Church

Grip driving also is while less flashy, fastest. But there is most grip from tire to get when it's near slipping limit. And better one learns that grip limit budget to use fully on braking/sideforces/accelerating, so that willingly can balance near it and knows by reflexes what inputs and to what extent needed for that or to save/correct when one looses it. Just throwing on grippiest possible ones = imho harder to learn that. Just like many new drivers are used for nannies to save them and wouldn't know what to do if without. Same story about overtyring.

"allowed window to drop too far and couldn't get it back up again" - reset procedure helps this. Just that i didn't know about it back then and had to drive with window open to dealership. In winter. Very windy and very cold if in winter and if at speed above 60kmh on speedo. I wonder though if it would have worked right away or if it needed for something to thawn off first. I'm guessing that it's rather former, due window not being completely unmovable, but rather movable one way only, down. When complained about problem, that it's too undrivable/cold due this and i don't want to leave car that can be easily got in by thieves/snow and so on parked in public spot.. dealership's mechanic walked out, made all-knowing-superiority face, did reset procedure with first down & keep hold few sec, then up and few sec, telling that it's "to reset powered window controller" and i drove away, as they of course didn't charge for this "fix". I guess this might be common to other cars with framless windows doors too. At very least lowering when opening and rising back when closing is thing i've later on heard about other cars from different vendors with frameless door windows too (supposedly to lessen chance shattering glass and to not make unpleasant feel in ears with pressure change on closing), so if not the reset procedure itself, then at least frozening & misdetection of obstacle to glass closing might be common for them too. Friend with legacy outback had experienced such issues long before me. P.S. Imho procedure don't need to keep pressed button for full 10sec. IIRC less (~3sec) did the job for me too.

I'd be very careful with 10.5" width. It's very possible that in several setups more then probably it will rub on fender and/or arc, requiring also very careful tire choice, specific camber choice (not necessarily best for handling, but targeting mostly to not rub (eg. seen alignment with more neg. camber rear for that)), streched tire choice, coilover purchase (stock ones have bigger diameter coils, more probable rubbing), maybe limiting steering angle. Maybe even wide body installation. IIRC most seen wide wheel setups are about 9.5" on these cars (staggered setups aside). Above even that one and especially 10.5"? One has to spend much more and accept some compromises. Given that in beginning you started to think about wider wheels for more grip due forced induction, remember, that it's more tire rubber compound that affect grip, width not THAT much (wider wheel - same mass less distributed over wider area .. not that big of increase of real tire contact patch) as one may think arithmetically comparing numbers. Eg. there are many tires of 205 width that will be more grippier then stock primacies. Get some MPSS/MPS4/AD08R/RS3/RE71R/Star Specs/Rival-S and you'll be amazed of their grip even at modest widths. So overall, i'd think of wheels of 8-8.5, not more then 9.5" width and tires of 225-245 size but of better/grippier type. No fitment/rubbing issues to think of, cheaper tires (and wheels), even lighter wheels (and tires too, and less susceptible to aquaplane in wet) vs of same model but insanely too wide with that turning as main goal and start compromising things. Also .. getting 300-400hp (imho more modest 250hp don't require insanity in width) and fat barrels for wheels and wanting just flooring go pedal no matter where and how is not exactly best way to drive. Even on stock car imho one should better learn finer control of brakes/steering/accelerator, then turning car to something like point and shoot american muscle car. It gives some satisfaction in itself to push out of very same car better results just by better control.

My choice was relocating usb port to glove box. Don't like having wiring clutter in interior & not liking tempting potential thieves with expensive gadgets in clear sight.

BTW, in case someone of you like me buys used aftermarket wheels that are discontinued (and/or manufacturer (or rebrand reseller) is not around anymore), and wheels lack center caps, so you cannot find out what type/model one should buy from looking at model on back of old caps, at the end i found this place of universal caps solving issue. They simplify measures to be taken to get right cap, due each one having many legs of different hight. Prior this i tried these, but no matter how close i tried to get measurements down, purchased ones were of poor fit and i already lost two of them falling off when driving over bad roads. I guess that there might be chance for some TWS caps to fit my Technicraft/Taneisya wheels due TWS being Taneisya's consumer wheels daughter-brand, but i did't want to buy several TWS caps sets off ebay for 100eur each to try which one fits or not.

Hmm, but if hit was big enough to overcome tension from fully torqued bolts/nuts, isn't there bigger chance for something else give in first? Be it wheel itself damage or bending somewhere in suspension?

I usually run at suggested by manual pressures daily driving all around a year, be it on winter or summer tires, with checking pressure monthly, with two exceptions, both related to track. - i let out some air due heat that gets in tires after track abuse - when i hadn't yet installed camberbolts & lca and had stock alignment instead of wished one, i let out more air from front tires, as cheap hack to change grip bias to deal out some understeer/add more grip to front. Less pressure = less sharp steering though due more sidewall flex. For what one would want to run less then spec pressure? If it's to change/fix something elsewhere (eg. lack of grip for currently used tires, or stock grip balance not to one's taste), then despite cheapness of such 'mod', it's better done at right place, instead of compromising fuel economy & steering's sharpness. (one may gain more comfort though).

That weight is too small to be taken into account. How much SC weights? How much car weights? How big difference can be felt by human "butt dyno" (placebo aside)? I doubt you feel difference in weight shift of car vs full or almost empty tank, even though that weight difference is 3 times SC weight.

Under 18% bias change vs stock bias? "recommend use different brake pads in rear"? These both bits would tell me to stay away from these kits, as i translate them that brake vendor haven't bothered about brake bias or has targeted with kit some very specific suspension & aero setup. Essex's Sprint & Endurance kits were within 1-2% from stock bias, other kits like willwood/RR and so on IIRC within 5%, and that's with same compound pads front-rear. P.S. Easier to loose traction with power-oversteer after installing forced induction has nothing to do with brake bias. FI doesn't impact it in anyway. Suspension parts, adjustments and front-rear downforce from aero parts does (striking out weird possibilities like staggered tire choice and front:rear weight balance, which i doubt to change noticeably from weight of FI parts).

My bet would be on coil bind too. And not that it doesn't happen at higher speeds, just that at higher speed that noise drowns in road/engine noise, but is heard during low/quiet speed. Maybe you can visit some wide parking lot and try few maneuvers forth & back steering from right to left. 2nd version - something with wheel bearings.

So is it "while reversing", or "while wheel is turned full-lock"?

Luckily our stockers are rather good "for stock". And if one keeps track session length to reasonable 10 minutes, imho at least for NA power one often can get by just fine with track pads & fluid change only (at least judging by brake fade) unlike stock brakes of .. almost majority of cars excluding exotics & sporty cars of higher price level. Airducts may add even more life in stockers (strongly considering Velox's kit purchase). I'd still be happy to upgrade to Essex's AP Sprint kit to save on wearables and prolong sessions (though >15minutes subjectively makes me too tired/loosing concentration), but unfortunately local latvian street-legality technical rules are too strict and i don't want kit to bolt off back to stockers prior inspection each year and then back :/

Funny, that some of mechanical noises don't seem annoying at all, rather on contrary, make feeling more involved/immersed. I will not go for forced induction nor i will buy very expensive sequential gearboxes, but always loved turbo whistling/supercharger and straight cut gear whines/tire squeel when on grip limit. It may annoy in long cruising travels, but otherwise make feel like being in rally car.

Single clunk when from stationary engaging in gear, most probably is diff loading as Keethos said. During first drives it seemed weird due not seeing such in other cars driven, but now i don't notice it, too used to it.

For plugging: From inside cabin hole where one's sitting right legs are (not far from clutch pedal on RHD?), roll up a bit carpet. For increasing loudness: From other side at engine compartment in that hole there is inserted small 7-10cm angled tube, that depending on filling, slightly affects engine noise (and some road noise) passed in, as it connects cabin & rest of "sound generator", that is connected to side of air intake after airfilter. DIY guide for RHD.

Those two ones were the only ones mentioned in one ft86c thread about aftermarket wheels that fit OE airbag and are placed closer to driver, so i guess choice is among those two only, unless one takes a plunge and goes for completely custom racing wheel/quick disconnect hub and so on, with much wider choice .. and deletion of airbag/possible street use legality issues

I'd love to get one with silver inserts as in Key's, but with branding removed/deplaced with single red or yellow center line marking similar to TRD's, but probably only option is to custom trim it with leather or alcantara. There are people, among whom it may look cool, to have outstandingly visible branding, but so there are people that value OE look style that doesn't cry rice. :/ I wonder if J-Luth provides some custom-make order possibility, as both smaller wheel & placement closer to driver via offset sounds very nice features to have to enhance track use/seating pose comfort.

Touch & Go interface is too uncomfortable to use. I find myself diverting too much attention and for too long when dealing with radio/music selection interfaces. Yes, one shouldn't do that unless stationary, but it wouldn't be that bad if done without taking hand from wheel and if without turning eyes from road to glance if you press right too small buttons that need to be pressed for too long or too many times (eg. to scroll long list of albums that may fit on flashdrive with mp3s).

Check this thread. But i'd probably would wait untill someone tries (and hopefully succeeds ) retrofitting MY2017 steering wheel with controls. Imho that should involve way less DIY customizing work.

Is Key's only one that also brings steering wheel closer to driver? (IIRC somewhere J-Luth's was mentioned as such too?) Can it be ordered without (imho slightly rice-ish) "Key's racing" writing on it?

Minion: it's upto late MY2014 IIRC, when in ours got back to "normal" not eco-something uber-expensive gas. There should be sticker on bonnet underside, if 1234yf, then unluckily expensive gas needed.

That sounds to me not as much "except Ohlins", but rather "coilovers, that can be used with stock rubber top mounts". At very least KW V1/V3 (&RCE Tarmac Zero & Tarmac 2 on those), Bilstein B6/B8/B14/B16, Koni Yellows should fit the bill. And if it's for more track tailored and with price/performancy in mind .. i'm not sure Ohlins are best choice. They are not cheap, you won't be able to buy discontinued older set with square 6K rates, instead much softer 4K front/3K rear set. Konis should be fine choice .. if you are able to source from shop, that buys them in big batches and is able to select set without too big differences between dampers in it. RCE ones would be my first choice (as more track tailored KWs with good price/performance), but i wouldn't like warranty/serviceability hassles of US shop product. Not too familiar with Bilsteins. Probably would get KWs. 1. MPS4 (or MPS4S, if available), or AD08R, or RE71R, or RE11, or Z2SS or RS3, depending on what threadwear tires are allowed. For daily driving or trackdays with focus on fun, i'd prefer stock width, not get too much grip. To get most grip for competitiveness sake one can go for wider ones depending on what width is allowed, but grippier rubber of tires listed above should already net most extra grip needed. 2. Remember also flush with higher boiling point brake fluid, not just pads. Castrol SRF/Torque RT700/Project Mu G4. If you didn't mention aftermarket BBKs, those probably not allowed? Was going to suggest fitting air ducts to get most out of stock brakes, but that's not too cheap, and not sure, if brakes get hot enough during sprint races, not HPDE/track. 3. See beginning of post. 4. Of course camber bolts & (if allowed) rear LCAs for negative camber are highly advisable. Very good price/performancy mod (eg. camberbolts in both slots + SPC(/whitline/eibach) LCAs). Unfortunately i cannot advise only rubber mount option that allowed more camber, Whiteline Com C, where whiteline tried few iterations of getting bearings right, to not bind/fail, but failed and later discontinued Com Cs for our cars. About the only very slight improvement possible with still rubber mounts might be Group N mounts with stiffer rubber in them. BTW, stock "sized" springs/coilovers of bigger diameter may limit maxing out negative camber a bit, as spring perch may scrape to body at some point. For squeezing most out of alignment, worth doing it with you sitting in car & doing full corner balancing. What camber/toe to get may differ for what you aim and what your priorities are. For DD & track/HPDE i'd probably would get most (but same on sides) neg. camber i can get with bolts in front, for 0.5 less in rear, zero toe front, 0.1 toe-in in rear. For sprint? Not sure. Maybe even some toe-out in front, even though i wouldn't want that for DD/track. 5. If you have lot of money, add to that also close ratio gear set. If FD can help, depends on track layout, but probably it will do more good then bad in most/average, for still NA car. 6. Again if money no object and more track oriented, my choice probably would be Aftermarket air filter+Ace Type A/250 or CS400 header with Delicious Tune OTS ecutek tunes (&+E85). If car was LHD, i'd go for A/350, but yours probably RHD? For best price/performancy - aftermarket drop-in filter + E85 ethanol fuel + OFT tune. Imho not worth bothering with intakes and rest of exhaust, especially if price/performancy matters. 7. Of good price/performancy/quality/weight wheels are Enkei RPF1. Of less quality but even cheaper and of lower weight - Kosei K4R. OR - forged wheel sets bought used .

So if it's more about small performance mods, not comfort ones, then imho mod #1 should be camberbolts front / LCA rear and slight negative camber :).

Hmm, of course i heard it only when watching few years ago Initial D, but it didn't sound as something very annoying to me back then. I wonder why i thought that it was for rpms, not speedo. Probably memory playing tricks on me.

Clutch pedal bite point adjustment. Center armrest. Backup camera. Donut spacesaver wheel instead of tire repair kit. Mobile phone holder with charger. All weather floormats at least in front. Mudflaps. Sharkfin antenna. Wide angle side mirrors.