Church

I know sure method to make 370Z better. Make it look like 350Z. Done.

It's 'GR' .. not generic 'Toyota', so those vents not that much out of place

That LCD screen shows that most probably greatly reduced capability of upgrade headunit, as too much integrated into new one. It's generic modern trend, but i hate it. Only thing i somewhat like, seats look like having a bit more side support. Oh, and i guess there will be less issues with side indicator flimsy mount in bumper. Though diagonal bumper/fender line also may mean bent fenders on slightest frontal contact. Exterior looks, certainly changed to worse.

Please, cut down on swearing. It seems that twins lightweight NA coupe is not what you wanted, but for many others it works/performs fine, but some specific product not fitting specific individual expectations doesn't exactly justify swearing. It's not fault of car that you want something different, just wrong purchase decision.

Not that sure. AFAIK new ones still came with 45Ah stock, but for many toyota replaced free of charge to 65Ah ones, if/when issues with flat battery appeared during warranty.

BTW, recalling one funny case of weird car handling. Lot of time was spent on debugging handling problem in suspension/alignment .. real issue was one of tires (of asymetric thread pattern) was mounted on wheel wrong way and i somehow didn't notice it after tire mount shop

While first limit on track usually are completely stock brakes, if/when you'll take tracking more often, next thing to mod worth doing - performance alignment (mostly more negative camber, especially front). Otherwise with stock alignment there is imho excessive understeer, a bit lacking grip and high tire outer sides wear. More camber helps with all that, making tire contact patch flat even with side-Gs mid turns taken high speed and tire sidewall flex. As minimum one or two camberbolt sets for front, if even more camber and in rear aswell, then one can throw pedders eccentric topmounts or powerflex front camber bushing in addition to camberbolts, and aftermarket rear adjustable LCA. Stock front camber is 0degrees, rear -1.1dg, "track" alignment would be nice with eg. -3dg front camber and -2.5 rear. If tracking is very rare, like just 1-2 per year, and most tire wear happens on street, not track, then maybe something interim, -1.5dg front, -1.1 rear like stock (this should be easily attainable with just single camberbolt set).

There is similar problem as with winter or summer tires. Both have different pros & cons and don't do well at not intended use. Track pads have high operating temps and stand well against track braking abuse reliably braking even if rotors are gloving red, but due that high temp range, when they are cold, they brake less (some still more though) when cold and rather then bed in (transfered material from heated pads as layer onto rotors) they scrub off bedded layer in few days .. ending with noise issues/loud squealing like idiot at every traffic light, increased wear of pads & rotors, and many of track pads dust more (like washing wheels every two days more). Street pads have much lower operating temp range, thus noise issue is rare, as they usually bed in well even with light average driving, they dust less, but one can easily overcook/glaze/crumble them if heavy abused on track. There are pads in-between, some call "hybrid" use pads .. but they are like all-season tires, jack of all trades, master of none. Somewhat still usable on street, and may take light tracking (like if not paired with very grippy tires, and for reasonably short 10-15min sessions). For example ferodo DS2500. If you plan to visit track, suggest to change also brake fluid to high-boiling-temps one, eg. as budget one motul rbf660, if more money, PMU G-Four 335, Endless RF650, Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC 64T. Higher end/boiling temps fluids are more hygroscopic though, and by absorbing moisture they degrade, with boiling temps dropping from new ("dry") to lower ("wet"), so i guess worth changing/flushing at least once per year. Best possible choice imho is to have two specialized sets and switch them prior/post trackday. If one has needed wrenches, hydraulic jack, some brake cleaner, brake lube, around 1-2h job. This way one can get pros at intended use, and not suffer from cons for wrong use. For example i switch between ds2500 for street (but have used them before also for light track. Funny that i can get them even cheaper then OE pads) and CSG C1 for track (not suggesting purchase, work very well, but with high cost + shipping + import cost, they run very expensive).

Kono: IF vendor has properly designed their kit to work together with OE, then retaining bias usually is taken care of. I don't know about your mentioned kit if it's designed to work in front-only upgrade or not, only with upgraded rears aswell. I know that Essex front-only sprint and endurance AP BBKs are made to work with OE rears to keep upgrade costs reasonable. There are different params that affect resulting brake torque. Piston area, pad area & shape, pad distance from rotating centre (or in other words rotor diameter) for example. Caliper bracket is just that, adapter to enable physically mount/connect specific car caliper on suspension of specific car. Problem with shifting bias can usually go two ways, depending on bias change direction. In one way you may get extra instability under heavy braking, other way - longer braking distances, due one end underbraked (due other locking much sooner). Yes, car will stop, brakes will work, that might be considered acceptable for someone daily driving only (forgetting that there might be emergency braking for crash avoidance on public roads too) .. but work worse. If proper brake vendors for native for car usually try to retain bias change within eg. 2%, many of retrofits from other cars with different weight distribution, different suspension design, sometimes staggered OE tire sizing, possibly different master piston bias ratio in many cases probably will change resulting braking bias at wheels, past optimum ratio. In rare cases it happens that retrofit brakes from other cars really are same as from kits for other cars (at least partially, from one end) (for example, as our cars front calipers are from wrx (rears from legacy gt IIRC), then IIRC willwood 4-pot fronts only might be good choice). So to summarize, even if retrofit is cheapest way to get good looking branded brakes on car .. even paying less to make worse seems wrong. Cheap calipers from some random car at breaker-yard to be fitted on random different car without doing lot of homework, or accompanying mods to "fix" .. better not.

Cheapest, yes. And wrong one to do, with high chance to make brakes worse then they were due shifting brake bias. Making something as important as brakes worse just for sake of looks because money is short seems wrong. It can be fixed/workarounded via eg. installing biasing valve, or trying to select staggered pads with different friction, but former will rise budget back, and later still needs lot of extra testing and those several different pads available in first place. Brakes are so not just about custom bracket to enable mounting on different car, at least done properly, and retrofit done properly is not cheaper.

Wheel clearance is specific to brake kit and to specific wheel (of specific sizing) kombo. Check info on vendor's site or via email enquiry. Also you can search on brake vendor's site for brake fitment template, download that pdf, print, glue on carton & cut by contours, and then check on your wheels. Also you may try to search on forums, if someone by chance has specific brake kit and specific wheels. Sometimes some not-clearing brakes cases can be workarounded by using wheel spacers. Specific wheel size of diameter/width/offset alone is not enough to ensure fitment, just increases chances to fit. After all, it may depend also on spoke shape, and that shape may differ between different wheel types and between different widths/offsets of specific wheel (like with offsets such and such it's one "face" of wheels of specific concavity, and for other offsets - different "face"). Increased braking power .. sounds like you are under impression of some populistic myths. Stopping distances mostly depend from tire grip only. If "less powerful" [tm] brakes are still capable to brake till wheels are locked/ABS triggered, car will not stop sooner. At most only brake pedal travel may differ. Main thing that "big brake kits" offer - increased heat capacity. They can "store" more heat and cool off at faster rate, resulting in longer heavy braking time before some issues pop up from overheat (eg. brake fluid boiling, brake pads overcooked/glazed and such, resulting in "brake fade"), thus eg. longer tracking sessions with rest being same, or eg. still acceptable brake functioning time even if you have to brake more (from eg. higher speeds due forced induction, or from higher speeds reached due grippier tires/more aero downforce mods). Nothing suspension related.

Hard braking .. probably meant bedding brake pads. Google on that. Usually several repeated hard braking (without complete stopping) and then drive for a while to cool off. Softer? Probably more street oriented? If yes, such usually have lower working temps, and easier to bed at lower speeds or even during normal daily driving. Properly bedded brakes ( = material of heated up pads evenly transferred onto brake rotors without any extra partial deposits/hotspots (which in turn may feel like as in myth of "warped rotors")) usually are much quieter or don't squeal at all, brake better and more consistently, and usually on bedded brakes both pads and rotors wear less. Unfortunately the more track oriented pads are (have higher working temp range), the harder to bed them if driving without braking rules/limits on public roads, and even if they were bedded, after light braking common to daily driving, bedded layer soon gets worn/scraped off, resulting eg. in brake squeal returning after few days after trackday. Thus best choice is to have two specialized pad set and switch to/from prior/post trackday, to have pros of each at right type of use and to not have to suffer cons at wrong one.

Click. In OP recall checker url by VIN. Normally owners affected should have letters sent out about it. But one can check there by himself, and according that go to dealership.

Isn't it not exactly front TRD bumper, as front TRD bumper lip/spoiler (to be used together with stock bumper), and IIRC there was even replicas for it? One UK source i recall seems here at fensport. IIRC Bayson R was one making replicas. You can try to find part number eg. here, and then search online for shops selling that part. Often i'm ordering from eg. japanparts.com (if long shipping times for cheapest shipping means are ok).

It's like old vs new computer games. Yes, many of past were very hard and challenging, asking for you to dedicate lot of time and many tries/save loads to complete some level and such .. but when you succeeded, sense of accomplishment was much higher. Modern games? For whatever marketing reasons are simplified and made easy to play .. and forget. Somehow both for myself and for my friends .. i notice many replay from time to time old classics while spending less and less attention to new .. "hits". They don't excite anymore, they don't provide that sense of accomplishment, despite new ones having uber graphics and such .. but dumb plots, lgbt characters, easy difficulty. Some difficulty is still left where one is competing against other players online, but multiplayer is not by everybody's taste. So even if it's future, even if it already technically is faster/more efficient .. AT imho is less engagement, less fun, less feeling good when one succeeds doing something well, which has been learnt for years.

Yeah, wheel speed sensors are things that both abs & electronic stability nannies use. It's not that hard to damage them with some careless work with wheels. Was car service work also with something brake related, eg. caliper overhaul/pad change?

IF recall affected valve springs are responsible. It's not as if there cannot be any other reason caused failure. Meanwhile i guess to get running sooner and for reasonable cost, i'd start searching for used engine from some breaker-yard, instead of spending few months for naught on extended failure diagnostics and probably for no gain arguing with toyota.

Well, some consider this cool Luckily i don't see such atrocities that often. But once i had to wait alongside other cars for 5min queued behind one lowered car (one honda prelude with ugly arguable kit) waiting for opposite lane to clear so to enable go over speed bump in diagonal. They looked anything but cool .. i guess, pity should be right emotion to feel? Or anger?

Making car like this will make it common-sense not-legal, even if by chance it will pass MOT inspection in some county. Please, don't pay for making car worse, less capable and almost undrivable. And if you care about coolness in eyes of some group of specific people, maybe reconsider, if worth keep interacting with that group or at least if worth pay any attention to their car related opinions at all. That rant of overlowering aside, even if that bit is legal, i'd also check if removal of rear fog/reverse lights is legal w/o adding some functional replacement. I know, that many imported from US to EU cars lacking eg. reverse light need to retrofit it in some way. Not seeing rear center light cluster in this pic makes me think that there might be issues with passing like that..

james_ly: not bandaid if you want to get max out of brakes capabilities. For example, BBK would be non-MOT-street legal option here in LV, so rIght (for use) pads&fluid are must have to get most out of stockers. Though if one tracks his, i'd prefer to eliminate any possible bottleneck, so would use good fluid even with BBK.

For daily driving in most cases (how many do downhill driving in mountains on regular basis and when do so, don't use engine braking?) even low boiling temp fluids should do. For track use, even "generic 5.1" won't be sufficient. Dot 3 4 5 5.1 .. is not exactly clear cut the higher number the better, but each of them is more about chemistry for base and additives (eg. anti corrosion, anti foaming and alikes) used (though Dot testing standards have also minimum temps listed, but not that high as best fluids out there) and what brake system is compatible with/not harm in them. For track use one still should go after brake fluid with higher temps then what those generic standards spec, for example pmu g-four 335, endless rf650, castrol srf, brembo htc 64t, of for budget minded motul rbf 600/660. (though worth noting that higher boiling temp brake fluids are also more hygroscopic, so worth changing out more often, as it will degrade the more it absorbs moisture). All you need to now, that all dot 3, 4, 5.1 brake fluids are compatible with each other and with brake systems specced for one of them. Only thing you should care for - to not put in dot 5, that is silicone fluid, unlike polyethylene glycol based ones above. Dry/wet temps of Dot 5.1 of 270/190C are higher then Dot 3 205/140, but if you compare with:

Not just F1. Actually there was ESC made for ours .. unfortunately it was by enthusiast for whom it was not business, so despite great interest he slowly released few sets with others waiting for year+ in queue .. and then he stopped making them. Even though imho it should be also paired with electric turbo generator to recuperate exhaust gas energy like turbo does and which might be done if car manufacturer takes up to implement such technology, but still this project illustrates that it can be done, and is more down to earth and reasonably priced tech with lot of potential. In my eyes properly implemented ESC (paired with recuperation generator) is better then just about any other type of FI. It would have more efficiency due reused like with turbo otherwise wasted exhaust energy, it would be much easier to place/mount due not being strongly tied like turbo or SC to specific pulleys/belts or exhaust routing and thus where/how to route axles connecting chager and exhaust snails, it has much more fine grained control decoupled from other things like exhaust gas speed or engine rpms, so ecu may command for full boost even at idle 500 rpms, and it won't need any blowoff valves/antilag implementations. In my eyes - win-win-win-win with no cons.

Japanese are also normal people. So it's more then possible for their car journalists to act same to ones in rest of the world, for similar reasoning of taking riscs by making up guesses/rumors to gain credibility/views/profit. Worse then that is when one fake rumor spreads to multiple other news sites reposting it w/o any reality check.

No biggie with mistakes regarding offset. If one forgets what negative or positive means, and that it's offset from centerline, not distance from wheel side, it's easy to confuse, and get it right each time, if extra spacer will rise or reduce it, if bigger or lesser positive or negative offset will actually space them out or in. Well, effects of scrub radius effects are as i have described. It acts like this: as with different "lever" length (positioned more outward wheel center line from actual wheel turning/pivoting axis) same force gets multiplied, so result is felt as a heavier steering (you have to turn from other end of lever, with more wheel movement per steering wheel movement), and road defects can push/turn wheel a bit more, in case of driven wheels there is more torque steer, as same engine torque can pull wheel more at longer "lever" from turning axis (and how new type-r civic reduced torque steer, by designing front suspension to put wheel turning axis as close to wheel centerline as possible), and with this "longer lever" wheel movements also put more load on bearing. BUT! Even if it all sounds evil, negative, it's definitely not THAT bad :). So unless you are among those that installed wide body kit and need extra 4-5cm or even more offset change for flushness with new wider width, "reasonable" 5-15mm imho one can easily use w/o much worry, scrub radius effect on RWD car won't be that bad to concern with. If anything, my current smaller diameter aftermarket steering wheel may net similar handling feel change, heavier steering and slightly more felt road defects. Though not for flushness or brake clearance, but in winter i'll be installing 12mm spacers in front, so that with my mods to increase max steering angle for ice drifting wheels don't rub on arch lining and suspension arm. Just take a note regarding studs/spacer types/possible issues. Spacers are often the cheapest way out to increase BBK clearance, even vs purchase of cheap cast wheel set (of design, often not that good for maximizing brake clearance at that). As for fitment .. this is nice site to check possible result. (won't help with BBK clearance check of course, for which i suggest to d/l from vendor site brake fitment template, glue on carton, cut, and measure actual clearance, "how much spacer" needed. Or try to find on vendor site or in forums about that particular BBK kit, which wheels (and of which size/offset) clear it).

If you don't go overboard with spacer thickness and tighten properly, they are safe enough and impact on handling is minimal enough to not care much. Impact to handling will be absolutely same if you change wheel/tire offset by spacer or by different offset wheel. Take in mind, that brake clearance doesn't depend just from wheel size and offset, but also from wheel spoke design, and that it can change at different sizes for supposedly same type/model of wheel, and clearance may differ between eg. +30ET wheel with deeper convex spoke design vs +40ET wheel and 10mm spacer. Larger diameter wheels increase chance to clear but it's not given. Same with same type of wheel, where one size clears, but another - doesn't, even if eg. it's of smaller offset. Take in mind though, that with stock studs you shouldn't use thicker then 3mm slip-on type spacers. If you want thicker ones, consider buying & installing extended length studs (by eg. ARP). Warning about extended length studs though, that it might be problematic replacing them in rears w/o removing wheel hub, but in case of later, it's possible to damage hub bearing. With thickness like 15mm i'd think of maybe bolt-on spacers. 20 and more .. subjectively i wouldn't run, as imho by then increase in eg. scrub radius (heavier steering, a bit more tendency to follow longitudinal road grooves, if it's FWD car, more torque-steer) might start to get noticeable, there might be higher load/wear on hub bearings too. Many run though, deciding that cons are not that high vs their wished goals (of eg. flush fitment and alikes).