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Will you be using them with stock Touch headunit? If so, if you don't mind, try out first with only amp but speakers left stock. I had theory/wondered if stock HU can be somewhat saved with help of amp, due unamplified enough outputs, hence lot of distortions at normal loudness level. On my '99 corolla's two oem speakers in doors sound was WAY better after installment of alpine mp3 HU with amplified 2x45W outputs then multi-speaker stock sound system in these coupes, hence i wonder if one can noticeably enhance sound with changing/upgrading as little as possible.

Sound deadening .. then it's worth to do it thoroughly, not just doors .. but that probably will add noticeably weight, no? I'd prefer to enhance sound without any worsening for main car function, even if slight. Also somewhat used by now to less sound insulatation and louder road noises in this car for that to be felt as big drawback. "Because racecar" [tm]

Seems a bit weird to me aswell. Usually most align so that front is -0.5 more negative, from what i've seen. Like for DD 1.5-2 front/1-1.5 rear or further -0.5-1 more to each if for track ..

rob275: but even that slight trunk volume reduction via OEM+ sub seems for me too much given little trunk space since beginning, due smallish coupe nature. I want to have all there is for bringing stuff around, if needed. Hence currently i'm eyeing new oem+ kit .. but one without trunk sub (C3). About the only space i would be willing to give up is inside of spare tire as in JBL's setup. Also not liking that this sub imho will cover also top knob of potential in future coilover.

Gringosteve: no, i live & drive in Latvia :). Visiting here because this forum is in english (one of two foreign languages i know little bit alongside russian), because i was interested in one product originated here (Jay's set of backup camera), and because UK is in EU, hence lot of stuff like product availability, main shops, legal issues, shipping policies, pricing, warranty issues are more comon then eg. something over pond @US or down under @AU. Still, thanks for tips that it's configurable option. Will keep that in mind. Not bothered too much about it yet, once or twice a day pressing two buttons more is no biggie.

Some modes also automatically switch on AC and switch off recirc, if one has left auto on (wasn't it after 'thaw front window' button?). In winter i often 'fix' that manually after cold starts, for car to heat up sooner. See no need to defog with AC or use outside even colder air, when it's still minus temps inside and i'm still brushing snow & ice from car exterior. During normal drive .. yes, just as manual says, if windows are fogged, AC deals with that, and rather quickly (=colder air directed to windows prevents condensation on it even with humid air inside, so in few mins both front and side windows demist). I still don't drive with AC always on, finding that in fully heated up car after longer drive windows mostly don't need that if i have recirc off. It seems somewhat wrong in my mind to have heater & AC at same time, just like putting hot pot into fridge. Fog? - AC on. None? - off.

I'm also thinking, that door speaker upgrade, if only two are changed, would bring better results. Both placement, and native mounting sizes wise.

+ It's better returns per investments to get two higher quality speakers then big pile of crappy ones at same budget. At least that is the reason i got good stereo setup @home, instead of going for mediocre surround one. I'm guessing it can be applied to cars aswell.

Endeed. When one looks on pricing of something like official JBL Sound Pack option, or OEM+ offerings, that sounds just like spare change. BTW, among oemaudio+ offerings i noticed recent addition that seemed interesting to me, their new C3 set (amp, front tweeters, front mid speakers, front woofers, front rear speakers). Of course, Reference 450Q might do better due sub in trunk, but what i wished - something not using any trunk space/volume that already is not too big in our coupes. Price is extraorbitant as most their products, but at it's custom tailored for our cars and will save some time on experimenting / testing multiple individual component combinations to get good sound at some degree of assurance, then for some maybe worth it. OEM Audio+ Isn't particularly expensive when you look at the fact it comes with DSP & Amp along with 2 way comps (now 3-way, but i'm unsure how they wire in UK application as we simply don't have the loom there) Components and 8" Sub. I've had it for some time and would say that if you wanted a reasonably priced system that is a simply plug & play kit then go for it. I was going to do a proper build but couldn't be arsed in the end so went for it. If you wanted another similar aftermarket kit you'd be paying the same price anyway.

If i'd need more capability out of stock brakes then simple fluid and pads change, i'd probably skip DIY disk/caliper change, and go BBK route. Easier to ensure that kit is assembled with everything assembled/working together for particular car & it's specifics with no changes to brake bias and so on. Brakes are important enough subsystem to limit a bit swaping freely it's parts like disks/calipers without lot of care/time/testing done how it works together. All of that is already done with BBKs, yes, at a price, but you can rely on all it's parts assembled as system, not picked up by random from parts bin. If you go as far as changing disks and calipers (and probably had also other, less intrusive upgrades, like steel braided lines, pads with more bite, higher boiling temp fluid, maybe even brake ducts), total sum spent on brakes is not that much further off BBK prices.

FI in future? That changes lot of things depending on choice if SC or Turbo. 1) I wouldn't bother with exhaust upgrades at all. All needed power more then enough can come from forced induction, as these cars are relatively light. Why spend then extra £1-2K on exhaust? In example of Cosworth, don't buy stage 1 NA upgrades, go stright for stage 2.0 SC kit. Even low power FI will be 1.5x-2x gains of max @NA and with mountain of torque early on. About the only thing worth installing prior FI kit purchase is tune (eg. ecutek) & aftermarket filter. Those bits you can reuse with turbo later too. 2) if you insist on upgrading exhaust bits, in case if it will be turbo (hence with need to connect to exhaust path in header part) - don't buy headers. Turbo kit most probably will come with own, and very few aftermarket headers can be (at least partially) be used for turbo aswell. Supercharger is on intake only, it will see some extra gains with exhaust upgrading too and is "compatible" with all headers .. but see (1.). 3) Loudness (as heard by neighbours & cops :)) is affected by: a.) cat deletion (and at lesser extent with replacement with HF cats) b.) lack or removal of resonators c.) bigger diameter piping. As 2.5" should be good to 250-300whp imho no need for 3" for this reason. d.) and on contrary to first three bits turbo makes exhaust quieter. If you had stayed NA and had bought/installed catless header, as you brought noise issues at all, then it probably matters enough for you, hence after catless header i would leave stock catback (will also save £), or at most get Q300 as quietest aftermarket one. Most of others + catless headers = LOUD. Saw cases of installing stock back, if installed catless header after installing louder aftermarket catback before that. But as you brought up FI .. (1.), so imho no need to buy catless header.

If you want to spend less, don't waste money on intake. Aftermarket drop-in airfilter will net most of possible intake gains for fraction of cost. Upgrading exhaust header (manifold) to good aftermaket catless one + tune will net most gains and depending on header choice may eliminate torque dip hence it's imho better choice. It will also make exhaust louder, so i'd probably would stop at that. In general i highly advise reading opening post of this thread to familiarize with options/gains/prices. Should answer most of questions, at least once did for me.

Nicebisquit: funny, but i find that this car doesn't look bad with 16" too. For example scroll through pics in this thread or this. At one point i very strongly considered 16" wheels (such as these , just 4.82(!) kg, half the weight of stock 17" (9.2kg, and they actually are rather light for their size)). Hadn't done yet final decision only because performance tire choice of that size is a bit poorer, and that i guesstimate that trend to grow in future. While i hadn't yet finalized my choice if going smaller size, i'm certain that i won't go upsize above 17".

BTW, it's worth to distinguish if "handles well" is by own opinion on what makes good or better handling eg. if views are based on grip driving on track, or it's as imho OP asked - to stay similar to stock handling nature, which we enjoyed when had our first test drives prior purchase :). There is reason, why low grip tires for toyobarus were chosen as stock OE. For example for me - better track lap times due more grip certainly would be degradation of "handling" if it comes together with loosing or lessening low-speed power oversteer fun, instead getting sideways only at higher speeds and more suddenly, not progressive. My skills are too lacking to handle that.

Somewhat vaguely it seems to me from your post that from different handling aspects you don't want to go for too grippy tires to loose ease of power oversteering even with stock NA power. Imho simplest would be to not go too overboard with overly wide wheels/tires. As stock primacies are relatively of low grip/low rolling resistance eco tires, then even generic tires of normal/grippier compound but of same stock 215/45/17 will give you more grip then stock. More sidegains with not going for too wide - cheaper tires, less prone to aquaplaning, lower weight of wheels+tires with gains it brings. So do you really need those x9 wheels and wider tires? Even if aftermarket wheels will be within weight of stock even at bigger sizes why not take opportunity to shed weight? So how about some 17x7,x7.5, up to x8 max of some low weight cast rim like Enkei RPF1/Kosei K4R + stock size but better tires of preferred brand/model, only taking care of right offset for your intended arch filling. If painting stock + spacers .. maybe also worth installing longer studs for extra ensurance.

rob275: waiting for ace's w. 350 overpipe .. but can it be fitted on RHD? I thought only 150 & 250 could, no? Mike@TD.co.uk: is that Nameless' header? EDIT Oh, on second look, clearly isn't, as Nameless/Cossworth was 4-2-1, not 4-1 as in pic, though with similar U bends up (but for primary runners) ..

Regarding comparing different dynos .. simplest thing is to have some baseline .. eg. "unmodified stock car". And comparing gains not by absolute numbers but rather retative gains in % above that baseline. Of course that's still rough compare with many variables unknown, as not just dynos can read different, difference may be made up also from ambient humidity/temps run is performed, baseline cars may produce diferent output, "unmodified stock" may mean different things eg. for some it's with drop in filter and tune, for some - completely stock and so on ..

Oiled filters supposedly should last almost lifetime, just wash & reoil .. but i'm a bit sceptical on that. Normal paper airfilters needs changing of course. One can partially clean them up with eg. that airline blast, but they will never work as good as they were new. I guess, that they still will filter even with all built up inside pores dust .. but they will be less effective/passing less air with more resistance to flow. If you are ok with car slightly underperforming, then such airblasted probably are ok for longer time. I'd prefer to change them at car manufacturer recommended intervals. It's not that big of a spending to try save on it.

Don't write off placebo effect, as you may "notice" changes also simply due expecting them from upgrade :).

From what i know, when gains are most (on completely stock car), aftermarket drop-in filter can net up to +5whp. It's just 2.5%, hardly can be felt by "butt dyno". But then again, it's also as cheap, to compensate very slight gains for upgrade.

I wouldn't concern with any of mentioned upgrades, at least for first year , or wouldn't call it as concern/worry .. - spoiler may work a bit at higher speeds, but it's not that you will often corner on >120-150kmh in daily driving to notice difference - stock enkey wheels are not too heavy .. only if you hate look of them that much .. generic advise to choose/go lighter. Usual bits apply of not worth going for staggered setup, and that in most cases you may not need going for very wide tyres if you stay at stock NA power levels but wish more grip then stock Primacies provide, tyres of better compound will provide that, even of stock sizes. Burn through stock primacies, familiarise with car, think of upgrades after that. - same with stock suspension. Not making wonders but surprisingly capable for stock. As for being lower .. better be reasonable with that. "Better"? Better for what? Define "better". Will car be track day only car or you will daily drive it too? What is your budget, what is that you wish to change from stock handling/dampening wise? - Familiarise yourself with car as is, don't blindly throw upgrades on it if in some cases they may turn out not what you really wished, or that may require other upgrades to fix issues changing these may bring.

My bet would be on fuel pump aswell. Diff preload clunk when engaged in gear is totally different. What else there is to sound like this when slightly rising rpms above idle while stationary? Not suspension, not transmission. Except maybe something dismounted/not fixed properly and resonating/vibrating at certain rpm frequency. By chance, variance in loudness is not related to how full was tank on different days?

Gringosteve: Simply ecutek had way more info and way sooner available to them, unlike Tactrix/OFT/romraider crowd, that had to reverse-engineer everything by themselves. Yes, they managed to find most of important features, like finding/mapping/changing performance related tables for eg. cam & fueling timing, even some extra features like flat foot shifting/launch control (at least on some tune versions), but some features remain exclusive to ecutek.

I would disagree a bit. Primary cat in header usually is more restrictive .. or maybe not more, but at least hurts performance most due it's placement not far from cylinders to heat up sooner to working temps. Hence in bolt-on mods thread catless header is mentioned as biggest NA power single improvement. When 1st is gone, removal of 2ndary doesn't play too big of a role (after all, one may soon start hitting diminishing returns from exhaust/intake upgrades, when closing up to +35-40whp). And i've seen some guys putting back stock pipe with stock 2nd cat, when their highflow aftermarket one didn't let to pass emission tests. Drawback going catless header instead of 2ndary cat delete, is that due primary cat missing one may see thrown P0420 CEL after some time. That check can be disabled in tune though (no sense in NOT getting tune with aftermarket header).

Close gear set, which makes gear ratios closer to each other .. for toyobarus it makes 1st and 2nd gear "longer", closer to 3rd, making them more usable on track, not abruptly redlining too soon. Ratios chart.