alucardo

Slight update. As from previous posts I intended to purchase a BBK so I did and now I need to bed them in as with most of the country its not really quite ready for some big safe stops Obviously very dirty but you get the idea. Also changed the rear pads and fensport headlight adjuster. So roll on Blyton on the 21st so I can test those brakes out Also thanks again to Mike and TD for fitting

Turn off traction control and see if the same behaviour happens?

Reyland Motorsport are your best best for a bbk. I have just ordered mine. 1500 for AP kit is a decent deal.

32-35 A B and Motorway Alps trip last year had 32mpg until the last blast through France and ended up 30mpg.

Could troubleshooting article for diff's in general http://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/

Swallow your pride and put it back on.

There is alot of info and discussions on the other forums regarding this always worth a quick google search http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/obd-ii-bluetooth-dongles_topic1764.html http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18063

Standard GT86 17 alloys with winter tyres would be a good option. They look ok and you see the odd set 2nd hand set for £200ish + winter tyres and your done.

Rear light condensation, had mine changed on warranty but could be expensive to fix replace if an earlier model out of warranty.

Interesting. I am not trying to make my car like a Porsche I was more guaging the return on investment on a turbo/supercharger. I agree with most of what everyone has posted here I do occasionally. Out of interest @S18 RSG what issues have you had if you do not mind me asking?

You have both mirrored my thoughts. Yes the nut behind the wheel does need more work. I have uprated my suspension brakes to follow in the next couple of months. So yes more time on track is where I shall put the money. May have to look into some TSS this year and spend the money there having fun rather than trying to go faster at the moment. I have caught my fair share of quick stuff on track and I'm not fussed about a turbo for track as I have great fun with it there with out one.

I had a res catback on mine for a year then went with a manifold and one cat delete this brought up the noise by about 25% in my estimation. It also has other benefits and would be my recommendation.

So had the car on setting 12 for the past 2 weekends and finally got a spirited drive out yesterday even if it was abit greasy. 12 is a crossover point between comfortable for the road in all aspects and being more focused for short bursts. I tend to drive the midland tick well at least part of it. So for my testing yesterday I did part of the root setting 12 which was great no problems and then did setting 10 which again was great if a litle harsher in terms of overall ride quality. I would use 10 and no lower on UK roads and only go below 12 if I was setting up for a specific road as when I went back on the road on setting 10 the ride became some what harsher and annoying when all I wanted to do was cruise. So for UK road 14-12 seems to be a sweet spot anything below would become tiresome on a longer journey. So it has been left on 12 for the foreseeable future. http://www.drivingforpleasure.co.uk/roads-and-tours/uk-road.php?s=2011-12-01-the-midlands-tick

Mine these days is a weekend toy so I'm just testing to get a balance of comfort and aggression for B-road. 14 was comfortable and was a pleasure to drive however it was missing an edge. So I will drop and test and see what happens. I actually drove back from TD on 7 clicks and to my surprise was not uncomfortable for 1hour 30 minute drive back on mainly A roads admittedly. It also seemed to garner better traction our of islands but that might have been placebo being all excited over new shiney suspension. 300% difference in low speed damping between -20 and 0 clicks. - Thats a vast amount to cover.

Thought I would give a quick review of the MP20's so far. I have had them 14 clicks from firm as per Ohlins instructions and recommendations this falls into the general driving arena. So far they are a level above stock for general comfort driving especially at slower speed and their ability to soak up bumps. When I had the mugen 5-way adjustable suspension on the Integra Type R they felt like this and they where the best road/track compromise suspension I have ever owned. As of now the ohlins are shaping up to be even better. I will be taking the Ohlins to 10 clicks from firm which is for winding roads next weekend and will have a hoon on some of my favourite roads to see how they stack up. 7 clicks and below is for track but that will be next year.

Advertising with mods included via the forum first for a period of time before then returning to sell to the general public is how I would proceed. However to maximise cash de-modding and selling has always yielded better results for me on all my cars.

Forgot to update. I have had no recurrence of the issue since the oil switch was replaced so I'm happy and im happy that the gauge I installed is bang on according to Toyota after their testing.

I have noticed my oil pressure light flicker at idle around 600 rpm. It disappears under any form of throttle input and goes away once driving even when it then again idles its not longer there. It is the first time I have noticed it. I have an oil pressure gauge that seems to indicate 0.65-0.7 (kpa x100) at idle. Car is fully warm when I saw it today. Oil is topped up. Low oil pressure I think is reported 0.2-0.3 psi unless anyone can correct me? Either way I have parked the car up and will take it to a garage, just wondering if anyone has any further info? Gauge below https://www.epracing.co.uk/index.php/parts/performance-electronics/performance-gauges/645/282/gauges-d1/60mm-gauges/d1-spec-oil-pressure-60mm-detail.html

Bloody hell @Mike@TD.co.uk stop attacking my bank balance...

I could have gotten 1.5 neg camber but it's mainly a road car so stayed close to stock. I've had -2 camber and more before and can be a chore on some roads. I was about to buy the black kit myself then the suspension came up. So will be next year now.,

This is when cost comes into it: 300 new disc 150 new pads Which will likely wear quicker if grooved, there is also no guarantee that they will solve my problem. They are also likely to screech like most pads/discs do for the GT86 so a BBK is steep upfront but you reep long term through consumables and no lost track days down to brakes.

I have some Ohlins mp20 rear LCA and front camber bolts going on the car at the weekend. So I was just wondering what settings people would recommend. I will be following the phlins guide of 20mm front 15mm rear for lowering but as for camber toe im still undecided. My primary use is road with the odd trackday thrown in so was basically going to set up as standard or perhaps carry some camber on the front. I prefer my car more neutral in balance more than anything else. Front: Camber: 0 +/- 45' (0 +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 0°45' (0.75°) or less) Caster (Reference): 5°54' (5.90°) Steering Axis Inclination (Reference): 15°31' (15.52°) Toe (Each Wheel): 0°00' +/- 0°11' (0.00° +/- 0.19°) Toe (Total): 0 +/- 3.0 mm (0 +/- 0.1181 in.) Rear: Camber: -1°12' +/- 45' (-1.20° +/- 0.75°) (Right/Left Difference: 45' (0.75°) or less) Toe (Each Wheel): C + D: 0°10' +/- 0°15' (0.16° +/-0.24°) Toe (Total): 2.0 +/- 3.0 mm(0.0787 +/- 0.1181 in.)

Thanks for the detailed reply. On the lowering front I am just going off what Ohlins have recommended. Im perfectly fine with stock height as I prefer function over form. I will have camber bolts giving about 1.5degree at the front and whiteline LCA. The car for me is fine on track in standard form and im not chasing laptimes so id prefer it setup primarily for road. So adding more camber to the front and aiming for 1.5 and going 1.2 negative camber at the rear and keeping standard toe might be my best option to keep the car neutral and road friendly.

I used RBF600 and similar in all my cars and I have never managed to boil them. So never needed SRF so never incurred that cost for fluid. Think your car would have to be seriously quick or heavy to boil it.

No argument from me. Had them also fade in the Alps. Though tbh Alps are tougher than most tracks especially on the descent. Its why I looked into BBK's with good advice from people like @ade and @will300 . I would have bought some myself but some tasty suspension came up. Ultimately @Lauren I think a BBK is the best choice over disk and pads having seen your usage.