Church

Well, actually our stock suspension is with coilovers. Coils over dampers. Of course, many think with term coilovers something specified narrower, aftermarket & adjustable. As for what to choose .. i suggest better defining what are your goals/what you wish to change and state your budget.

MY2015 IIRC also may have some engine internals strenghtened. BTW, worth double check, which-year-model car actually is, as first registration date often is not which year model it is/when it's manufactured. For example my is 2014-03, but still has expensive aircon gas which was changed to normal one in later 2014 ones.

Pitty in such situation there is more to dig/plow for ours, even if on proper tires. Simply because of low placed & bulldozer shaped front bumper, that isn't shaped to go above/push snow below, but rather shape that gathers snow before it/digs in. As result in deep snow it's going few meters until there is so much snow in front to not be able to move, and back to shovel.

JRot: offtopic: center of lower bumper is blacked out vinyl wrapped/painted or with trd extra garnish plastic piece? back to topic I'm slightly interested in these aswell (for LHD though). Simply - they cost way way less then oem HID+led light. It's easy to damage something in front if one abuses car on track. Paying mega pile of money for original lights is a bit on expensive side. So not for modding/looks sake, but simply due cheaper price, am exploring what are possible aftermarket replacement options ..

From tips .. even if you reuse stock wheels, for winter tires i suggest getting narrower size, eg. 205/50 ir 205/55(if also a bit more ground clearance is wished, and not caring much about slight gearing change and a bit more sidewall flex). With narrower tire there is more mass per (smaller) contact patch area, so tire/(relatively light) car is less susceptible to aquaplane in snow slush, easier to push through tire to something grippier or for tire thread to hook into road surface/ice uneventies. I'd use stock or wider tires only if one almost never sees snow/ice.

+1 to our cars looking rather good stock. They look even way more expensive then they are. Many mods also possible to overdo and have .. arguable result. I'd rather spend budget on actual driving/wearables/trackday to enjoy driving it, then on visual mods. Or at least get mods that serve also functional purpose. For example - shift knob .. then at least one that is heavy. Steering wheel - to one that is more comfortable to use. Wheels - that are also lighter then stock. Hood - that also has extra fins for cooling. Relocate to top rear window brake light to enhance visibility. Armrest for more comfortable rest of elbow in long drives. Mudflaps, to protect paint and reduce need to wash it. Good allweather floormats to ease keeping dirt/water out/clean them. Good cellphone mount to ease use it for navigation and not clutter interior looks with unhidden wires. And so on along the lines ..

Wheels spaced out increase load on bearings/decrease life though, be it via low offset or via spacers, so technically they also had all rights to deny that work as warranty one.

But "releasing", or rather "relisting old product as also compatible with" looks half-arsed approach to me instead of releasing proper complete set. Like i also wrote, it may work with other vendor rears aswell, but pushing need to select somewhat similar mu rear pads onto customer seems wrong, and lessens wish to choose them over vendors that released complete sets. Nothing to do with what use type they usually design/release products for. BTW, in my eyes proper really "for race" no compromise vendor is something like project mu racing (not to be mistaken with "normal" project mu). of course, their pads cost fortune (like set may cost 1.5K), but i've heard they also deliver more then cheap "track/race pads", like lasting longer, wearing rotors less, being more consistent across wider temp range and so on ..

Lauren: PS4 were available in stock size since long ago. PS4S, which i guess is meant as true PSS successor, - only recently 17" aswell, being only 19" & 20" at initial launch. Michelin.co.uk lists so far only 19/20/21. US-side tirerack.com now also 17" & 18".

BTW, it seems there should be 17" PS4S available now too. At very least on other side of pond. But probably worth checking local tire shops too.

While some combos might perform acceptably well, i'd too prefer matching set on all corners, and seeing some maker having pads only for one end would be sign more of "they don't care". So GT86/BRZ has fronts as WRX, and rears as Legacy GT and we have pads already made in WRX shape in our line up? Fine, mark first ones as also compatible with GT86 and don't spend a dime on making matching rears, let customers by themselves search somewhat similar Mu pads to match. - That doesn't rise trust in PFC in my eyes, and given many alternatives existing for street/hybrid/track use available as full sets, i'd rather lean on getting theirs. Brakes is one of most important subsystem in car. PFC may work for some uses well, it may work reasonably well matched with some other pads .. but that attitude is why i'd rather get something else.

When i looked up on youtube comparison videos, sony's fdr-x3000 looked a bit better with it's optical image stabilization. Though of course even digital one of GP5 is a bit better then that of 3 or 4.

I wonder if it's TC or e-diff? If former, using vsc or long press TC may do, if later (it's not about wheel hop completely in air, or is?), maybe only pedal-dance.

Deacon: can you tell, how higher position impacts daily driving/cruising? I'm sure with extender it's quicker to move hand from wheel to knob and back .. but stock knob position, is just right by, if hand is on armrest. So is probably harder to reach reverse lockout. And also, i guess, due longer lever, throws are longer too?

Are you sure on warranty? When i had condensation, i thought it's simplest to just clean/dry it & replace gasket .. but dealership replaced both light & gasket for me when mine still had warranty.

I'd be willing only to reuse some space in portion of foam around spare wheel. Wouldn't want to loose nor space saver, nor part of (already scarce) trunk space with sub box like in OEM+. But then again i'm no audiophile and most probably Focals will be sufficient to get audio above acceptable for me. Everything stock - isn't. Overall sound is worse then it was in 15+ y.o. corolla with just two speakers, after i replaced cassette player w. cheap alpine mp3 unit. Imho toyota/subaru also could have reduce count of speakers/wiring for that, instead going for lesser count but of more quality ones.

There are three "bottlenecks" in sound quality in ours. - mediocre HU. Imho any top tier vendor HU will sound better. - bad quality speakers. Cheapest popular upgrade is Focal IS165TOY. OEM optional JBL sound upgrade imho is a bit too costly to what it brings. If money is no object, i'd rather lean to OEM+ Reference 500Q aftermarket set that is tailored to our cars. - due sportiness and cheap budget class of our cars, sound insulation is also lacking. It's compromise though, as going overboard with it to bring it upto upmarket car level will also add weight. But if speakers will get upgraded anyway, i guess some reasonable soundmat install in doors won't hurt. Among points imho worth to consider: rearwards visibility in these cars is rather bad. I find rear camera helping on that issue a lot, for tight space parallel park. So if changing headunit, i'd also explore if rear camera (and which) can be used with it. I guess, most camera kits out there are made to work with stock headunit. Aftermarket headunits (both top tier vendor ones & chinese android units) often have their own optional camera modules. If budget is tight, i'd probably just go for FOCAL IS165TOY speaker upgrade. There should be thread about it in this forum.

I'd agree to what Lowe says. Youtube vids usually are very bad at giving way of objective comparison & choice of exhaust sound. And not just by tone, even loudness-wise. Most vids are taken with widely varying recording equipment/recording settings & level/recording methodics AND then there goes on what & how sound is played back. Yes, many aftermarket catbacks sound good and add up to aural pleasure vs stock, so there is high chance for them to be good in real life too .. but to objectively compare them among themselves by those vids to get one that may sound best from all the others? Or even their loudness? Put mic at much closer distance and Q300 or stock, especially during cold start, will sound louder then straight track pipe. Turn recording level differently - same result, even if listened on same equipment. BEST way to judge both tone and loudness is to actually hear them in person, by eg. going to some clubmeet or trackday and hear setups of others by own ears.

BTW, regarding catback upgrades. Take not that 1) there is too little performance gains to be had from catback, mostly it's for sound, for performance you need better catless header + tune; 2) catless header further rises loudness, and some catbacks that may have sounded ok with stock header, might get unbearably loud together with catless header.

"Best" is very subjective, and you did good mentioning loudness, as that is subjective thing too. BTW, if you'll tune ECU, then it's possible to ask tuner to tune out "cold-starts", which are usually the ones, that make loudness issues most, especially on louder aftermarket exhausts, even if noise level on warmed up engine is bearable. Color .. also is subjective thing .. i happen to like hot-lava orange of mine best, with black coming second. One may consider color choice though also taking into account what (limited) color choice is for TRD prepainted parts. If i'd get BRZ .. i'd think of world rally blue & gold painted wheels though

IIRC pproblem of clearance is both for Velox/Verus & APR. I wonder if Touge Factory may work then, with inlets not behind foglamp intakes, but behind main rad bumperhole. There is also option of Porsche plastic wings that can be ziptied to control arm. Less effective, directs air to rotor from one side, instead of properly blowing inside, but saving grace is these porsche "ducts" are very cheap.

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I wonder if it's not case of RHD vs LHD part?

I'm not sure, but i wonder if only temps are checked (and alarmed, if overheat), not coolant level (which ought to be checked by oneself), no?

BTW, even stock vertical angle of vision is imho a bit narrower then in average other cars. I more often find top of traffic lights below field of vision at crossroads. Not allowing to reduce it even more .. i see some sense in it. (bad visibility through rear window and rear side quarter windows aside, which probably is rather common sacrifice for looks/style of high beltline/high rear design lines in modern cars).