Herbie86

Particularly look at the LH bush with one bolt above the other. This is a manual trans car.

The slip could be something to do with it and I confirmed Snow Mode always starts in 2nd. Maybe the throttle mapping is sub-optimal for 1st gear starts in our particular car. Prior to the inserts I could avoid the lurch by gentle starts but that required a deliberate effort. No problem now. Changes in Drive feel a bit smoother and the paddle changes crisper too which to me points to sloppiness in the drive train somewhere. Apart from the start lurch (which was always tolerable but always felt unrefined), the other surging was always noticeable in 2nd if I paddled down to it to push out of a corner. I always put it down to twisting / untwisting of the tail shaft. That is 60% improved with the diff inserts. If anyone is tempted to do this simple and inexpensive mod, start off lurch or not, I think you will feel a refinement. The fact that it is available suggests it is valid. There's a youtube somewhere with a camera behind the diff that shows about 30mm of rocking.

Only 49000Km , never tracked, been like it from new 2013. Try comparing starting off in Normal mode then again in Snow Mode to highlight the lurch. If you don't notice it then count yourself lucky.

We have an auto. I did not like the occasional elastic band surging feeling, occasional bouncy changes and always disliked the lurch when starting from standing. I too checked for harm with the Snow mode trick but could not get a straight answer. Solution: have just fitted the differential bush inserts part KDT925 by Whiteline. There was no noticeable increase in noise/vibration/harshness, a 60% improvement in the surging and a 100% improvement in the starting lurch. Even the wife noticed it. Cost $60 - $80 and simple enough to DIY or get it done next time the car is up on the hoist. It is a no-brainer for the auto imho.

Thanks yes but then larger movements are required and I do not want to reduce the sharpness. Looks like I'm doomed.

Thanks for your considered comments Church, 'tho not what I wanted to hear. I do all the right things you mentioned. Fact is, the steering is very good but it was actually better on my prior Nissan 200SX turbo that I kept for 17 years. It was deadly accurate too, slightly lighter, turned in sharper, (?variable ratio or teensy passive rear wheel steering or both.. I never could confirm) just as communicative and the lock was way better. Only downside was occasional uncouth "rack rattle" e.g. over railway lines. I've had the '86 for 4 years and still yearn for the Nissan steering, not to mention the extra torque but I've got used to that. I use an extra bit of pressure in the front tyres which helps and surprisingly has little effect on harshness.

I'd like to try out our GTS86 with the steering lightened up a little. Is there a simple way to do it e.g. by a voltage adjustment somewhere?

If you go for a turbo system focused on low down grunt and drive-ability you probability will be changing up earlier with associated longevity benefits. I have had two cars that came with turbos as standard (Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo 7 years and Nissan 200SX seventeen years). The former was an all or nothing affair that gave a thrill when the turbo did its thing but a dog before that. The Nissan turbo setup was so well integrated that it always delivered linearly from zero and lag was a non-event. I miss that even after 3.5 years with my '86. Both the Nissan and '86 have the same power KW but the torque 50%? higher in the Nissan. Wear and tear on the oil may change significantly so oil analysis will guide you with that.

BRILLIANT thanks CanaryWundaboy. I do not recall ever noticing it flashing so I must do more aggressive driving to ensure it is working. Normally I rely on shrieks from my wife. Did you just go for a burn now and take that pic?? If so, someone does not have their seatbelt done up, you drove with the handbrake on and there's something amiss with your engine.

I have not investigated the problem but could you use a bead of silicone rubber on the edge of the plastic? Smear the mating metal surface thinly with vaseline to prevent the silicone sticking there. Before the rubber cures, fit the lights just firmly enough to ensure the silicone makes contact all round. Wait until the silicone is cured then tighten the lights a little more to compress the rubber a little. There was a couple who did not know the difference between vaseline or KY jelly and silicone rubber. Every time they made passionate love their windows fell out.

Where is the TC light please?

There's nothing wrong I am confident of that. It is just that take off is a little like a JUMP off unless I consciously feed in throttle. It is not a big deal. I am sure that if you compare the modes you will know exactly what I'm on about.

Brilliant. Did you have it done for the "pulling away reason" or did you reap the benefit as a side effect. Please elaborate if you know the details.

Thanks. I will research.

I wondered about that but thought the torque converter, which ,as I understand it, is fluid i.e. no mechanical contact to wear. HOWEVER, on another forum I was advised there ARE clutches involved that would wear more. Therefore I will stop the routine use of SNOW mode. Maybe the accelerator can be re-mapped ?