nerdstrike

What about wiring? My last car liked to let moisture into the HT leads, and then there's the trigger for the code. Tolerances must be tight on the voltage profile of the coil, so what about grounding? The car is a bit young for rusted earth points though.

If you're not replacing the callipers or going 2-piece, there's not much to be gained by going for fancy grooved/dimpled/drilled discs and such. One cast iron disc is much the same as another as long as they're well made and at least match the design of the OEMs. Just a matter of price, and maybe rust-proofing on the part that doesn't get swept by pads. I have seen cheaper drilled parts cracking, and I've also heard of people chewing pads away for not much gain on grooved discs. Basically I'm saying focus on pad choice, everything else is cosmetic or only comes into its own under really heavy use. Maybe brake lines, but the OEM ones won't have gotten too spongey in only a few years. Also, EBC yellowstuff can kiss my spoiler.

Good job! I'm a bit disappointed you didn't stick both on the same car.

Yo dawg, I heard you like wings on your wing? Aggressive!

For reference, the survey demands a pick even if you haven't ever bought anything from the club shop.

Those kinds of noises make me cry :'(

I lost a screen last year to debris from construction traffic. I put the hard stares on local councils for surface dressing roads, which results in very large numbers of stone impacts, and the company that replaced it were booked up for weeks in advance. It sucks.

Two in the boot doesn't quite work, at least not as far as I could see. If you drop the seats you can do it with some heave-ho.

Great, a name plate that didn't need to be there, that then causes trouble because it's there. Whatever was wrong with some etching on the tail pipes?

The car definitely loses some fizz on 95 RON, I try to avoid it, but it can be hard to find anything else out in rural areas. As for 97/98/99, just pick one and go with it, they're probably splitting hairs between them.

Servicing is all electronic records now. Toyota franchise may not be able to log a service with Subaru, not sure how it all works behind the scenes. Intermediate service is about £200, full service is more. Yes. £200 for an oil change and quick poke around around under the bonnet and body.

Brakes squeak for lots of reasons. Pad compound (usually the high temp pads), insufficient paste applied to the sliders and pads, too much paste applied to the pads, and most likely in this case, a small stone lodged into the pad. Look closely for any scoring of the disc surface, or just pop the pads out and take a look.

It's a rapid buzz, suggests something without much flap available. Number plate? I found it instructive to drive with the rear seats down, and now know that my seat belts click, my number plate wobbles, and the rear centre brake light vibrates a bit too.

I've got some Dunlop Wintersports on mine, great when it's cold cold cold, but very floaty above about 12 degrees. Surprising amount of grip in all conditions, but easier to slide than summer tyres. I'm hanging on with summer tyres for now, it's still pretty warm (11 degrees in the morning) in the Southeast.

I feel sorry for you 18-20 year olds, but then I recall that I drove my mum's Fiat Cinquecento at your age, and found the 30 bhp rather limiting!

I had a Scorpion exhaust on my Mazda, very nicely made, a bit louder and fruitier than stock. I can't speak for the sound on an '86, but there's a few recordings on youtube. http://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/product-details.html?autoid=1282

I did some sums elsewhere on the internet. If you live in a hard water area and doggedly change your whole coolant every year for three years with tap water and additive, you'd end up with significant scaling in the radiator as well as increased galvanic corrosion. After a bunch more years you'd probably start seeing radiator leaks, loss of cooling and so on. That's why you're recommended to stick to distilled or deionised water. That said, a few tens of millilitres of tap water won't lead to catastrophe. I suppose you might introduce algae or similar which could lead to sludge in the system if it was able to survive. My last car lost coolant slowly due to a faulty pressure cap, but I'm not sure we all have faulty caps.

I can't believe everyone is so bent out of shape over NMS. It's certainly not the first game to promise much and deliver little, it's certainly not the buggiest launch ever (looking at you Ultima IX, Black & White), it's not even a wildly hyped Molyneux product! Elites 1 through Dangerous have all been procedural-based, so was Lander back in the day. Procedurally generated games are always thin unless there's a really great game built on top - I really like what they've done with Elite Dangerous to combine the randomly generated with sculpted content. Hell, Star Citizen is still taking money from people despite not yet delivering a coherent game (just a pretty series of sandboxes to date). You could have a really good shot at curing Huntingtons disease for the money people have thrown at Chris Roberts to make a video game. That's something to get angry about.

IANAL - contracts are generally binding unless they have illegal terms, or go to unusual lengths to obscure their implications. The burden was on them (and you of course) to ensure the correctness of the contract prior to offering it to you. The contract itself is critical here. Does <Stockport franchise> reserve the right to make reasonable alterations prior to completion, or to annul it without cause before first payment. You're welcome to hold your ground but they're likely to withdraw the contract themselves if they can't bear the loss and have a way out. If you consider them in breach of their contract with you, the best outcome you're likely to get is freedom from the contract without penalty, as no damage has been incurred and you are the weaker party. That's my view at least. Contract law is messy, but consumer protection is a big deal too.

What knightryder said. 215 vs a 7" rim is more or less a straight up tyre wall. My last car had 8" rims with 225 tyres by default. That was a very mild stretch to look at, and some people fitted 235 and 245 tyres too. To be honest, it's not at all guaranteed that a wider profile will improve grip (at least while cornering).

You can do it with a Dremel too, but it takes all damn day. I can't work out whether they make them from cheese because it's cheaper or because they drive cutting tool sales.

Strictly speaking the resonator's job is to dampen specific wavelengths of exhaust sound. In other words it is intended to reduce particular frequencies (while also dropping the total amplitude a bit). It's possible for an unresonated exhaust to not drone if the lengths and exhaust temperature are right, but resonators are often there to prevent drone. Exhausts do coke up after a month or two of use, which changes the sound, but doesn't necessarily quieten them. A better muffler would reduce total volume (but perhaps not eliminate the drone), while a well chosen resonated pipe would hopefully remove the specific noise that irritates, while leaving some vulgar noise for fun. That would be my choice in this case anyway.

Dash command is also available on Android, but I think Torque Pro works out cheaper for full features.

Just got my recall notice. 1 week after its year 3 service... D'oh!

Rear discs include a drum for the hand brake don't they? Hence a bit more complicated/expensive. I can't say much about the streetmasters, but it usually makes sense to match compound unless you have a good reason not to (e.g. massive BBK on the front). The rears do get treated more gently even on track so temperature tolerance is less of a concern, but you probably want the friction to match so that the brake bias stays in one place.