nerdstrike

Welcome to the haven for RX8 owners in mourning. You will find 50-80% improvement in fuel economy, 50% greater tyre endurance, an easily accessible oil filter, reliable starting and the droplinks will still be attached. Also the sparkplugs are where you expect them, behind the wheel arches. Enjoy your car!

You'll have a job to pack a bicycle in the boot. The height of the boot is the most limiting factor aside from an otherwise excellent load space for a small coupe. It'll just take a large suitcase to give you an idea of the depth. I suspect you'd have to take pedals off as well as front wheel. Not sure about length once the wheel is off, but probably ok unless it's a 29er. Like most RWD cars, it is first in line to wag the tail in icy conditions, but it sounds like you have a more sensible vehicle to fall back on. Apart from that, the default traction control (pre face-lift) is very stringent - you can be a right clown as long as you're not carrying too much speed.

"Strengthened bootlid"? You're having a laugh. I refuse to believe there's a different part. Maybe one has some holes pre-drilled or something? A large part of the original wing seems to be stuck down with foam tape, probably to prevent rubbing and provide a good air seal to stop it generating lift.

I take it this isn't the supermarket store room?

The flywheel will allow the engine to rev up and down faster, but it will also make it harder to crawl in traffic, as it will be easier to stall. At least you're not fitting a drag clutch. Those are laughably bad on the street. The ECU does not care how much mass your transmission has.

Going by howmanyareleft.co.uk it looks like the UK accounts for about a third of the GT86 europe count at 6000-ish, which is perhaps not unreasonable? Either way it's less than half what the RX8 achieved in its day, and '86 lacks a huge number of the foibles of a rotary. Even the gopping Focus RS matches it. Eyeballing it, the tin-top Z4 sold about 10k, but BMW still seems to have pushed the new one up another price bracket (thence profits?). You can make a lot when you don't have to rework the drivetrain at all across your whole range of saloons, SUVs and sports cars...

I'd be driving a late mk1 Z4 coupe now if I could have found a good one, but practicality won out. I rather like *some* of the imagery of the new Supra, but it's way beyond my means until they're 4-5 years old. Maybe I'll test drive one eventually! I have given the updated Z4 a go, and it rode hard but was numb at the front, had turbo lag, and the boot was half full of roof. Maybe they'll balance it right this time?

I think this is the right place for it, as we shall be mocking it for its portly kerb weight, impractical cargo, "dynamic service intervals",

A supercharger simplifies the situation as it doesn't mess with the exhaust manifold, but let's not forget that adding boost unfailingly increases the maintenance needs of the car. You'd want to invest in the most mature solution available to avoid issues like the HKS supercharger owners have encountered. You might also find the cats will wear out sooner if you're increasing the exhaust temperatures significantly, so best to say off high boost. Thinking about emissions testing, both a turbo and a supercharger will be on boost at testing RPMs, but hopefully the ECU will keep things clean under partial throttle and light load. I think you'd get away with sports cat + second OEM cat, but not the sports cat on its own. One OEM cat is already close to the edge.

I've noticed that the site doesn't do HTTPS. It's an annoyance to set up and needs maintained certificates, but on the other hand it removes a penalty from search engine rankings. It also seems the club shop operates almost entirely in the clear which I find slightly troubling. Maybe put it on the to-do list?

I think mine was clocking something similar. Ideally get a third measurement from a different piece of equipment to rule out both being incorrect. Techstream is expensive! Is there another temp sensor, or is this ambient temp used by the ECU for trim?

5 degrees over the top is ball park car sitting in the sun with static air around the sensor. There is also the question of what you're comparing it to! The reading is damped to prevent jitter, so In extreme cases it can take 10 minutes of being on the move before it'll stabilise at a believable temperature. You could try parking facing the other way as a crude form of testing.

Something had to give when they put a boxer under the bonnet. Sounds like the i6 of the A90 Supra might re-enable your desires...

I will pick a finely fettled NA engine over most turbos. The FA20 doesn't quite deliver the fizz from factory though . Thankfully the chassis, weight and driver feedback make it a hoot to drive anyway . There's room for improvement, and it does put out good oomph for its RPM. The S2000 and Celica 190 and RX8 all needed another 1500 rpm to make their numbers and have less low end on them.

The Crossclimates do look like they could handle a lot of water, and the tread blocks at the edges look moderately large. The Nokian and Contis have extra grooves in the tread blocks, so their sharpness and corner grip will suffer in comparison. On the other hand, if conditions go bad you need all the help you can get in a RWD car. Depends on your destinations I suppose. I visit rural Peaks, Lakes and west country fairly often where the roads are significantly less safe.

I was wrong. It was a Lib Dem pamphlet highlighting the scandal of reduced green waste collection over christmas.

I haven't received my first post in 2019, but I put good odds on it being a "Manager's Special Event" from Steven Eagell

I'm pretty sure your BRZ was on their forecourt for a good while. I haven't seen one on the forecourt recently. I reckon it's on Street View. It's famous!

I'm wondering if I've experienced the same thing. I've not heard it since I did the lubricate the parcel shelf trick. There's a bunch of welds in the underside of the parcel shelf where sheets of metal come close together - they can be pried open a bit and some spray lube forced in there. Mainly it stopped a sort of high pitched ticking noise, but I also remember a tocking noise as the changed load in corners... car clearly needs more structural bracing!

The twins come with lots of noises as standard. Is it most like a) a tick b ) a heavy clunk c) a knock ? Also it would help if you provided circumstances, i.e. if there are suspension mods and such, age of car etc.

The Southeast is quite the GT86/BRZ stronghold these days! Enjoy your car!

Demisting is best achieved with dry air, and the aircon acts to collect the humidity and dribble it out of the car. I've never seen a vent control system malfunction, so double check you're not doing something silly. Also close the dashboard vents to increase flow to the others to see if that helps clarify what is going on. The Internet suggests that with the ignition on but the car off, if you quiet the fan, you should be able to hear the vent actuator as you change from feet to body to screen. I would start to consider it as an electrical fault. The only "reset" I can think of is to remove the battery for a bit in case the climate control has gotten itself into a state, but I have no reason to believe that would help. Also, breathe through your nose if you're not already and consider cleaning the inside of the windscreen, that will reduce the fogging a bit until you can resolve the issue.

Pah - even rotaries pale into insignificance next to a mistreated 1.5L Mini. That oil habit was close to the cost in petrol.

...at least until it does and we've all got lazy about checking our oil. Damned reliable cars make me complacent.

Me neither. In 40k miles, I think I saw that the reading on the dipstick decline a little bit over a whole year, but not enough to do anything about it before the next service. Also, it's not a great dipstick to read with precision.