Church

What i would dislike in disconnecting battery - it will clear ecu's learnt fuel trims. Clock & headunit settings reset seems non important to me.

Regarding locking/alarm i missed a lot audible beep of alarm when locking i got in almost every other car. Easy to miss if really had locked in middle of city during noisy day from locks locking sound only and flashing of turn lights due bright daylight. One of main reasons of mirror-autofold module for me was to gain easy to see visual clue if i had locked car.

I wonder, how much similarities or not are in handling between twins & mx5 ..

Cerec1: imho worth to save money on tuning. I'd get tune with parts i intend to run it longterm. Be it stock header, be it with aftermarket header, be it with forced induction. I'd be too cheap for paying for new retune after each "step".

I myself driving on hybrid pads (Ferodo DS2500) .. but it's also because i focus more on street use, and not loading them much and for long on few times i get on track, limiting to short sessions with cooling inbetween, still on non very grippy tires and not supercharged. If i'd primarly focused on track side of things (like it somewhat sounded in some of posts here), i'd get track pads. Imho most hybrid pads are not enough for serious track abuse, more like oem+. A bit higher temp range, a bit more braking needed to overcook/glaze them vs stock .. but also not as much cons of track pads. Though of course question being what is that one actually wants and prioritises :). THE very best way out is to have two set of dedicated/specialised pads, one for track, one for daily, and swap them depending on use. Track pads are awful on street and street pads inadequate on track. Hybrid ones are not much of an answer either, being like what all-seasons are vs proper summer or winter tires in respective seasons.

I wonder though why so much emphasis on track use is placed .. yet only hybrid/street pads considered?

BTW, imho both chains & socks should be considered only as temporary means to get through something, for very short distances.

I never have used snow socks (though chains too) myself, but if they really do work like they show in youtube vids, those would be my choice (look compact/light/non-rattling/cheap/of better clearance vs chains). OK, my first choice would be studded tires, if those are legal in your country, some from at least top three or alike (eg. nokian hakkas R2, blizzak ws80, michelin xice3 and alike) for unstudded ones + socks as second choice. I would't consider chains, as imho situations when those might be needed will make car undrivable due low ground clearance anyway. I'd be scared also of them scrapping off paint if clearance is tight from lock to lock or with bottomed out suspension wheel. Also remember, that: 1) while snow chains might fit on stock wheels due them being slightly tucked in, they may not clear with some aftermarket wheels, exactly because they are wider and/or of lower offset, because of which those aftermarket wheels may have been chosen/bought, 2) for winter it's better to go for lower width tires. I did't like even stock width of 215 grip, certainly would never consider wider then that for winter, but if there is choice, would have got 205 or 195 wide ones .. also maybe of a bit higher diameter for some extra ground clearance.

All intakes that cause MAF sensor to read differently will need tune. IIRC TRD's and Grimmspeed's didn't. Perrin's and especially if it's 3" one, need MAF sensor rescale. They will run without, but AF probably will be wrong, less efficient or too lean and so on .. My own choice would be to not get aftermarket intake. Even more so one like Perrin's, that require bumper removal for airfilter change. 1) stock intake also is cold air intake and rather efficient one, 2) aftermarket airfilter should be sufficient for most of aftermarket intake's gains on older zenki twins for small fraction of price.

Not easy. Due wide because of boxer design engine and cramped under-bonnet space. I suggest googling for DIY spark plug change though, as if done by dealer it might be very expensive. I guess because official dealer procedure for changing spark-plugs IIRC involved lifting engine, thus due high hour pay they ask much. By DIY guide it was not easy, but possible without lifting engine.

Philip: if i'm alone and shop for just one-two bags worth of groceries, those go in front of passenger seat anyways . Also when parking in garage-alike places imho it's easier to gauge side space in sideview mirrors, with car side line in them as kind of ruler .. again, when parking in reverse. And there is always bit that due one sitting in front of car it's easier/safer to start driving off if reverse-parking due need to drive out car of row way less, to be able to see side traffic behind other cars, or less turns needed to drive off. One usually can do one maneuver quicker, other - slower. I prefer longer park-in, quick-easy drive-off. Others parking front first - quick park, slow drive-off. Matter of preference i guess. AND - if parking in reverse, rear camera that i installed, helps a LOT to trim those last few cm till wall/other car. One of best usability mods for this car due it's very bad rearwards visibility with high boot line / hard to gauge distance through rear window. P.S. There is another bonus for reverse parking, especially in parking lot where most park front first. - if it happens that due some bad parkers that find it difficult to park in middle between lines, and due them cut space from both spot sides thus only very very tight spot that classic "front-parkers" find too narrow to use, you can still reverse (or front, if others are reverse parked, main idea being - opposite direction) park-in .. but getting your space to open doors via parking passenger side very close to passenger side of car next to yours. Even if one wants to get in passengers in such, it can drive out a bit from row, but otherwise no problems of getting in from driver-sides of such closely parked in opposite pairs cars.

I have similar habits to Lauren, preferring to spend a bit more time/efforts when parking, to have it easier/quicker/safer (better manoeuvrability/visibility) to take off later on. 9/10 cases i reverse park. But to each his own, there seem to be more of such drivers that park other way, at least according what i observed in big shop parking lots, so hence maybe toyota's choice regarding that feature. Imho to make everyone happy it would be nice to make this feature adjustable .. eg. using techstream or alike tools, so that it can work for almost everybody. For example for ones with parking habbits like me have reverse lights on for "follow me home" .. or not, especially if it can rise car price .. i simply don't care much about this feature being there or not.

Imho best ever twin looks-wise was TRD's griphon, 2nd in my book - 2016 GRMN.

Is it issue at all, if leak is very slight and not enough oil gets through during change intervals to need any additional oil? In my eyes it's something i wouldn't care about, just some extra dirtyness in place i don't see

Forced induction intercooler usually comes in front of main rad just behind front grill anyway, doesn't it? And even if not FI, stock air intake is cold air intake, whose inlet/snorkel is before engine compartment, above crashbeam. Vents may help lowering underbonnet temps, but how much they matter for moving car? How much actually gets heatsoaken with air passing at big flow speeds through plastic tubes? Imho not enough to care much about it. Main cooling also has more capabilities and is not limiting factor. There is thermostat in coolant loop and electronic regulation to electric fan, if needed to be it can stay longer spinning and get more out of existing cooling system/capabilities. But oil temps often get on the high side on our cars. Often even if iddling in traffic standstill or if tracked in hot summer day. So for extra engine reliability/longetivity it's oil rad that i'd add to more heavily used car (track and/or FI). If i'd think of adding vents .. they would come after oil rad, after oil catchcan, after stronger engine internals. And vents in fender after hood's vents. BTW, my own choice would be leaving all those mods for later if not abandoning them at all .. but rather spend that money on actually tracking car and/or maybe some slight suspension/tires/brakes upgrade. You'll spend less, spend on actually having fun, and you'll gradually upgrade main part of them all - yourself as a driver.

IIRC front wing vents do work a bit (if modded to functional ones, by installing mesh and cutting out fenders a bit), but very slightly, as at that place there is not big pressure difference. One is much better off installing hood vents for that reason, as there is more of pressure difference / more effective air evacuation, thus better air evacuation for lower underbonnet temps & a bit downforce. But imho it should be enough to add oil cooler to heavily tracked or high power FI builds.

It also is UK-specific.

You are not the only one THAT old school. Even though mostly playing off mp3s off usb stick, i also want headunit to 1) have cd slot, 2) have hardware sound volume knobs.

CE28N is LIGHTER then CE28SL? :/ - there is no mistake? IIRC CE28N was "base model", and "-SL" stands for "super lap" lightened ones with some extra material removed from where it's not critical and doesn't affect rigidity too much? At least it was this way for "normal" TE37 vs TE37SL, so i expected this from CE28SL to be same way. Imho it might be possible this way if it's about 8-spoke (known to be lighter) 4-bolt PCD (like for Miata) CE28N versions, that might be lighter then 10-spoke 5-bolt PCD CE28SL though. But if that's the case, then these weights are certainly not apples to apples. Different widths/offsets/types of "faces" can affect weight too. If it's not for 1:1 size & PCD, it's like comparing performance numbers for cars dynoed at different dynos. P.S. If one is OK with red only paint choice, there should be better priced "CR" version of CE28. So called "Club Racer" or "Scholarship" type.

Another tip - if by chance you want engine running AND lock the car (such as in winter, to heat up/to thaw snow/ice or to warm up in advance prior having a go in it this time in comfort, but not wishing someone breaking in), then with running engine 1) lock passenger door from inside, 2) lock driver's door with mechanical key.

I had mishap with autolocking doors of flat two decades ago. From then on i made it habbit to put all keys on small chain and just attach key set to my pants. "If i have my pants on, i have my keys in pocket with me"

Imho worth browsing through wheel directory on american forum. When scrolling down there you see both pic of wheel+how it looks on car, with link ot thread about that wheel. See designs to ones liking, select which wheels also feature such, and then go for specifics, like sizing/offset/weight/how it's made/price/shop to buy :).

Hence - "used". I got mine 17" T6 set for summer and 16" SSR Cs for winter for around 350-400eur each set .

I might be wrong, but IIRC semi-solid-forging of SSR Cs was not 1:1 classic forged. I'd rather position them strength wise closer to some MAT cast wheels. They are light, on par of top forged wheels weight, but i also heard stories that easy to bend. If you like that 6-thin-spoke design and searching such wheels, from currently still produced of that design IIRC there were Advan RG-D, and from "real forged" (but not made anymore, thus only available used, under several brands like Technicraft/Joustmeister/Neez Wolfsburg .., currently in TWS offering replaced by T66-F) of such design Taneisya T6 wheels (=TWS-forged).

I'm bound to stock brakes legally, as fitting any BBK would make my car locally non-MOT-legal. So i need to get most of stockers. So no way around using better fluids with higher boiling temps & more track-ish pads for performance closer to as with less capable. but on BBKs, that run cooler.