are lowered. Doesn't help if one cannot get too wide stuff through small/narrow opening though like eg. for large tv set and alikes. Still, no problems carrying all four wheels with track tires to track, or skis to mountain and alike..

Hmm, that's dirty? After one "track day" on "supposedly ice track" but with still enough gravel & grass ..

clutch of airconditioning?

I never limited myself to one country shops for car parts. Have bought from JP, USA, UK, DE, and last one even from Canada with shipping via US shipping proxy :). I buy what i need wherever i find it cheapest. Especially because i don't live in UK and local (in LV) carpart offering is scarce and often overpriced. As for diff riser kits .. IIRC most were also solid metal ones, thus probably will also increase NVH. Well, not a problem for me, as i never considered making car worse for sake of arguable looks, and it's better both for comfort and handling wise to actually let suspension do it's job, even more so on cars that don't have much bumpstop free shock travel to begin with. Mine still at stock heigth and even with such there are some kerbs i cannot park over, and on some worse badly plown roads with deep ridges (such as in my yard) i have to enjoy listening scraping ice against buffer underside. Lower even more? Never. Thus i never searched much on lowering related parts, just few bits that remained in memory from few threads on twins related forums. In your place i'd dial back lowering to that of within 1", and stop bothering about extra parts needed to fix issues caused by overlowering. As side bonus, your ride will also become more comfortable and capable of being actually used as driven car over wider road selection

I'd probably think via guiding by what is usually called reasonable lowering for twins, and what is - excessive. Most commonly people say that lowering within 1 inch is former, and advise to add extra parts to fix geometry and other issues, if you lower even more (eg. said roll center correction kit, diff riser and so on).

Neil-h: in general, our cars as stock have front and rear toe adjustment. While it's nice to have camber adjustability, even more so if one wishes non-standard alignment (eg. optimized for track), for no handling artifacts (or abnormal tire wear) getting toe right is more important. Unfortunately while it's cheap to gain camber adjustability for front via camberbolts, for rear, if one wishes camber adjustability, one needs more expensive then plain camberbolts adjustable LCA-s. (there are other ways too, but one - eccentric bushings while are cheaper, are PITA to adjust and work to install them may rise total cost to more then LCA+work, and another - adjustable UCAs are even more expensive then LCAs).

Fitting/mounting is relatively easy. But after that one needs to perform alignment, which in DIY form is major PITA, takes lot of time, and usually makes sense to be done in shop on laser alignment rig.

Wish you to enjoy it's ownership

0W-20 is ok for daily use, especially if there are short drives and winter driving involved. For summer only and heavier track abuse 5W-30 also can be considered, which may retain oil pressure at high rpms better imho. It's mentioned in manual/handbook, that "If SAE 0W-20 oil is not available, SAE 5W-30 oil may be used. However, it should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change". But as to what type of driving what suits better, imho as per above. Then again you worded as "occasional" .. imho then just don't bother with choice and go with 0W-20. I'd care more about brake pad choice and suspension alignment, then engine oil type.

One of FA20 claimed "traits" vs old EJ engines was increased efficiency .. partially gained by shaving any excess material wherever possible .. obviously that adds limitations when you want to boost to higher levels. Otherwise i'd say that FA20 is producing power & torque remarkably well for current stricter and stricter emission requirements. There is reason why most vendors (supercar makers excluded) giving up making high specific output NA engines, including traditionally among best NA 4-cyl engine makers, Honda. Latest gen civic type-r engine in my eyes marked end of NA era most. "If even they gave up"..

Well .. actually when dealership during regular maintenance supposedly did "brake diagnostics", they should have caught it, and do some overhaul job, eg. cleaning some rust, relubing, changing rubber bushings on guides and so on.. So i wouldn't exactly call it "inevitable"

No need for usage video though, there are already several EJECTO SEATO CUZ on youtube guides

From versions displayed it doesn't look standard Touch & Go headunits EUDM & UKDM go with, i might be wrong though.

Track day use taxate brakes much more, enough to warrant use of specialized pads .. which unfortunately suck in DD, as in they don't heat up during normal driving to their designed working temps range, resulting in rather bedded pad material layer from rotors being worn off in few days, and unbedded brakes are often one of reasons for brake squeal (and also more heavy wear of pads & rotors, for unbedded brakes). Thus best bet would be having two brake pads sets, each best for their specific use, and swap them prior/after track day, which is not that hard of a job. Then again for track i'd certainly would think also of high boiling temps brake fluid flush (mostly has no drawbacks for daily use except cost, as they usually cost more and are often more hygroscopic, and by accumulating moisture from air they see their better boiling temps drop sooner, warranting more often (of more expensive) brake fluid changes), and of more track fit suspension alignment for more grip and more even tire wear. Better fit for alignment may need more parts though, to enable dialing extra needed negative camber. At very minimum camberbolts for front. Well, suspension mods aside, more fit for track brakepads & brake fluid should be minimum, to not see brake fade too soon after very short session. As for recommendations, stock brakes do fine job for stopping car as needed, including cold stops, some emergency braking and have working temp range closer to what you see during normal driving/braking amount, thus they are less likely to squeal then eg. some "track pads". Simplest to just replace to new whatever gets worn and not bother about something else, think of worn wearable replacement as that of like refueling fuel, just longer and more expensive but then again also way less frequent. I don't see much difference between rotors for OE brakes, so would get whichever cheapest blank (NOT slotted/drilled) rotor (people imho often live under myth that drilled/slotted are "sportier", "cooler", "better". That might be the case in past, with past brake pad compounds that dissipated lot of gases when heat up, but now imho cons for such overweight pros. And if some mclaren supercar can have blank rotors, why we need to compromise ours ). It may differ depending on where one lives as to which are cheaper. (eg. US crowd often goes by "Centric" rotors, i found brembo rotors cheaper here. There are many other brands that can be used for stock cast iron rotor replacement just fine). Then again, one rotor for me usually "lasts" ~4 pad sets (and rear pads usually last for me twice longer then front pads), so maybe your rotors are not due to replacement yet. As for pads .. for street use imho OE pads are fine, except due dealership markup they are relatively on expensive side. For street use i usually use cheaper Ferodo DS2500, which are kind of hybrid pads, standing somewhere inbetween street and track. Did the job fine for me on street, just maybe dusted a bit more. Others may have own preferences for their street pad choice. But, at beginning, just check brake pad thickness. If there is enough "meat" left on them, maybe it's just thing of rebedding them to have squeal gone, without buying anything.

In my book slotted & drilled rotors are downgrade (in reliability, as they are more susceptible to cracks, and also reduce thermal mass, not proportionally increasing cooling). Also squealing brakes as reason for upgrade? I'm guessing two possibilities. One, if pads still have enough material on them, is to rebed brakes, other, if squeal is simply for too worn pads that worn to level of embedded wear indicator to start touch rotors, that due wear from mileage/accumulated brake use just replace to new pads (rotors usually last longer, though when inspecting pad thickness worth also gauge rotor thickness left at same time). Remember, that many "upgrades" out there are also just more specialized for specific type of use but also compromise some other areas. For example, some aftermarket BBKs or track brake pads, while doing better job for track use, may actually be worse for normal/daily street driving use and eg. actually squeal more.

It steems unwise to pay (a lot) for crappy OE stock satnav updates, when for a fraction of cost one can buy much better satnav apps on smartphone or even use free satnav apps (again better, except most of them requiring online connection). If anything, why not spend that money (IIRC ~150eur) for map updates to spend as partial pay for better aftermarket headunit, that will also enhance audio playback quality.

It may seem not like big gains regarding bhp (IIRC it was something like 240 or 260bhp?), but, what actually is felt by driver, more gains for torque (obviously also filling well torque dip). And mild gains overall do well for not needing doubling or tripling modding budget for accompanying mods, as stock components do sufficiently well. Slight pity that Cossy stopped selling this kit. Some other kits may claim higher gains, but this seemed well thought out compromise for simplicity/reliability.

For what it's worth, i always considered locking lugnuts more of nuisance then actual thief deterrent. They won't protect against thieves that specialize on expensive aftermarket wheel theft and usually have tooling to unbolt most of available locking lugnuts. And i doubt that many thieves will wish to steal OE wheels. With normal lugnuts one can always borrow from someone (in eg. trackday) "normal" wrench, if needed. No need to bring around adapter for them for emergency or use at tire shops (if eg. need to repair puncture arises). Simpler/quicker to find replacement.

Supercharger in most cases, as sitting on intake side, doesn't affect normally exhaust side, where both cats are, unlike turbo, that needs at very least modified headers (where primary stock cat is) to put snail to spool in. So i guess, there shouldn't be much problems with emissions in normal SC build. Though many installing SC may also change exhaust, mostly for sound change i guess. "free flow" might be overstated. Stock or upto 2.5" exhaust piping should be sufficient for rather high power builds. I'd rather invest in strengthened transmission bits, at very least clutch. Alternative gearboxes and adapters for them might be on expensive side. Well, one can always not aim for too high of power, which will reduce load & wear on transmission, to reduce not only budget for engine build, but also lessen need to upgrade many transmission components aswell. Imho that was one of reasons for Cossy to not make their SC kit too powerful. My own choice still stands with staying NA, as it keeps car spendings low. MP4 is much grippier then stock primacies. Hmm, will it be "enough"? Depends on subjective feel/driving style/expectations aswell. But if you wanted to save on tire side .. not sure it's worth it. Relative budget on tires will be small fraction from all the costs in proper & reliable FI build imho (unless you'll go for modest gains route, similar to mentioned Cossworth kit).

There are no best pads in general. There might be many good pads for specific use. Track pads suck for daily driving, street pads soon run into limits on track. Hence won't advise to get any "real" track pads, unless squealing sound at every stoplight & enhanced rotor/pad wear (due almost never getting them upto optimal working temps they are intended to, thus wearing down bedded layer from rotors) & dusting is your thing. Initially i suggest to keep using stock pads you got "for free" till they wear down. I usually for DD use Ferrodo DS2500.

Problem at time was that more fit for the job, PS4S, weren't and aren't available for 17" in EU. Only new tires in 17" of UUHP class are just released bridgestone potenza sports. MPS4S, Conti SC6, GY F1 SS, all start with 18", unless one lives in US. Hence tried MPS4, but due that caveat, despite how i liked them on the street, they didn't fit for for me as "universal/hybrid" tires with 80%DD/20% track duty. Still, their wet grip was top notch and i can easily advise them for most (except those that want limited grip for more playfulness at slow speeds ).