Church

I find normal sunglasses better fulfilling function of those sunstrips. Prefer to not limit in any way visibility when there is no direct low sunlight in car, and sunglasses can be used outside car too.

Dependent from oil viscosity and rpms. There might be some pressure loss with oil cooler rads installed though. Unfortunately don't have numbers at hand and too lazy to websearch myself Near redline/at high rpms pressure starts falling off (btw, one of limits to rise of max rpms too high, not just something like cams/camsprings, as at some rpm point pressure gets insufficient, thus oil starvation, thus increased wear/failure chance). IIRC oil of higher viscosity can add pressure to some extent (at expense of worse working at cold temps IIRC).

Lauren: and how temps are affected if forced induction is installed?

sam534: btw, what i myself am considering from future mods, is jackson racing kit with main rad that has integrated oil rad. Not sure if it can be used ok on RHD. I know it has some clearance issues with MY2017 revised airbox. Still liking idea of more effective heat dissipation vs stacked rads with oil rad in front of main, more compactness, and that it not just cools oil, it can also heat it up sooner from water (sooner heating up) running near IIRC. Expensive kit though

Apart from how hot oil can get, there is also such thing as recommended working temps. If too cold, imho oil might also not work properly. So i guess it's worth to get something with thermostat, which will decide if oil needs cooled more or not. I'd think that 110C might be normal temps, oil doesn't need to be cooler then eg. water boiling temps. But if redlined/used heavy on track,, or sometimes even if idling in standstill traffic on some hot summer day, oil may get too hot, and not just reducing pressure, but also it can degrade much quicker overheated, requiring change more often. Car can be tracked everything stock, but i'd change oil then very often, eg. every few thousand track miles, not doing it just when it's due scheduled regular maintenance. Some forester style L2O coolers might be sufficient for light track use, but if one tracks often, i guess normal external oil A2O rad might be mod worth to consider, to ensure proper oiling and longetivity of engine. P.S. Regarding oiling our cars may have some other shortcomings too, eg. if running on high-grip tires and or lot of aero downforce getting oil starving in long high G turns at least without some sump mods to increase oil capacity or some means to better direct where it goes when with side-Gs.

Stock rather deep offset is as it is mostly to be able to claim that you can fit snow chains around wheels (IIRC requirement for car to be sold in some countries. I doubt someone may ever use such feature in this car (as by when normal winter tires are not sufficient car would be unusable anyway due low ground clearance), but dura lex, sed lex). There is lot space to go till rubbing to fender. But there are also some illeffects if one goes too overboard with sticking wheels out. For example due scrub radius change steering will get heavier and wheels more tending to follow road grooves, and there will be more load/wear on wheel bearings, as wheel will press on them "with longer lever arm". But something like x8 ET35 vs stock x7 ET48 wheels should be imho safe enough, and shouldn't rub on fender or suspension arms. IIRC to get stock wheels "flush", one needed 20-25mm spacers, so x8" ET35 (12.7mm+13mm out) sounds close to that.

BTW, that brake sector above throttle in your overlays .. is brake position also reported by obd on twins?

knightryder: still, not just for youtube vids, i liked overlay .. of another cam on pedals. Like here in this vid. Most of a time i drive "by feel" doing inputs from what i see, how i feel car at the moment and so on, reacting with inputs at present, and forgetting right away what's behind, as result it's hard to remember what & how i did few laps before in some curve. So if i want to analyze later on what & when & how i did, and how it did affected speed/laptimes, and what can be done to improve, it's worth to see right away all the inputs, like steering/gear/pedalwork, overlayed with track video. Video with overlays like i linked above seems best at what i'd wish for.

Hmm, i'd rather like more practicality/readability, even if that would mean less eye-candy/similarity to stock gauges. For example instead of large speedo just digital readout of larger size and of easier to see colors (especially in bright daylight), bars with % for accel & brake so to easier to see when/how much one presses pedals (if it's to be overlayed over track video), temps in multi-colored-sector bars so to easier to notice with glance, when they get too high, G-graph as is, but without like-stock-dash round area around, that would just use-up screen estate for no use, and so on ..

How suggested wheels by me look, you can check that thread i linked to in my first post. There should be pics in that thread too. If non-flush looks matter a lot, then higher offset wheels can be used with spacers, like eg. here. I wouldn't bother though about flushness.

Latitude is just part of picture. Rather how far is sea / gulf stream from you i guess. There are such things as seaside & continental (hotter summers and colder winters) climates after all, as sea acts like some heat reservoir, evening out temps. As to what temps and ice/snow you see in winter, you yourself know best. I just noted some relation to temps and frequency of seeing snow/ice as things affecting choice between allseasons and winter tires. Looks is purely subjective thing. There are some that will swear by 9-10" wide wheels that MUST be FLUSH(!), and some that say that this is one of few cars that look good or better with smaller wheels like 15 or 16". But as winter often comes in hand with much worsened grip, road state often gets worse, i would count those 3 winter months as ones where imho worth to ease up some bling beliefs for sake of more safety & less spendings.

It would be better, if you would also describe average winter weather there (eg. avg. winter day & night temps, amount of snow/ice you see), so that ones not living in central Scotland can share their experiences/give advises. If average winter day temps are 10C, and there is little snow or ice seen, i'd get good allseasons and use of stock size & on stock wheels. For example - michelin pilot A/S 3. Stock width, not "modding" wide as possible ones, for reasons below mentioned for winter tires. On stock wheels - as you already have them, and those will protect from abuse your OZ wheels. Also very probably your ultraleggeras are wider then stock, so sensible width winter tires on your OZ wheels might be overstretched unlike on 7" wide stockers. If average winter day temps are 5C or below, or often driving in night when temps drop, or sometimes go to friends/relatives that live in more winter-ish places, or have as one of hobbies skiing, i'd probably get proper winter tires. Eg. nokian hakkapeliita R2 / blizzak WS80 / michelin xice3. Don't know what average winter weather is there in Scotland (but nearby UK IIRC had rather warm-ish climate?), don't know if studded are legal there, so didn't suggest studded ones. For wheel choice - aero has still stock brakes, so fitment/clearance should be similar. I'd get used bug-eyed impreza 16x7 +53 wheels. Used they are very cheap (should cost on par with steelies), plentiful, clear our brakes, strong enough for winter bad road abuse. Only drawback - they look tucked in. But imho practical reasons should take priority over looks in winter. I suggest ignoring "not look silly" bit. Getting stuck in snow/ice, overpaying for tires, or having uber aftermarket blingy rims damaged in winter seems more silly to me, then valuing function over form. As to why 16"? - higher sidewall offers more comfort and rim protection on bad roads, tires are cheaper (R17 set of nokian hakkapelitas 8 costed here 150eur more then same for R16). Tire size - narrower (for less aqua/snowslush-planing. Also our cars are RWD & relatively light, so even more so would benefit from narrower tires imho) and of stock diameter or a bit more (lower acceleration in winter due gearing change matters less, but slight extra clearance won't hurt to not scrape underside or not dig in deep snow, even more so if you have aero kit (which IIRC reduced ground clearance)). So for example 205/55R16. Apart from more fit for winter tires i usually also put at end of autumn my "winter set" in car, consisting of snow brush, small shovel, towing rope and jumpstart wires. Never needed those, but better to have them if needed (even if to help someone else).

Cleaner windows where stabilizator rollers go are not exactly issue in my book. Notceable scratches there are, where in your pic frontmost line in upper part. To me those were easiest to see during daylight, when sun light going through those scratches & reflected differently.

this might be of use. There was also subaru TSB, but too lazy to search. To me biggest issue is not squeeking though, but potential of scratching window with worn stabilizers (well, actually already scratched ). And for that it's better to replace while there still is warranty, as replacing window otherwise might be too costly. (i missed end of warranty, thus decided to live with scratches). Supposedly it's common fault to many cars with frameless windows.

Lauren: maybe it's alignment rig dependent. In printout pic provided by you there was that drawing of toe angle scheme right by toe value, that for rear it was measured from below. That should reverse positive vs negative angle values vs front then. But what seems weirdest, that Graemel's described symptoms sound exactly like what would result from toe out :((. Damn, confusing

Maybe ask him to dial a bit more toe-in rear, to eg. 0.1 each wheel, 0.2 total.

But is this same for rear, how positive or negative angle values for toe are marked?

Unfortunately that little of toe angle is hard to check visually, so quickest probably would be calling place where you did alignment and tell if positive numbers for rear axle wheels toe angle on their rig printout mean toe-out or toe-in. Normally what is wished on RWD car - for rear wheel's front to be slightly tucked in car, so that when car leans/rolls/transfers mass on outside wheels when taking curve, it has tendency to move that end with "presteered" wheels back to center, "toe-in". Toe out, with leaned upon pre-steered with such alignment wheel, of course tends to steer that end even more out, when one leans on that outside wheel in curve.

Hmm, some googling. "The toe angle identifies the direction of the tires compared to the centerline of the vehicle" "Positive toe, or toe in, is the front of the wheel pointing towards the centerline of the vehicle." "Toe is a measurement of how much the front and/or rear wheels are turned in or out from a straight-ahead position. When the wheels are turned in, toe is positive (+). When the wheels are turned out, toe is negative (-)." "The toe angle identifies the exact direction the tires are pointed compared to the centerline of the vehicle when viewed from directly above. Toe is expressed in either degrees or fractions-of-an-inch, and an axle is said to have positive toe-in when imaginary lines running through the centerlines of the tires intersect in front of the vehicle and have negative toe-out when they diverge." "Toe-In (Positive Toe) exists where the distance of the front of both rear wheels on the common rear axle is closer together than the rear of the same rear wheels. Toe-Out (Negative Toe) exists when the distance between the front of both rear wheels on the common rear axle is farther apart than the rear of the same rear wheels." ============= Hmm, though on some other printouts with schematics, i see angles between centerline and wheel drawn in opposite for front and rear. Angle from above for front wheels, and from below for rears. Damn, it's confusing. SO WHICH IS IT?!!

Oh. Last guess is if really misinterpret, and said toe settings ARE toe-out, like Lauren said (but imho he also may have erred with "If I'm reading it right and it's a bloody nightmare the 'actual', which I guess is what you actually have after they've done it means you've got toe out on the rear and it's not even equalised."), then i'd completely understand such behaviour of rear tending to step-out (btw, one of valid tuning ways for underpowered NA specialised drift setups, to intentionally reduce rear traction/ease of drifting. Not needed for high power forced induction driftmachines though. But i doubt it :/) Well, one can always check by bringing car to another shop with other alignment machine, but it's still more $$ and probably wasted, due me thinking that it's not the case, and it actually being toe-in. Oh. And last-last guess is miscalibrated alignment rig in shop you've been to. But that's also among lesser possibilities.

Graemel: you can increase toe-in in rear, to eg. -0.2dg total, try lesser tire pressures in rear, try softer rollbar rear, try something like this, but imho still there is something wrong, that should be fixed. Just that my "remote diagnostic" skills and suspension knowledge are too low to find out what can be wrong. Just knowing that for others even stock, or with alignment you have, car shouldn't be that traction-less in rear, and neutral margin between understeer plow and rear traction loss usually is much wider. About the last mad idea, that maybe something wrong with diff, that eases loosing traction in rear, but i doubt it. One can try to diagnose at dealership, but i somewhat pessimistically doubt their competency on handling at extremes or diagnosing mundane problems (except if with subsequent 'replace everything one-by-one untill fixed') or brushing problem off in general 'driving normally on roads it's ok', 'we don't endorse track abuse'. In this case i'd ask someone that knows better :). Be it visiting some well spoken of performance suspension shop (eg. mentioned Chris@CG), or eg. asking on this thread or PMing Racecomp Engineering directly with describing experienced, symptoms, tell current alignment numbers and ask for advise/what to check. Of course from high probability reasons i could have included wrong driving inputs, but cited Colin Hoad's experiences during CAT training probably strikes that out. But you still can go to some meat/track day and ask other twin owner to check or have a go in other twin.

With single set of camberbolts -1.5 is about max (at stock height. lowering adds some -0.2 more). With camberbolts in both holes total front camber ~ -2.2 to -2.3 (-2.5 if lowered). If you add eccentric powerflex front lca bushing in addition to camberbolts in both strut lower mountholes, total front camber can be upped to -3 degrees. For more then that (or if one doesn't use PF bushings, or has just one set of camberbolts) - one needs top camberplates or slotted strut mounts. BTW, adding extra camber in front won't eliminate extra oversteer. To change grip bias for less oversteery, it would be rather opposite, with added grip rear (in this case - more negative camber, to compensate tire flex in curve on track due side-Gs) or reduces grip in front. I'd rather use some toe-in in rear for more rear stability .. .. BUT! If i interpret your printout right (more used to printouts with rear axle alignments placed below ), Rear axle > Toe > left 0dg05' right 0dg03' total 0dg0.8'already is slight toe in? (positive values were toe-in, negative toe-out, right?) so imho it should already be better of stock's 0 toe in rear aswell. And even with everything stock my car seemed a bit less oversteery, vs what you describe, that even 5% extra throttle after understeer could make it snap oversteer, i needed to shift grip to front much more for oversteer with throttle in long curves for rear grip loss. And you say that competent driver also observed that excessive oversteer. I'm slightly at loss here. :/ Yes, even more toe-in should add stability, but imho it shouldn't be that bad as you describe even with toe-in you have now. Another way for quick add of rear grip even without redoing alignment would be lessening air pressure in rear tires. But still, imho it shouldn't be as bad. As Varelco asked - do you have changes to different stiffness roll bars or to any other suspension bits, except alignment? Car is still NA? Tire pressures are even? No suspension bits had been worn/bent?

Can you post printout or at least numbers of your current alignment? At least front and rear camber and toe? (and yes, as Lauren mentioned, it's common for RWD cars alignment to gain more stability with slight toe-in in rear. (helped me some time ago vs stock alignment too for similar goal of more stability and to allow quicker open throttle going out of curves). Worth not going too overboard with that though, as toe affects more badly tire wear, then eg. camber)

If you still haven't committed purchase imho better would be going for TD deal. Header needs ecu tune to get it's gains fully, and imho TD will do better with specific tune to their header, as package. With some ebay-ish headers one is limited to non-fully optimal generic OTS tunes or to more expensive custom dyno tuning to fine-tune engine to those headers.

I suggest: 1) from stoptech site download brake fitment template, 2) whomever is selling those wheels, send him said template or point where it can be found and ask to check, if those wheels will clear it. That's much better then trying to find someone also having some specific combo (btw, you didn't post what offset those wheels have).