Willtl

Thanks for the help so far, but I'm still being left a little confused. Going back to your comment that 17X8 et 35 would be a perfect fitment, this would be with the 225/45R17 tyre, correct? Church mentioned that this is almost the same on the inside but 25.7mm more outside. So I assume this means it would fit without any danger of rubbing, but stick out 2.5CM more than the current wheels. Is there any danger of MOT failure with this?

What does 17x8 et 35 mean? Are you saying I can go to 225/45R17 without any problem on a stock car? If I wanted to go a bit bigger, can I switch to 225/45R18 without problem?

Dodgy gumshield front end. Less dealers, and worst customer service? Audio system. Gives delusions of grandeur... [emoji6] So nothing other than the audio system (which is the first thing people will change).

What do you consider is lower spec in the BRZ compared to the GT86? The only thing that stands out for me is the audio system.

I have sensors and a camera in our other cars but just sensors in the BRZ. Camera is definitely better IMO.

What happened to the OP? I'm not exactly a regular poster, but don't remember seeing anything from him for a while.

Are the speakers in the BRZ and GT86 the same? I'm no Audiophile but I've never thought "the rear speakers sound utter crap".

Although my coolant is not at minimum, it is nowhere near maximum and I'd like to top it up. The manual says "Subaru super coolant" or similar high-quality blah blah blah. Ideally I'd like something I could buy over the counter in Halfords or elsewhere, what brand and type should I be using?

For people with the stock tyres, are you all running at 35psi for road use? I would like to soften up the ride a bit and was wondering whether it would be safe to knock a few psi out of the tyres to see if that improves things for me.

It was thanks for the kind offer, but I'd feel terrible to accept (so I won't).

Thanks. I live in Grays. Have a sister-in-law in Braintree but my wife and her don't talk anymore so that is one visit we no longer make. I would feel terribly stingy driving up to see you for a free sip of coolant!

This seems really wrong to me. I know you don't want to go back to the dealer, but this needs to be sorted properly. I suggest you tell the dealer your concerns and say that the evidence so far suggests an improper previous repair and this needs to be sorted properly. Tell them either they should repair it (and ensure there are photos to show what has been done) or you can get it done privately with the body shop invoicing them directly. It might be best if you put this in an e-mail and then follow up with a call. I would be furious if I bought a car and then had to start faffing about with an investigation into what is wrong with it!

I have a bit of an issue with rust (probably due to my early car days where my Ford Capri's body was basically rust, fibre glass and filler) and I can't have a car knowing it has rust or worrying that there is a potential rust entry point. For me, taking care of that is more important than ensuring paint work is 100%. I'm a bit concerned that the dealer is trying to take the cheapest option, will Chipsaway be using the correct corrosion protection or just rubbing off the rust they see? I would ask the dealer to put in writing (an e-mail) the maximum they are prepared to pay for the repair (tell them that it is so you can show it to your local body shop so they know what budget they are working to so you don't raise suspicion). I would also ask your body shop to put in writing what they think needs to be done with the cost. This should then be your starting point for discussion - tell the dealer that the body shop has identified what needs to be done and you are happy for the dealer to do the work, but they must put in writing what has been done because if the problem comes back in the future, you need to have a record of what was done.

If the car is rusting, it needs to be dealt with properly. I think you will have a problem here because really you want this work to be carried out by an authorised Toyota bodyshop because if not, you will need to keep going back to the same place if there are problems. I wouldn't pin your hopes on rejecting the car because I think you may only be able to do so for mechanical issues or something that renders the car not fit for purpose. The dealer can probably fight a rejection claim on the basis that it is a 2nd hand car (and therefore there is no expectation that it will be immaculate) and that they probably aren't obligated to reveal any previous damage. I think you need to work with the dealer but keep it pleasant - compensation is probably unlikely but they should be able to arrange a loan car whilst they have yours. I've had mixed experience on compensation in the past. The dealer I bought my brand new BRZ from offered me nothing for the inconvenience and cost of going back multiple times to let them fix the parking sensor they installed, but an independent garage who serviced my 156 gave me petrol money the time there was a problem with an oil filter that had to be replaced. Some people understand the value of customer service, others just want your money and are then no longer interested.

Hmm, with that in mind I think I'll opt for the lower load rating as the BRZ feels bumpy enough.

I always leave my car unlocked in the garage although the immobiliser is on. I only have the lower powered battery but so far, I've left it 2 weeks without problem.

I like the side skirts, but I think your spoiler is a little too large for my tastes. Are there any recommendations for places in the south east who do "cosmetic surgery" (e.g. source, paint and fit body kits). I think I might be interested in some minor cosmetic work but don't fancy doing it myself.

Was there a feature in the new series?

Just get a good old fashioned crook lock/stop lock. Alternatively, if you have keyless entry, simply swallow your keys.

what kind of money could I reasonably expect? It is a WRC blue BRZ, registered November 2015. Mileage is currently less than 8.5K, has dealer fitted rear parking sensor and after market DAB/sat nav, arm rest and tinted rear windows. The car has not been to any track days and is one owner from new. Would have asked this question in the "for sale" sub forum but it says that is only for selling so not sure where else to post this question.

I think I'm going to wait until near winter before replacing. Lots of tread left and should hopefully be clear of poor rear grip for most of this year.

We want any car would have given just over £15k so I think 16-17 is probably realistic if you have the patience. I've not been happy with the car since I've had it (due to it giving me back ache) and the most recent run in with the dealer and Subaru pushed me closer to just wanting to get rid of it. I was planning on trading for a 330I m sport coupe last week but I just didn't want to spend any more money so I'll probably just keep it for another few years and then let my son have it.

Thanks, didn't realise the offer was still on! I'll try to have a look tomorrow.

Thanks. I think there was a deal at Costco on Goodyear a couple of weeks back but the deal is now for Michelin (£50 voucher when you buy a set of 4). Think I'll wait for the next round of Goodyear deals.

I'm still thinking about tyres (currently Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3 or Michelin Pilot Sport 4) but as someone who doesn't go on the track, I have some other considerations - road noise and comfort. For people who have these tyres, how do they compare with the Primacy's on both of these factors? As a bonus question, how does the load factor number actually come into play? Looking at the Goodyear, it seems there is an option of 87 or 91 with 91 giving a 'C' rating for fuel efficiency vs 'E' on the 87. By comparison, the Primacy's have an 'E' rating for fuel efficiency. Has anyone switching from the Primacy's noticed any improvement on the consumption side of things?