Varelco

That's a shocking fit. Far too close, from the photo it looks like it's actually touching, it may even be closer if the manifold expands with heat. Then when the engine rocks it's going to fret the wrap away again. Why is it necessary go so far up and over that it's practically in contact with a radiator hose? It's not like it's needed for performance given all the others which sit much further away. Surely TD cant say thats fine? seeing as its a modular design it's not even like you need a complete new manifold, just the loop section.

I struggle with why the collaboration is such an issue and why people are deliberately naive about it, unless you are the ultimate JDM fanboy or brand loyal what's wrong with combining inputs from 2 manufacturers. Yeah it uses a BMW engine and interior but who complains at the quality of BMWs interior and they have been making 6 pots for decades.

My point proven.

There seems to be so much bashing for the new Supra which I think is unfair really. I seem to be one of the few who really like and stand by it. Looks will always he subjective but you can't argue with the the pedigree behind it, it's the right wheel drive with the right amounts of cylinders etc etc. If i was able to justify sinking 50k into a car It would be to a tough decision between the Supra and Jag F Type. It will sell pretty well but not in this country. People over here seemed to be obsessed with high performance white goods and anything German.

Wow that quite a big difference from some of the others posted. Looks like maybe a fault with manufacturing?

Yeah its never going to last as long as staying NA but same could be said with the stock clutch etc etc. The same can be said for the standard manifold with a supercharger, there has been a few blown out after being used on track.

It's not the cheapest option but you could have the manifold ceramic coated, I had mine done by performance1 for £282. I'm not a fan of heat wrap.

No its not a necessity, you can keep the stock front pipe, the only reason for changing it is to make the most of the turbo kit (in terms of power). So you can have your cake and eat it.

@knightryder They didn't. The fuel injection system was their contribution that's it. Thats hardly a development. It is 99% Subaru and shares nothing else with Toyota manufactured engines.

No I wouldn't say a turbo charged lump but a Toyota engine. I'm not a fan of the FA20, Toyota should of developed the engine for it not Subaru, they have produced some good engines over the years, I would of prefered they "sacrifice" some of the ultra low centre of gravity for an inline 4. Its not like you need a flat engine to achieve this seeing as Toyota have quite proudly stated the new Supras CoG is lower than the GT86 and that's got a hoofing big 3.0 straight 6 in it.

What colour is your car? I think that makes a huge difference when choosing wheels. You can't go wrong with any of your choices, they are all good quality and good looking wheels.

I agree its definitely not the jewel in the crown on this car but then again Honda weren't making nearly 200bhp at less than 7000rpm to Euro 6 standards. The torque dip ruins the power delivery though. Superior? More like marginal. Unless you are chasing the ultimate peak figure there is not really anything in it, the choice is primarily preference on the sound.

I can't see why it wouldn't its a 200mm unit which is perfect as you wont need to use any ugly fascia trim pieces

The car is fitted with 2 cats for EURO6 standards not those of the MOT. Our cars should easily pass on either of the factory cats. If the standards of the MOT were that strict most older gen cars will fail it.

You are going to be severely limited in choice with a 10k budget. There aren't many around so they tend to hold their value pretty well. Prices drop and seem to be holding around the 12k Mark. If you can dig around for another 2k you will have so much more choice.

Maybe it's the time of year? What with it being Xmas and all.

Its highly likely they are the largest single supplier of parts for our cars on the planet. You are safe.

Mk4 1.25L Fiestas, 2 apprentices in my year had them, they would do a quart every week. We were convinced they were dual fueled, cylinders 1 and 4 ran on oil the other 2 ran on petrol. They never bothered to do oil changes as they turned over so much of the stuff

Maybe? It's not something I've heard of before.

Unfortunately there is no fudgery you can do to turn it off, it will be controlled in the body control module, the only thing I believe you can use to edit that is Techstream which has no function to disable TPMS.

I was on about the car, trust me if it used bulbs it would be pulled!

Unfortunately tech has moved on a bit, we aren't in the 90's. It's an LED soldered onto the dash cluster, you can put tape over it, but it involves stripping it down, not a 5 minute job.

Mine went through a litre during run in! I'm nudging 40k miles now and don't have to touch it. I think it uses about 100-200ml between services.

Mine works really well. The camera swivels, its like a ball in a socket type setup, that's why there is that groove in the mount, so you can swivel it without obstructing the view, it stays solid. One option is to get it in position then stick some super glue through the back so it stays put.

Changing to stiffer anti roll bars has an infamous effect of making the ride harsh on these cars as you have discovered on both set of springs. You would have been better off leaving the lowering springs on and replacing the ARB back to stock, you would get the aesthetics and comfortable ride back with minimal loss of body roll (lets face it these cars are very planted stock and even better just on a set of lowering springs). Sorry it doesn't help your knock problem, but I also have a very similar knock from the front, its only evident at speeds less than 20mph and small bumps in the road. Anything faster or more aggressive and its silent. I've checked everything for play and tightness and all is good, the only thing I intend to do now is loosen the ARB and top mount nuts, lower the car so the full weight is on the suspension then retorque it back up.