S18 RSG
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Everything posted by S18 RSG
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Cheers Tom. I'm gonna be wrapping mine also, but I want to find the whistle first. If it is a small leak of some description, I think I'd rather fix it than just mask it. Will only end up being a problem further down the line if ignored now anyway.
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Small update, given that most people already know that the manifold is already fitted, and sounding great apart from that annoying little whistle. Have the car booked in at Abbey on the 7th of June (perfect excuse for my first day off of the year) for a retune, and hopefully to find and fix the whistle. This bank holiday weekend I got around to making some small tweaks. All visual, but enough to just finish off the outside before the new spoiler is decided on. Cracked out the plastidip once again in an attempt to recreate the bronze colour of my wheels on the front and rear badges. Came fairly close I think. Not 100% perfect, but not bad for platidip. Also took the opportunity to fit my new plates. More so just to get rid of the front plate holder, but I like the new look too:
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I currently average around 28mpg, partly due to my heavy foot, and partly due to the car running a little rich at the moment. When the car was running well, that number was up around 30-32mpg, which suggests around 320-350 miles to a full tank, which is about right. Only time I've ever seen upwards of 40mpg is after resetting the trip computer just before a 100 mile motorway journey, the duration of which I kept at 65mph (as I was on my way back to the office and was scheduled to arrive early ) and I got around 47mpg. I'd love to be able to get that every day, fair play to you @popkid.
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I ordered mine a few months ago and Dan told me there were some issues with the manufacturing process of the all red version, so the manufacturer stopped supplying them worldwide for a while. They may be back out on sale now, but in case you don't get an answer for a while, that's the last I heard.
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Newbee from Newcastle - current VXR owner soon to be GT86 owner
S18 RSG replied to KellyStark's topic in Newbies
You have a lot more self control than most people on this forum lol -
Newbee from Newcastle - current VXR owner soon to be GT86 owner
S18 RSG replied to KellyStark's topic in Newbies
Catless manifold with secondary stock cat causes no issues at MOT, and is surprisingly quiet. Most of the noise, I found, came from the catback, not the manifold. -
Newbee from Newcastle - current VXR owner soon to be GT86 owner
S18 RSG replied to KellyStark's topic in Newbies
As above. Good quality catless manifolds start at around £500, and go up over £1000. Air filter, £30. Remap £500. So budget around £1000-1200 and you're looking at around 30hp peak increase, 20lb ft of torque peak. and around 35-40lbft at the torque dip IIRC (please correct me if I'm wrong) -
Newbee from Newcastle - current VXR owner soon to be GT86 owner
S18 RSG replied to KellyStark's topic in Newbies
Welcome to the forum. Do yourself a favour and research manifolds before you remap. If, like me, you remap then decide you want to get rid of the infamous torque dip, you'll need a manifold. Better off just getting one first and only having to pay for 1 session of tuning time -
I never thought the new show would be a big success anyway, but I thought they took a big step in the right direction with Chris Harris and Sabine. Before the show, I thought they could have used Chris Harris and Sabine to do all road tests/track tests, Matt to do all the odd tests (like James May used to do, going out to America to test electric cars, China to test their cars etc.) and then just use Chris Evans to do the interviews and news etc. with the occasional driving piece. Having Chris Evans do all the presenting, 80% of the narration and all the interviews and news just shows that they were desperate to find a Clarkson replacement, rather than playing to the new lineups' strengths. Top Gear with Clarkson, May and Hammond was no longer a car show, but a car biassed entertainment show, which was a shame, but at least they got the entertainment bit down. This new one is neither a car show or an entertainment show based off this initial evidence. Let's hope things change.
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My 1320 came with all necessary gaskets, I ordered it about 1 month ago.
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Pretty annoyed I didn't make this. I woke up at 5:30 and felt like shit, so went back to bed. Looks like you guys had a good morning though.
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I'm no expert, but if I were to have that problem I would assume brake fluid. What DOT rating fluid are you running? If the DOT rating is a little low (i.e not DOT 5 or DOT 5.1) then you might find you're exceeding the "effective operating temperatures" (can't think of a better term), and therefore, in effect, thinning out the brake fluid (much like what happens when oil gets too hot). Aside from that, perhaps a set of braided lines may be a worthwhile upgrade, as standard brake lines would be likely to expand as the fluid heats up, and obviously with a larger diameter pipe, you have less pressure, and therefore need more brake input for the same result. Hopefully someone else has some first hand experience, as all I'm saying is based on fluid theory more than experience.
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As Keith said, the auto box is 'Ok' for a traditional manual, certainly a step up from manual boxes of 10 years ago, but with all the dual clutch boxes these days, the 86 auto is really sluggish. Manual shifting isn't immediate and isn't particularly smooth, and downshifts still feel like they're being done through jelly mounts. Perhaps I'm just a little spoiled as all I have to compare it to are good quality Mercedes autos, the DSG and a tiptronic in my old 911. The 911 gearbox was dreadful, so the 86 was a step up from that, but still light years away from a DSG or well sorted Mercedes auto.
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If you've ever driven a DSG or ZF gearbox, you won't buy the auto GT86. I had a DSG before my GT86, and like Keith the only car my local dealer had was an auto. It was dreadful in comparison. I wouldn't have bought it anyway, it's a sports car so in my eyes it needs a manual box, but it's just straight up not good enough in the modern day where autos are actually very good.
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Before if all gets deleted (which I'm more than happy for it to be): Do you not see how hypocritical you're being? You're calling people on this forum, who are generally well liked, twats, or shit talkers, for no reason other than disagreeing with you, or trying to buy something off you and it not going 100% your way. You're also assuming that "90%" of people on this forum have no idea about "rare, quality Japanese parts" and decided that, because of that assumption, they're not worth your time. Anyone can buy a Ferrari and assume that makes them a car expert. If £300 was a bargain, someone would have likely bought it off you just to resell. Nobody has bought it yet, and I suspect that got little to do with the product itself, which I'm sure is every bit as great as you say. Stop blaming everyone else for being "uneducated", or a "twat", and take my advice before it gets deleted and you forget.
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Welcome to the forum To expand on @daidaiiro's point and briefly answer @Willtl's question regarding the remap, I too would recommend. Main benefits are in terms of drivability. The engine revs and idles much smoother, no more cold start to deafen yourself, and a nicer feeling pull at lower revs thanks to a small increase in mid range torque. Couple that to the far improved throttle response, 4 switchable maps to give you plenty of driving options, and of course more power (who doesn't want that?), easily one of the best mods you can do to a stock car. Couple with some supporting mods and you're laughing.
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Isn't the point of a sales pitch to explain the item you're selling? So if people "don't even know what it is and see it as a strut brace", isn't that your fault for not explaining what makes it so special? And with that in mind, what exactly makes it so special aside from being Titanium? It still does the same job any other brace would do surely? Also, FWIW I think Jordan was being perfectly reasonable by offering to meet you at a middle ground, I did the same thing when I sold my suspension on this very forum not 2 months ago, and it sold within a week. Being a genuine and helpful person goes a long way. As a side note, you should thank me for the additional attention I'm drawing to your "sale thread" by continuing this discussion.
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Your sale thread started 7 months ago and you've still not sold. It seems like you missed out selling to Jordan thanks to being a bit uptight on details, and even though there are plenty of people interested, you're still being uptight, rather than actually making a sale. I thought you would benefit from some advice. Feel free to chime in on any thread I make in the future, because I'm sure everyone will take serious advice from someone with that attitude... GLWTS.
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My manifold was shipped from California to my doorstep for ~£70 (maybe slightly more, would have to check my customs docs again), in 5 business days. It was no more hassle than organising a Parcelforce package in this country tbh. Anyway, regardless of what price it can be got for elsewhere, the point I hoped you would take away from my post was that you should perhaps expect to lose out on more money than you are, as is backed up by the interest in the product, but lack of interest in the price. At the end of the day, quality or not, I think everyone knows that a strut brace is more for looks than handling performance, and that sort of money for a visual upgrade is a lot., especially on the second hand market. I was trying to help you with the sale, not get you worked up.
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No need to PM. I spoke to Nengun about them, as they're now selling the product for ~£370. I asked if I could organise shipment myself, using the same shipping company I used for my manifold, shipping and customs from the US would be less than £50, and that's before taking any discount into account, which you can normally negotiate 5-10% off new products. Even if not, it's still only £50 more to buy new than used.
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FYI, the reason I'd still be put off even at £300, is that these can be bought new, with shipping for high £300's. Collection from Nottingham would cost me £60-70 in fuel, so I'd effectively be buying a second hand item for 95% of the price of new. We all understand that quality costs money, but if you want a sale, you'll likely have to accept a bigger loss than you're willing to take. Just a bit of friendly advice.
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I would count myself in that group, but I doubt the price will ever come down as far as I would like it to
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http://www.86worx.com/key-s-86-steering-wheel.html Shame it's so ugly really
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For many reasons the auto will be far worse to drift than the manual. To list a few: - Lack of clutch removes a very reliable form of initiating a drift (clutch kick) - Gear ratios are quite a lot longer in the auto, so it's harder to keep the revs where you want them - Even in full manual mode, I would imagine the auto box would still automatically shift up at redline, or down at low revs There are more reasons that I'm sure others will mention, but these are, to me, the most important.
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I'm not sure how carrying a blonde girl around all the time will keep him cool, plus, we want to save weight here, surely a human weighs more than an air con pump. Please think before typing