Church

Issue of noise most often is from unbedded brakes, often from using too track oriented pads that don't get upto temps to bed properly in just daily driving. In such case "downgrading" pads can help better for car that is not tracked, or for dual-use car - two specialized for use pad sets to switch between.

imho if coilpack starts to throw issues on older twins, right path to take would be not to replace for same and heat insulation, but rather bite the bullet and install redesigned coil packs and wiring harness from later years. For me even after few years/several trackdays no issues with original ones yet, but that's the path i'm decided to take if it will happen.

It's not so much width that changes price, as to how common that specific sizing is. 225/45/17 is more popular in several high-numbers generic family cars vs our stock sizing of 215/45/17 (niche coupes like our cars are sold in relatively much much lower numbers to impact significantly offered sizings/commonality/price), hence i see in 2/3 to 3/4th of cases 225 "of same tire" being cheaper. Now reducing profile height from tire sizing properties as usually happens for tires of similar outer diameter but to fit on larger wheels like 18,19 and so on, commonly rises price, as it's more expensive for manufacturer to design/make almost as much capabilities in lower sidewall height.

Drawback of extra camber from lowering, that it mostly happens in rear, not front, with mcferson struts .. and front camber is which is lacking most on these cars, for track use or for reducing OE alignment understeer-ish bias. Then again .. if one will get alignment done anyway, why not purchase single set of front camberbolts prior that?

It might be also other way around, cause & effect wise, oil pipes being blocked, and due insufficient oiling failure of bearings :). For example, if too rich used sealant pieces falling off and blocking oil passages, as some dealerships botched valve spring recall warranty work, which later on resulted in fsck-up of engine/bearings and such ..

At one point i also was in camp of lightening weight including from those grams in lugnuts and got l/w alu lugnuts. But then i started to go to track and change wheels more often, including using powertools. They don't take such abuse well and now 1/5th of them has thread stripped. If you only daily your car and at most do seasonal tire/wheel change twice a year and explicitly tell tire shop to only tighten with hand tools, duraluminum lugnuts should last sufficiently. Otherwise suggest to get chromoly steel ones, which also should be cheaper, if changed looks is only thing you are after. Steel ones sometimes are smaller though, 17mm, not 19mm as our stock, so worth reminding that stock lugnut wrench in boot from emergency spare kit might not work with them.

There supposedly should be "advantage" of being able to fit clearance wise slightly wider wheels in rear then in front for those few who's goal is to fit maximum wide barrels for wheels. Going that wide has drawbacks/issues of it's own, but staggered may help such goal. Also some going forced induction, go by hunch of what they imagine, that "if thing changed is more power/torque">it's RWD>i need more grip & thus wider tires in rear only, forgetting cons of staggered setup, and forgetting that acceleration is just one of driving aspects, that suspension/nannies/brake bias of these cars were not designed with staggered setup in mind, and one can do such simple thing, as wider tires/wheels both in front and rear. I know i hated understeer with square setup and stock alignment on track. I know importance of retaining brake bias. I have limited budget thus can only welcome things that let me save onto something. Hence for various combined reasons advising against going staggered, where one pays $ to make car worse.

Highly suggest against staggered setup. Even more so if with stock alignment, which is understeer biased already, making it even more understeer-ish seems .. unwise. Also slight diameter differences may mis-trigger nannies due misdetected differences by wheel slip sensors. And you'll loose ability to get more out of tires via rotating. If also wheels are staggered, it will make harder to sell off wheel set later on and/or buy replacements. One should be happy that these cars have square stock tire/wheel sizing. Why go for cons of staggered setup intentionally?

Just that each case of battery drained flat further decreases it's max holding charge. If it had been few times, imho current battery is already .. FAR from optimal, whatever the alternative charging uses employed.

State also budget. At lower budget i'd probably think of something like tein flex-z. Wouldn't go even lower/cheaper. P.S. suggest to not lower more then inch. Our cars don't have much suspension travel to begin with, the lower one go, the stiffer springrates should be, so comfort/compliance will suffer, suspension geometry will need to be fixed with roll center kit, and diff riser bought to reduce extra wear on CV joints due overlowering.

There is some range of tire widths that can fit of specific wheel width. For example, consider this chart, minimum, optimum, maximum, they all are "safe" to fit. Going too wide tires for wheel width will add too much extra flex to sidewalls, handling will suffer, not worth doing unless one is fixated on fitting absolutely widest tires one can for whatever reasons. Going too (hella-)stretched also not advisable, as it will make harder to fit tires w/o hacks, provides only arguable looks for stance crowd, and one will increase risks of tire debeading from wheels, big no-no on track. Then there is common preference of many that track their cars, eg. to tend to fit tires with slight stretch, that is still reasonable, yet extra removes some slop from sidewall flex, sharpening up steering (at slight loss of comfort/compliance). And in this case is i guess tire shop worker generic subjective beliefs of what width goes well and what doesn't.

How about displaying gauges on smartphone?

Hmm, why compare all-season tires with lot of thread sypes & soft rubber compound vs UUHP summer tires? Load rating certainly plays too little part versus other differences between these tires in example? You may get XL rated winter tire, and it will feel like crap in summer vs non-XL summer tire. Never concentrate on one singled out parameter and decide on it governing every tire property that matters.

Subjective thing. I've heard about 3/4 of people telling they feel change, and 1/4 that it was waste of money. In defense of MCB i have to say that it's not that expensive, can be thrown in among other ordered parts in bigger order, and simple to install (unlike braided lines). So even if it doesn't net much, not much lost either.

Yeah, every new car may mean getting used to .. depending on how quickly one learns it may differ, but imho one should daily drive at least for month, to properly get used to different specifics. Clutch bite point, brake pedal, car turning radius, visibility, optimum gear switch rpms .. even blind operation of misc switches/selectors eg. for light/wiper modes/cruise control/audio unit control .. I too am in camp that overassisted brakes with high initial brake bite are evil, and less (but still assisted even on ours) are better, as simply allow braking just the right amount, without neck-braking "dive". I hate when brake actuation is NOT like in our cars EDIT choupolo: long travel sounds like you may still have air in system imho. as for race car .. big brakes and high friction pads is like .. one third of picture. The biggest impact of high braking for racing cars is high tire grip, both due specific grippy tires, and also due extra aero-downforce adding grip. Car can stop as quick as tires allow. Brakes are in there only if they are sufficient to fully exploit grippy tires (eg. braking till locking(or triggering ABS) tires), or not able to and leaving some braking distance on table. BBK just adds increased heat capacity and rate of cooling to that, allowing to brake more times w/o overheat. Master cylinder brace is like braided lines, feel-wise. Some feel some difference, some don't. Do it flexes where it's mounted? Yes. Do lines expand a bit? Yes. But as for you feel wise it still ends with specific pressure (which you remember more in muscle memory, then brake pedal travel, which those MCB & braided lines may affect by removing or reducing mentioned flexes) on pedal vs specific braking force. Some feel it, and say that MCB/braided lines improve precision .. and some don't. It certainly won't fix your long pedal travel before bite, caused by something else. I have installed MCB & braided lines .. and by my subjective "butt dyno" i didn't feel much difference to be honest. Different brake pads - certainly different brake feel. MCB & lines? Very little, might be also from expecting change and from wish to justify purchase

What's with getting used to mirrors? I linked where you can buy auto-fold module already? BTW, main reason for me to buy that module was to have extra visual cue that car is locked, as mine doesn't beep when locking, just flashing turn signals, easy to miss quiet locks turn sound in loud & bright daylight environment.

Actually i'd forgive in UI most bugs but two. - What use is touch screen, if i cannot point with finger position in played track for quick forward? - And why it was that hard to implement to normal browse/play dir by dir structure files are grouped with, not just by mp3 tags?

For mirror folding, here. Stock headunit audio quality is rather awful (then again stock speaker audio quality is awful too). And certainly don't get overpriced satnav option for stock headunit. I'd think of aftermarket headunit & from cheaper speaker upgrades Focal IS165TOY set. From usability/comfort things highly suggest getting some rear camera to ease tight spot parallel parking (rear visibility relatively sucks).

Jay: AFAIK "normal" MY2017 still has 17x7 (though of different looks). It's if with performance package (brembos, shocks and different wheels), then also 17x7.5 wheels for brake clearance.

pros of 225/45/17 - it's more common sizing, and in several cases due that tire set might be cheaper then of our stock sizing of 215/45/17. slight con - while it's still safe to run 225 tires on our stock 17x7 wheels, there will be no risk of tire debeading from wheel, some extra sidewall sloppiness will increase. Some people preferring sharper steering feel usually tend to go to narrower side from tire width range safe for wheel width, via slight stretch. No comments on Prestivo tires, never heard about them. My own preference is to get from top tires in class i wish to get them of. In my eyes tires & brakes are most important bits on every car, and not worth compromising/saving on.

Imho both might be good purchase .. but i'd probably would have gone for MY2017 if both are affordable (except not liking "special edition" bit, which means rare paint, and thus unability to find painted parts from breakeryard & some prepainted aftermarket parts not available in such color (eg. IIRC TRD - coming only for red/black/white ones, or unpainted & requiring custom painting afterwards)). Imho 4.7K for half a mileage + upgrades of MY2017 are worth it. But if both are bought via leasing, not complete cache payment .. i guess i'd go for older one, especially due mentioned 2y warranty that levels a bit.

Question - should you at all? Or what alternative is best according goals? Can you state more clearly your expectations/goals you want to get? What you want to get by those mods? Just lowering for looks? Specific handling change? For specific use (DD? track?)? Modding for sake of modding seems nonsense way to spend money. Doing specific mod to fullfill specific wish/goal is another thing.

I see problem that +5K to price may halve even current sales numbers. So no matter what some may add to wishlist .. if they change formula of "good enough for cheap" .. oncoming new one has high chance being sold in small numbers like that of supra and due that soon canceled due being sales flop. And the more performance added, the higher price and higher competition. If there are very small number of cars made in current class, there are loads up there. Carmakers are into this not for charity but to make money. And developing costs a lot. If it's not recouped with sales & profits ..

Yup, restyle ones both have same suspension, same springs, shocks, rollbars. Not 100% sure only on special editions like blue edition 86 & performance package brz-s though. There were different shocks then that of normal model in those packages, don't know if they are same between twins, but they might be the same too.

I almost missed rather important bit. Where is "normal" handbrake? Helloo electronic one 😕 What's next .. supra-alike no MT option?