Church

While most components are more often then not designed to be stock drop-in replacements, there still are some exhaust component models that are intended to be used with their vendor's other bits in set and have non-standard flanges/connections, eg. v-bands instead of normal bolts flanges and so on. So even if product is of "quality" brand, one should do homework first checking everything about it.

I also went route of used forged wheels. My set of 17x7.5 Taneisya T6 with weight of 6.2kg each was just 400eur. Cannot justify price of new forged set for 2-3K for car that is intended to be cheap. If i had to buy new ones, probably would limit myself with some lighter cast ones, like RPF1 or Kosei K4R.

Well, there is also lower trim (at JDM/ADM) stock 16" (IIRC also by Enkei) 16"x6.5 J 5x100 ET48mm 15.89lbs / 7.21kg. As slightly narrower, but same offset, should be even more tucked in.

Stock is x7, not x7.5. Enkei 17"x7 J 5x100 ET48mm 20.1lbs / 9.1kg Good forged 17" wheels will be ~ 5.8-6.5kg .. good cast light wheels will be ~ 6.5-9kg (depending on if lightness or rigidity/strength is main focus)

While, as manual states, car can run on 95 without any effect on longevity, due more knocking ECU tune with fuel trims will reduce power a bit and economy also may suffer. So imho better using 98 fuel. It costs more, but is used less, money-wise - almost same.

Lauren: imho 9.2 kg for 17" is reasonable, yes, Enkey that made them, also has lighter ones for aftermarket, but many stock wheels around are also much heavier. +OE often tend to err on safe side, so certainly would had wanted/ordered as stock wheels with some extra strength, to lessen potential warranty issue count. If i'd fault something to stock wheels, it would be their price if new, nearing that of some forged wheels, way above average cast wheel cost in market.

Standard is ET48 (offset in mm from wheel's centerline to axle's hub) for 7" wide wheel. While also ET48's 8" wide wheel centerline's would go same place as OEM wheel's, it would add extra half of an inch (12.7mm) both to inside and outside of wheel, or in example of ET35, almost same on inside as stock ET48 x7" wheels, but 25.7mm more to outside. Speedo/gearing wise 225/40/R18 would also be bigger then stock 215/45/R17. For R18 AND of 225 width closest tire diameter to stock 215/45/R17 tire's is 225/35/R18. Within closest number changes simplest way by rule of thumb to keep somewhat similar overall circumference/diameter is - if rising one number, lower sidewall height (in % of tire's width) by "step". Rise two numbers (in this case both wheel diameter R17>R18 AND width 215>225) - lower sidewall height by two steps to compensate. Or just use some online tire calculator similar to linked in above to compare variants. (liking this particular, that it lets add many variants, not just between the two)

Lauren: how those yokos do in wet? So far i was eyeing more to stock size (or a bit narrower, eg. 205/50) MPS4 .. but as i still haven't bought them, open to other options too.

I find stock power sufficient. When daily driving, torque dip a bit bothers, but absolutely non issue on track, with rpms never dropping below 4K. And to me it's more fun having to row gears to keep in powerband if i want faster acceleration for eg. overtakes, then heaps of power from forced induction available at lazy pedal command and going alongside much higher price of car / upkeep / insurance. I'd rather wish they would add stock camber adjustment.

In my eyes only closest alternative to GT86 from new cars is MX5. In it you exchange even less practicality for slightly even more driving fun. Similar price range. Everything rest - not being made anymore, or costs much more, so not sure, if can be directly compared.

Is bumper lip below radgrill also wrapped or with optional (TRD?) garnish?

link #1 link#2 From some subaru brakers yard 16" Subaru Impreza (2004) space saver (without cut outs, does not foul callipers) or 17", with many round holes. If it will fit GT86 calipers pics: #1 , #2 ============= Extras to mount it: Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT Y64777-0D060 (N/STK CUSHION, SPARE) - 13.71 + VAT

On windscreen glare from part above instrument dash? Try fitting some alcantara trimmed piece there instead. IIRC there were some in aftermarket and maybe also OEM from never models. I once thought about it, but maybe because used to that, but don't notice anymore, so skipping purchase. EDIT LOL, i should reload before posting

Yes. Catless exhaust header in general increases loudness, and many catbacks that were "just right" with stock header often can become too loud to owners taste. Imho the more reason start with header for performance reasons and find fitting catback later on. It's different if one later installs turbo instead of staying NA or installing SC, as turbo muffles noise. Imho no youtube recordings will tell good enough for evaluating real loudness level. Best bet would be to go to some meet and hear in person setups one plans to buy.

Lauren: but i prefer camera because it lets to get within 1-2cm w/o contact. Frequency of beeping changes usually doesn't help to get that precise/close vs actually seeing from above both bumpers. Yes, i still use side mirrors too, but for rough steering/navigating in spot, not for moving back as close as possible. And looking in camera or mirrors .. it's just the same as glancing in different mirrors, just now including screen in list of mirrors, one is glancing at in sequence, too.

Camera does better on easing reverse parking.

Funny that many liked Milltek's sound. If not all the quality issues, it might have been very popular catback.

I've heard cases of muffler stuffing burning out in Q300 though after heavy tracking, and tone/loudness change.

vanko25: are you sure about Pilot Sport 3? Unlike PS2, PSS, PS4, PS3 IIRC was successor of other line, with different compound used / grip then "real" pilot sports. To others: you are sure on 225 ideal for 8.75"? I thought 7.5" is "ideal" for 225, and the wider wheel above, the more tire is stretched?

You want exactly this lot? Don't, it's staggered width.

Be more competitive on track? My answer would be - to have CHEAP japanese car .. and direct saved money to more track days and more HPDE tutoring received then owners of more expensive cars can afford. With stock (under)power of twins they'll get ahead in straights, with skills one can gain back in curves. Stickier tires and more camber can help upping cornering (&thus exit) speeds. That's budget variant. Or just go for forced induction right away, but even then stickier tires like MPSS/AD08R or even "cheater" RE71R won't hurt. But in general .. it's attitude problem of those collegues. If they are rude on such subject, i simply wouldn't value their opinion much and wouldn't get into arguing / "revenge" mood, just ignoring such people. They already are paying for their choice. Paying much much more.

Turbine kind of noise when off throttle? My guess is that it comes via sound generator passing inside intake noise when it's vacuuming. Try plugging out it's hole in cabin using "free" cig lighter plug from glovebox for quick test. Was there on mine when it was completely stock and made even more pronounced with changing to sound generator insert with less foam filling in it.

Wasn't retro-ish digital clock intentional stylistic element / paying homage to original AE86's?

BTW, hint, with different pressures front-rear your can do some quick on site/at track adjustments to change front-rear grip balance in simple way available to anyone, if one can get it more to one's liking to make it understeer less or more. Of course at some point reducing pressure adds extra mushiness/sidewall flex/takes out steering sharpness. But still is nice hack for test without touching anything rest in suspension (unadjustable for most), that can be then "set in stone" with eg. different camber settings and/or swaybars later on. But what i thought - "not highest recommended", but what coilover manufactorer lists as "minimum drop". For some of Teins it might be 20-30 former, and eg. 10mm later. Also IIRC some coilovers can still work fine even if adjusted to sit higher then what's listed "minimum" to them by "specs".

You did alignment .. but what are current dialed in numbers? Also as quick fix i'd lower pressure in tires .. and how about considering smaller size disks eg. R16 for higher sidewall profile to soak more road irregularities? I'd also rise car to max coilovers allow to gain back some of bumpless travel. Choice between looks vs undrivable seems obvious to me.