Church

Rear camber is not adjustable stock on ours, only toe is. Also if one lowers, one gains some extra negative camber naturally. Imho simplest to get those SPC lca-s too & call it a day. They are not just stock like (was important for me here, as local vehicle rules didn't allow my initial choice of Velox LCAs as lighter, as strong, and simpler to use adjustment mechanism), but also cheapest. Yes, rear LCAs will cost 3-4 times as dual front camber bolt set, but still 300-350$ for front camber bolts+lca-s imho is not extraorbitant amount to pay. Many pay tenfold that for cosmetic mods. P.S. I don't push much on public roads, at most some small tire screeching here and there still within legal speeds .. but on track i certainly appreciated alignment changes. More neg. camber in front made it less understeery for tight turns, and more negative camber in general let me go faster/gave extra confidence due extra grip even on same stock gripless primacies. And slight toe-in rear let me open throttle sooner going out of bend .. and yes .. car was also more stable on public roads under acceleration during low-grip in winter (toe-in self-stabilizes) BTW, even if one doesn't do any more fitting for performance/track use alignment .. it still is advisable to align nevertheless, even if one goes for stock zero camber all around and zero toe. Simply because stock alignment to pass has too broad ranges, and even completely new cars may handle VERY differently with still 'green/pass' adjustment range extremes.

And if you got LOT of cache to spare, look into OEM+ offerings, eg. Reference 450Q. Will cost as much as stock option of JBL speakers, but supposedly you'll actually get top sound.

If wheel & tire setup is square, and car will never see the track, i'd put -1-1.5deg neg camber front, by -0.5deg less in rear (to make a bit less understeery vs stock), as in from -0.5 to 1deg, at front zero toe, rear 0.1 toe in (for a bit more stability under throttle). Or also zero toe. If on rare ocasions, but you'll visit track once or twice a year, i'd up front camber to -2.5, rear to -2deg (still imho ok for street & w/o noticeable wear increase). If you'll become track junkie, i'd dial camber to -3.5 to -4 front (rear in same fashion -0.5deg less). I wouldn't go for "factory" zero camber & zero toe all around. Imho at least -1deg camber is nice to have in front even for only daily driven car.

It's not the most influential towards performance gains though, due resistive primary cat in stock header being so close to cylinders.

I recall hearing Very Aproximate numbers like if power above 250hp per axle, car needs awd to completely/reliably by pure grip to put down to tarmac without slipping/easing on throttle/sticky tires/electonic gimmickry. And it seems like so, with many more powerful being awd, or with some advertised uber diffs+electronics, Don't remember it was at crank or whp. But do recall old top gear video about amg merc, that even on dry, had traction control light lit almost all the time Of course these days most modern cars have electronic TC/SC, and LSDs are not that rare of a beast, also FI engines with more torque are more common even among generic cheap family haulers. Many of us run sticky tires on track. But without any gimmickry in generic car with open diff on generic street tires 250 seems believable reasonable limit.

Or even driving with VSC on, or frequently triggering ABS, further loading brakes a lot.

Check fenton's electric supercharger thread over at ft86club. It's both of more reasonable budget, and also is step above convenience wise then just "button", engages depending on accelerator usage letting batteries recharge when cruising. Due way cheaper & simpler to implement such, lesser power usage, it gets by with more reasonable batteries weight & cost wise, yet providing that extra oumph in SC fashion. Would be highly considerable upgrade .. if not almost year long wait times for it. Still, closer to reality if not the not-mass-produced availbility issues even with demand much bigger then offer and also good technology demonstrator. Imho there is big future to such .. if it also is accompanied with turbo-generator on exhaust. = Better economy then SC as exhaust gas energy is recycled, simpler to fit on existing engines/cars (as electric fan SC & electric turbine generator can be placed anywhere on intake/exhaust paths, due mechanical linkage not required. Heck, it can be placed even at rear muffler), +fine grained control & tunability possibility by ECU or other controllers. It might get a bit worse economy then classic turbo, but pros imho outweight cons. Immediate boost available (even at idle rpms :)), flexibility, ease of install not requiring cardinal intake/exhaust tubing mods ..

Rubber but a bit firmer are group-n ones. Subjectively i didn't felt much difference, bought them because one of stock one was due replacement anyway, with bearing binding. Though it's good thing, as they were also similar to stock NVH wise, what i wanted, as i bought & installed them to revert from cascam plates with pillowball (NVH increase from those on daily driven local sh***y roads got unbearable), but little difference also means imho little sense to buy them explicitly.

What are your goals? Getting camber adjustability? Bling reason? Remove play? "Harshness" wise all aftermarket ones will be same, all camberplates have pillow ball mount, thus change to NVH = same. Exceptions to this were subaru group-N sti mounts, also rubber ones but from more rigid rubber (but they won't give you extra camber and there is little change felt & reason to change from stock rubber mounts), and also whiteline com-c mounts, that supposedly would be the right thing (rubber used like in group-n, but have offset mount, allowing extra camber) .. if whiteline didn't got into problems with top mount bearing binding, that it couldn't sort out in several revisions of mount and finally decided to delist our cars as being compatible with those.

Pilot sport 4 OR Pilot sport 4S? From what i know, later for now due rather recent launch are available in only very limited sizes, almost none well fitting most commonly chosen wheels on our cars.

Best bit about rotation, if you haven't gone for arguable staggered width wheel setup (guessing, as still stock primacies mentioned), you can easily do it yourself. There is jack and wrench in the back, and you don't need to remount/rebalance tires. Just swap wheels front to rear. Remembering whining of friend with MR2, that had staggered setup as stock. Puts limits in tire/wheel choices, disallows rotation to even out wear to get most out of set. EDIT Hmm, though maybe not as simple with stock only tooling, if there is still tire repair kit instead of skinny spare, as something needed to temporary keep one end up, when other car end gets jacked up.

I'd rotate front with rear ones, then visit track to really kill them off :), then would get stock sized michelin PS4. Primacies are ok for learning car capabilities and more fun even with less stock power, but yes, imho not worth getting them again when 1st stock set is through. If nothing else, then because they are relatively expensive.

In for info on such mounts aswell, though would prefer something that can let mount cellphone via some brodit's or generic adjustable/universal mount, to use smartphone to film if wished. Headrest seems best place to film both track & driver inputs.

How heavy ring is on brakes if one isn't pushing at 10/10 pace? And what are average costs to expect for having a run (or day) there?

MX5 was a bit more fun driving then twins (i didn't feel roll limiting me in anyway. Yes, rolled more, but was easier & more fun to half-drift around curves). But it's also less practical/too small. Below my minimum practicality treshold, and i touched roof with head even w/o helmet, so i'm not regretting not getting MX5 instead, as car is only one i'm having now and dailydrive everywhere. Continuing same line, i'm sure Lotus 7 would be even more fun then MX5 & even less practical, but not willing to go that far.

Ade: but wet boiling points also seem rather high for best fluids like RT700 & even more so, SRF, even if/with moisture absorbed, not freshly flushed.

wasn't from dot4 ones best temps wise Torque RT700?

Ade: i did say - quality word for damper for coilovers w. stiffer springs. Imho it's more common at low budget offerings, where one usually needs to choose, daily driving comfort OR stiff track setup. Something like penskes imho can do both rather well

Varelco: B6 are meant for stock replacement. So should be not much different height/travel wise and designed to work with stock springs. Mostly meant for similar use (mostly daily driving) too. Think of a bit more capable, more comfortable .. OEM+. B8 should be almost 1:1 as B6 except they are for mild lowering. Imho Koni yellows should be not much different of B6 or B8. B14 .. no clue about their daily driving fitting, but at very least they should give drop, much more capability on track and adjustability. BTW, lower hight != worse comfort. For example among budget offerings often mentioned tein flex Zs are both lower then stock & with higher spring rates. And they are spoken of as more comfortable then stock. Quality damper + well matched rates-wise springs = more compliant ride. Sometimes even if spring rate is doubled. Haven't ever tried myself, but was funny reading about Tein SRC (not budget offering) being well spoken off by passengers driven in with reviewer and whom were surprised by actual very-stiff springrates it had. OEM are not the worst i've seen among all the cars, but they are far from ideal. After all, one of main priority if not THE main one for them was getting mass-produce parts down. P.S. From coilovers above basic budget ones one may also consider KW V1 & V3 offerings or even more expensive Ohlins R&T, if you mentioned that they should work with stock rubber top mounts.

"Depends". There are many resonated out there with very different noise levels. Imho question is a bit incorrect. In most cases resonators are used not so much to quieten in general, as to remove drone/rasp of specific frequencies, with main mufflers doing most of quietening job (i might be wrong of course). Exhaust "having resonators" imho should be compared to exactly same one but without them, not between different model exhausts of different manufacturers. There can be also loud as f*** catbacks with multiple resonators.

Subaru part number for foam bin seems to be 464-169H17. Scion FR-S'es ( & most probably GT86's too) part numbers: #1 , #2, #3

MY2017's foam bin for spare looks very much like Scion FR-S one. Scion used same part system as Toyota and has common part numbers for most of parts, so probably you can search also for FR-S parts for part number.

Ade: i've got a feeling that you take all that listed set of tools by habbit from past according experiences with cars back then or that you take racing very seriously and push that much that things will and do break frequent enough

Points mentioned in this thread may help. As it was decision of moment and my prior track skills/experience were completely absent, my first track day prep included full tank of fuel only :). As i drove rather slow w/o pushing much & limited to short 10-15m sessions (mentioned in forums as approximate heat capacity/session length for tracking with stock brakes), was good enough. Side gain of short sessions - you are not getting very tired with regular rest in between them, so doing less mistakes from mental & physical fatique. After few times added to that new brake pads & tires to replace worn ones & better brake fluid. By now i have also better for my taste dialed in alignment with bolts & rear LCA. But in general imho no mods should be done after at least few track days out there, to first get taste if and what you wish to improve, not blindly following others & modding heck out of it. For track driving just for fun and not going overboard with long sessions that would need eg. substantial brake upgrades, stock car is suprisingly capable. Thinking of adding brake cooling airducts on top, and that's about it. If you don't go for very serious upgrades, such as much grippier tires & forced induction, and if it's not for very competitive driving, one doesn't need much expensive upgrades to eg. suspension to get around. But IF, then yes. FI = higher speeds / more braking load to bleed off higher speeds. Grippy tires = more side-Gs, more roll, riding on bumpstops in lot of curves, worth stiffening up suspension (bushings/topmounts/coilovers (springs)). My "non car prep" or tooling brought along includes just thermos with coffee & something to check air pressure in tires. Jack and alike i can always borrow from others. Hmm, extra fuel in can might be handy, but not sure. When i'm through full tank, i may have already driven & tired enough, to not need much more. Good driving shues certainly nice thing to have (i use normal shoes for track, instead of sandals i wear daily most of summer. Who knows, maybe worth buying those sport driving shoes. Certainly sandals or stiff army boots are not the best for pedalwork ). Helmet? Only if required by track rules. Still haven't used much to visibility & comfort reducing from it. And i wish for roof to be a bit higher, if wearing helmet & still wanting best seating pose given limited steering wheel adjustability :(. At the end - to each his own. Everybody has different way of driving/different plans on track. One thing is something for fun & at limited budget & not compromising daily driven ride, another - taking it seriously & competitively. So are different track-prep ways for everybody, no wonder that responses will differ.

Rich: there were few threads about it. For example this. More pics with it fitted. There are two subaru 16", one that fits over our brakes, one that don't. And there is also 17" with many holes in wheel (one i have, and use also as storage bin, #1, #2, and mount place for fire extinquisher, to save cabin & boot space). This donut wheel costed me ~30eur in local subaru brakeyard, + these for mounting: Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT Y64777-0D060 (N/STK CUSHION, SPARE) - 13.71 + VAT Wheel in boot secured with Toyota Part# Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT From all of my driving experience i got flat on average once per two years. In all cases i could rely enough to get to destination or to closest tire shop where with big probability punctured one can be repaired (unlike one full of tire repair kit foam gunk, many shops refuse to deal with, and that hasn't helped in many puncture cases dispite what statistics say that it should) for cheap, to not worry of having just one tire of different type/wear level or to not spend extra on buying at least two same tires for complete one end replacement. As it rare enough occasion to need it, i see not enough reason to lessen boot's space and bring extra weight for all the other days per those years. P.S. It's also written in manual, but just for any case reminding: on cars with limited slip diff (ours too) you should put wheel that differs from other side on car's end without it (it's same for FWD cars with LSD diff, just for other end). Even small differences in wheel size can result in diff working all the time like in turn, even when you drive straight, overheating and quickly wearing out. So if you puncture rear one, advisable to mount one front wheel in it's place & put spacesaver in front. Hint #2: as it's rarely used many tend to forget .. it's advisable at least once per year check air pressure in spare too. It doesn't feel funny if when finally after many years one needs it, it's flat too, lol