Church

Is it really that bad on UK side now? Always thought that you have rather mild weather, because Gulf stream and such. Even here weather starts to turn to more spring-like ..

Lauren: front camberplates NVH wise were THE issue for daily driving over bad roads for me too. But i guess if one goes all the way with replacing all the bushings, then imho it should be possible to feel by anybody. After all, vibration/noise and alike is passed further, to eg. body when all bushings are pillowball, where as if just one, then it might "stop" at next still more compliant bushing. For example LCAs with PB .. now add also solid subframe bushings, and then probably cummulative NVH change will be more noticeable. Or with transmision/diff mounts and one piece axle .. with not all of them done noise increase might be reasonable, but change all of them?

Regarding pillow ball mounts one should be careful. In some classes those might be not allowed and also are not MOT-legal at least in my country. Thus i more then welcome if there is at least choice (for example like for Velox LCAs, that can be ordered with auto-x STX compatible or pillowball mounts) and hate when there isn't, like eg. all aftermarket camberplates being with pillowball only. Less slack is good for handling, but pillowballs also last worse in salty winter environment and reduce compliancy/increase NVH, especially if each and every mount is replaced with those.

Probably my hearing is too bad or i love to go at higher/louder rpm-s or hear other rattles first over issue in this thread When bumpstop was thorn i heard those loud metallic clangs at each full press of clutch and those were annoying & loud enough. This - probably below my treshold to notice

Minion: bushes are more like for set it once, LCAs - more for if one realigns more frequent or does it by himself. I guess, if you thought of adjusting camber on car then it might be 1) if you only daily drive, but have lowered or installed much wider wheels, so to get alignment back to stock or for better wheel/tire non rubbing clearance you may need to adjust alignment once. For this bushes might do aswell; 2) if you do it performance purpose such as for more grip on track or for changed front-rear grip bias, then you may by time change on what alignment you may wish .. or install other suspension parts (eg. coilovers) later on, and thus having to redo alignment .. thus - 'multiple times', and i wouldn't wish to have to deal with PITA of adjusting via bushings, rather have LCAs from beginning. For example i need my summer "track" alignment dialed in spring, and in autumn - "winter alignment", with less camber, thus two alignments per year. Some even more track oriented track junkies may adjust it even more often (eg. depending on tire / depending on track specifics / if track day or racing is in dry or wet). Simpler to pay extra $100-150 for LCAs over bushings initially. If money/budget is that keeps it from, then one can get stock alike Whiteline/SPC/Eibach ones, not more expensive ones like eg. these Voodoo 13.

Whiteline camber bushes also can be used to change camber rear .. but lesser range, longer shop work to install/adjust them (=cost savings on cheaper bushings vs that of LCAs goes down the drain on longer/more expensive work) which also would be similar PITA if needed to readjust later. I'd say to just go for LCAs right away. SPC/Eibach/Whiteline are cheap enough to not skimp on them. Bushings (not whiteline for that particular, but powerflex's) where only way to get needed camber for me for front though (if i wanted to keep camberbolts only, without pillowball camberplates).

SAGA were same as SL + new colors or something else?

Imho white wheels on many car colors look even better then gold/bronze .. if not insane PITA that is to keep white painted wheels clean :/

There was time when i also started to think - "not enough", but that was prior i actually started going to trackdays, and now think that it's perfectly "just right". More power - just harder to fine-control, pay more for purchase/installation/maintenance/insurance/taxes, pay more for other mods that should accompany power increase (better brakes/grippier tires/better clutch & tranny), power that is there stock lets go fast enough and have fun. Though of course from people owning these cars per each track enthusiast there are at least 10 or more that just daily drive & never been to track, never really pushed/explored limits in curves and all they know - in straight line w/o turbo it accelerates slower and doesn't push into seats, so maybe this is what forms more common view about 'not enough'.

If half way, then yes, it might be clutch spring, not bumpstop

Clutch spring might be if there is some squeek/slight noise during movement of pedal, no? But if my eyes/ears didn't fool me, it seemed you have that one metallic click at end of pedal press, when you pressed it fully? Then imho it's rubber bumpstop, which is thorn, so "leg" of metallic clutch pedal hits metallic base of pedal assembly. If one has done clutch pedal travel adjustment mod with lessening dead clutch pedal travel before bite point, then there is increased possibility of stock rubber bumpstop to be cut through. But even if everything with clutch is stock, that bumpstop is too thin and is easy to cut through if one often fully presses clutch, as pedal's "leg" is relatively thin metal plate that presses with edge against narrow area on bumpstop.

IIRC it might be SU00301639 (in diagram 31301S)

Most probable reason - small/flimsy/thin clutch pedal rubber bumpstop (looking like 1-2mm squeare rubber plate with leg to push into hole in base of clutch pedal, where it's leg hits it) got worn/cut through. You can try finding PN for it or think of more durable/thicker pedal stopper (but if much thicker, possible clutch pedal travel adjustment might be needed for clutch to not drag)

MartinT: if there is no snow or temps under freezing temps expected this spring in forecast, i'd leave buying winter or all season tires to autumn. Half a year less to think where to store them and possibly half a year newer manufactured tires

If it won't move with no throttle/idle, it won't move with proposed ECUtek ''Mode 4: snow' tune "with even less torque and slow responses", that was what i poked at. If grip is sufficient to drive but with less pushing, it makes little sense to move driver inputs with car controls to ecu tune, except paying more for tuner shop for them to make something with no real use. "Safe" tune if one happens to have available only bad quality fuel may see it's real life use, but some hypothetical tune with 75% of performance artificially taken out/limited and/or some very weird throttle mapping? As for throttle mapping, it's often stock tune, that is worse in fine-control. I guess, it might be decision/hack of toyobaru to artificially make our little NA engines feel like if bigger engines, by mapping throttle in fashion for throttle opening much more then if it had been mapped linearly in first 1/3rd of gas pedal travel, robbing a bit fine control in low/mid rpms. But so do many tuners remap throttle to more linear one (at very least if asked, if they not do so by default already), so it's often so that rather aftermarket tunes are easier to fine-control engine power, then stock map. Providing more power/torque mid & top, but also finer control at idle-low rpms.

Zero friction? Not getting further without a tow? If you posted that started thinking about winter tires, then very probably you are on stock primacies or other summer tires? THAT is a reason for zero friction in cold. So THAT is what should be fixed, not special ECU tune invented with weird limits to halve or more performance or do something alike. ECU tune may change engine output for acceleration (though why not be much gentler on gas instead or start at lower rpms/in 2nd gear?) but won't do a thing to braking or cornering grip.

Why not use snow mode implemented with being more careful with driver inputs? :/ One can limit/retard performance with ECU tune, but FFS why if one can simply not floor accel in winter all the time?

Also stock nav is ovepriced POS not worth getting even for used prices. Better think of good cellphone mount and use it for navigation purposes. You'll pay more then ten times less even for commercial apps, you'll get easier to use user interface and better features.

Lauren: but even original 48Ah one costs money. And for many it lasted less then 3 years. Imho it would be cheaper to toyobaru to install 65Ah one right from beginning, then let's say, after just 1.5 years change to new one for free. It would also remove one of issues that might be damaging brand image.

misposted. (where is delete? :/ )

I'd probably would do some mix. A bit wider wheel & tire, a bit lesser positive offset, and wouldn't go for completely flush looks, as there are some slight ill-effects too, such as too wide tire might be too grippy and loose some of stock playfulness at legal speeds/more tramlining, centerline moved too much out with small offsets/spacers will make heavier steering (changed scrub radius) and extra load/wear on wheel bearings. Also for sake of simplicity of getting damaged wheel replacement would get all four wheels same, even if for flushness one may need more spacing out in front. But if flushness really is important to one, check Flush Wheel Offset Chart in first post here. Table lists it for different wheel widths and at stock and 1" lowered heights. It might be a bit different though if one for sake of better grip dials in non-standard alignment with more negative camber though, where wheel top will get more tucked in, lower side more spaced out, also different tires of same sizing might have different real thread width.

IIRC that tucked-in stock wheel placement is due EU own regulations, for car to be sold in some countries here it needs to be able to fit snow chains (no matter how little sense it makes for ours, as in places with deep unplown snow or deep mud where chains over normal winter tires might be needed, low ground clearance will prevent driving anyway. Well, but then again Toyota lists among official options for ours also towing hook .. and puts in manual that this car is not for towing ). So if car was made/designed for sale world-wide .. hence the tucked in stock wheels sizing. But it's norm, most cars are. And i don't find it THAT big of an issue worth caring much about.

x7.5", so 1/4"/6.35mm wider to each side vs (if same offset) x7" stock wheel + 6mm lesser centerline offset then stock's offset. Wheel will be to outside in total by 12.35mm, and less then mm closer to inside.

BTW, whichever one uses for lowering, be it springs or coilovers, suggest keeping lowering reasonable, within 1", not not fsck up suspension geometry. Otherwise one may need to buy more parts to fix illeffects and even so many things can be compromised on already rather low at stock car.

IIIRC on these cars THE main & most common source of rattles usually comes from rear seat U latches. Try eg. covering them few rounds with tape (not TOO much, sufficient so that teethed locking gear can still lock on), may work for a while (after few opening-closing gear will cut through tape though). And double check if it really is closed/latched.