Varelco

You will struggle to get through an MOT with the Berk HFC. Can't comment on the Cobra.

It wouldn't be worth putting a brand new engine as the costs are always ridiculous, a second hand engine is definitely viable. I cannot see how the sums wouldn't add up, even if you bought it back and get it done outside of the insurance. So pleased you got it back though, my worst fear would be finding it burnt out somewhere. Are Police forensics being done?

Nice, It looks like they've done their research. I hope they have sorted the issues with the gearstick rattles too as thats a major bugbear in my car. A GR86 is almost certainly going to be my next car now, after being underwhelmed by its intended replacement (981 Cayman), the more I look at it the more I like it.

I would see if you can determine where the leak is coming from before you commit to a decision. If its the dipstick tube its a cheap easy fix. If its the timing belt cover then its a big job. It wont be the cam cover plate as they are at the back of the engine.

It will happen but it will be rare as FA24s won't be in abundance or cheap. If this car is going to be priced around £30k then that is going to be serious value for money, I would have one for that price. I wonder how much the new engine is being pushed, is it coincidental that the 250NM rated max torque also happens to be tge design limit of the Aisin gearbox.

Absolutely gutted for you Lauren, the car is unique so lets hope they get some leads!

If you are willing to ship it at all ill take it!

The constant noise isn't crickets its your direct injectors, they are noisy by design. The clunk is the clutch of your A/C engaging as others has mentioned, but the brief rattle once it kicks in is unusual, although its something i wouldn't be concerned about.

A change in direction means my supercharger kit is up for sale. This is a rare opportunity to buy this amazing piece of kit. It was originally off a fellow enthusiasts car and has sat in my shed since March.The kit is approximately 2 years old and has covered 12,000 miles. It contains all components of the Stage 2 kit. (you will require an ECUtek license andCosworth tune to complete) I would like what I paid for it: £3575. The price is fair therefore is non negotiable. Collection preferred but delivery can be arranged for an additional cost. Located in Sittingbourne Kent. ---More images to follow---

SOLD mods please close.

Whilst not mandatory, definitely recommended. I have camber bolts and LCAs on lowering springs and I'm glad I did. I could offset the increased camber on the rear caused by lowering it whilst dialling in some at the front. The balance is lovely.

You do when you need to reuse the stop mounts as per those coilovers.

Why would you attempt to fit springs yourself but not coilovers? Its exactly the same scope of work. You haven't mentioned what your intentions are, are you lowering for looks? Improved performance? Better ride quality? Those pro street coilovers look suspiciously like rebranded Bilsteins.

As soon as you mentioned the word 'track' I'd use 5W-30 personally, the thinner grade is purely used to reduce frictional losses and make it more efficient that's it. The thicker grade will help with oil pressures/film strength on track once it gets hot. I only use 5w-30 in my car.

Because the conrods lack strength to take any more torque. The high compression ratio restricts the amount of boost pressure you can run. You aren't comparing apples to apples. If you take the factory designed turbocharged FA20 then the figures are more comparable. the JDM FA20DIT is rated to 400NM.

Provisionally Sold.

Hi All, I've recently had the 330mm AP Racing BBK fitted by Abbey Motorsports, I've noticed in reverse I get a loud clunk whenever I apply the brakes, is this normal? I've checked the anti rattle clip and its installed correctly but it does definitely sound like the backing plates of the pads moving.

I'm almost certain its the pads, the clunk sounds like the backing plates moving, nothing is translated through to the car, its just a light noise, they are the only moving part. I can't see how the discs would move, mine aren't floating just regular 2 piece, so they are bolted together, if they are moving then something is very wrong. If I was to hazard a guess I'd say the backing plates are slightly undersized in the caliper to allow expansion when they get hot, this would prevent them getting seized in the caliper.

Yeah I was intending to take a look actually, just to double check everything is still tight and as it should be. Pedal feel is much like stock day to day, no issues with modulation, the type of pad is going to make the most noticeable difference if anything, if I really stamp on the brakes I notice how much more stopping power have compared to the stock setup, the nose really dives. I've been really pleased with the Ferodo DS2500s, I was a little sceptical running that pad, they have good road manners, no noise issues, the feel and cold bite is pretty much how the stock setup felt, yet they have alot more capability when it comes to stressing them on track.

ThatGuyThere, not the most diplomatic approach but your question is simple, doesn't require a story or peoples names to answer.

The price of the those wheels is pretty respectable. If you solely look at cheap imitation brands then everything will look expensive relative to that.

I wouldn't go for a 215 on an 8j, go for a 225, they will be cheaper and look better too. You won't lose any of the playfulness of the car it doesn't suddenly become a grip monster. That was my concern too. My setup is 18x7.5j ET33 front and 18x7.5j ET 28 rear with 225/40/18 V105s, overall mechanical grip is up but not as much as you think, and the dynamics of the car is the same, it stays more consistent across various conditions than the Primacys but it will still move around in greasy conditions, just the limit is higher which is reassuring when it comes to braking.

280bhp seems to be the upper limit for the in tank fuel pump and the clutch (as you found out). Above that those items require changing. Although not mandatory Cosworth recommend changing it with their kit to offer more headroom, especially if the filters aren't fresh. Tuning developments stage 2 which is 300+ also changes the fuel pump. 280bhp seems to be deemed the safe limit on the twins. Above this you enter rod lottery, upgrades to the clutch and fuelling and running over the gearbox design limit of 250nm.

They fit HKS plugs (did my 60k service last week). That's fair enough, you must on the absolute limit of the pump with your setup.

Martin are you running the stock in tank fuel pump?