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My car has them, simply because i bought it used & it had them fitted .. but i found myself tried them once or twice .. and never used after. When they may come in handy due cold weather, i'm usually wearing warmer outwear anyway, so nothing to gain. I'd rather have heated steering wheel, but well, no such option. As for heated seats .. if i had choice i'd rather have lover price of car and have it without them (they btw also add weight). So not sure that is that must have function to bother. Rather think of .. eg. rear camera install to ease parking. Much more useful feat.

You should take note, that OP author is from the land down under. Imho it's very probable for fuel quality/specific fuel brands availability/climate to differ there from UK. I might be wrong, but IIRC i've seen posts from AU owners that at least ron95 is rather shitty there, but E85 quality/consistency is rather good ..

These cars don't have any more printed manual, but you can download pdf from toyota sites. Several points OE oil specs are covered like there. Also i suggest to dig around or search (using google, by adding site: keyword) on ft86club.com, as biggest english speaking twins related forum, that has many threads discussing many things, and many DIY guides. Personally i use OE engine oil (5.2lr (5.5 qt., 4.6 imp. qt.) w/o filter, 5.4lr (5. qt., 4.8 imp.qt)) and filters changed during regular maintenance intervals at dealership. According manual Toyota Genuine Motor Oil, oil grade: SAE 0W-20 (preferred) and 5W-30 (but should be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at next change interval) API grade SL "Energy-Conserving", SM "Energy-Convserving", SN "Resource-Conserving" or ILSAC multigrade engine oil. If you live in warmer climate, and if car is more of a track toy, then you may consider higher viscosity oil to better keep oil pressure at high loads, eg. running permanently 5W-30. If tracked, imho also better change oil at shorter intervals, and it's worth thinking about adding oil cooling solution, eg. liquid2oil sandwitch or separate air2oil cooling rad. If tracked on very sticky tires and lots of aero, then also something should be done to sump, to lessen oil starvation possibility at high-rpm high-speed high-G long sweepers. OEM gearbox oil: 2.2lr API GL-3 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine MG Gear Oil special II, OEM w. LSD diff oil: 1.15lr API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT. GL-3 is old standard, GL-4 should do fine. If universal oil, then Motul Gear 300 (passed both GL-4 & GL-5) should do for both tranny & diff. Subjectively i got a bit better gear engaging, especially cold 2nd, with Redline MTL GL4 70W80 in gearbox & trans brace (eg. Perrin's or Cusco's). 95 ron is safe to run with no restrictions by manual, but you'll get less power and worse economy .. so imho it makes sense to choose always fill 98. And if you have available E85 ethanol, then one may think of getting E85 tune or flexfuel kit & tune and drive on E85 for power gain. Brake fluid by manual, FMVSS No.116 fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Stock one is very easy overheat on track. Stock pads too. I strongly advise upgrade both prior visiting track. Brake fluids with higher boiling temps may cost more, but one will boil them less/will need to flush them less often, so i see no reason not to go for better stuff initially. Personally i am on Motul RBF660 brake fluid (IIRC 2 bottles might be needed if complete flush, 1 for topping off) and Ferrodo DS2500 (hybrid dual use imho) pads (on mostly daily driven car with rare trackdays thrown in). If one seriously tracks and moves up on stickier tires, worth going for good track pads, but then one will get brake squeeling issues during daily driving (as if driving by legal limits you won't be able to get enough heat in/bed brakes properly, and bedded layer will wear off). Best, if possible, - switching between DD & track pads sets to have best of both according use. Hmm, i'm not familiar with what brakes are fitted on AUDM cars, but i wouldn't want to change brake bias in any way. Doing it wrong may make braking worse & unsafe. Moving bias too much front or too much rear will make one end lock sooner, other still be underbraked, can interfer with working with electronic nannies, can increase braking distance, can make your car spin with no nannies in heavy braking. In short, toyobaru engineers know what they are doing and had way more testing time in different scenarious to not try outsmart them and make brakes worse by skewing bias. As in not freely retrofit brakes, whose calipers "fit" (as in can be mounted) (eg. STI/Evo/Cadillac brembo-s swaps, just to get branding on calipers :/ ), not freely change disks, use same compound pads front-rear, if aftermarket brake kits, then of reputable vendor that tries to keep brake bias close to OE (especially if eg. BBK consists of front only and is meant to work with OE rears). Sometimes it might be worth to change bias, but then one should really know what he is doing. For example - staggered tire setup, or heavy aero on one end only. Have no nfo on AUDM stockers, but stock EUDM brakes (with uprated pads & fluid) work fine for me for 15min track sessions with medium grip tires (eg. stock sized PSS or AD08R), which i find rather good result for stock brakes. If going for stickier tires (eg. 245 RE71 or some hoosiers slicks) and if installed forced induction and would want longer sessions .. i'd probably think of getting BBK instead of fiddling with stockers.

Gains deleting soundtube: quieter cabin, including less road noise passed inside; some dislike "artificialness" of noise it produces; very slight weight gain and cleaner underbonnet space; no (bad) impact on performance (unlike deletion of resonators on intake too). Cons: i prefer to have that extra noise. When tried to plug it off for test sake, even if it was just subjective feel, but car (with stock exhaust) felt more dull and lifeless, slower (even if just by placebo, as performance by dyno tests is same), so i ended up even going opposite way, installed trd soundtube changer (it costs cheap. In case if i want revert car 100% back to stock, decided to get trd's instead of gutting insides of stock angled plastic piece connecting soundtube to cabin) that made soundtube effect even louder; while some may dislike that soundtube "artificial" intake noise, with stock exhaust it's better then nothing, and much much cheaper then aftermarket exhaust; also unlike aftermarket exhaust, car still stays quiet from outside, it's inside cabin noise that is louder, good for keeping good relationships with neighbors yet hear that extra oumph when flooring :). I'd say - worth deleting/plugging off if one has aftermarket catback of better tone and louder, but with 100% stock exhaust imho better leave it. Which is best to you yourself can be easily found out. Just reuse cig-lighter plug cap from glovebox for plugging it off and decide for yourself after some driving, if you want it on or not. No money spent, easy/simply/quickly done, easy to revert. Also can be done temporary, eg. for less tiredness in long trips on autobahns for hours, even while keeping not plugged for generic daily driving. If one prefers by subjective feel during test how car/engine sounds with it plugged off in test drive, then one can go step further and remove soundtube alltogether (as mentioned above, for very slight weight gain and more & cleaner space under bonnet).

TC may trigger sooner, but still it shouldn't light up for longer periods of time even on zenki. If it lights up too quickly, first thing i'd check is tires air pressure, 2nd - alignment. And if steering wheel has been changed to aftermarket (and not centered as stock was) and if ride height has been changed with some means, - i'd reset VSC sensor to zero (via Techstream). But first - check pressure, if it's even in all tires, as it's simplest DIY/for free/fastest at any fuel station with air pumping service. Alignment check will take more money/time.

Most aftermarket units have at least 2x45W amped output. Loudness wise it's possible for OEM headunits to have weaker output. To me stock T&G seems that it can go even louder then i may need .. problem being that at loud volumes it starts to distort sound. And of course, with stock sound deadening those droning doors plastics are not adding up to enjoyment.

Highly doubt it. What may differ - amount of knock, and thus learned fuel trims/degree of retarding timings by ECU. Not pump operating noise. How fuel octane rating may affect pump operating noise? Of course i'd probably wouldn't care about that noise at all. As long as pump does it's job reliably, some extra noises here and there imho not worth bothering.

Sarah B: check what means "upgraded one". JBL? Some custom speaker replacement, eg. to those focals? Headunit replaced? Anything else? Or T&G2 in place of T&G of first generation .. T&G2 IIRC came .. hmm, don't remember exactly .. maybe since MY2015, or maybe since restyle MY2017 ones? If my '99 corolla with stock stereo door speakers with only change being alpine mp3 headunit in place of stock tape player sounded MANY times better then stock twin audio multispeaker setup designed/made 15 years later .. that says something, lol :D. Luckily car makes up for it with much more driving fun.

It's not just headunit that sucks on twins, or rather it's not THE worst part from all that make up result of badly sounding audio. Bad sounding speakers, lack of sound insulation, lack of amp or lack of own power from standalone stock headunit. There are several options to make sound better, and changing headunit might be not the main priority. For basic budget audio enhancement i'd install focal 165toy speakers in doors and switch off sucky rear speakers. Step up - add also some sound insulation (though this can well fit in "base" package). Another step up, add also amp and sub. Another, replace all the other speakers too. If not the amp, then headunit to aftermarket one from leading vendors like sony/alpine/pioneer. Another step up, good well assembled set tailored to our cars (eg. OEM+ one, of amp, dsp wiith soundprofile tailored to headunit used (including stock), speakers upgrade, sub in boot). Another step up, good and expensive upgrade of anything at money-no-object budget at some big well known car audio tuning shop. From all these i'd probably consider 165toy focals+some insulation, and OEM+ offering (it's oem+ audio US firm made set, not toyota optional JBL audio upgrade, which costs as much but sounds worse), or rather just first, as all "free money" goes with higher priority to track use wearables/performance & suspension mods with sucky audio lingering at low priority "nice to fix" but "i don't care enough" :).

Are there any twins trim without LSD? IIRC even cheaper ones had it.

There is nfo on oil used in our cars in manual IIRC. # (OEM gearbox oil: 2.2lr API GL-3 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine MG Gear Oil special II ) # (OEM w. LSD diff oil: 1.15lr API GL-5 SAE 75W-85 or GL-5 SAE 75W-90 | Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT ) GL-3 is some very old standard, so more modern GL-4 of similar viscosity can be used. If you don't wish to find different oil for tranny/diff, Motul 300 Gear Oil 75w90 can work for both, as it passes both API GL-4 & GL-5 standards. You may also need: + Rear Differential Drain Crush Washer Differential drain plug gasket: TOY1215710010 @$1.50 each + Rear Differential Fill Crush Washer Differential fill plug gasket: SU00300122 @$2.30 each + 2 Crush Washers for the transmission Transmission fill/drain plug gasket: SU00303626 @>$11 each Though on these i've seen notes like: "Diff crush washer is also re-usable. Had no issues with my change. The engine crush washer on the other hand is an always replace item." This thread might be of help for DIY. When/if changing gearbox oil worth to remember not under or overfill, as it may change shifting to worse. As it's by oil level to fillhole, double check if car is level during oil change.

I don't want to pay what gtr costs, or how much it costs to insure, and fill 30lr per 100km, and probably not go to track anymore both because of no spare money left to spend on track and that i wouldn't be able to afford totaling it so no pushing/risking for fun anymore. So as result only thing i'd gain straight line acceleration during very short time periods (as speed will quickly reach license loosing numbers) and long list of cons. .. unlike with GT86.

Crawford blocks shouldn't affect economy much imho, if only due subjective feel one may drive in different pattern, eg. change how/when one switches gears and how/when presses accelerator. In controlled environment i'd expect BPB equipped car to show similar fuel mileage. One shouldn't underestimate driving input changes, eg. installing some catback that adds up sound pleasure even if efficiency rises may also mean for driver to wishing more often floor it to hear loud noises more thus resulting in worse economy :), so only some simulated driving scenarious with robotized inputs on some dyno may show real objective difference. Also possible eg. month before installing some part there might be different weather/ambient temps, and different traffic congestion. And many other uncontrollable variables skewing results. So imho comparing mileage in several cases might be moot/placebo thing.

Imho if new cossy kit was £3850+vat as per here if contacting Matt directly, not sure if used for 2k is that much better deal. And it probably makes sense to keep it at mild boost, instead of going for smaller pulley. To save on needed other upgrades like clutch/tranny/forged engine internals, if going for more boost ..

May i suggest something opposite? Pay nothing for more power, instead pay for more trackdays? As for SCs .. shouldn't there be now good deals on cosworth ones selling out theirs? Recall that mentioned in other thread/forum.

On the even more point of views, it's relatively very cheap car, and not everybody have those issues. Increased quality, lessened failure rate .. if it will mean eg. +5k GBP base price, i'm not so sure it's right compromise to go for carmaker.

BTW, if rear speakers are as bad .. i wonder if there is or isn't difference keeping them connected? As in - maybe if they are disconnected, maybe there is more output power left in headunit amp for running main speakers? (wild guess from someone w/o clue in audio)

Scratches from dragging something along. Possible guesses (if wheel hasn't been remounted to change to another, which has been changed back prior selling off, and thus maybe scratches from storage of original wheel) are scratch of some cargo dragged near, against some sharp ring, or against tool to set & fix steering wheel straight when doing alignment. It's hard to tell what exactly may have caused, if you don't know for sure if it wasn't before when you bought it used, if you don't know last time when it wasn't there/last time checked (i might aswell miss to notice that when buying car, as other things might be more important to check or easier to notice (eg. state of engine/suspension/body paint/seat wear), and what happened during that time frame. It doesn't look like wear, but scratch .. from what? Who knows. Given extent of it .. i'd probably wouldn't care. If it buggs you a lot, you may consider come steering wheel cover, or rewrapping it (in this case at same occasion i'd ask to add different color centerline stripe ), or buying some aftermarket wheel (i'd prefer ones that keep stock airbag and which are of smaller diameter).

VSC supposedly is much improved in MY2017 twins. Allowing higher slip angle prior engaging, and intervening in less abrupt manner then in older zenki twins. In my eyes those old bmws have also another pro vs twins, if drifting is considered - wider max steering angle. When driving on ice tracks i found smaller steering angle (probably due wide boxer engine) during countersteer when drifting limiting sometimes.

BTW, i recently also had gearbox overhaul (for some rattle/some gear lashing noise, when car jumped on road defects). By dealership diagnosing some bearings needed to be replaced. Used chance of it getting disassembled to install verus/synchrotech carbon lined synchros & some clutch enhancements (also from verus) like forged clutchfork/pivot & latest toyota's/subaru TOB (SU003-07349 / 30502AA150) Also if ever by chance one needs countershaft bearing that comes only together with gearbox casing ($1300) one can get bearing alone from mazda or nissan.

I'd try adjusting clutch pedal travel/grab point/dead travel first (in case if clutch operation is at fault (for some cars were) and as it's relatively simple job). Just get two wrenches, 12 & 14, move seat back, steering wheel up and lie on floor on back, turning back with 14 screw on clutch engagement sensor switch, adjusting pedal, then readjusting sensor (used for gear indicator & cruise control) to new pedal position. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8040 I'd try both adding dead travel and taking out, by eg. counting turns. Some warnings: - don't look on just simpler checks like rowing through gears when stationary, engagement of 1st & reverse, and if you can start going w/o using accel. I wouldn't look also on clutch pedal height relative to others, only how it does or doesn't it's job. Do short drive and check engagment of all gears, 1-6, eg. i had a bit worse engagement of reverse-1st-2nd at one position, and a bit worse 5th & 6th at another position. Check all. - don't dial out all dead travel. I usually leave some in. It's very easy to miss slight clutch drag, which will add extra wear on synchros, can make engagement of some gears worse especially when cold, and you may need some readjustment with clutch wear by time, and you'll cut quickly through stock flimsy & thin rubber clutch stopper (IIRC SU00301639) as you'll more often will press with extra force clutch pedal to disengage it "for sure", if with no dead travel & clutch bite point right near beginning of travel. - i don't remember exactly, but it might be more PITA for RHD cars.

R-compound? Track slicks? Imho not that good choice for drifting aswell, at least certainly not with stock NA power.

Lauren: my still stock original disks still have enough thickness and not yet due replacement, even while being through stock and currently on 3rd ferodo ds2500 set. Speeds are not that high for me due never using too grippy tires and keeping sessions short below 15min though and 4/5ths or track days on relatively small (&slow) karting tracks. I wonder if it might be with you putting higher loads on yours, eg. more agressive track oriented pads, forced induction, longer track sessions, stickier tires - you had none of these? Still, it's worth by oneself to check real state of current parts, not blindly trust "dealership bill" :). Eg. not all type of cracks mean disk warrants immediate replacement. Uneven braking because of "mythical disk warp" rarely needs to be fixed with new disks, rather at most resurfacing, or just properly bedding to deal with uneven bedded deposits. How thick are current rotors? How much material there really is on current pads?

What is state of current pads/rotors? Rotors often live through 3-5 pads sets, do they really need replacement?

Flex A/Z-s have own camberplates in set. I'd throw in rear LCAs to them to add camber adjustment also to rear. If handling improvement was meant on track, i'd more concentrate on tire choice/alignment/and at least very basic improvements of brakes, eg. better brake pads and brake fluid of higher boiling temps.