Church

To me twins stock side mirror view angle also seemed lacking compared to cars i've driven before, hence bought convex mirrors. Luckily simple/cheap enough fix.

Brig: by chance, can you post pictures of DIY laces you made?

I don't care much about looks .. but what i like in Velox's - their lightweightness & that they are one of very few that were actually tested for strength/durability. At least i didn't saw mention of such tests for any other aftermarket LCA. It's also is nice that they can be ordered with ball joint or STX compatible bushing. (or differing parts can be ordered separately), giving choice.

Least money are SPC/Whiteline/Eibach clones. If money no object, i'd prefer Velox's (for these also might be worth to add headlight autoleverer extension). I'm not sure ones in-between are cheaper enough then top and better enough then cheapest to get them. As for these .. take note that they have ball-joint. Might rule out of some stock racing classes.

There _was_ "weakness" in tire. It was fixed, properly. Making it no less reliable then before. Oooh, or you have statistical data to prove otherwise and that all tire repair shops should be eliminated, as they endanger society?

Lauren: just if track use is considered, then from time to time after pyrometer readings or after observing tire wear or if one will want to change grip balance sometimes it takes several iterations to find wished optimum camber, and for those iterations each time to readjust with using bushings might be major PITA. From description of OP it's more about looks & non rubbing, then of course it's one-time alignment set, and eccentric bushings may do aswell.

There are ones that do iceracing with DIY made ice studded tires with hundred long bolts in those and just pump in extra air from time to time to compensate leaks :). That's a bit more extreme then just one nail

Offset bushings .. or aftermarket LCA since beginning. Given that work pressing out stock and replacing bushings also will cost extra, it may eat cost difference, no?

Should be no issues unless puncture was very big-wide to damage noticeably large portion of tire plies or noticeably tire thread. Patch from inside should be strong enough & airtight, it's ply that adds strength to tire. If anything, there might be slight vibration issues if not rebalanced, but tire repairers most probably balanced it again during mount on wheel after repair, right? And if being anal, there might be slight weight gain from patch. I see nothing to worry about.

Ade: but IIRC he started seeking more capable alternatives, because he hit limitations for track use. And rubber dust boots .. on heavy braking at track they can soon be burnt off anyway .. due heat/temperatures caliper paint also fades by time. I'd maybe just more often pressure-wash them, but that kit by price/performance/capabilities still looks #1 in my eyes. IIRC some of Essex users were from Canada too, where also salt in winters gets used on roads, and mentioned just more frequent washing.

I suggest if fitting on just front BBK only, then buy kits, that are especially designed for such configuration, to not shift front-rear brake bias. While with fitting BBK just front one may fix one of deficiencies of stock brakes - increase heat capacity, as fronts are doing main braking anyway, there is also chance to make braking itself worse, if bias is shifted a lot. For example lock one end of car much sooner, while other end still is underbraked, increase rate of tire/brake wear, interfer with electronic nannies, or add instability when braking, if ABS is off. Better not. LOL, and there i'm back with suggesting again Essex Sprint kit, that, like their Endurance kit too, is made to match stock brakes in rear with same brake bias.

If track use is considered, i'd probably would get AP Essex Sprint kit. it won't just give higher heat capacity and lighter weight, but it's rotors & pads should last twice as long, letting save on wearables in long run. Also should be easy enough to get different vendors/compounds pads in that shape. I'm not that sure that if saving on wearables & common pad shape was high in priority list for many of other BBK kits. Otherwise i'd use stockers + airducts.

"TRD" in this case is mostly some aero elements & different wheels (and maybe catback exhaust? If tips are D shaped or dual in each side, then very probably TRD catback of one of two versions)). Well, maybe also TRD intake and with very little probability TRD's coilovers/pillow ball mounts/TRD brakes (VERY expensive). As for leaving it stock .. i'd still probably get at least camber bolts front and some cheap LCA like SPC/Whiteline/Eibach for rear, and 1) tune more camber front then in back, for a bit less understeer, 2) do alignment in general, as stock ranges imho are a bit too wide with handling being rather different at range extremes, that still would pass. If going to track, i'd add to that minimum a bit more capable brake pads & brake fluid with higher boiling temp, and if there some adjustment range left, add more negative camber all around vs street. Of course, car is trackable 100% stock, but at lesser speeds, with more understeer (to my taste), uneven tire wear (mostly outside) and sooner to overheat brakes.

For even more fun i highly advise visit some track in future. Level of spending like that of visiting pub, but imho much more fun to be had :). Even with everything stock these are surprisingly capable. (Just if everything IS really stock, limit to short sessions of ~ 10-15m, to not cook brakes).

Luckily our oem wheels have 60dg conical taper most "aftermarket wheels" have. So in many cases you can use these stock nuts on many aftermarket wheels and vice versa.

Hmm, numbers look rather good to me, when i look at toe numbers / total thrust angle. But if anything, you may try to ask to get rear toe more even left to right. Even if as stock, camber front & rear is not adjustable (only minimal amount within undone/retightened mounting bolt play), but toe should be adjustable even stock, both front & rear. Still, existing alignment numbers imho shouldn't cause noticeable significant veering under accel, and that suggestion to even out toe-in in rear was more for perfectionism. Head scratching. Hmm, what else can be wrong on almost new car? :/ Can rear LSD somewhat misbehave and redirect more torque to just one wheel? My knowledge on that is not sufficient.

don't miss this bit. "when you take your foot off the power it veers back to the left" .. though: Gigrilla: this veering back - is it from steering changes to compensate trajectory changes under acceleration prior, or is this just going straight line w/o touching steering, when rolling in neutral or clutch-disengaged? And .. maybe it's dealer's job to fix, but i'd check/get printout at independent suspension shop alignment.

Weering off on accel/decel in straight line on dry tarmac isn't characteristic trait. I'd check most probable things: 1) tire pressure all around, if all is good & even - you already checked i guess 2) car alignment. probably at good suspension shop .. somehow dealership sounds a bit .. shady. Then maybe also what rob275 had suggested. IIRC it was VSC sensor recalibration. Though if anything, i'd blame 1. (with one tire half-flat it behaved exactly like that on power/power off) or 2. I'd check also that maybe something wrong with LSD .. but most probably not, after all you get weering off even with accel off. Not sure how to interpret on bumpy roads car feeling loose and that steering noise/fedback. Twins have rather bad noise insulation in general and steering feedback .. is good thing? And loose .. a bit more specific, how? But so far again, i'd check suspension parts state & alignment. If loose - not too stable / too twitchy steering, might be some toe-out that shouldn't be. Similar reason if loose - unstable under power. Slight toe-in in rear (at front i have 0 toe) made my car noticeably more stable in straights / when bad grip / under accel. In general, stock alignment has rather broad ranges of what passes as acceptable, while resulting in rather different handling at extremes of those ranges. Car brand new / not delivering power? Isn't it still break-in time? I got mine slightly used with 5K miles on clock, so don't know how it should be if completely new. If car's battery has been disconnected for whatever maintenance reasons, for some mileage it also might be a bit dull due until ecu learns fuel trims and accelerator pedal movement range. You can google for dead pedal fix & how to learn fuel trims sooner. Stock alignment for FR-S was: Front: Camber: 0 +/- 45' (0 +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 0°45' (0.75°) or less) Caster (Reference): 5°54' (5.90°) Steering Axis Inclination (Reference): 15°31' (15.52°) Toe (Each Wheel): 0°00' +/- 0°11' (0.00° +/- 0.19°) Toe (Total): 0 +/- 3.0 mm (0 +/- 0.1181 in.) Rear: Camber: -1°12' +/- 45' (-1.20° +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 45' (0.75°) or less) Toe (Each Wheel): C + D: 0°10' +/- 0°15' (0.16° +/- 0.24°) Toe (Total): 2.0 +/- 3.0 mm(0.0787 +/- 0.1181 in.) There is BIG difference between even slight toe-out vs toe-in in handling. If you always drive on public streets only, i'd get zero toe front, slight toe-in rear, camber .. by my tastes i'd wish for more camber front vs stock even on DD only, but if extra understeer doesn't put you off, stock camber values of 0 front, -1.12 rear should do. Advisable to have them even on both sides of course. By my tastes i'd wish by 0.5 more negative camber in front then in rear, so with stock rear camber it would be 1.5-1.6 negative camber front. Probably doable even with one set of camberbolts. If occasionally visiting track, then get more camber, or tire outsides will soon rip/wear off long before tire central part/inside will. For this i'd get camberbolts in both strut holes for total camber of ~ -2.2 front, and some cheap adjustable LCA for rear (whiteline / spc / eibach) in same fashion by 0.5 less, eg. -1.7. If visiting track often enough for most track wear to happen there and wishing to maximize grip, i'd get -3 to -3.2 camber front (and again by -.5 less at rear). Unfortunately for this one also needs camberplates, maxedout camber by bolt/-s alone won't suffice. Which unfortunately means also extra NVH.

Endlinks?

Main point - there is little real use of it. I'd move on.

kylefraser23: Hmm, what fender garnishes are these?

Then you are out of luck. It's uber-expensive eco-something type of gas by some EU regulations our cars had till late 2014 IIRC (my was early 2014 ). Then regulation got laxed / AC & gas type for it were switched to common ones, but this sticker under bonnet means we got in very expensive refills camp, doubtfully at prices cited @OPP. I had minor accident to front, which also involved AC condenser leak .. and number on bill of fixing was not enjoyable.

For such black lip there is also OEM option plastic garnish (couldn't find it's P/N via googling though), can be found selling eg. on ebay, but at price probably 5x what wrapping costs

Stock pedals in ours aren't exactly positioned best for heal & toe. Too far apart, gas pedal a bit too low. There are several relocation kits though, that rise it by inch and move closer to brake pedal by half an inch.

The simplest is to not carry anything, just stop by nearest fuel station and quick wash off poo before it's dried by days outside. In my eyes car is not luxury item, but means of transportation & fun. Wasting too much time on battle one will loose anyway imho is excessive. Scratches/dents will accumulate if one uses car. Better to not burn own nerves on inevitable marks of age/use, just clean at reasonable rate biggest dirt/birds poo/insects/whatever from time to time. Looked upon scratch marks from brush from cleaning ice/snow .. looked at scratch marks behind door handle .. looked at scratched paint from cone on track .. sigh. Car paint by far is not like new .. i still love owning/driving it.