Church

Out of curiosity, which android headunit? How much it ram it has, which android version, does it have physical knobs, what is audio quality?

To prevent potential injuries to someone sticking head or hand out of window, modern car window lifters incorporate check, to if they have some hardship rising window, on detecting of which they stop and go into this mode of not closing completely, and on twins it's also indicating with flashing window operating buttons. Not that uncommon to see in winters if glass is frozen to seals (advise to use some rubber conditioner eg. gummipflege to reduce frosting to). Weird to see it happening not in winter. If windows lifting mechanism didn't work after reset trick (btw, no need to wait that long as 15s, just with closed doors press and hold it 2-3s past it lowered, and then press to rise and hold 2-3s past it rised. If worked, should be observable right away, with buttons not flashing anymore, and windows operating normally), then i guess yes, something might be wrong and worth making a trip to dealership. (BTW, my memory is a bit vague on this, frozen glass to seals didn't yet happened for last years since started using said gummipflege, but it's also possible, that one needs to use the switches on door, whose window lifting controller needs to be reset)

Changing rake can change a bit weight distribution & aero balance. I guess lowering front more, will make it less understeery. Then again, if that matters a lot like on track, more then possibly one has several other means/mods to change that, eg. more track fit alignment, or aero upgrades. I probably wouldn't overthing too much this rake change.

Not sure there is something "to regret". But if one has aftermarket catback, most of those are annoyingly (also for neighbors) loud with cold start. If stock catback, imho it's not an issue. And a bit easier/quicker to heat up cats prior MOT. But not having it of course will bring no unsafety to engine. Linear throttle map .. it's subjective thing. It may provide a bit finer throttle control on track .. but also with it engine might feel a bit weaker, after all, non linear was implemented especially to fool one's mind, that there is more powerful engine then it is, as most drive on public roads with partial/lightly pressed throttle, so if engine power changes a lot relative little initial throttle pedal movement, it seems more powerful subjectively. Some may like it, some not. Then again, probably you'll be tuned via ecutek? Then probably you can have several tunes, with/without coldstart, with more linear or as stock throttle mapping, various fuel types and so on, and be able to switch between tunes (via eg. cruise control stalk).

Out of curiosity, what mods you have (or haven't) done to oiling?

I just relocated with adapter cable off back of headunit usb ports to inside of glovebox. Thought line goes like this, that anything plugged in clear sight (such as in usb ports in centre console) will extra motivate thieves to break in. And constant plugging in/out whenever i leave car imho redundant hassle.

It's ok for some firm to have temporary problems/issues with timely work with customers due that .. but at very least it looks to be handled very poorly, in way that will leave long lasting damage to reputation.

Even with redline as is FA engines imho are "revvy" enough, way more so then average family car engines with redline ~ 6K. And those very few engines that did rev higher, eg. in S2K AP1 were replaced with torqier but with slightly lower redline in AP2. So imho revvy & sporty by my taste enough. As for lightening car .. i'd think of complex solution. Both slight power increase (via eg. ecu tune & catless header. or going supercharging route), and lightening (removal of crap in boot, deletion of rear seats, replacing heavy stock seats with light bucket seats, replacing heavy battery with l/w Li one, installing smaller washer fluid tank, installing lighter wheels & BBK. Doing these imho should retain most of comfort features.

Use lever in front/below of seat to move seat up or down. > Pump several times seat frontmost side lever to lift or lower seat. Pull rearmost side lever to unlatch back of seat, release when reclaimed back of seats at needed angle. Use latch below steering column to unlatch and adjust via tilt up/down or telescopic towards/from you steering wheel. If seat & steering wheel adjustment ranges are still not able to get you in right & ergonomic position and you have to eg. compromise between headroom (especially matters when wearing helmet in eg. trackdays) that may require more reclaimed rearwards back of seat to gain headroom, which may put steering wheel too distant even in rearmost adjustment position, you may consider steering wheel spacer and control stalks extenders. As alternative, one may consider aftermarket bucket seat that sits lower and gains headroom this way. Might be compromised ease of getting in rear seats, functioning of side airbags and seat heating though.

Indeed so. They don't automatically fold. Buy/install this for that function. Then mirrors will fold when you lock the car, and unfold, when you start engine. Subaru P/N H2717CA000 https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/44085 install manual (in japanese unfortunately) http://home.bullet-systems.com/webscratch/gt86/H2717CA000.pdf probably there is something to change blinker function, but never felt need for such function, thus never searched info for such

Maybe record it, post vid somewhere to listen

There were tests/data by CSG. They do obviously reduce underbonnet temps. In addition to that vents also reduce front-end lift, which also seems beneficial, as imho is similar to rear diffuser, adding a bit downforce to front w/o much extra drag, and w/o having to compromise ground and front's geometrical clearance, that lowering/splitters and alikes do.

Better price for "stock" car obviously. Another reason why i keep OE when upgrading anything to aftermarket and prefer reversible mods. One hardly will get even 1/4-1/3 of mod parts price, but car's price itself usually can be made noticeably higher.

If car is NA i find it unlikely to have issues with rods even if abused. If overboosted with FI non built engine w/o forged internals .. but imho one can fsck up engine in this case irrelevant of FD ratio. Short gear ratio gearset + FD is what i'd love to see in mine (so that 1st & 2nd gear stays somewhat same, but other gears come closer down). Pitty that especially former costs more then i'd willing to pay for that.

Twins can go even faster then that, but IIRC top speed was limited in ECU (more so in JDM one, to ~180kmh). I guess, engine & roadnoise at such speed was not exactly enjoyable? As for stability .. it also greatly depends on alignment of suspension. If it's out of whack (especially toe), it may behave differently.

State also your use&driving type/tires/goals&preferences.

When one drops compression (usually because adding some forced induction of sorts), you still would be better off running better quality fuel due said FI, which with extra boosting blows in more air & fuel, "reverting compression change", to not knock much. Also boosting engine puts higher load/wear on it, more reasons to feed it quality fuel, to reduce knock.

Conflicting info from whom? From misc endusers, views of whom have been nurtured from various sources, including "reliable" gut feel & myths they heard? . If even wheel manufacturers and tuning shops say that hubcentric centering rings are convenience item to ease mount but not required for properly mounted wheel, i see no reason to not trust them. So if you have those wheels you can start using them right away, just torque lugnuts properly, in star fashion and for right torque value, recheck torque after driving some mileage, and you should be ok/safe. For said convenience in background you can search/find hubcentric rings that fit your wheels, but their absence shouldn't keep you from using wheels already now. Normally it's friction between hub and tightened down wheel that keeps wheel in place. With great force (as probably with heavy hits you'll rather break/bend wheel, instead of it slipping from hub). And properly tightened in star fashion lugnuts with conical lug seat do the centering job. Hubrings just ease putting wheel on (especially on cars with lug bolts instead of lug nuts, like eg. bmw). Even with hubcentric ring, if wheel is not properly tightened, it will still slip and break studs (or lug bolts) even with ring in place, ring alone or studs/lugbolts(that are not designed for strong enough side bending force) just cannot carry any meaningful load such as car weight.

My advise would be driving without them. They are only there to simplify a bit putting on. They do nothing once wheel properly torqued down. If you are ok with slightly less convenient putting wheel on, there is no drawback with driving w/o them.

If you mostly only track car, OE alignment is very off for such use. Mostly - due insufficient camber all around, especially in front. Car is too understeer biased and sees heavy camber wear for tires with ripped tire outer sides while almost no wear on insides (and due such uneven contact for use at track also reduced grip). Though OE brakes usually is first limit one hits at track/HPDE (but with not too grippy tires usually good track pads and better brake fluid might be sufficient), OE alignment is next limitation one hits. If by OE there is zero front camber, -1dg rear camber, then more optimal for track would be -3 to -3.5 degrees front camber and -2.5dg rear camber.

adjustable rear arms add camber adjustment. (stock for twins there is only toe adjustment in front and rear) this traction mod modifies pickup point, as in car suspension behaves, when you transfer mass to rear, when adding gas, changing a bit traction for accelerating out of corners. i myself get a bit of that stuff by toe-in in rear (which adds stability/self centering of that axle. it's also in stock alignment).

Hmm .. try measuring internal hole diameter and then google for "plastic cap XX mm"? Imho most open ended lugnut covers are either made by manufacturer specific to theirs, or for most generic, external hex ones.

you left out important variable out of equation. Those "exceptional" NA engines with even higher specific power output per volume, were way less strangled by modern eco emission standards. I'm certain that be it now, those wouldn't be that "exceptional". If even Honda, maker of (in my eyes) best inline-4 engines "gave up" and went for turbo in latest type-r generations, should speak a lot about it. Now only supercar makers can still afford to develop/make "exceptional" NA engines comparable to those in past.

Adjusting with those bushings is more cumbersome. I have them in "maxed out" position and never touched since, doing adjustment with camberbolts (previously on stock struts and now on bilstein B6 ones). As for Ohlins struts .. why they don't take camber bolts? They have slotted mount holes on strut? Then use those slots for adjustment. Or reuse in larger top hole "crashbolts" like those in smaller lower hole. Or they need some nonstandard sized, smaller bolts, so that generic lobed camberbolts for twins won't fit?

Mostly equal change wise. As in there were some differences even with stock everything, so these won't "fix" or make it worse. And i have other parts changing geometry (eg. i had powerflex eccentric bushings and two camberbolt sets too) prior install of these mounts, and difference that needed to be adjusted. Just get in addition to topmounts at least single camberbolt set. It's relatively cheap, even more common and quicker to get, and in addition to allow precise dialing of even alignment also up adjustment range, whereas mentioned pedder topmounts just add fixed amount of camber. As stock, our cars have only toe adjustment in front and rear. And as installing them asks for undoing several screws/mounts, and also camber changes are linked with toe changes, alignment after install of these topmounts is highly advised anyway.