DanJ

Purist or not I'd be happy with anything that maximised the time I could have both hands on the wheel in a beast like that!

Ahhh, I see! Hopefully there's someone with enough knowledge of the electrics out there to help.

I don't know the specifics of the this ABS/ESP system so can't comment on your question directly, but I think you could achieve what your looking to do a slightly different way and retain the stock pedal box and ABS/ESP module. A lot of cars now have load sensitive rear brake pressure modulation using a mechanism similar to the headlight levelling linkage, so I'm thinking of a pair of variable orifice valves that limit the rear brake pressure downstream of the ABS module, it should be possible to connect these into one single cable dial adjuster so you can change brake bias from the drivers seat as with a conventional bias bar.

No problem, you obviously have a similar affliction of having to put right what you see as being wrong :-)

You can buy the fixings to plug these very cheaply from Ebay or Amazon, I got mine here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Wheel-Arch-Lining-Clips-for-Honda-Mazda-Toyota-/291532253288?

Sweet, Bluetooth OBD2 reader is next on the list then :-) Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Interesting! Have you got a list of the possible outputs that can be displayed and how regularly they refresh?

Great question, impossible to choose one for me, by category the following are all remembered fondly: Rallying - Grp B Ford RS200, Grp A Lancia Delta (has to be in Martini colours!) and the first two door Impreza WRCs (1997 to 2000) F1 - Williams FW10 and FW11, Jordan 191, Ferrari 412 (18,000rpm V12 goodness) Sportscars - Grp C Mercedes and Jaguars, Ferrari 333SP and much more recently the Lola Aston (more V12 goodness!)

I think its the lip seal on the pinion shaft being a different OD so it won't fit in the bore in the diff casing, should be a cheap part from a Toyota or Subaru dealer if the one supplied doesn't fit.

I've just got a revised quote from Aviva on my current policy to see how much extra for wheels and tyres, suspension and brake mods. Extra charge is ~£50, nearly £30 of which was admin fee, so not too bad at all.

No problem, thought that would be the case, there's less tread left than I thought!

Just measured, fronts are 5mm max to 4mm min across the tread, rears are 4mm max to 3mm min.

Thanks, he replied today anyway, was slow to respond as currently in Spain.

Depends how quickly you need them, I'm just about to go for new rims + tyres to give room for a brake uograde. Will happily sell you the Primacys once they come off current mileage is just under 15k, I can measure how much tread is left on Monday at work.

I've not heard anything back yet, how long did they take to reply to you? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Rye House or Whilton Mill are possible alternatives to Daytona for karting you might want to have a look at.

I've emailed them on the wolverhamptonmazda@hotmail.com address, assume that was the right one?

1. Deacon 2. Mike 3. Keethos 4. Kevb86 5. Tareim 6. Faith 7. RobinHood 8. DanJ

One more for the list, will go for the full day as its all for a good cause Lets hope its not standard issue bank holiday weather!

Its the length of the collector assembly, varying it effects the engine speed at which the standing waves in the exhaust flow scavenge the most (and least!) gas from the combustion chamber. Its similar in concept to tuning inlet tract lengths and both (along with many other variables!) are why its possible to get volumetric efficiency greater than 100%. Like most things in engineering there is no single "right answer", its all a matter of compromise against your desired performance targets, that all said its very easy to bugger it all up if the various components aren't matched to the same set of targets! OEMs will spend a lot of time looking at this using software packages such as Ricardo Wave before dyno testing to validate and refine the models. I do not claim to be an expert in any of this, but my boss used to design engines at Toyota and then Renault F1 (before they were shit!) so I've gleamed what I can him!

After this morning I'm 99% certain I'll be removing all the pipework chod as well! Will drive around for a week or so with it blocked and then remove it again to confirm.

It looks like a Type A from the pictures Mark has posted, but have asked on that thread to be sure

Really interested to see how this does, is it a Type A or Type B Mark?

Crikey! I'd read that going through the FT86 forum last night as well. Looks like its Type B - 250 collector for me then! Will put the difference in price towards ceramic coating costs, I'm going to try and negotiate a discount for that from a company a colleague has used previously, will share details when/if I get a reply. I've seen that Abbey motorsport have got a Type A to try soon, hopefully the results from that stir up sufficient interest to get us over the line for others in the group buy.

Great, thanks. Just need to get the thumb screws out on two more power hungry NA peeps now!