Church

There probably still is bluetooth option?

Many turbo even family cars & SUVs can win it in straight line. But in twin you can outbrake / outturn them, and enjoy better handling/more fun of driving. Don't expect from it what it isn't (fast straight line accelerating car), try it as it is meant to (relatively cheap good handling momentum car with slightly more practicality them mx5) at eg. some twisty road and very probably you won't be dissapointed. Hard to judge how many and to what extent mod them. After all, majority probably run stock, are not in forum and probably are not participating in any meets, while many forum users may mod to some extent theirs. It's hard to draw any statistics from niche of users that are here and try to generalize upon all the possible average owners of these cars. BTW, i suggest first simply to test drive one, if it's what you really want. Nothing will tell you better if twins will be to your liking or not, and if lack of FI pushing into seats may set you off more then good handling in twisties. After all, different people do have different preferences, and there is nothing wrong with liking something else. And own testdrive will tell much better then words of people that may like different things

Still having cats in aftermarket parts, or usage of O2 sensor spacers will only reduce chance for CEL to pop up, or increase mileage between them appearing, but certainly is not sure way to eliminate them. In some cars O2 spacers also may ill-affect fueling strategies by ECU. Hence imho not worth bothering with spacers. Disabling cat readiness checks in tune (alongside tune changes to work better with changed/upgraded exhaust/intake parts) is the way to go.

But it's also possible that it was for spring removal, not bolting in more or out threaded rod. I'm driving LHD, so am too lazy to google out of specific hardships.

This is hydraulic clutch, whose travel should stay somewhat same no matter what clutch wear, with clutch master cylinder piston taking in extra fluid if needed (of course, if it's not overadjusted to have nozzle from fluid tank always closed). You can consider this mod of adjusting clutch pedal travel, few caveats though: 1) IIRC it might be harder to do on RHD due placement/clearance of things in driver footwell (though i may mistaken this hardship with clutch assist spring removal mod), 2) be careful to not take out too much dead travel out of pedal, as by same basic checks some slight clutch drag might be missed, but propagate in slightly harder to engage gears (maybe some of them) maybe at some temps (cold vs warmed up), reverse or 1-2 or 5-6 , increased synchros wear and so on .. in general, i'd not adjust by some vague "slightly below brake pedal" but rather to at least 1-2cm of dead travel till bite point, and would add some extra tests if clutch is not dragging and pedal travel is sufficient, eg. try driving in all of the gears, with clutch disengaged but car in 1st and reverse gears try to redline to 7K, see if car tries to roll a bit, ask someone to report if clutch fluid level changes as you press pedal. 3) i also did "own addition" to this mod - taped red tape over threaded clutch pedal rod and put some markers on two opposite sites. It eases to reference when testing - "clutch/gearbox behaved such and such at 1.x, at 0.75x, at 1.5x, at 2.x turns". 4) my smartphone's flash lying on carpet served well to illuminate where i worked on adjusting

Imho it's worth to PM vendor. That should give him notification, possibly via email. Vendor reps may less frequently check up threads in forum.

It's increased chance of failure. Maybe not big chance probability wise, but in case of failure - major one with engine writeoff. While there can be more and less competent mechs at dealership, i'm sure that toyota will develop & document properly replacement procedure so that even monkeys can do that by simply following step by step manual for that. I don't think that there is much "risk" in letting dealership mechs handle that.

As in how i found? I just had similar difficulties as you, with, when seat was moved further to front, for right hands position when seat back reclaimed back for headroom with helmet, often knees hitting steering wheel, when heal & toe. Started googling/searching around in forums if there are some "spacers" or alike, to extend steering wheel back, just that it happened year or two ago :). Found that no such spacers exist, only options deep-dish steering wheels with quick disconnect hub or if with stock airbag, then only these. Searched around shops options, bookmarked. Finally decided/bought that wheel/paid to retrim (to add red centerline stripe) and installed this summer. Mentioned my experience and observed cons (far placed control stalks & too wide horizontal spokes of wheel) here.

I just bit the bullet and ordered from 86worx shop i linked (IIRC canadian?). IIRC they even had posted here. (mind you, from ones here, only Key!s & J-Luth ones are with offset. Others offer smaller size/different shape (eg. D-shape), shape of grip, materials/finish, but of stock offset). Originally these wheels IIRC are made somewhere in Japan. You of course can search, maybe you'll find some cheaper price+shipping price. And if so, you can also add to search that ATC Sport wheel. J-Luth Black Top Steering Wheel $749.99 Shipping & Handling: $42.55 (to Latvia) Grand Total: $792.54 +don't exactly remember, how much for import charges. I guess, most wheels that retain stock airbag, cost a lot, as it's not just simple metallic plate as base for wheels that use quick disconnect hub, but hard to design/make complex shape metallic base, R&D & making costs of which needs to be recouped.

Not all coilovers use smaller. Yes, many, but that's not cut in stone. I guess, each of coilover makers has their own "parts inventory/bin", they reuse in different their products. If some potential customers at some point may have wished also smaller diameter springs for eg. extra wheel clearance or weight savings, and some past coilovers were designed for that too, it probably makes sense keep using parts designed around specific sizes for future coilovers too, instead of doubling part bin. After all, what matters is spring rate, which can be got same in different diameter springs, and quality, for springs not to sag by time for example. OEMs may target more "good enough" at as cheap as possible costs. Who knows, maybe it's cheaper to make larger diameter spring of same rate (my guess), after all, even 5$ saved on springs used in hundreds of thousands of vehicles will accumulate large savings total. Clearance also not an issue for OE, as only stock wheel/tire clearance at stock alignment needs to be ensured.

Well, all good track-worthy brake fluids absorb water at higher rates. So even if never overheated, probably would replace minimum every two years. Then again, for better fluids not just dry but also wet boiling temps are higher. And wet temps .. see, why i mentioned castrol srf despite it's mad price :). For project mu's i like also how it turns from green to clear if absorbs too much moisture, or brown, if gets too hot.

rbf600 imho is a bit on weak side for one going to track. Better then stock of course, but not that hard to boil it too, doesn't last too long. If one goes to track days, imho worth paying for even better brake fluids (but not pay more, due need to change/drain less). Previous two drains i went with rbf660 but am thinking to switching to endless rf650 or project mu gfour-355, or even to top, - castrol srf. .. but of course for daily driving only, even rbf600 is more then up to job.

Teins A/Z are relatively good for low price and especially given that they have included in set camberplates. KWs can be used with rubber top mounts and have longer travel. Choose your own poison. Imho both are good price/performancy wise. P.S. If you are not just about comfort, but more for performance (track) handling, pay attention also to areas of performance alignment, tires, brake pads & fluid.

I may say that my fingers might be of "musician type", long. Also due steering wheel lesser diameter one needs less angle fingers behind steering wheel to touch them. I have no problems operating stalks with offset wheel, but some people may have shorter fingers and imho that may make operating them less comfortable. P.S. There is reason why i wrote about full combo that should accompany bucketseats. - For people to not blindly buy/install them ignoring potential safety hazzards (that will fail MOT in my country and may not pass some pre-race inspections). From several people tracking heavily or even racing i've heard that one should choose one OR another, never some incomplete mix, from safety measures, as they are designed to work together. For example - stock airbags expect for body motion/position in certain way/place during crash. For that you have both seat adjustability (many bucketseats don't have) for every driver, stock seat sides won't be in way of side airbags, belts are designed to allow for body to move in certain way, be in certain position for airbags to work (instead of maybe even injuring driver), allow without that hard fixing into seat to not get killed due flattened roof during rollover. With bucketseat you almost give up airbags, so you need good multipoint belts, which need for proper mounting points/angles and to prevent submarining at least some bolton harness, but better roll cage, which also protects against from flattened roof in rollover when you are fixed in strong constructed bucket seat, and roll cage needs helmet to not split skull on it. Wearing helmet and having bucket seat with head side protectors will limit side and rear visibility. No airbags - also hans device advisable to protect against neck injuries. About the only extra addition to "stock safety set" i'd use - some CG-lock or childseat belt bracket alike gimmick to fix somewhat stock belt at lower portion & with moving seat back/lock belt/move seat back to tension belt, to fix a bit belt at shoulder part. And if one goes for seat upgrade, one imho should go for some closer to "street" seats recaros, with also reclaiming/adjustable back, instead of "real" "full" bucket seat and multipoint harness, despite such seat/belt having lower weight (due one piece construction and materials), much better side support, and much better fixing in seat, easing handling on track during high side-g curves (i hate bruises on my knees after track days, as i often use knees to keep better in place during high speed cornering/slalom transitions).

Imho it's not about height, but also about body proportions, eg. leg length/body length/hands length and such. After all, for ideal pose one needs to be from pedals with legs still bent some to tire less and be able to push on pedals stronger, and also back of seat needs to be at certain distance, so that steering wheel can be held with bent lengths, again for less tiredness and finer control. I'm not too long, ~ 185cm, and i could manage ideal pose in stock car for daily driving .. but unfortunately that meant if i also was wearing helmet, as on track i do, i needed to compromise for helmet to not touch roof. Be it with too lowered back of seat and too far steering wheel with almost straight hands, or moving seat too close to steering wheel, resulting in too bent legs / knees interfering with steering wheel. Offset/closer to driver steering wheel alleviates that somewhat. Other option - aftermarket bucket seats with low profile mount (and such seats should also be used with rollcage (which in turn mandates helmet usage) and multipoint harnesses and all that combo is not street legal here). Oh, for extra headroom there is also option of trimming seat cushions and slightly revelding base to sit lower, but so far i havent't yet decided on it.

Yes, for camber adjustment in rear you'll need aftermarket control arms. (well, there is option for rear camber in way of eccentric bushings, but it's PITA to adjust with those and they are not that much cheaper). Cheapest LCAs are SPC/Whiteline/Eibach stock-like clones. In front one can get by with camberbolts and/or if coilover mounts are slotted. At least with stock shocks i didn't like NVH change on bad roads with pillowball camberplates, so won't suggest those.

Only options i know which provide something similar but not exactly what you ask for are J-Luth (in different finishes (black top, red top, carbon top) and it's different branded variants, eg. Kei!s, ATC Sport SW02731) steering wheels, that are smaller, 2cm closer to driver, retain stock airbag. I bought J-Luth black top one, but had it retrimmed, to add red center line on top. You can see some of them here. Slight drawbacks - imho light and wipers stalks are a bit too far for best operating for ones with short fingers, and i'd prefer side spokes to be narrower for easer grip around with fingers. Overall i like it though, and due it being smaller diameter i have more space for knees when heal & toeing, and due being closer, i have less compromised seating pose, when i lean seat back further back, to gain headroom, when wearing helmet. Other aftermarket steering wheels retaining stock airbag are of different shapes/finishes/sizes, but IIRC all are not at offset/closer to driver. No "spacers"/"extensions" i know of, that would help relocate steering wheel. Except .. if one is willing to loose stock airbag, as with quick disconnect steering wheel hub there is very wide steering wheel selection, including ones with very deep offset. But only option that retains airbag and is closer to driver, ones mentioned in first sentence of my post.

KW V1 imho might be preferable to eg. Teins. KW should have longer travel. Also imho you don't really need adjustability. More knobs may also mean more ways to set them wrong.

Stock rubber top mounts .. IIRC list of coilovers that can be used with those was of KW/ST, Ohlins and struts like those of Bilstein B6, Koni yellows. KW/ST have slotted lower mount bolt hole, allowing some camber adjustment too. Koni yellows IIRC have larger diameter hole also allowing some play/adjustment. And you can always use camberbolts.

And IIRC just quarter or half turn.

I wouldn't try with pliers. One occasion mentioned in forum about broken key in such way is enough for me to not force it THAT much :). Or at least i'd first try to exhaust all other means i can think of, eg. warming up in some obscure way i'm too lazy to try imagine mad ideas how, or mentioned WD40 or other sprayable deicer/oil. And even then probably wouldn't try pliers :). I'm thinking, if lack of usable handle on key isn't hackish way to limit turning force/torque, lol As i'm not sure, if directions to lock/unlock on RHD are same as on my LHD, i won't suggest those, but i'm sure others here can tell it as from their cars, to simplify finding direction, to which to wiggle key for unlock. BTW, regarding darkness .. smartphones (most now have) can often serve as makeshift pocket light, via switching their led flash on all the time. Charge (guessing for probably at very least 20-30min) can usually be more then sufficient for all rare cases of extra light need in night time. Be it switching flash permanently on via some config option or some freeware app.

WD40 to the rescue?

Find jumping wires or buy in store at some fuel station, find some good chap with car, willing to help, use mechanical key to get in & open bonnet, connect jump wires right, wait 5min for some charging, then start engine. Don't forget to thank chap that helped and worth to keep engine running (or even better - to drive, due higher rpms) for at least half an hour after starting. Ideally one should take battery out and connect somewhere to external charger/battery tender after that, but if you will drive next day too, imho half an hour driving is good minimum for charge to last at least day. Worth noting, that most batteries don't like to see full discharge, and if it battery was insufficient for usual parked time lengths before, it might be slightly even worse now, possibly holding even less max charge now. If such completely dead battery cases are several, it certainly won't do good for battery

Rehosted/edited. Probably misshared on photos.google. They did display to me.

After some drift-rallying on mostly gravel & frozen grassy ground. No wonder that wheels on highway felt slightly "unbalanced" and vibrated a bit. In my defense - wheel weights used in balancing are from natural only eco-materials