S18 RSG

Mark managed to get pops and bangs working on mine when I still had second stock cat in place, before turbo. It popped like crazy. However, the car failed MOT by a country mile with the stock second cat in place, so I don't think it's exactly healthy to run a pops and bangs map with a cat.

Hmm, interesting. A bit of information around on the US forum, and a video on Youtube shows this adjusting the lights too. No idea why nobody else seems to have found this, my only thoughts are that maybe the amount of adjustment isn't enough if you go too low, or the way in which the adjustment is done using this method is wrong, but I don't know. I'll have to crack out the sockets at lunch time and give this a go.

Do you have a Primo? The Primo came without auto lights, in which case I can understand why you might be able to adjust the lights with a bolt. Most of us have the auto HID lights, which are auto levelling using a fixed bar on one of the rear lower control arms. The only way to adjust the height is through software or by replacing the bar with a shorter one (the Cusco unit).

I'm lowered around the same amount, but on coilovers, and my headlight range is pretty poor. I can't imagine how bad it is (or was) for those lowered 40mm+

Yep

Possibly a ground wire? Not 100% sure obviously, but only thing I can think.

I'm turbo'd, and most of the roads around here have had a layer of ice for some time, and not even had a slight scare yet. One of the main reasons I run Vredesteins all year. Nothing better than a summer performance tyre that performs just as well throughout winter.

Couple of things the nay-sayers perhaps aren't considering. The Cusco (or similar) solution is around £40, this is around double that, which ok, is a big difference, but it's still only £40 more. This solution, however, takes 5 minutes to fit (literally 4 wires), and can be adjusted in 1 second. The leveller bar takes probably 30 minutes to fit if you have the right tools and equipment, and have no issues removing bolts etc. It then probably takes at least 10 minutes to adjust, should you need to. For me and I imagine a few others, this solution would be perfect, as I like to fiddle with suspension setups a fair bit, mostly due to the variety of roads I drive around (I take my car to steelworks and power plants a lot for example). Having the ability to adjust the headlights with the press of a button is easily worth £40 for me, for those reasons among others. Of course, if the dealer can do it for free or cheap via ODB, then that's maybe a reason not to spend £80 on this, but again, that's still massively inconvenient for lots of people. Pics/instructions supplied by @James@Amber

I'll post something up when I get home. I was intrigued also, so asked James @ Amber to send me some details. Have wiring diagrams and stuff too.

Yeah lemme just shake my money tree real quick... Just spent 5 grand on a turbo, if I was gonna get a BBK, it would be K Sport or similar due to price.

I tried convincing myself I didn't need a turbo... I'm also now trying to convice myself that I don't need a BBK, so I'm sure I'll have one on order soon enough. Just do it. Also, welcome to the club Gary.

Welcome Car looks lovely and clean, I'm sure mine has looked like that at some point in the past. Out of interest, which modifications are you looking into, and what thread gave you the inspiration?

You know me Mike, always up for a meet. Time and date sounds good to me also.

Good to see another fairly close member, also good to see you plan on going down the TD turbo route. If someone gets around to organising a meet in our vicinity, I'll be happy to take you for a spin in mine so you can experience it, assuming you've not already anyway. Hasn't failed to impress anyone that's been out with me so far

I've posted at least 4 or 5 meets on here. Almost every time I met up with guys from around here I posted it on the forum, some even weeks in advance. Only ever had 1 person outside of my normal group come along, so I stopped bothering for the most part. Of course, if I planned to do a long weekend drive or similar I'd post it up, but if people can't be bothered to put the effort in to drive to the meet, I struggle to find a reason to put the effort in to organise it beyond the normal people.

I already do most of the organising down this way, but that's mainly because there's only 2 or 3 people around here who regularly attend meets, so I just tend to send them a text or whatever. If there were more interest perhaps from you guys in the Midlands/West Mids to come and join us, I'd be happy to organise more public meets around here in a formal capacity.

Buddy Club units are around £300 I believe. Don't know of anyone with them fitted in the UK, but I'm sure plenty in the US. May be worth a look.

1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-JZA80-MK4-JZS147-V12-1GZ-FE-1GZ-Century-Supra-VVT-I-ENGINE-MOTOR-RARE-/201593878733 2: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-JZA80-MK4-1GZ-FE-V12-1GZ-VVTI-Complete-Engine-W-Trans-ECU-/322379348078 3: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-JZA80-MK4-JZS147-V12-1GZ-FE-1GZ-Century-VVT-I-Front-ENGINE-MOTOR-1GZ-/201723493727 4: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-JDM-Toyota-JZA80-MK4-JZS147-V12-1GZ-FE-1GZ-Century-VVT-I-Front-ENGINE-MOTOR-/201763955604 Ok, so I lied, there's 4. Yes, I know that's US eBay and no I've not read the articles to check they're even legit, I just saw them when I searched for the engine to find the weight this morning.

3 on eBay right now.

The M70 has something like 300hp and probably weighs somewhere in the region of double the FA20. I admire your ambition, but consider your options before spending any money. You'd be making the cae significantly worse to drive (given that weight distribution and CoG would be shifted forward) just for 100hp and something unique. That's a lot of work and money for little reward. If you didn't care about power and just wanted a V12, a 1GZ-FE might be a better shout as it's a Toyota engine already. Makes around 300hp/350lbft and probably fairly cheap, but same downsides as mentioned already.

Battery isn't covered after 3 years. I know this, as I'm currently in a battle with Toyota to claim back the £120 I've just had to spend to replace the old 48Ah battery, which had died on me on multiple occasions.

Air filter doesn't really "do" much, but there's no arguing with proven gains on a dyno, so for <£50 it's a no brainer purchase. I bet very few people would notice if their aftermarket panel filter was swapped with an OEM filter without them knowing. The car might feel/sound fractionally different, but very few people would instantly know their filter had been changed. So no, I stick by my point

Imagine, with the standard car, when turning (say around a roundabout) and you start to feel the car pushing wide, you turn the wheel more to turn in tighter. In the stock car, you would just understeer and not turn in any further. With a bit of negative camber, you can turn in further, and the car will just grip and grip and grip. Very rarely will you understeer unless driving like a complete clown.

Sounds like you're both agreeing and disagreeing with me at the same time. Something lost in translation maybe? Smoother airflow isn't a guess, it's a fact. Look at a dyno comparison of the two (or more easily, just ask a tuner) and you'll see the difference, but as you rightly said, it's such a small difference, it's almost certainly not worth the money. That being said, a silicon replacement can be picked up for around £50. Almost nothing worth that sort of money is gonna do much.

Camber bolts are the way to go. Even if you can only get a degree of negative camber it makes the world of difference. Recommended settings depend on who you're asking, but as a range which will suit most, ideally 1.5-2.0 degrees negative on the front, and 1.0-2.0 degrees negative on the rear, ideally with slightly more negative camber front compared to rear. I personally run around -1.5deg front, and -2deg rear, mainly because I am limited with my setup (no camber adjustable top mounts, and no camber adjustable rear LCAs), but even with my non-ideal setup, I can feel the difference between 0 front camber and -1 degree like it's night and day. I'd have to dig out my printout to tell you my toe settings, but I'm sure someone will pipe up with an actual answer before I get home, but most experienced owners have settled on similar setups I believe, so I'm sure they'll give you a similar answer to that I would give you.