Herbie86

We have an auto. I did not like the occasional elastic band surging feeling, occasional bouncy changes and always disliked the lurch when starting from standing. I too checked for harm with the Snow mode trick but could not get a straight answer. Solution: have just fitted the differential bush inserts part KDT925 by Whiteline. There was no noticeable increase in noise/vibration/harshness, a 60% improvement in the surging and a 100% improvement in the starting lurch. Even the wife noticed it. Cost $60 - $80 and simple enough to DIY or get it done next time the car is up on the hoist. It is a no-brainer for the auto imho.

Particularly look at the LH bush with one bolt above the other. This is a manual trans car.

The slip could be something to do with it and I confirmed Snow Mode always starts in 2nd. Maybe the throttle mapping is sub-optimal for 1st gear starts in our particular car. Prior to the inserts I could avoid the lurch by gentle starts but that required a deliberate effort. No problem now. Changes in Drive feel a bit smoother and the paddle changes crisper too which to me points to sloppiness in the drive train somewhere. Apart from the start lurch (which was always tolerable but always felt unrefined), the other surging was always noticeable in 2nd if I paddled down to it to push out of a corner. I always put it down to twisting / untwisting of the tail shaft. That is 60% improved with the diff inserts. If anyone is tempted to do this simple and inexpensive mod, start off lurch or not, I think you will feel a refinement. The fact that it is available suggests it is valid. There's a youtube somewhere with a camera behind the diff that shows about 30mm of rocking.

Only 49000Km , never tracked, been like it from new 2013. Try comparing starting off in Normal mode then again in Snow Mode to highlight the lurch. If you don't notice it then count yourself lucky.

I'd like to try out our GTS86 with the steering lightened up a little. Is there a simple way to do it e.g. by a voltage adjustment somewhere?

Thanks yes but then larger movements are required and I do not want to reduce the sharpness. Looks like I'm doomed.

Thanks for your considered comments Church, 'tho not what I wanted to hear. I do all the right things you mentioned. Fact is, the steering is very good but it was actually better on my prior Nissan 200SX turbo that I kept for 17 years. It was deadly accurate too, slightly lighter, turned in sharper, (?variable ratio or teensy passive rear wheel steering or both.. I never could confirm) just as communicative and the lock was way better. Only downside was occasional uncouth "rack rattle" e.g. over railway lines. I've had the '86 for 4 years and still yearn for the Nissan steering, not to mention the extra torque but I've got used to that. I use an extra bit of pressure in the front tyres which helps and surprisingly has little effect on harshness.

If you go for a turbo system focused on low down grunt and drive-ability you probability will be changing up earlier with associated longevity benefits. I have had two cars that came with turbos as standard (Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo 7 years and Nissan 200SX seventeen years). The former was an all or nothing affair that gave a thrill when the turbo did its thing but a dog before that. The Nissan turbo setup was so well integrated that it always delivered linearly from zero and lag was a non-event. I miss that even after 3.5 years with my '86. Both the Nissan and '86 have the same power KW but the torque 50%? higher in the Nissan. Wear and tear on the oil may change significantly so oil analysis will guide you with that.

BRILLIANT thanks CanaryWundaboy. I do not recall ever noticing it flashing so I must do more aggressive driving to ensure it is working. Normally I rely on shrieks from my wife. Did you just go for a burn now and take that pic?? If so, someone does not have their seatbelt done up, you drove with the handbrake on and there's something amiss with your engine.

I have not investigated the problem but could you use a bead of silicone rubber on the edge of the plastic? Smear the mating metal surface thinly with vaseline to prevent the silicone sticking there. Before the rubber cures, fit the lights just firmly enough to ensure the silicone makes contact all round. Wait until the silicone is cured then tighten the lights a little more to compress the rubber a little. There was a couple who did not know the difference between vaseline or KY jelly and silicone rubber. Every time they made passionate love their windows fell out.

Where is the TC light please?

I love our auto transmission but find normal taking off a little too sudden to be smooth unless I try hard. Knowing SNOW mode eliminates first gear and forces second I tried it. Voila! It pulls away strongly and smoothly. ...hills or the flat, gentle pedal or booting it. No sign of struggle. It works with the cruise control and VSC Sport (which I normally use) but not Sport so I am leaving it in SNOW mode all the time. If anyone knows of a downside, please share.

There's nothing wrong I am confident of that. It is just that take off is a little like a JUMP off unless I consciously feed in throttle. It is not a big deal. I am sure that if you compare the modes you will know exactly what I'm on about.

Brilliant. Did you have it done for the "pulling away reason" or did you reap the benefit as a side effect. Please elaborate if you know the details.

Thanks. I will research.

I wondered about that but thought the torque converter, which ,as I understand it, is fluid i.e. no mechanical contact to wear. HOWEVER, on another forum I was advised there ARE clutches involved that would wear more. Therefore I will stop the routine use of SNOW mode. Maybe the accelerator can be re-mapped ?

I just posted this elsewhere but I think it is appropriate here too. I love our auto transmission but find normal taking off a little too sudden to be smooth unless I try hard. Knowing SNOW mode eliminates first gear and forces second I tried it. Voila! It pulls away strongly and smoothly. ...hills or the flat, gentle pedal or booting it. No sign of struggle. It works with the cruise control and VSC Sport (which I normally use) but not Sport. I am leaving it in SNOW mode all the time. Downside is an extra step to my 18 steps to remember before blast off (see above). If anyone knows of any other downside, please share.

My sensor system does front and back and also has a bit of a mind of its own. I fitted it myself and purchased from China so no recourse is practical. It has a small screen indicating distances (accurate to the centimetre btw) and a beeper that can be switched off. It has a 2 minute period when it stays active after selecting reverse and that is by design, but it occasionally the display lights up long after that. The earth connection is to a gold plated point used by the reversing light so I think it is good. I have heard of small stray currents and wonder if they are getting in the system sometimes but I am no expert. Is there some sort of filter thing that can be inserted somewhere to absorb it or something? If you come up with a solution at your dealer, please post.

TIP: It is very easy to clean that awkward area around the wiper pivot if the bonnet is up. Make sure the wipers are down on the screen before lifting the bonnet.

The scribes of Wheels Magazine (Australia) and other magazines all seem to like the handling feel of the Mazda MX-5 saying, in various ways, the rear rolls somewhat and it turns in sharply. Since changing the tyre pressures of out GTS86 some time back to 38 front 34 rear I feel I have achieved similar. I can more readily distinguish between what the rear and front are doing and it feels more chuckable. There's a roundabout I go through which required me to move my hands on the wheel but now a quick twist left and right and away I go. It doesn't feel harder at the front either, just sharper. I still prefer the '86 for the hard roof, rear seats and adjustable steering wheel, but reckon I have the best of both worlds now. Give it a go and tell me I'm wrong.

Good grief! Great trick thanks but another step to think about before proceeding. I am just getting used to my starting procedure at last, namely seat belt on, foot on brake pedal, touch start button, release brake pedal, press cruise control, press VSC Sport Mode, touch Agree on satnav screen, press door lock button , check mirrors, check for instrument warning lights, check gauges, foot on brake pedal again, select appropriate gear, check mirrors (and maybe reversing camera) , release brake pedal and drive off WHOOPS ... forgot the handbrake again.

Yes, the next stage with flexible oled displays covering the inside of all vision obstructors and another across the bottom of the windscreen and rear window so the forward bodywork and boot could be seen through would be the great. Why stop there.... do the roof too and every car could be a convertible without messing up your hair. It should not be too expensive once oleds come down as cameras are really cheap already. I forget the name but there is a newer display with enormous brightness range that might be even more suitable. The the body shape designers would have much more freedom. The mind boggles. Why are Jaguar, Rover only turning on the displays when the driver looks in their direction? Why not permanent 360 degrees and passengers could admire the view?

I am sure you are right and I was looking into geo setup but then I thought I would try the tyre-pressure idea and it worked adequately for me with no tyre wear consequences either after around 6,000 km. Our tyres wear absolutely evenly and the best of any car we have ever owned and no wheel alignment has been necessary so far (33,000 km)

It's an issue all cars have lo greater or lesser extent. I look forward to the day when there is a user angled camera on the outsides of all the pillars and user angled screens on the inside, thus, in effect making the pillars have windows in them. Patent applied

I think it would be prudent to protect the plastic over the instruments with something in case the screwdriver slips. Murphy's Law dictates that would happen to me. I too hate dash glare in the glass. I got a black dash mat which helped but the fibres glint somewhat. I tried spraying a piece of the same dash mat material with matte black paint and it helped so I have sprayed the whole dash mat now. So far so good after a week. Black velvet is excellent but fades quickly. Why do windscreens not contain UV filters? Two years previously I "laminated" aluminium foil to the underside of the mat to insulate the dash against radiant heat. I did the same with our previous car and after 17 years the o.e. dash looked like new. Mind you the heat of our Australian sun is fierce. You may need to leave out an area of foil if it shields your satnav.