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Everything posted by DanJ
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Small world! I go A5 and then through Whittlebury and Silverstone village, far too many big potholes on the road out to Stowe for my liking. I'm out the office until Wednesday next week but will walk down and say hello one lunchtime.
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Do you work at GPR? Thought I saw your car there the other day. I'm 50m down the road at Flybrid if you do!
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Torque Pro Android app + Bluetooth OBD2 adapter.
- 134 replies
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Only corner where I might have chosen second, but still traction limited on corner exit in third so it saved one gear change on the straight which was quicker.
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I'm driving around without a head unit at the moment (one more difference between Subaru and Toyota is the head unit brackets are different!) and so many of the rattles are gone. When I get the right brackets to fit the Xtrons head unit I'll be smothering it in anti rattle tape I think!
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I don't think there's much in it at Snetterton, I was just a gear higher than Ade most corners, but not having to use 2nd gear anywhere was a huge plus! Tracks where you have to pull 6th with the 4.1FD will show the biggest difference I think.
- 134 replies
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Yep, was shifting up early to help with oil temps, need to sort that cooler out! It was the run with you as a passenger, you're the independent witness
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@rob275 that's right, I've edited the original post so all the info is together.
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As promised, logged data from Snetterton yesterday, Harrop SC with 4.67 FD and stock exhaust. The majority of the peak IATs are off-throttle when bypassing.
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Glad you made it home safe Rich, hope the repair bill isn't too bad. You were really unlucky being caught in that shower, it dried up pretty quickly afterwards.
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Damp track, hmmm. Sounds like ideal conditions to be pushing 80% more torque at the wheels for the first time!
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Without access to the standard I can't explain the thermodynamic theory behind it, but dyno correction factors calculated according to SAE Standard J1349 work out to ~ -2% engine power for every +10deg.C IAT, this Cf decreases as IAT increases. This standard is for NA engines and is used by OEMs to normalise measured power outputs for changes in atmospheric pressure and temperature. The Harrop data above is from their track car that's running the HKS Stroker Kit, ACE Manifold, HKS Exhaust, E85 and a 65mm pulley (vs 95mm standard) its putting out 380HP at the wheels with the SC running at a pressure ratio of 2.2, so the 70deg.C IAT comparison isn't really valid.
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Pretty sure there's a valve that limits the pressure to the rear brakes at high rates of decel (to avoid rears locking first as load transfers to the front wheels).
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Yep, I just need strip them from the calipers, the workshop is at Silverstone so can wander over with me and collect them at some point on Sunday.
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You're both welcome to hop in for a passenger ride.
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Thanks :-) I've not had chance to properly bed in the pads yet but the brake balance has felt fine the few times I've leaned on them properly so far.
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Just about ready, touch and go whether I'll get the oil cooler on in time so may be restricted to shorter runs. Hope they turn up! Are you just doing the fronts for now or fronts and rears? The price to revalve the Ohlins was too much for me and that was before top mounts as well so there'll be a set of Flex A's being fitted before Cadwell. In a way I'm glad the mods have ended up being phased so I get a chance to experience/appreciate the impact of each change.
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After the previous false start the brakes are on without any major issues.
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The bonnets are aluminium rather than steel to save weight and help lower the CoG, aluminium is 1/3 the stiffness of steel for the same thickness so the air pressure at high speed causes the bonnet panel to flex down in the middle, which results in some lift at the edges the other side of the supports. As Lauren says its common to all our cars and not anything to worry about.
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That probably does explain the difference, its a double whammy because it impacts the convective heat transfer at the CC rad and the heat exchangers in the inlet manifold, cursing my stupidity for not remembering this at install time now! Have your brakes arrived yet btw?
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Agreed, to muddy the waters further there's a reasonable difference to be had from running 100% coolant at one extreme, which is worse than running pure water at the other end. I'm on 100% coolant at the moment and in hindsight that was a mistake, priority is get brakes and oil cooler fitted before Snetterton rather than sort that out though!
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I'm away with work at the moment so don't have my laptop and dongle to share the data, in a series of WOT throttle pulls followed by "spirited" driving the highest IAT I've seen so far is 41deg.C but that was a peak some time after the throttle was closed and came down again when pushing air back through the heat exchangers again. Compared to dyno runs with a fixed speed fan at the front, as you go faster on road/track you're pushing more air mass flow air through the CC rad --> cooler outlet water --> greater delta T on inlet air --> cooler inlet air for the same operating condition. Higher ambient temps will reduce the delta T of the CC rad, with the knock on effects thereafter for any fixed spec system. The sensitivity of this will vary from system to system depending on where the limitation of that particular cooling system is. Will be interesting to see how much the increase is on track and will happily share the data when I've got it.
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It's worth noting that the fitted price for the HKS and Harrop kits is almost identical, the HKS is cheaper but takes much longer to fit.
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I've had the Harrop on my car for just over a week now, I also have a shorter final drive. The combination of the two means +80% torque at the wheels across pretty much the entire rev range as well as eliminating the torque dip. Needless to say it's like driving an entirely different car, all that extra torque makes the daily drive to work and back much easier with considerably less cog stirring required and when you do get to open the taps the grin factor is superb. Bles, you're going to love it :-)
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Ooo that would be awesome, thanks! I was looking at the Streetmasters already. [emoji4] No idea on pad wear at the moment, I need to have a check on that. I'll try to have a poke this evening, is it possible to check without taking the wheels off? I'm not very heavy on the brakes, but I think I should be a bit heavier to improve times. I'm a bit too used to road driving where the idea is to brake as little as possible. No problem, I'd much rather they go to a good home than sit on my shelf gathering (more!) dust.