Varelco

Gutted for you, to happen twice is just plain bad luck but as a positive, looks like its just a new bumper.

How desperate are you for one? I have a fujitsubo double resonated decatted front pipe on mine which is coming off end of June

That's a 5 axis spoiler.

They are still known to fail even with the flexi joint. There are so many other options available for this chassis, don't know why so many still get fitted.

It's all going to feel sluggish on the motorway for a couple of reasons. 6th gear is long, more so for a car with 150lb/ft of torque. The other reason is you are sat right in the middle of the torque dip at motorway speeds. The car is never going to pull well in that situation. Just food for thought.

Christ you have absolutely no luck do you. Gutted for you Smudge. I'm not sure what id do in your position but I'd imagine the overwhelming first urge would be to break it. I would cool off for a bit then make a rational decision.

Its quite a common issue caused by the gear shift assembly, you can get it replaced under warranty but its a 50/50 chance that its fixed. Mine can be horrific, sounds like your vibrating a bunch of bottle tops, other times its near enough silent.

What as in create an over saturated market because they sold well, with an engine notorious for fuel and oil consumption, the necessity to be rebuilt frequently and costing the earth to tax and fuel. Yeap. Can't totally see the similarities there.

That looks great. I think it sits nicely, yeah it's not decked but looks purposeful. What's the size and offset? I know what you mean with houses, would love to spend more time and effort on my car but my house just absorbs everything I have and more lol.

Welcome Jim, quite a change from a 996 to a GT86 what’s the reason behind it if you don't mind me asking? To expand on what Lauren said you have a few options on what type of forced induction you can get your hands on; Superchargers The likes of Cosworth and Harrop are popular and use a roots type compressor, with air to water intercooling all tucked up in a neat package on top of the engine (Edelbrock offer a similar package but it’s not as commonly fitted). Sprintex offer a similar setup but uses a twin screw compressor and was one of the earliest and cheapest ways to forced induction on the FA20. The other type is a centrifugal compressor using air to air intercooling much like a turbo, HKS, Rotrex, Jackson Racing and Kraftwerks build these kits, it only seems to be the HKS which has been widely fitted in the UK (but these aren’t without their issues). Turbocharged In the UK the kits from AVO and Tuning developments are the most popular options. Both proven and widely praised, HKS offer a turbo kit too but its only been released recently so there isn’t masses of background info on it. There are other options available but it can be a bit of minefield as some only fit LHD cars and others need cutting of crossmembers etc. Turbos tend to offer better prospects for big power but unless you intend to utilise it that’s not really a deciding factor. The FA20 is good for around 280-290bhp before you reach the limits of the rods, these are deemed as your first limitations for power. Due to the sintered construction they can be a bit of a lottery, some let go at 300bhp others quite happily sit at 350bhp. If you do want to push it past the limits then you need to factor in a forged bottom end, stronger clutch and fuelling mods too ££££. Seeing as the intention would be to track the car and potientially putting >60% more power through the engine an oil cooler and thicker grade oil should be on the cards too. Hope that gives you a better insight, spend some time running the search function on here and over at GT86owners club. FI is widely done of this chassis so there is plenty of info. Its also worth speaking to the big vendors such as Fensport, Tuning Developments, Abbey Motorsports for more info, they are really helpful and active within the 86/BRZ world.

This is very true, i used a crap example. There are also a number where the valves are offset to each other.

They do FA20 rocker arm... Also how would a SOHC engine work without rocker arms?

Sounds mechanical. Not so long ago someone else experienced exactly the same scenario (all good, then rattling as they drove off a roundabout). Turned out to be a broken valve spring. Could be that or a broken rocker arm? Either way I wouldn't start it again and get it looked it.

It's irrelevant as you don't change anything on that mechanism.

I did just that, according to our American friends (in proper units of measure); OEM Front Caliper w/ bracket: 5.22kg Front Discs: 7.7kg OEM Rear Caliper w/ bracket: 2.63kg Rear Discs: 5.98kg

Does anyone know how much lighter the 330mm AP 4 pot kit (CP9200) is compared to stock? I did realise BBKs tended to be lighter.

Why do you want one first of all, do you need a pickup? I have driven a few (Ranger old and new, Navara and a L200) the reason I ask is they are not driving machines, juicy on fuel and pretty agricultural.

Lots of good info in this thread, @AJ124 I see in Laurens thread you emailed Godspeed about their kit, did you get a reply with anymore info?

I think it's a case of you get what you pay for. From what I remember the Godspeed discs have straight vanes as opposed to curved and the calipers themselves are smaller and cheaper. I don't imagine you compromise on quality maybe just outright performance, I'm tempted to go for the 4 pot kit as it will do everything I'd need, I suppose it depends on your requirement. The brake snobs of world would steer towards Brembo or AP because well, they're Brembo and AP... but I can't say I've heard any horror stories on K sport. They have been knocking around for quite a while, some say they're pants other say their good and others say the are copies of Tarox but I've never seen any evidence behind any claim, standard internet talk.

Does everything that guy touch turn to sh*t or what? Glad that no man or machine got hurt, that could of very easily been a different story!

Given your current situation neither option makes much sense. Your oil temp is barely up to temperature to warrant full throttle and when you do so you're saying you spend that time at 2-4k rpm in traffic. The final drive is a funny one, there seems to be a narrow window where its actually beneficial, I can't see yours being one, ok you gain mechanical advantage but you will be in gear for a shorter periods and at lower speeds, ending up being no better where you were first off. The tried and tested manifold and remap route is your best bet.

Looks good Kev. What internals did you have fitted? On another note whats the spec on your wheels, the fitment is spot on.

All the time you keep the journeys short you are all good, it won't come back up. As soon as you go for a longer drive it will come back on

If you do short journeys and you sensors are still close enough to your car when you get home the light may never come on. Its only until you're in the car for a bit longer and venture further out does the light come back on again.

The general consensus like you say is that you can squeeze that setup on using the stock struts but it is very close. Ft86club is loaded with info on wheel setups. All coilovers are thinner than the stock struts, there isn't anything out there which is wider. Bilstein B14s use wider springs but not as wide as stock.