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Install can be very simple this way .. but re-alignment still is more then advisable. Camber will increase a bit (more in rear), that's little issue, but if toe gets out of whack due shorter struts assembly, even more so, if unevenly, that's definitely something i'd wish to check/fix. And while DIY alignment using strings method is possible, it needs much higher skillset and is major PITA to do, much simpler is to have car aligned on alignment rig while having coffee

Not sure it can be called "problem". Even stock, ground clearance of twins, and especially more so, bumpstop free suspension travel is not that high to begin with. Obviously to compensate even further reduction of it, proper lowering springs should also come with higher spring rates. So compliance/comfort will suffer a bit. Suggest to not value mods only by arguable looks, but also by function (or reduction of it). At very least, when choosing lowering springs, suggest to get ones of reasonable lowering level, eg. within inch, so to not fsck up suspension geometry too much, to not need many extra parts to fix eg. roll center or to rise diff to reduce CV joint wear. Fitting springs shouldn't be rocket science and most shops should be able to do that. But obviously after spring change one should also redo car alignment, and that may reduce competent quality alignment shop count.

TD/Fensport/Abbey .. from what it seems, most have fine experiences with all of these. Obviously i doubt that anyone had for his car FI kits from at least two of these, to have some comparison ground for comparison, and most just say good about & advise their choice. That imho won't make decision any easier, so i'd chime in that you should go with any of them that is more local to you.

Funny, that "pedal dance" some use on track for switching off nannies, IIRC originates exactly with purpose to serve as diagnostic mode for dyno.

Lauren: thanks for sharing experience. I initially wanted stock ones, but that worry kept me off, hence why i thought that going for flexible flaps should "fix" that potential worry

No, it's rather modern car paint in general is not durable, when regulations made all makers to change to use paint w/o lead IIRC. +Wish of some for grippier tires or "spaced flush". Both those factors also are good ways to gain extra chips, as sticky tires pick up LOT of debris and obviously later also increases scratches.

I looked upon car .. mine are covered with dirty snow & ice .. certainly no sense in posting any "close-up" pics. Quick search turned up DIY install vid of rallyarmor ones. But as i noted before, i didn't like those brackets being below bumper. I guess if i'd were to choose again, i'd first try rockblokz ones due that reason. Certainly not pleasant to get screwdriver out and fix back detached, when i had reversed against kerb, flaps covered with dirt.

Hmm, my thoughts on mudguards .. Stock are cheap and look good on car, but i'm slightly worried, that such plastic mudguards can be easily brake. Should be easy to buy at any toyota/subaru dealership, or if you find part numbers, order online wherever cheapest. IIRC there might be different ones for restyle & prerestyle, due different rear bumper, but not sure. And it may differ between gt86 and brz. I have rally armor ones .. look good .. but i hate one bit .. their construction includes aluminium bracket, that sits a bit below bumper bottom. So it's easy to bend/break off those brackets if you eg. park near kerb in reverse with wheels till stop. Needed to rebolt back few times due that. IIRC rokblokz mudflaps don't have such bracket, simply stiffer rubber part, and they also have shortened version for lowered cars. I don't have own experience with these though.

Slightly curious. Stock wheels or aftermarket, more spaced out ones via width or offset?

If, you are using them with stock topmounts, and want to keep rubber topmounts for NVH sake, but willing to pay some, there is such option as Pedders top mounts, which also are rubber but eccentric (IIRC ~ 0.75dg extra camber). No nfo on what and if camberbolts can be used with Ohlins. Maybe some other Ohlins user may chime in.

2mm .. seems too small of a difference to care for. I'd think of adding 2mm spacer only in case if changing just one wheel. But if both on axle are same, i'd leave it as is.

Most cars have positive offset wheels, due usually brakes & wheel hub being somewhere in the middle, so offset (which is distance from disk contact with wheelhub to wheel center line) is positive due wheel contacting hub from outside. It's hard to name without extensive search modern car with negative (very "deep dish", past wheel center line) offset wheels. Maybe only some widebody atrocity but with custom very narrow but flush to that widebody wheels. The bigger the (positive offset) number, the more wheels are tucked in and vice versa, less offset wheels are spaced more outside. Suggest to not go overboard with too big of offset change, as it may affect eg. scrub radius. So in your example ET48 wheels of same width will be 2mm more into car vs ET45, yes. Little change to handling, maybe looks will suffer a bit, but again, little, if noticeable at all. Imho worth to keep offset change with aftermarket wheels less then 1cm. 2mm should be fine.

Oh, rear ARB stiffening can "help" with changing car behaviour there .. but with "cost", making car TOO oversteery in other corners, and even in these high speed ones .. it's not like changed bias will increase cornering speed in such, it's just that now car will loose grip with both ends or rear first. At same or even slower speeds, when understeer during turn happened before. Stiffer roll bars change grip, true, but with making load transfer between sides happen sooner, so quicker to overload outside tires and quicker to loose grip. Quick setup is a bit understeery. Stock simply was way too much understeer biased, but that is already fixed by that extra front camber. One can make handling worse if overdoing too much in other direction.

+1 to more front camber as better way to reduce front understeer as one that will both add front grip & enhance track tire wear vs thicker rear rollbar, which will reduce rear grip and do nothing on evening tire wear. Changed grip front:rear balance both ways, but different results in other areas

That would me my first guess aswell. Most guides/videos of changing steering wheel to aftermarket one tell to pay extra attention to not damage it.

Unfortunately one needs to choose between quality audio and at best lagging android screen mirroring in products of leading car headunit makers, OR native android in some of chinese units. I'd be willing to pay extra to get both quality and audio in one unit, but as there were none in all these years despite imho more then probable demand, for whatever reasons, i predict that there will be none in foreseeable closest future. So it's upto one choosing his poison from exclusive choices. As alternative, i'd maybe consider chineese android headunit + some investment in amps/speakers, to enhance it's output instead of relying on built in amplification.

Worst noise issue from that area for me was from U latches of reclaiming back of seats. IIRC more permanent fix should be reassembling latching mechanism in seat back, but as temporary workaround some ducttape can be applied around those latches (after few opening/closing soft tape will probably be cut through). As for brake light .. maybe some felt or something alike can be cut and sticked on between brake light and glass?

Oh there is impact. Just it gets hidden due design and cooling reserves of automotive cooling system. Water has one of best specific volumetric heat capacity for different coolants (especially if excluding several exotic or rare/expensive or poisonous or with other serious drawbacks coolants). Most additives of different kind to that water have that heat capacity worse, but are there for eg. lowering freezing temps, reduce bio (eg. algae) buildup/growth, and reduce electrolytic corrosion in cooling loop with elements of electrically dissimilar metals (eg. copper vs brass vs alu vs steel). So if i'd live in tropical country, i'd run distilled water all the time, and not just because it's cheaper, but also because will cool better. You don't see that if coolant having worse heat capacity in car cooling has worsened cooling, due: cooling system having extra cooling headroom to work also in worst case scenario sufficiently as designed by car manufacturer (also taking into account properties of commonly used coolants), also in it's design there being thermostats, thermal probes and active regulation of temps (eg. electric fan on rad control). So unless you log also how often and how long thermostat opened to switch between cooling loops, how often and at what speed and for how long fans switched on, you won't notice, if coolant of worse volumetric heat capacity changed something to worse in cooling or not, temps will stay roughly same. Just it will run more often through main cooling loop and fans will work a bit longer/faster.

I guess, it's about priorities. One thing for less driven car to hold charge longer .. but it also comes with weight penalty. And as there are also ones going opposite route with those lithium batteries for track use .. Priorities. Or maybe one should go similar as with brake pads, switching between two sets if it's for trackday or dd, in similar way with two different batteries, heavy lump for lockout non-driving charge hold, and one for summer (IIRC low winter temps also reduce max charge)/track days. One thing that kept me from going this route was not wishing to deal with learnt fuel-trim relearning on battery disconnect.

There is also case of vendor selling same fluid in different volumes and in different premix proportions. More often larger volume bottles premixed, smaller as concentrates pre-premix. Does bottle have part number? Have you tried finding more info searching with that PN? Also it's just coolant. I'm not sure i'd be that keen of 100% sticking to one single OE type of fluid.

Suspension/brake parts, they all will. It's simpler to note parts that are different between them, as i guess it's much-much shorter list, then what's same/common. There are slight changes in MY2017 restyle twins, but not changing physical dimensions of suspension/brake parts. So you can cross-shop at will. And use guides/videos from others. Or source OE parts from "other vendor" if cheaper.

Even if you don't intend to keep car, it would be nice touch to replace at least TOB. It's cheap, immensely cheap relative to cost of work to drop transmission for it's replacement.

Well, not any, i guess some might be OE replacements similar to stock one, but yeah, as in most cases one buys aftermarket clutch to handle higher torque w/o slipping, most of them are also stiffer to press/use and more PITA for daily use in city stop-and-go traffic jam traffic and some also add extra noises/chatter.

Have you also tried clutch pedal travel adjustment (but in other direction, to increase pedal dead travel)? Maybe it may fix slight clutch drag. If not, i'd probably take it to shop to diagnose clutch & TOB bearing state. Rest, like hard to get into gear, is common problem if clutch is not completely disengaging, and just symptoms that go by it. Reverse detent shouldn't be related to that.

WW_GT86: btw, what type of noise you are fighting for? squealing at low speed noise? Have you tried bedding them? (eg. on empty highway to not mess with other traffic, try 5-10 60mph-5mph stops (without completely stopping), then drive a bit to cool off. It won't fix squeal (at least for few days)?